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On December 28 2013 02:03 Ropid wrote:Show nested quote +On December 28 2013 01:52 evilfatsh1t wrote:
hmm. tried it just now but it doesnt feel right. like when i swipe horizontally it doesnt go as far as i expect it to? not sure What resolution do your two screens have? Someone can maybe suggest settings based on calculations using that. Also, describe exactly what the mouse can do for DPI. It can do 600, 1200, 1800 DPI?
i think my laptop was 1280x720, and my monitors first number is in the 1900s. i cant check right now but it was 16 9 so you will probs know what im talking about. the mouse goes from 600 to 2400 in 600 intervals and the 4/11 trick doesnt seem to help much. seems the same speed when making circles or something but definitely feels shorter when swiping horizontally
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United Kingdom20344 Posts
^1920x1080 probably (oops took 5 min to write and was in other tabs)
Got your mouse mixed up (wow dunno why i thought abyssus)
To cross 1280 pixels in 1 inch you need 1280dpi
to cross 1920 pixels in 1 inch you need 1920dpi (see how this works? :D )
So you need 1.5x the DPI (1920/1280 = 1.5) to cross the screen in the same amount of distance on the X axis, and the Y axis too if the screens are the same aspect ratio
As you increase resolution on the X or Y axis, you'll need a linear amount higher DPI to cross it in the same amount of mouse distance (2x width and height = 2x dpi needed) but the amount of pixels increases way faster (2x width and height = 4x as many pixels on screen)
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ok so im gonna have this problem with every mouse assuming they have the same dpi as my current one?
playing on big monitors suck
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On December 28 2013 10:14 evilfatsh1t wrote:
ok so im gonna have this problem with every mouse assuming they have the same dpi as my current one?
playing on big monitors suck
Yup, math sucks!
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On December 28 2013 10:14 evilfatsh1t wrote:
ok so im gonna have this problem with every mouse assuming they have the same dpi as my current one?
playing on big monitors suck
You said 1200 dpi feels good to you on the laptop.
Try switching to 1800 dpi on the desktop, push the monitor as far back on the table as you have room for that.
1920/1080 = 16/9 on the desktop
1280/720 = 16/9 on the laptop
The laptop has two-thirds of the resolution of the desktop monitor (both in horizontal and vertical resolution). So using those two-thirds, you get 1200 dpi * 3 / 2 = 1800 dpi.
I tried calculating something with the Windows pointer speed slider to not have to fiddle with the mouse DPI each time you plug it into the other computer. You could try the following:
(1) Set the mouse to 2400 dpi.
(2) On the desktop, Windows pointer speed slider at 5/11 means 0.75 factor, so what happens is: 2400 * 0.75 = 1800 dpi.
(3) On the laptop, Windows pointer speed slider at 4/11 means 0.5 factor, so: 2400 * 0.5 = 1200 dpi.
Those 5/11 on the desktop might feel weird, slightly jittery.
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United Kingdom20344 Posts
^If you can, the best option is native 1200dpi on laptop; native 1800dpi on desktop (or for example 800 laptop, 1200 desktop - just 1.5x higher), it depends how sensitive you are to a few things as to if windows sens will bother you etc
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ok i just checked and my laptop was 1024/768
because i know for sure my laptop wasnt 16/9
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Hi guys, just bought another monitor to make my dual setup dream come true.
So far i have a :
Samsung S22B350
BenQ GL2440HM (primary)
running on a ASUS Direct CUII 7870.
The issue is, when i'm streaming the game itself feels choppy to me, don't know why.
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United Kingdom20344 Posts
On December 28 2013 22:55 evilfatsh1t wrote:
ok i just checked and my laptop was 1024/768
because i know for sure my laptop wasnt 16/9
1920/1024 = 1.875, so 1000 dpi on laptop vs 1875 on desktop, etc (or any multiplication of that) though you can go up/down a little because it'll feel different anyway
On December 29 2013 08:46 HyDrA_solic wrote:
Hi guys, just bought another monitor to make my dual setup dream come true.
So far i have a :
Samsung S22B350
BenQ GL2440HM (primary)
running on a ASUS Direct CUII 7870.
The issue is, when i'm streaming the game itself feels choppy to me, don't know why.
Issue relating to second screen, you mean?
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Hey guys with regards to doing a backup in Windows 7, can I exclude certain folders under "Programs"? I want to create a system image backup of C drive, but my steam folder is huge and I don't really want to include hundreds of Gigs of games for backing up. I'd much rather just have my settings, other programs that i need there
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On December 29 2013 12:11 Cyro wrote:Show nested quote +On December 28 2013 22:55 evilfatsh1t wrote:
ok i just checked and my laptop was 1024/768
because i know for sure my laptop wasnt 16/9 1920/1024 = 1.875, so 1000 dpi on laptop vs 1875 on desktop, etc (or any multiplication of that) though you can go up/down a little because it'll feel different anyway Show nested quote +On December 29 2013 08:46 HyDrA_solic wrote:
Hi guys, just bought another monitor to make my dual setup dream come true.
So far i have a :
Samsung S22B350
BenQ GL2440HM (primary)
running on a ASUS Direct CUII 7870.
The issue is, when i'm streaming the game itself feels choppy to me, don't know why. Issue relating to second screen, you mean?
No, the game feels laggy, with no stalls/min registered, and no fps drops (fps waving between 120~150). It just feels slower. My stream however is fine. I've noticed that if I close tabs opened on chrome (on second screen) the game gets better. Wouldn't I be able to run SC2 on primary, and chrome on secondary screen, while streaming on perfect conditions?
Both screen resolutions are @ 1080p
I stream @ 720p30FPS on a 4670k.
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Its been awhile since ive visited tech support but now i need some re-assurance.
My friend whom i built a pc for 2 years ago recently got a nice chunk of spare change and just wants to splurge on a graphic card.
Has an i5-2500
Thermaltake 600w psu <----this is kind of my concern
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153140
He wants to get that spiffy radeon 290 gpu, everything looks in check?
Or should we consider a psu upgrade as well.
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600W is more than way super overkill for that.
If you're very sure it's TR-600P (if it says 80 plus bronze, that's the model), it should be fine.
If it's one of the other 35478627455 TR2 power supplies Thermaltake has had over the years, it's crapware and should probably be replaced regardless.
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Im pretty sure its the P line, there was a sale at frys electronics with a rebate for one a year or two ago so it was the best option at the time
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On December 29 2013 15:53 fuzzy_panda wrote:
Hey guys with regards to doing a backup in Windows 7, can I exclude certain folders under "Programs"? I want to create a system image backup of C drive, but my steam folder is huge and I don't really want to include hundreds of Gigs of games for backing up. I'd much rather just have my settings, other programs that i need there
I thought about it a little... I think the best you can do is shrink C: and create a D: partition on that drive you have, put Steam on D:. The system image part of the Windows 7 backup, which you can't customize at all, should only pull C: into its system image, and the backup of the rest of the partitions on the drive are customizable.
There's a feature called "junction point" through which you can have a fake folder that's really somewhere else. You can create a junction at the command line using the command "mklink /j". What you'd do is copy your whole current Steam folder to D:\Steam, then delete the original on C:. You open a command prompt as Admin, navigate to the program files folder where you've deleted the original Steam folder, run "mklink /j Steam D:\Steam". You won't have to reinstall anything (theoretically).
To move and change the size of partitions, what Windows Disk Management can do is often not enough. You might want to get a third party program like MiniTool Partition Wizard (its free version is good enough).
+ Show Spoiler +Third party backup programs are $50 or something. A bunch of those might be able to do what you want. I currently have TrueImage installed, and it seems to be able to exclude files and folders even when doing backups of whole partitions and whole drives. I did not test that feature. Some backups programs have a free version with reduced features. You might want to look around and see if one of those can do it.
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On December 30 2013 01:17 HyDrA_solic wrote:Show nested quote +On December 29 2013 12:11 Cyro wrote:On December 28 2013 22:55 evilfatsh1t wrote:
ok i just checked and my laptop was 1024/768
because i know for sure my laptop wasnt 16/9 1920/1024 = 1.875, so 1000 dpi on laptop vs 1875 on desktop, etc (or any multiplication of that) though you can go up/down a little because it'll feel different anyway On December 29 2013 08:46 HyDrA_solic wrote:
Hi guys, just bought another monitor to make my dual setup dream come true.
So far i have a :
Samsung S22B350
BenQ GL2440HM (primary)
running on a ASUS Direct CUII 7870.
The issue is, when i'm streaming the game itself feels choppy to me, don't know why. Issue relating to second screen, you mean? No, the game feels laggy, with no stalls/min registered, and no fps drops (fps waving between 120~150). It just feels slower. My stream however is fine. I've noticed that if I close tabs opened on chrome (on second screen) the game gets better. Wouldn't I be able to run SC2 on primary, and chrome on secondary screen, while streaming on perfect conditions? Both screen resolutions are @ 1080p I stream @ 720p30FPS on a 4670k.
I've seen a thread with similar problem once, and I think this was it: http://www.overclock.net/t/1422355/once-again-7970-stutter-issues
I think the guy fixed his problems in the end... and the solution was pretty much reinstalling Windows, but he experimented a lot with things, using integrated graphics instead of graphics card for a screen, etc. You might want to look at all the suggestions people had and try them out.
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Sort of a preemptive question cause I'd rather be safe than sorry. Maybe three days ago my surge protector lost power for a second and when it came back on I believe it sent more electricity through than it was supposed to. I'm replacing the surge protector and everything seemed fine but just now I hit the power button on my computer and I heard the fans start up, stop, start up, stop, then finally it turned on. I can verify that my computer actually tried to turn on then quit because on my monitors the Gigabyte logo started to show but then disappeared. On the third attempt it managed to turn itself on with no problems and everything's running fine. Is there anything I can do to verify if there is or was any damage done?
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United Kingdom20344 Posts
That sometimes happens if there's no power to system (like if you had psu unplugged or turned off) and it's probably fine
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EPT
