EPTIntroduction
This guide is for people who are thinking about starting guitar, but aren’t sure what to buy or what they are really getting into.
It is assumed that you know at least a little bit about guitars (what they look like, etc.). I will explain most of the terms, but if you are completely new, take a second to browse wikipedia for background information.
There are three things you need to figure out, before you do anything
1) What kind of music do you like?
2) How serious are you about practicing?
3) What is your budget?
While you are thinking about those things, I’ll explain some of the basics:
It is assumed that you know at least a little bit about guitars (what they look like, etc.). I will explain most of the terms, but if you are completely new, take a second to browse wikipedia for background information.
There are three things you need to figure out, before you do anything
1) What kind of music do you like?
2) How serious are you about practicing?
3) What is your budget?
While you are thinking about those things, I’ll explain some of the basics:
Required Gear
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A guitar alone isn't enough, you'll probably want everything on this list:
1) A case – Essential unless you never move
2) Extra strings – These are cheaper in bulk (I’m talking like 60-80% cheaper), so buy them in bulk. Replacing them at least a couple times a year will make your guitar sound way better
3) A capo – This is a cheap and worthwhile investment that lasts a lifetime
4) Picks – Get a ton since they are dirt cheap and can make a difference
5) Books/DVDs – For chord/scale reference. Don’t rely on websites, if it’s not convenient you won’t practice. You can also download them, if you are broke or lack morals
6) Humidifier – Get this if you buy an expensive solid wood acoustic
7) Lessons – Consider this unless you are Jimi Hendrix II
8) Inspiration (CDs/etc.) – I recommend getting/downloading some live concerts of RHCP, John Mayer, Pink Floyd, etc. These are great for inspiration when you don’t want to practice. If you watch anime, start watching K-On!
9) Tuner – Convenient thing to have unless you have perfect pitch
10) Guitar Stand – This will keep your guitar in good condition, and it allows you to just sit down and pick up your guitar. I guarantee you will practice more often if you buy one of these
And this is only for acoustic (electric guitar gear is covered in the electric guitar section).
If you are super anal about money, the absolute bare minimum list is the following
- A guitar (200+ dollars)
- A case (30+ dollars)
- A capo (10-20 bucks for something lifetime investment that saves you hundreds of thousands of hours of learning songs is worthwhile IMO)
- One replacement set of strings for when you need to change your strings. Not “if,” but “when”
You can make picks out of old credit cards, CDs, or DVDs if you need one.
1) A case – Essential unless you never move
2) Extra strings – These are cheaper in bulk (I’m talking like 60-80% cheaper), so buy them in bulk. Replacing them at least a couple times a year will make your guitar sound way better
3) A capo – This is a cheap and worthwhile investment that lasts a lifetime
4) Picks – Get a ton since they are dirt cheap and can make a difference
5) Books/DVDs – For chord/scale reference. Don’t rely on websites, if it’s not convenient you won’t practice. You can also download them, if you are broke or lack morals
6) Humidifier – Get this if you buy an expensive solid wood acoustic
7) Lessons – Consider this unless you are Jimi Hendrix II
8) Inspiration (CDs/etc.) – I recommend getting/downloading some live concerts of RHCP, John Mayer, Pink Floyd, etc. These are great for inspiration when you don’t want to practice. If you watch anime, start watching K-On!
9) Tuner – Convenient thing to have unless you have perfect pitch
10) Guitar Stand – This will keep your guitar in good condition, and it allows you to just sit down and pick up your guitar. I guarantee you will practice more often if you buy one of these
And this is only for acoustic (electric guitar gear is covered in the electric guitar section).
If you are super anal about money, the absolute bare minimum list is the following
- A guitar (200+ dollars)
- A case (30+ dollars)
- A capo (10-20 bucks for something lifetime investment that saves you hundreds of thousands of hours of learning songs is worthwhile IMO)
- One replacement set of strings for when you need to change your strings. Not “if,” but “when”
You can make picks out of old credit cards, CDs, or DVDs if you need one.
Acoustic Vs. Electric
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Acoustic
Pros
- Can fit almost any price range
- Portable
- Clear and clean sound
- Simple setup, comfortable to play
- "Easier" to play (if you just want to strum chords)
- Sounds great for unaccompanied solo performances
- Perfect for finger picking songs
- Your parents will approve
- Girls dig it
Cons
- Cannot play certain kinds of music
- Steel strings will be hard on your fingers for the first few months
- Needs additional equipment if you want to perform
- Can be damaged by water/humidy/collisions/etc.
Electric
Pros
- Can play basically all kinds of music
- Great for bands
- Can easily run performances
- Allows you to perform a wide range of guitar techniques that aren't possible on acoustic
- Allows you to use sound effects
- Wide range of sounds, from clean to distorted to alien-like
- Can reach almost any volume
- Easier on your fingers than acoustic (even if you are doing things like tapping)
- Somewhat more durable than acoustic guitars
- White girls dig it
Cons
- Expensive
- Not very portable
- Complicated for beginners
- Takes a long time to master, or even to sound decent
- Doesn't really sound good by itself (you need backing music) unless you are a BAMF
Classical guitar is something else entirely, but it's somewhat similar to acoustic guitar (in terms of Pros/Cons)
Acoustic and Electric both take an equally long time to master…
HOWEVER, you can sound good on Acoustics much faster than you will sound good on Electrics. With acoustics, after 1-2 months of solid practice, you will sound decent. Once you learn open chords, you can basically strum any song ever written if you have a capo. Electrics take years of practice before you will really sound good. Strumming doesn’t fit well with the sound of electric guitars unless you incorporate some difficult right hand technique. Take this into consideration when evaluating your own practice schedule.
Read the detailed descriptions below, and make your own decision (about Acoustic vs. Electric guitars).
Pros
- Can fit almost any price range
- Portable
- Clear and clean sound
- Simple setup, comfortable to play
- "Easier" to play (if you just want to strum chords)
- Sounds great for unaccompanied solo performances
- Perfect for finger picking songs
- Your parents will approve
- Girls dig it
Cons
- Cannot play certain kinds of music
- Steel strings will be hard on your fingers for the first few months
- Needs additional equipment if you want to perform
- Can be damaged by water/humidy/collisions/etc.
Electric
Pros
- Can play basically all kinds of music
- Great for bands
- Can easily run performances
- Allows you to perform a wide range of guitar techniques that aren't possible on acoustic
- Allows you to use sound effects
- Wide range of sounds, from clean to distorted to alien-like
- Can reach almost any volume
- Easier on your fingers than acoustic (even if you are doing things like tapping)
- Somewhat more durable than acoustic guitars
- White girls dig it
Cons
- Expensive
- Not very portable
- Complicated for beginners
- Takes a long time to master, or even to sound decent
- Doesn't really sound good by itself (you need backing music) unless you are a BAMF
Classical guitar is something else entirely, but it's somewhat similar to acoustic guitar (in terms of Pros/Cons)
Acoustic and Electric both take an equally long time to master…
HOWEVER, you can sound good on Acoustics much faster than you will sound good on Electrics. With acoustics, after 1-2 months of solid practice, you will sound decent. Once you learn open chords, you can basically strum any song ever written if you have a capo. Electrics take years of practice before you will really sound good. Strumming doesn’t fit well with the sound of electric guitars unless you incorporate some difficult right hand technique. Take this into consideration when evaluating your own practice schedule.
Read the detailed descriptions below, and make your own decision (about Acoustic vs. Electric guitars).
Acoustic Guitars
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An acoustic guitar is made of wood and produces sound naturally without electronics. The sound comes from the wooden soundboard inside the actual guitar itself, and they don't have any kind of circuits unless you get one with embedded pickups (even these still produce sound without the electronics activated). The body of the guitar amplifies the sound to a decent volume, but it is still too quiet for large audiences without electronics.
The advantage of acoustic guitars is that they produce an extremely clean sound. The sound from a crappy acoustic is still cleaner than the cleanest clean setting of any top-grade electric guitar/amp. If you like classical, folk, country, old-school blues, etc., then get an acoustic guitar. For advanced players, harmonics tend to sound better on acoustics as well.
I don’t play classical guitars, but for an EVEN cleaner sound, get a classical guitar. These are meant to be played with fingers only, so grow out your nails or get special finger picks. I'm only going to focus on acoustic steel 6-string guitars, to be specific. Other guitars like 12 strings (even 7 or 11 string guitars) do exist but you most likely don't want to start with those.
The quality of sound from an acoustic guitar is determined by several factors:
1) The type of wood - Most guitars are made from spruce. Sitka spruce is considered the best, because of its deep and full sound. Cheap guitars use lower grade spruce (if the tag doesn’t say Sitka, it’s probably lower grade spruce). Some guitars are made from mahogany (these have a warmer sound, which is good for rhythm playing). Other exotic woods are rarely used; they are usually brighter sounding. Most guitars use more than one kind of wood (i.e. spruce front, but mahogany sides and fret board/neck). The wood on the front of the guitar produces most of the sound; so don’t worry too much about the sides or the fret board/neck. Mahogany is usually preferred for the fret board, since it is very hard and doesn’t wear easily.
2) The construction – laminated woods are more durable and are generally louder. Solid wood guitars (no laminate) have a deeper, rounder sound because the wood can vibrate more freely.
3) The shape and size – Large guitars typically sound better and louder, but are often harder to play and less comfortable. Look for “000” or “Auditorium” guitars if you want a small comfortable guitar. Look for dreadnaught guitars if you want a larger guitar. Some guitars have a “cutaway” which allows you to reach higher frets (it looks like a piece of the guitar is “cut out”). No matter what any salesman tells you, this DOES affect the sound. Don’t get a cutaway if you are just starting out, you won’t be touching those high frets for years.
What to look for in an acoustic guitar (when you are ready to buy):
1) Sound – Warmer, bass heavy sounds are good for strumming and rhythm playing. Brighter, treble heavy sounds are good for finger picking or solo/lead melodies.
2) Intonation – Play an open string, and then play the same string 12 frets up. Make sure they sound the same. Poor intonation will make your guitar sound out of tune, even if you are playing correctly.
3) Action – Action refers to how high above the fret board the strings are. A high action means you have to press down harder to make a note ring out. Beginners should look for the lowest possible action that doesn’t have buzz. See below.
4) Buzzing – play a note on every fret before buying a guitar. Make sure the strings are not “buzzing,” or hitting frets that they shouldn’t be hitting (due to poor construction). Cheaper guitars vary in quality, so try multiple guitars.
5) Size and feel – get a guitar that feels comfortable. There are many different neck and body shapes. I recommend a thin C-shape neck and a 000/Auditorium size guitar for new players
6) Wood quality – Quality wood such as Sitka spruce or ultra high-grade mahogany are preferred because they age well. As you play your guitar, the glue inside the guitar and the wood itself will loosen, and improve the sound. If you buy a cheap guitar with bad wood, this can actual make your guitar sound worse.
Recommend Guitars
Under 200 dollars:
-Yamaha acoustics (no acoustic-electrics)
200-500 dollars:
-Takamine G-series (best value IMO)
-Yamaha acoustics (no acoustic-electrics)
-Martin 00X (very good small guitar)
500-1000 dollars:
-Breedlove Guitars (almost all are good)
-Yamaha acoustic-electrics
-Epiphone Masterbilt (Hummingbirds are cheaper and also decent)
1000-2000+ dollars (if you are new, bring a knowledgeable friend when shopping in this range, every guitar will vary):
-Martins (warmer sound than Taylors)
-Taylors (brighter sound than Martins)
-Gibsons (loud and bright, but expensive)
The advantage of acoustic guitars is that they produce an extremely clean sound. The sound from a crappy acoustic is still cleaner than the cleanest clean setting of any top-grade electric guitar/amp. If you like classical, folk, country, old-school blues, etc., then get an acoustic guitar. For advanced players, harmonics tend to sound better on acoustics as well.
I don’t play classical guitars, but for an EVEN cleaner sound, get a classical guitar. These are meant to be played with fingers only, so grow out your nails or get special finger picks. I'm only going to focus on acoustic steel 6-string guitars, to be specific. Other guitars like 12 strings (even 7 or 11 string guitars) do exist but you most likely don't want to start with those.
The quality of sound from an acoustic guitar is determined by several factors:
1) The type of wood - Most guitars are made from spruce. Sitka spruce is considered the best, because of its deep and full sound. Cheap guitars use lower grade spruce (if the tag doesn’t say Sitka, it’s probably lower grade spruce). Some guitars are made from mahogany (these have a warmer sound, which is good for rhythm playing). Other exotic woods are rarely used; they are usually brighter sounding. Most guitars use more than one kind of wood (i.e. spruce front, but mahogany sides and fret board/neck). The wood on the front of the guitar produces most of the sound; so don’t worry too much about the sides or the fret board/neck. Mahogany is usually preferred for the fret board, since it is very hard and doesn’t wear easily.
2) The construction – laminated woods are more durable and are generally louder. Solid wood guitars (no laminate) have a deeper, rounder sound because the wood can vibrate more freely.
3) The shape and size – Large guitars typically sound better and louder, but are often harder to play and less comfortable. Look for “000” or “Auditorium” guitars if you want a small comfortable guitar. Look for dreadnaught guitars if you want a larger guitar. Some guitars have a “cutaway” which allows you to reach higher frets (it looks like a piece of the guitar is “cut out”). No matter what any salesman tells you, this DOES affect the sound. Don’t get a cutaway if you are just starting out, you won’t be touching those high frets for years.
What to look for in an acoustic guitar (when you are ready to buy):
1) Sound – Warmer, bass heavy sounds are good for strumming and rhythm playing. Brighter, treble heavy sounds are good for finger picking or solo/lead melodies.
2) Intonation – Play an open string, and then play the same string 12 frets up. Make sure they sound the same. Poor intonation will make your guitar sound out of tune, even if you are playing correctly.
3) Action – Action refers to how high above the fret board the strings are. A high action means you have to press down harder to make a note ring out. Beginners should look for the lowest possible action that doesn’t have buzz. See below.
4) Buzzing – play a note on every fret before buying a guitar. Make sure the strings are not “buzzing,” or hitting frets that they shouldn’t be hitting (due to poor construction). Cheaper guitars vary in quality, so try multiple guitars.
5) Size and feel – get a guitar that feels comfortable. There are many different neck and body shapes. I recommend a thin C-shape neck and a 000/Auditorium size guitar for new players
6) Wood quality – Quality wood such as Sitka spruce or ultra high-grade mahogany are preferred because they age well. As you play your guitar, the glue inside the guitar and the wood itself will loosen, and improve the sound. If you buy a cheap guitar with bad wood, this can actual make your guitar sound worse.
Recommend Guitars
Under 200 dollars:
-Yamaha acoustics (no acoustic-electrics)
200-500 dollars:
-Takamine G-series (best value IMO)
-Yamaha acoustics (no acoustic-electrics)
-Martin 00X (very good small guitar)
500-1000 dollars:
-Breedlove Guitars (almost all are good)
-Yamaha acoustic-electrics
-Epiphone Masterbilt (Hummingbirds are cheaper and also decent)
1000-2000+ dollars (if you are new, bring a knowledgeable friend when shopping in this range, every guitar will vary):
-Martins (warmer sound than Taylors)
-Taylors (brighter sound than Martins)
-Gibsons (loud and bright, but expensive)
Electric Guitars
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Electric guitars produce sound by inducing a current with magnetic pickups, and then sending the signal to an amplifier which turns the signal into an audible sound. The sound of an electric guitar is produced by the pickups of the guitar, the wood of the guitar (slightly), the preamp stages of your setup (pedals, preamps, effects, etc.), and the amplifier.
Distortion is caused by overloading your amplifier with high volume or gain. The amplifier will increase the guitar sounds by a certain amount, referred to as gain. If you set your gain to a high value, your sound will begin to distort as you start to reach the wattage limit of your amplifier. A clean channel has low gain. A dirty channel has high gain. There are many kinds of amps. For now, just get a combo amp (has the amp and a speaker together).
At minimum, to play electric guitar you must have an electric guitar, an instrument wire, and a combo amplifier. For those on a budget, remember that guitar and amplifier are equally important in terms of sound (amplifier is actually a little more important), but also consider that a guitar is a better long-term investment, since its better to get used to a guitar that you will play for years.
When buying an electric guitar, look for the following:
1) Pickups – Pickups determine 49% of the sound of the your guitar (another 49% comes from the amplifier, the rest comes from other things). Some pickups are really twangy and sound really bright (i.e. stock Fender Telecasters) and are great for blues or country. Some pickups are really rough and heavy sounding (i.e. stock Gibson Les Pauls) and are great for rock/metal. Some pickups are extremely sensitive (i.e. stock Ibanez guitars) and are great for heavy distortion. Some pickups are a mix of all of the above (i.e. stock Stratocasters). Also consider the difference between single coil, soapbox, and humbuckling pickups. Single coils are brighter and more responsive, but make unwanted noises sometimes. Soapbox pickups often sound jazzy and sparkly but sometimes don’t work that well with distortion. Humbuckling pickups reduce noise and are perfect for distortion and/or heavy playing (rock/metal/etc.). I won’t cover custom pickups because this a beginner guide
2) Body type – Look for solid body or hollow-body, basically. Hollow body gives a jazzier sound, great for… you guessed it, jazz. Solid body is for everything else. Also consider the weight of your guitar. Heavy guitars such as the Les Pauls, can really strain your back after a few hours of playing. The width of the fret board also makes a huge difference, depending on the size of your hand. You’ll want a small and compact fret board for fast playing (as small as possible considering the size of your hands), but a wider fret board for wide bends and vibrato (blues/rock/etc.). Check the tuners too. You might want locking tuners (keeps strings in tune longer) if you do a lot of bends, or if you plan to use a whammy bar.
3) Also look for everything in the “What to look for in an acoustic guitar” list, inside the Acoustic Guitar section. It all applies to electric guitars too.
When buying an amplifier, look for the following:
1) A good clean channel – make sure your guitar sounds clear and has very distinct notes when the amp is on a clean setting with minimal gain. Your clean channel is more important than your dirty channel.
2) Appropriate wattage – 10-30 watts is more than enough for practice. Even if you play with a band, 10-15 watts will keep up with all but the loudest drummers (and I mean loud). 20-30 watts is capable of producing volumes that will cause permanent hearing loss when used indoors, so keep that in mind. 20-30 Watts is fine for any indoor performance unless you are a professional musician playing in a stadium. For large outdoor gigs and performances, consider 100 watt amps (cab heads) with at least 1-2 output jacks (to connect to speakers).
3) Tubes vs. transistors – “Tube” amps are old school amplifiers that use vacuum tubes to amplify your sound signals, rather than transistors. I personally prefer transistors, because they are easier to care for, but if you really care about sound, you might want a tube amp. Tube amps create more “even” and gradual distortion than transistors can. Most people prefer tube amp distortion to transistor-based distortion. However, tube amps are fragile and the tubes must be replaced every half year or so. Also, tube amps need a few minutes to “warm up” before you can use them, so they typically have a standby switch that keeps the tubes warm even when the amplifier is not on. Don’t leave tube amps on for long periods of time though, because it’ll burn out the tubes.
4) Effects – effects always sound better if they come from the amp itself, rather than pedals. Keep this in mind if you plan to play rock, metal, or other effect-heavy music. At very least, if you want effects, make sure you AT LEAST have a good dirty channel that allows high gain (and thus distortion).
Recommended electric guitars (slightly biased list)
1) Squier Strat (50-150 dollars) – If you are broke, this is the only guitar you can consider. No other electric guitar sounds remotely decent in this price range (under 100 dollars); that’s not an opinion, it’s a fact. Squire’s are sometimes terrible, but sometimes very decent, so try a few out.
2) Fender MIM Stratocaster (250-400+ bucks) – IMO, there is no better guitar under 1000 dollars. Sounds very close to the MIA version, but is made in Mexico instead of America, and has cheaper and more “electronic” sounding pickups. Get a Fender MIM Telecaster (same price) for twangier, brighter sound.
3) Epiphone/Gibson Les Pauls (300-1000+ bucks) – These have a rough and edgy sound. Epiphones look and feel the same and are cheaper, but have lower quality pickups.
4) Fender MIA Stratocaster (1000+ bucks) – I might be biased since I have this guitar, but I think it kicks ass. This is the world famous icon, the real deal Fender. Probably the most versatile guitar you can buy. It plays almost any kind of music. Well.
5) Gibson SG (1000+ bucks) – This is basically a Stratocaster with a heavier sound (think AC/DC).
6) Paul Reed Smith (1500+ bucks)– These kick ASS if you have 1500+ dollars to blow on a guitar. Nice deep, slightly jazzy sound. If I had the money I'd buy one.
7) Ibanez/Schecter/Jackson/ESP/etc. (varies) - I'm not a huge fan of these guitars but that's only due to the kind of music I play. These guitars tend to be better suited for heavier music (hard rock, metal, etc.) that the other guitars above. Supposedly Ibanez is one of the best in the ultra-dirt-cheap-price-range.
Recommended amplifiers (Combo amps only, don’t worry about cabs/stacks until you start performing gigs)
1) If you are broke and just starting out, get a Fender Frontman 15W, Peavey Audition, or a Roland MicroCube. Both are probably the only decent amps in the 50-100 dollar range. I think the Frontman 15W is the loudest, but it sounds worse than the others. The MicroCube has some built in effects, but isn’t very loud.
2) Roland Cube series, MicroCube, 15X, 20X, 30X (100-300 dollars)– These are the best modeling amps IMO. They are designed to simulate many different kinds of amps. I personally have a 30X and it’s awesome. They have a ton of effects and have a GREAT clean channel (most of the cubes have the same clean channel chipset as the legendary Roland JS-series)
3) Fender Super Champ XD (200+ dollars) – Stevie Ray Vaughn used Fender amps; therefore, you should too. On a serious note, the Super Champ is a cheap tube amp with effects. What’s not to love.
4) Line6 Amps (100-1000+) – I hate these amps. They sound terrible. However, they have a TON of effects (especially the spider series) so consider these if you just want variety. The Flextone series, however, is an exception. The Flextone series amps are AMAZING (but also expensive).
Pedals/Effects
I recommend you don’t get them if you are new. But if you MUST buy something, get these:
1) DigiTech 50 (30-50 bucks) – A cheap pedal that has tons of effects, as well as a drum machine with many drum loops and adjustable tempo.
2) Dunlop Classic Wah (70-100+ bucks) – The only wah pedal you should really consider. It’s nice for make obnoxious sounds that piss off people. Or for playing Jimi Hendrix, RATM, Gunz And Roses, or any other band that uses a Wah.
3) BOSS brand effects (Varies) – If you need a chorus, overdrive, etc., get these. They are usually the best.
Distortion is caused by overloading your amplifier with high volume or gain. The amplifier will increase the guitar sounds by a certain amount, referred to as gain. If you set your gain to a high value, your sound will begin to distort as you start to reach the wattage limit of your amplifier. A clean channel has low gain. A dirty channel has high gain. There are many kinds of amps. For now, just get a combo amp (has the amp and a speaker together).
At minimum, to play electric guitar you must have an electric guitar, an instrument wire, and a combo amplifier. For those on a budget, remember that guitar and amplifier are equally important in terms of sound (amplifier is actually a little more important), but also consider that a guitar is a better long-term investment, since its better to get used to a guitar that you will play for years.
When buying an electric guitar, look for the following:
1) Pickups – Pickups determine 49% of the sound of the your guitar (another 49% comes from the amplifier, the rest comes from other things). Some pickups are really twangy and sound really bright (i.e. stock Fender Telecasters) and are great for blues or country. Some pickups are really rough and heavy sounding (i.e. stock Gibson Les Pauls) and are great for rock/metal. Some pickups are extremely sensitive (i.e. stock Ibanez guitars) and are great for heavy distortion. Some pickups are a mix of all of the above (i.e. stock Stratocasters). Also consider the difference between single coil, soapbox, and humbuckling pickups. Single coils are brighter and more responsive, but make unwanted noises sometimes. Soapbox pickups often sound jazzy and sparkly but sometimes don’t work that well with distortion. Humbuckling pickups reduce noise and are perfect for distortion and/or heavy playing (rock/metal/etc.). I won’t cover custom pickups because this a beginner guide
2) Body type – Look for solid body or hollow-body, basically. Hollow body gives a jazzier sound, great for… you guessed it, jazz. Solid body is for everything else. Also consider the weight of your guitar. Heavy guitars such as the Les Pauls, can really strain your back after a few hours of playing. The width of the fret board also makes a huge difference, depending on the size of your hand. You’ll want a small and compact fret board for fast playing (as small as possible considering the size of your hands), but a wider fret board for wide bends and vibrato (blues/rock/etc.). Check the tuners too. You might want locking tuners (keeps strings in tune longer) if you do a lot of bends, or if you plan to use a whammy bar.
3) Also look for everything in the “What to look for in an acoustic guitar” list, inside the Acoustic Guitar section. It all applies to electric guitars too.
When buying an amplifier, look for the following:
1) A good clean channel – make sure your guitar sounds clear and has very distinct notes when the amp is on a clean setting with minimal gain. Your clean channel is more important than your dirty channel.
2) Appropriate wattage – 10-30 watts is more than enough for practice. Even if you play with a band, 10-15 watts will keep up with all but the loudest drummers (and I mean loud). 20-30 watts is capable of producing volumes that will cause permanent hearing loss when used indoors, so keep that in mind. 20-30 Watts is fine for any indoor performance unless you are a professional musician playing in a stadium. For large outdoor gigs and performances, consider 100 watt amps (cab heads) with at least 1-2 output jacks (to connect to speakers).
3) Tubes vs. transistors – “Tube” amps are old school amplifiers that use vacuum tubes to amplify your sound signals, rather than transistors. I personally prefer transistors, because they are easier to care for, but if you really care about sound, you might want a tube amp. Tube amps create more “even” and gradual distortion than transistors can. Most people prefer tube amp distortion to transistor-based distortion. However, tube amps are fragile and the tubes must be replaced every half year or so. Also, tube amps need a few minutes to “warm up” before you can use them, so they typically have a standby switch that keeps the tubes warm even when the amplifier is not on. Don’t leave tube amps on for long periods of time though, because it’ll burn out the tubes.
4) Effects – effects always sound better if they come from the amp itself, rather than pedals. Keep this in mind if you plan to play rock, metal, or other effect-heavy music. At very least, if you want effects, make sure you AT LEAST have a good dirty channel that allows high gain (and thus distortion).
Recommended electric guitars (slightly biased list)
1) Squier Strat (50-150 dollars) – If you are broke, this is the only guitar you can consider. No other electric guitar sounds remotely decent in this price range (under 100 dollars); that’s not an opinion, it’s a fact. Squire’s are sometimes terrible, but sometimes very decent, so try a few out.
2) Fender MIM Stratocaster (250-400+ bucks) – IMO, there is no better guitar under 1000 dollars. Sounds very close to the MIA version, but is made in Mexico instead of America, and has cheaper and more “electronic” sounding pickups. Get a Fender MIM Telecaster (same price) for twangier, brighter sound.
3) Epiphone/Gibson Les Pauls (300-1000+ bucks) – These have a rough and edgy sound. Epiphones look and feel the same and are cheaper, but have lower quality pickups.
4) Fender MIA Stratocaster (1000+ bucks) – I might be biased since I have this guitar, but I think it kicks ass. This is the world famous icon, the real deal Fender. Probably the most versatile guitar you can buy. It plays almost any kind of music. Well.
5) Gibson SG (1000+ bucks) – This is basically a Stratocaster with a heavier sound (think AC/DC).
6) Paul Reed Smith (1500+ bucks)– These kick ASS if you have 1500+ dollars to blow on a guitar. Nice deep, slightly jazzy sound. If I had the money I'd buy one.
7) Ibanez/Schecter/Jackson/ESP/etc. (varies) - I'm not a huge fan of these guitars but that's only due to the kind of music I play. These guitars tend to be better suited for heavier music (hard rock, metal, etc.) that the other guitars above. Supposedly Ibanez is one of the best in the ultra-dirt-cheap-price-range.
Recommended amplifiers (Combo amps only, don’t worry about cabs/stacks until you start performing gigs)
1) If you are broke and just starting out, get a Fender Frontman 15W, Peavey Audition, or a Roland MicroCube. Both are probably the only decent amps in the 50-100 dollar range. I think the Frontman 15W is the loudest, but it sounds worse than the others. The MicroCube has some built in effects, but isn’t very loud.
2) Roland Cube series, MicroCube, 15X, 20X, 30X (100-300 dollars)– These are the best modeling amps IMO. They are designed to simulate many different kinds of amps. I personally have a 30X and it’s awesome. They have a ton of effects and have a GREAT clean channel (most of the cubes have the same clean channel chipset as the legendary Roland JS-series)
3) Fender Super Champ XD (200+ dollars) – Stevie Ray Vaughn used Fender amps; therefore, you should too. On a serious note, the Super Champ is a cheap tube amp with effects. What’s not to love.
4) Line6 Amps (100-1000+) – I hate these amps. They sound terrible. However, they have a TON of effects (especially the spider series) so consider these if you just want variety. The Flextone series, however, is an exception. The Flextone series amps are AMAZING (but also expensive).
Pedals/Effects
I recommend you don’t get them if you are new. But if you MUST buy something, get these:
1) DigiTech 50 (30-50 bucks) – A cheap pedal that has tons of effects, as well as a drum machine with many drum loops and adjustable tempo.
2) Dunlop Classic Wah (70-100+ bucks) – The only wah pedal you should really consider. It’s nice for make obnoxious sounds that piss off people. Or for playing Jimi Hendrix, RATM, Gunz And Roses, or any other band that uses a Wah.
3) BOSS brand effects (Varies) – If you need a chorus, overdrive, etc., get these. They are usually the best.
Guitar Basics (How To Get Started)
+ Show Spoiler +
When you first get your guitar, you are going to see videos like these:
…and you will want to learn all that. Don’t do it.
Here are some good websites to help you get started:
www.justinguitar.com - Good free lessons (this website will teach all of the basics, it is extremely thorough and has video lessons too)
www.betweenthelicks.com - Basic improvisation
www.discoverguitaronline.com - Basic licks
www.ultimate-guitar.com - Tabs
Here is what you NEED to learn (in the order that you need to learn them).
Acoustic
1) Open chords (all of them)
2) Major scale
3) Barre chords (all of them)
4) Everything else
Electric
1) Movable chords (learn power chords and major, minor, sus2/4, dim, dom7, maj7, and min7) and one position of the minor pentatonic scale
2) Triads, everywhere around the neck.
3) Vibrato and bending technique, Palm Muting technique
4) Major scale
5) Modes
6) Everything else
For acoustic guitar, expect to spend 1-2 months learning how to properly play open chords. Be very serious for the first 2 months. Once you learn open chords, you can start to enjoy playing some real songs (with a capo, you’ll be able to strum almost any song)
For electric guitar, expect to spend a few months (up to a year) learning all your movable chords and the minor pentatonic scale. Once you have these down, you’ll be free to learn many full songs (including some easy guitar solos).
Also, of course, don’t neglect the basic musical skills:
ALWAYS practice the following regardless of what kind of guitar you have
1) Rhythm – Use a metronome to practice
2) Pitch – Transcribe songs or use training tools such as http://www.musictheory.net/
3) Tone – Always listen to your playing; when you play a note that sounds good, remember how you held the note
Other general tips
1) Practice slowly – when learning songs, chords, or anything really, always start at a slow tempo and build up speed later. If you are learning a song, use a slow tempo BUT always stay on tempo, even if you have to play the song 10 times slower than its real speed.
2) Relax – don’t let parts of your body tense up. If you are having trouble keeping rhythm or increasing tempo, it’s probably because some parts of your arm or body are tense. Be careful, you might not notice yourself tensing up, this is one reason why it’s helpful to have a teacher at first.
3) Have fun – learn some easy songs when you begin. Reward your practice sessions by jamming along to what music you enjoy. You’re learning guitar to become a happier person, so remember that.
Some Good, Easy Acoustic Songs
- Songs from the Beatles
- Disney songs
- Dave Mathews Band songs
- Coldplay songs
- Jack Johnson songs (after you master Barre chords)
Some Good, Easy Electric Songs
- Anything from Green Day, Blink 182, or other punk bands
- Most popular Metallica songs (minus the solos)
- Most modern rock music (if it’s less than 10 years old, it’s probably mostly power chords)
…and you will want to learn all that. Don’t do it.
Here are some good websites to help you get started:
www.justinguitar.com - Good free lessons (this website will teach all of the basics, it is extremely thorough and has video lessons too)
www.betweenthelicks.com - Basic improvisation
www.discoverguitaronline.com - Basic licks
www.ultimate-guitar.com - Tabs
Here is what you NEED to learn (in the order that you need to learn them).
Acoustic
1) Open chords (all of them)
2) Major scale
3) Barre chords (all of them)
4) Everything else
Electric
1) Movable chords (learn power chords and major, minor, sus2/4, dim, dom7, maj7, and min7) and one position of the minor pentatonic scale
2) Triads, everywhere around the neck.
3) Vibrato and bending technique, Palm Muting technique
4) Major scale
5) Modes
6) Everything else
For acoustic guitar, expect to spend 1-2 months learning how to properly play open chords. Be very serious for the first 2 months. Once you learn open chords, you can start to enjoy playing some real songs (with a capo, you’ll be able to strum almost any song)
For electric guitar, expect to spend a few months (up to a year) learning all your movable chords and the minor pentatonic scale. Once you have these down, you’ll be free to learn many full songs (including some easy guitar solos).
Also, of course, don’t neglect the basic musical skills:
ALWAYS practice the following regardless of what kind of guitar you have
1) Rhythm – Use a metronome to practice
2) Pitch – Transcribe songs or use training tools such as http://www.musictheory.net/
3) Tone – Always listen to your playing; when you play a note that sounds good, remember how you held the note
Other general tips
1) Practice slowly – when learning songs, chords, or anything really, always start at a slow tempo and build up speed later. If you are learning a song, use a slow tempo BUT always stay on tempo, even if you have to play the song 10 times slower than its real speed.
2) Relax – don’t let parts of your body tense up. If you are having trouble keeping rhythm or increasing tempo, it’s probably because some parts of your arm or body are tense. Be careful, you might not notice yourself tensing up, this is one reason why it’s helpful to have a teacher at first.
3) Have fun – learn some easy songs when you begin. Reward your practice sessions by jamming along to what music you enjoy. You’re learning guitar to become a happier person, so remember that.
Some Good, Easy Acoustic Songs
- Songs from the Beatles
- Disney songs
- Dave Mathews Band songs
- Coldplay songs
- Jack Johnson songs (after you master Barre chords)
Some Good, Easy Electric Songs
- Anything from Green Day, Blink 182, or other punk bands
- Most popular Metallica songs (minus the solos)
- Most modern rock music (if it’s less than 10 years old, it’s probably mostly power chords)
Conclusion
Alright, you made it through the guide (or skipped to the end, shame on you)! Did you think about those three things in the introduction? I asked you to consider what kind of music you like, how hard you will practice, and what your budget is.
Well, now that you've read the guide, take some time and make a decision! Regarding budget, keep in mind that high end guitars are often expensive due to unessential embellishments or cosmetics. However, an expensive guitar is also a better long term investment, since it makes more sense to get one guitar that you'll be happy with for a lifetime, rather than buy many guitars incrementally. Ultimately, you have to have honestly evaluate yourself and decide how deep your desire to learn guitar is. Don't be afraid to jump in. Honestly, I started guitar because I thought it'd help with girls. It kind of does, but now I've truly grown to love guitar. You shouldn't underestimate the power of music
Anyway, hopefully this guide was helpful for you. Learning guitar is a long and difficult process, but the rewards will benefit you for a lifetime. Compared to other instruments, I think guitar is by far the most relaxing and natural to play. If you haven’t picked up music until now, and you just want to have some fun, I can’t recommend any instrument other than guitar.
Seriously, if you have any doubt in your mind, slap together 300 bucks and go pick up an acoustic. You might find a lifelong passion you never knew you had.
Have fun!
Well, now that you've read the guide, take some time and make a decision! Regarding budget, keep in mind that high end guitars are often expensive due to unessential embellishments or cosmetics. However, an expensive guitar is also a better long term investment, since it makes more sense to get one guitar that you'll be happy with for a lifetime, rather than buy many guitars incrementally. Ultimately, you have to have honestly evaluate yourself and decide how deep your desire to learn guitar is. Don't be afraid to jump in. Honestly, I started guitar because I thought it'd help with girls. It kind of does, but now I've truly grown to love guitar. You shouldn't underestimate the power of music
Anyway, hopefully this guide was helpful for you. Learning guitar is a long and difficult process, but the rewards will benefit you for a lifetime. Compared to other instruments, I think guitar is by far the most relaxing and natural to play. If you haven’t picked up music until now, and you just want to have some fun, I can’t recommend any instrument other than guitar.
Seriously, if you have any doubt in your mind, slap together 300 bucks and go pick up an acoustic. You might find a lifelong passion you never knew you had.
Have fun!
Extra (Videos of me and other people playing)
+ Show Spoiler +
Here are some songs that you WILL for sure be able to play within a few months, if you practice.
And here are some songs that might take a little longer to learn
And here are some songs that you will probably never be able to play (lol)
And here are some songs that might take a little longer to learn
And here are some songs that you will probably never be able to play (lol)
![[image loading]](http://pages.sbcglobal.net/isaka/images/SYairiYD302.jpg)
![[image loading]](https://lamusic.ca/pics/13537.jpg)
