EPTMany people are trying to build a computer, and I know a lot of people recognize me as the helpless lecher always asking dumb questions in Tech Support, but I feel like that is a benefit as it allows me to write a guide from a perspective of a newbie.
Do not get me wrong, I am not trying to jack the Computer Build Resource Thread, please do post all your questions there, however this is a good additional resource for first timers (fell free to ask me here though)! The Resource Thread is somewhat good, but contains many information for 2-3rd time builders, not first. First time builders would not recognize what x16/x16 is, HSF, and don't need to know about stuff like CAS timings and Frequency.
I would also like to get off my chest that I do not understand much about AMD processors, so sorry if I leave them out a bit in this thread. However, I do not think it is THAT important, refer to my CPU section to see more about AMD processors.
If you have already built a computer at least once, this is not the blog/guide for you!
This guide will be written assuming the computer is running on a single GPU setup, without a Solid State Drive, though I will go into information about that. All information will be from my own knowledge over what I learned, and from this word on I will not look at other pages for information (except Google Images to show you guys pictures!).
So what the heck do I need to build a computer?
ez, I will elaborate over the parts later, but this is what you need! These are all mandatory parts, I will discuss optional parts such as additional coolers and such later. This list is assuming you want a graphics card for standard gaming. >.>
1) Power Supply (PSU)
2) Processor (CPU)
3) Graphics Card (GPU)
4) Motherboard (MOBO)
5) Optical Drive (DVD Burner)
6) Internal Hard Drive (HDD)
7) Computer Case (We assume you are going to put your system in a case, yes?)
8) Operating System (OS, usually Windows 7 64 Bit)
9) RAM
With all those parts, I can give you a fully functional computer considering they are compatible with each other! (I guess you could leave the computer case out :D)
Great, I know the parts, so now what?
-So what are these parts?
I will elaborate as simple as I can so you get a basic idea of what they do.
1) Power Supply- + Show Spoiler +
A "box" the power plug goes into, connects to every single part in the list above from items 1 through 6, usually 3 but I will go into that later, just assume it plugs into all the parts from 1-6.
What do I look for in a power supply?
The two main things are Wattage Supply and Reliability (AKA Brand). You usually do not just want to search for a PSU on Newegg and find the one with the lowest price, big no. If the PSU somehow screws up and delivers conked out power all your parts can and probably will screw over. At best it stops delivering power and you get a new one, at worst all your parts fry. GG
So about watts... Since you do not know about the the GPU and CPU names and overall performance levels yet, let us worry about that later.
What do I look for in a power supply?
The two main things are Wattage Supply and Reliability (AKA Brand). You usually do not just want to search for a PSU on Newegg and find the one with the lowest price, big no. If the PSU somehow screws up and delivers conked out power all your parts can and probably will screw over. At best it stops delivering power and you get a new one, at worst all your parts fry. GG
So about watts... Since you do not know about the the GPU and CPU names and overall performance levels yet, let us worry about that later.
2) Processor (CPU)
+ Show Spoiler +
The most important aspect in your computer. Everything you do from starting it up (and loading Windows system files) to playing an intense team game in SC2 comes down to how fast it is. In games, it works with the GPU, but if your CPU is slow, it will "bottleneck" the GPU, meaning it holds it back from letting it achieve its true potential = you waste money on GPU & sad GPU.
What makes a processor fast?
-Number of Cores
-Clock Speed per Core
-Architecture (AKA Brand and Generation in simple terms)
-Extra Features
The two brands for CPUs (kind of an oligopoly in CPU production right now) are AMD and Intel. AMD wins in number of cores and clock speed per core ratio to price, but Intel's superior architecture is what makes everyone suggest them on TeamLiquid. Clock speed is measured by Gigahertz, (GHz), and you can identify the number of cores by its name (at least for AMD series, x2 will mean Dual Core, x3 is TriCore, x4 is Quad Core, x6 is Hexa Core).
Intel Core i3s are strong dual cores, i5s are quad cores, and i7s under 970 are quad cores as well.
A quad core is what you would always get, even if your budget is ridiculously high (well under 2,000, if you want a 990X and know what it is you probably shouldn't be reading this). If you are on a low budget, a i3 would be fine, as its dual cores are strong. The higher number of cores, the better your computer is for multitasking and video editing and stuff. SC2 only uses up to 2 cores (and gets like MINIMAL benefits from a few more, MINIMAL, dw about it for now). Streaming will require preferably four cores.
Intel wins by architecture, as a 3.0 GHz core from an Intel Core i3 would be faster than a 3.0 GHz core from a Phenom II x6. There are other stuff like memory cache and stuff, but that is too complicated, and really you don't really look at that when buying a processor for the most part if it is your first itme.
Extra features are stuff are like whether the processor is unlocked (Extra $10), has Integrated Graphics (going to assume you aren't using that though), or has stuff like Hyperthreading. Hyperthreading will be rarely used except for a BIT when streaming (have to emphasize BIT), and HQ photo and video editing, found only in i3s and i7s. Unlocked means it is easier for overclocking, which I will discuss later on.
Turbo boost is an extra feature, which makes the CPU lightly "overclock" (run faster by increasing clock speed per core) when your CPU usage rises. TB is a term used by Intel, which I think AMD calls it Turbo Core.
Ok so what should I get?
Honestly you want your CPU as recent as possible, and to fit your budget. If you are not gaming/heavy editting and just want a computer for basic needs (email, Youtube, movies), an i3 2100 would make your computer run smoothly, but an i5 2400 would be better, however any above you probably won't notice a difference. *All prices will be given in United States, I do not know much about Canada prices, sorry! When I say equivalents I mean processors that run SIMILAR and almost at/faster speed.
I would suggest Intel Cores all the way! Again I will assume you are building a computer for gaming at the very least, so I will leave out low-end cores such as Athlons and Pentiums.
i3 2100- Dual Core 3.1 GHz- $109-120
Hyperthreading: Yes
Unlocked: No
Turboboost: No
Equivalents: AMD Phenom II x4 955/965, depends on the situation though.
i5 2400- Quad Core 3.1 GHz- $180-190
Hyperthreading: No
Unlocked: No
Turboboost: Yes
Equivalents: i5 2300, i5 2500, i5 2500K at factory settings
*I skipped i5 2300 because it is $6 cheaper on Newegg, and I find it waste of a time to post it.
i5 2500-Quad Core 3.3 GHz $200-210
Same as i5 2400
*You should get an i5 2400 if you are planning to get an i5 2500, the $20 difference isn't usually worth the difference.
i5 2500K- Quad Core 3.3 GHz $210-225
Hyperthreading: No
Unlocked: YES
Turboboost: Yes
Equivalents: If Overclocked N/A, if not OCd: i5 2500 exactly, i5 2400
i7 2600-Quad Core 3.4 GHz $310-320
Hyperthreading: YES
Unlocked: No
Turboboost: YES
Equivalents: i7 2600k at factory settings, i5 2500 without Turboboost
i7 2600K-Quad Core 3.4 GHz $310-320
Hyperthreading: YES
Unlocked: YES
Turboboost: YES
Equivalents: i7 2600 if this is at factory settings, i5 2500 without Turboboost "
i7 990X- Hexa Core 3.46 GHz-$1000
Hyperthreading: Yes
Unlocked: Yes
Turboboost: Yes
Equivalents: Jesus
*Ok no but seriously you would never read this thread if you are really planning on getting this.
What the hell is overclock, unlocked, why do you mention factory settings?
Overclock is the act of pushing a processor past its stock speed by increasing its clock multiplier (which raises the clock speed per core, GHz). You would usually overclock from 3.3 GHz to 4.0, 4.2, and 4.5 at most if you are reading this. I will make a guide on Overclocking later on in another blog entry. The Black Editions (BE) for an AMD processor is the same as unlocked. Unlocked processors for Intel will end with a K.
A processor is unlocked when the clock multiplier is unlocked, where you can raise it as much as you want (safely that is, I think the limit is 5.1 GHz? depending on your MOBO, but let's just say as high as you want). If you plan on OCing past 4.5 GHz, you probably again shouldn't be reading this guide. Locked processors will only allow you to overclock up to a certain point (3.9 GHz, around that, and more difficult).
What makes a processor fast?
-Number of Cores
-Clock Speed per Core
-Architecture (AKA Brand and Generation in simple terms)
-Extra Features
The two brands for CPUs (kind of an oligopoly in CPU production right now) are AMD and Intel. AMD wins in number of cores and clock speed per core ratio to price, but Intel's superior architecture is what makes everyone suggest them on TeamLiquid. Clock speed is measured by Gigahertz, (GHz), and you can identify the number of cores by its name (at least for AMD series, x2 will mean Dual Core, x3 is TriCore, x4 is Quad Core, x6 is Hexa Core).
Intel Core i3s are strong dual cores, i5s are quad cores, and i7s under 970 are quad cores as well.
A quad core is what you would always get, even if your budget is ridiculously high (well under 2,000, if you want a 990X and know what it is you probably shouldn't be reading this). If you are on a low budget, a i3 would be fine, as its dual cores are strong. The higher number of cores, the better your computer is for multitasking and video editing and stuff. SC2 only uses up to 2 cores (and gets like MINIMAL benefits from a few more, MINIMAL, dw about it for now). Streaming will require preferably four cores.
Intel wins by architecture, as a 3.0 GHz core from an Intel Core i3 would be faster than a 3.0 GHz core from a Phenom II x6. There are other stuff like memory cache and stuff, but that is too complicated, and really you don't really look at that when buying a processor for the most part if it is your first itme.
Extra features are stuff are like whether the processor is unlocked (Extra $10), has Integrated Graphics (going to assume you aren't using that though), or has stuff like Hyperthreading. Hyperthreading will be rarely used except for a BIT when streaming (have to emphasize BIT), and HQ photo and video editing, found only in i3s and i7s. Unlocked means it is easier for overclocking, which I will discuss later on.
Turbo boost is an extra feature, which makes the CPU lightly "overclock" (run faster by increasing clock speed per core) when your CPU usage rises. TB is a term used by Intel, which I think AMD calls it Turbo Core.
Ok so what should I get?
Honestly you want your CPU as recent as possible, and to fit your budget. If you are not gaming/heavy editting and just want a computer for basic needs (email, Youtube, movies), an i3 2100 would make your computer run smoothly, but an i5 2400 would be better, however any above you probably won't notice a difference. *All prices will be given in United States, I do not know much about Canada prices, sorry! When I say equivalents I mean processors that run SIMILAR and almost at/faster speed.
I would suggest Intel Cores all the way! Again I will assume you are building a computer for gaming at the very least, so I will leave out low-end cores such as Athlons and Pentiums.
i3 2100- Dual Core 3.1 GHz- $109-120
Hyperthreading: Yes
Unlocked: No
Turboboost: No
Equivalents: AMD Phenom II x4 955/965, depends on the situation though.
i5 2400- Quad Core 3.1 GHz- $180-190
Hyperthreading: No
Unlocked: No
Turboboost: Yes
Equivalents: i5 2300, i5 2500, i5 2500K at factory settings
*I skipped i5 2300 because it is $6 cheaper on Newegg, and I find it waste of a time to post it.
i5 2500-Quad Core 3.3 GHz $200-210
Same as i5 2400
*You should get an i5 2400 if you are planning to get an i5 2500, the $20 difference isn't usually worth the difference.
i5 2500K- Quad Core 3.3 GHz $210-225
Hyperthreading: No
Unlocked: YES
Turboboost: Yes
Equivalents: If Overclocked N/A, if not OCd: i5 2500 exactly, i5 2400
i7 2600-Quad Core 3.4 GHz $310-320
Hyperthreading: YES
Unlocked: No
Turboboost: YES
Equivalents: i7 2600k at factory settings, i5 2500 without Turboboost
i7 2600K-Quad Core 3.4 GHz $310-320
Hyperthreading: YES
Unlocked: YES
Turboboost: YES
Equivalents: i7 2600 if this is at factory settings, i5 2500 without Turboboost "
i7 990X- Hexa Core 3.46 GHz-$1000
Hyperthreading: Yes
Unlocked: Yes
Turboboost: Yes
Equivalents: Jesus
*Ok no but seriously you would never read this thread if you are really planning on getting this.
What the hell is overclock, unlocked, why do you mention factory settings?
Overclock is the act of pushing a processor past its stock speed by increasing its clock multiplier (which raises the clock speed per core, GHz). You would usually overclock from 3.3 GHz to 4.0, 4.2, and 4.5 at most if you are reading this. I will make a guide on Overclocking later on in another blog entry. The Black Editions (BE) for an AMD processor is the same as unlocked. Unlocked processors for Intel will end with a K.
A processor is unlocked when the clock multiplier is unlocked, where you can raise it as much as you want (safely that is, I think the limit is 5.1 GHz? depending on your MOBO, but let's just say as high as you want). If you plan on OCing past 4.5 GHz, you probably again shouldn't be reading this guide. Locked processors will only allow you to overclock up to a certain point (3.9 GHz, around that, and more difficult).
3) Graphics Card- GPU
+ Show Spoiler +
So the graphics card is what generates the output display onto your monitor(s). StarCraft II, as you may heard, is not as GPU-demanding compared to other modern games, but more CPU intense due to unit statistic calculations and such. An ATI 6850 priced at $149-170 or GTX 460 for a similar price can run StarCraft II on ultra at 60 FPS considering your CPU is not bottlenecking it. Whether your computer has Direct X 11, 3D rendering, or supports HDMI/multiple monitors depends on the graphics card. Like CPUs, there are two companies that produce graphic cards, Nvidia and AMD (ATI). However, unlike CPUs, AMD is actually competing with Nvidia quite closely. Nvidia supposedly is ahead in technology, but AMD's somewhat cheaper prices is what allows them to sell their cards, along with their drivers being easier to manage.
ATI Eyefinity/Nvidia Surround is the term used for multiple monitors connecting together to form a larger "surround" view. Nvidia Surround requires at least 2 GPUs (thanks to T0fuuu).
![[image loading]](http://www.totalpcgaming.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/eyefinity2.jpg)
The graphics card you need depends on the maximum resolution your monitor supports (or what you want to play on). Standard is 1920x1080, and a bit lower is 1680x1050 for desktops. As long as you are not using a completely outdated Graphics Card, you can check if your monitor supports 1920x1080 by either searching its model or right-clicking Desktop and clicking SCREEN RESOLUTION (for Windows 7) and seeing the highest the bar goes up to.
To check your current graphics card, go to Windows Search, and search Device Manager and click on it. Click on Display Adapters and it should tell you. Google it to see the highest resolution it supports. Playing on 1680x1050 or 1920x1080 can seriously affect the outcome of what graphics card you are using.
1680x1050 Graphic Cards
ATI 5670 should run perfectly for Low and Medium and high at around 40 FPS.
ATI 5770 is a great budget card, able to run on Ultra at 1680x1050.
GTS 450 is slightly SLIGHTLY worse than the 5770, but a great card if you are a Nvidia fan.
[u]1920x1080 Graphic Cards[u]
Most of you will probably be playing on 1920x1080, unless your monitor runs on 1680x1050 max.
If you are not planning to play on Ultra, a 5770 can still handle StarCraft 2 up to High on a perfect FPS, and decently on Ultra.
ATI 6850 is the perfect card for someone into StarCraft 2 and other non-intense games. It runs at 60 FPS Ultra on SC2, and 60 FPS Max on Dragon Nest. Overall, this card is great for budget builds and won't disappoint.
If you are into serious graphics like BF3, the ATI 6870 will cost about $30 more. It is similar to the 6850 but slightly faster. If you are only into StarCraft 2 and not the new modern games such as Crysis 2 and sorts, the 6850 should already be enough.
The GTX 460 1 GB is the Nvidia equivalent of the ATI 6850. In single card configurations, they are equal and the 6850 should be a bit cheaper/same price. However, the GTX 460 overclocks extremely easier compared to the 6850 and most cards, and dual GTX 460 would be faster than dual 6850.
If you really have a decent budget (~1050) and want a durable piece of rock, you can get the GTX 560 TI. It decimates any of the previous cards I mentioned, and has a good power consumption to performance ratio. The GTX 560 TI should be futureproof for at least a few more upcoming intense graphic games.
The ATI 6950 1 GB is said to be about the same price as a GTX 560 TI and runs about the same speed. However, the GTX 560 TI has better temperatures and noise levels.
When memory (in terms of MB and GB) are given after a graphics card, it means the amount of memory that comes with the graphics card. Rendering graphics does take computer memory, and usually 1 GB should be enough for most situations. I will discuss what memory and stuff is in the RAM section, as well as GPU memory.
Nvidia SLI and ATI Crossfire technology is the technology that allows two or more (multiple) graphic cards running together. However, two ATI 6850s does not mean that your computer runs like 2x 6850, generally it is about 1.5-1.8x, depending on how well your card is designed for SLI. Usually, if you are building a NEW computer, you would refrain from using multiple GPUs as its possible consumption and temperatures do not coincide with its price. You would also never run two mediocre cards, a general rule is to not run dual GPUs on any card under the GTX 460 or ATI 6850, as the performance is not worth the money you put into getting the additional one.
Overclocking a GPU is similar to a CPU, you as pushing it past its default factory settings (MHz this time) for it to run faster. Overclocking will be in another entry, but let's just say here that overclocking a GPU is extremely easier and safer than a CPU.
ATI Eyefinity/Nvidia Surround is the term used for multiple monitors connecting together to form a larger "surround" view. Nvidia Surround requires at least 2 GPUs (thanks to T0fuuu).
The graphics card you need depends on the maximum resolution your monitor supports (or what you want to play on). Standard is 1920x1080, and a bit lower is 1680x1050 for desktops. As long as you are not using a completely outdated Graphics Card, you can check if your monitor supports 1920x1080 by either searching its model or right-clicking Desktop and clicking SCREEN RESOLUTION (for Windows 7) and seeing the highest the bar goes up to.
To check your current graphics card, go to Windows Search, and search Device Manager and click on it. Click on Display Adapters and it should tell you. Google it to see the highest resolution it supports. Playing on 1680x1050 or 1920x1080 can seriously affect the outcome of what graphics card you are using.
1680x1050 Graphic Cards
ATI 5670 should run perfectly for Low and Medium and high at around 40 FPS.
ATI 5770 is a great budget card, able to run on Ultra at 1680x1050.
GTS 450 is slightly SLIGHTLY worse than the 5770, but a great card if you are a Nvidia fan.
[u]1920x1080 Graphic Cards[u]
Most of you will probably be playing on 1920x1080, unless your monitor runs on 1680x1050 max.
If you are not planning to play on Ultra, a 5770 can still handle StarCraft 2 up to High on a perfect FPS, and decently on Ultra.
ATI 6850 is the perfect card for someone into StarCraft 2 and other non-intense games. It runs at 60 FPS Ultra on SC2, and 60 FPS Max on Dragon Nest. Overall, this card is great for budget builds and won't disappoint.
If you are into serious graphics like BF3, the ATI 6870 will cost about $30 more. It is similar to the 6850 but slightly faster. If you are only into StarCraft 2 and not the new modern games such as Crysis 2 and sorts, the 6850 should already be enough.
The GTX 460 1 GB is the Nvidia equivalent of the ATI 6850. In single card configurations, they are equal and the 6850 should be a bit cheaper/same price. However, the GTX 460 overclocks extremely easier compared to the 6850 and most cards, and dual GTX 460 would be faster than dual 6850.
If you really have a decent budget (~1050) and want a durable piece of rock, you can get the GTX 560 TI. It decimates any of the previous cards I mentioned, and has a good power consumption to performance ratio. The GTX 560 TI should be futureproof for at least a few more upcoming intense graphic games.
The ATI 6950 1 GB is said to be about the same price as a GTX 560 TI and runs about the same speed. However, the GTX 560 TI has better temperatures and noise levels.
When memory (in terms of MB and GB) are given after a graphics card, it means the amount of memory that comes with the graphics card. Rendering graphics does take computer memory, and usually 1 GB should be enough for most situations. I will discuss what memory and stuff is in the RAM section, as well as GPU memory.
Nvidia SLI and ATI Crossfire technology is the technology that allows two or more (multiple) graphic cards running together. However, two ATI 6850s does not mean that your computer runs like 2x 6850, generally it is about 1.5-1.8x, depending on how well your card is designed for SLI. Usually, if you are building a NEW computer, you would refrain from using multiple GPUs as its possible consumption and temperatures do not coincide with its price. You would also never run two mediocre cards, a general rule is to not run dual GPUs on any card under the GTX 460 or ATI 6850, as the performance is not worth the money you put into getting the additional one.
Overclocking a GPU is similar to a CPU, you as pushing it past its default factory settings (MHz this time) for it to run faster. Overclocking will be in another entry, but let's just say here that overclocking a GPU is extremely easier and safer than a CPU.
4) Motherboard- MOBO
+ Show Spoiler +
The motherboard is what you are going to stick the RAM cards, processor chip, graphic card, and a bunch of cables to. Your motherboard is what determines how versatile your system can be, such as whether it supports overclocking, multiple graphic cards, the RAM limit, USB 3.0, integrated graphics, and etc.
The two things you want to look for in a motherboard is the chipset, model (H61, H67, etc...) and features. Each generation of processors have their own chipset, for example, the Intel Core i3, i5, and i7 processors all use the chipset LGA1155, while the Core 2 Quads use LGA 775. The AMD Phenom IIs all use the AM3 chipset.
For Intel LGA1155s, there are five main types of motherboards (if you are reading this you will only consider three or four while buying them).
H61
H67
P67
Z68
X58
H61 is a good board if you are using it for a standard CPU-Single GPU configuration computer. It does NOT support overclocking, and some of them have USB 3.0. H61 does not support SATA 3 6.0GB/sec, which should not make that much of a difference if you are not using a special internal hard drive, which I will discuss in that section.
H67 is almost the same thing as H61, but with SATA 3 and the feature to overclock your GPU, which many people don't really bother to. You would always pick H61 over H67 unless you are using a SSD (in the HDD section). Both H67 and H61 support integrated graphics in the processor, which isn't that great for gaming so unless you are building a non-gaming computer you don't worry about that.
P67 is completely different. They usually do support USB 3.0, SATA 3, and ALLOWS overclocking, but does not come with the ability to overclock GPUs nor integrated graphics.
Z68 is the boss, as it supports everything mentioned before: USB 3.0, SATA 3, Integrated Graphics, Overclocking for both CPU and GPU. It has other small stuff like SSD cacheing, but don't worry about that for now.
X58, in my opinion, if you are planning to get one, should not be reading this guide. X58 supports triple channel memory (RAM), and has other fancy stuff with PCIE slots, but again that is too advanced for the people reading this guide. (Honestly I do not understand much about X58 either haha).
You want to see the number of PCI Express 2.0 x16 slots in your motherboard. Usually they come with one, but you would need two to support SLI and Crossfire.
There are many motherboard brands, my favorite being Biostar. ASRock and ASUS are good brands as well, and others like MSI are other reputable. I have never used an Intel board, so if anyone could review that on TL I would be grateful!
Summary: If you are planning to not overclock anything, get the H61 motherboard. If you are not planning to overclock anything but want a SSD, get the H67 motherboard. If you are planning to overclock your CPU, get the P67.
The two things you want to look for in a motherboard is the chipset, model (H61, H67, etc...) and features. Each generation of processors have their own chipset, for example, the Intel Core i3, i5, and i7 processors all use the chipset LGA1155, while the Core 2 Quads use LGA 775. The AMD Phenom IIs all use the AM3 chipset.
For Intel LGA1155s, there are five main types of motherboards (if you are reading this you will only consider three or four while buying them).
H61
H67
P67
Z68
X58
H61 is a good board if you are using it for a standard CPU-Single GPU configuration computer. It does NOT support overclocking, and some of them have USB 3.0. H61 does not support SATA 3 6.0GB/sec, which should not make that much of a difference if you are not using a special internal hard drive, which I will discuss in that section.
H67 is almost the same thing as H61, but with SATA 3 and the feature to overclock your GPU, which many people don't really bother to. You would always pick H61 over H67 unless you are using a SSD (in the HDD section). Both H67 and H61 support integrated graphics in the processor, which isn't that great for gaming so unless you are building a non-gaming computer you don't worry about that.
P67 is completely different. They usually do support USB 3.0, SATA 3, and ALLOWS overclocking, but does not come with the ability to overclock GPUs nor integrated graphics.
Z68 is the boss, as it supports everything mentioned before: USB 3.0, SATA 3, Integrated Graphics, Overclocking for both CPU and GPU. It has other small stuff like SSD cacheing, but don't worry about that for now.
X58, in my opinion, if you are planning to get one, should not be reading this guide. X58 supports triple channel memory (RAM), and has other fancy stuff with PCIE slots, but again that is too advanced for the people reading this guide. (Honestly I do not understand much about X58 either haha).
You want to see the number of PCI Express 2.0 x16 slots in your motherboard. Usually they come with one, but you would need two to support SLI and Crossfire.
There are many motherboard brands, my favorite being Biostar. ASRock and ASUS are good brands as well, and others like MSI are other reputable. I have never used an Intel board, so if anyone could review that on TL I would be grateful!
Summary: If you are planning to not overclock anything, get the H61 motherboard. If you are not planning to overclock anything but want a SSD, get the H67 motherboard. If you are planning to overclock your CPU, get the P67.
5) Optical Drive- DVD Burner
+ Show Spoiler +
Quite simple, it reads and burns CDs and DVDs. For the average computer builder, something like this would be perfect.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106289
It would read your CDs like the Operating System and Game Installations perfectly, as well as burn casual slideshows, music tracks, and files. If you, however, want to watch BluRay movies (or burn them), you would need an optical drive with that feature inside.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135252
As you may notice, the price cost increases severely. To be candid, I am not that knowledgable about BluRay and optical drives overall, but the three brands I would suggest for standard DVD optical drives would be:
Samsung
Lite-ON
LG
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106289
It would read your CDs like the Operating System and Game Installations perfectly, as well as burn casual slideshows, music tracks, and files. If you, however, want to watch BluRay movies (or burn them), you would need an optical drive with that feature inside.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135252
As you may notice, the price cost increases severely. To be candid, I am not that knowledgable about BluRay and optical drives overall, but the three brands I would suggest for standard DVD optical drives would be:
Samsung
Lite-ON
LG
6) Internal Hard Drives- HDDs (with some discussion about SSDs)
+ Show Spoiler +
Our internal hard drive is what stores all your files from your system files to games and word documents. A standard HDD for a regular computer would consist of a storage space of 500 GB to 1 TB, and standard SATA 2 with 7200 RPM.
Reliable brands for HDDs would be:
Western Digital (WD)
Seagate
Samsung SpinPoints
There are three major Western Digial types, Caviar Green, Blue, and Black. I would suggest getting the Blue, it is the most standard HDD. The Green is kind of horrible as your main drive, it is more just for extra storage of files. The black has a slight performance increase, though I would not suggest spending the extra money on it.
1 TB- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136767
500 GB- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136073
However, if you are building a new system, I would suggest buying an optical drive and HDD combo. You can get an LG Optical Drive with a Seagate HDD at great discounts on Newegg.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductCombos.aspx?Item=N82E16827136216&SubCategory=5&SortField=0&PageSize=10&page=1
Solid State Drives are a fancy (and better) HDD, meant for storing only the most important files. Files in SSDs will open faster. The most common files to put in a SSD would be your operating system, as it drastically reduces the boot time. Most SSDs run on SATA 3. Remember the SSD is an optional drive, and most computers do not have one, so if you aren't interested in spending about $80 to $150 on letting your computer boot up faster along with a few other programs, don't worry about it!
This is an example of a small (60 GB) SSD:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227725&cm_sp=Cat_SSD-_-Spotlight-_-20-227-725
You should not put games and stuff inside a SSD, as it would load like 2 seconds faster, but there would not be much of a difference after the full application starts up. You would also put servers and maybe Office Apps inside them.
Reliable brands for HDDs would be:
Western Digital (WD)
Seagate
Samsung SpinPoints
There are three major Western Digial types, Caviar Green, Blue, and Black. I would suggest getting the Blue, it is the most standard HDD. The Green is kind of horrible as your main drive, it is more just for extra storage of files. The black has a slight performance increase, though I would not suggest spending the extra money on it.
1 TB- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136767
500 GB- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136073
However, if you are building a new system, I would suggest buying an optical drive and HDD combo. You can get an LG Optical Drive with a Seagate HDD at great discounts on Newegg.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductCombos.aspx?Item=N82E16827136216&SubCategory=5&SortField=0&PageSize=10&page=1
Solid State Drives are a fancy (and better) HDD, meant for storing only the most important files. Files in SSDs will open faster. The most common files to put in a SSD would be your operating system, as it drastically reduces the boot time. Most SSDs run on SATA 3. Remember the SSD is an optional drive, and most computers do not have one, so if you aren't interested in spending about $80 to $150 on letting your computer boot up faster along with a few other programs, don't worry about it!
This is an example of a small (60 GB) SSD:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227725&cm_sp=Cat_SSD-_-Spotlight-_-20-227-725
You should not put games and stuff inside a SSD, as it would load like 2 seconds faster, but there would not be much of a difference after the full application starts up. You would also put servers and maybe Office Apps inside them.
7) Computer Case
+ Show Spoiler +
The main thing you want to look for in your case is if it is compatible with your motherboard. There are two types of motherboard pins, MicroATX and ATX. Check your case details to see which ones it is compatible with (some are compatible with both). Usually H61s and H67s use MicroATX (I know all H61s use MicroATX).
A side window for a case is optional, but I find that it looks fancy (some people don't like it though). What gives the case lighting through a window is usually an LCD case fan. A case usually has 2-4 case fans, as two (one on the side and one on the bottom front near the hard drive) is usually enough, though my computer has another fan on the back.
A quality case can vary from $40 to $300. This case will not disappoint for ANY build as long as it fits:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119227
It is compatible with both MicroATX and ATX and has a nice side window, and supports up to FIVE fans. It only comes with one for the hard drive section though, so I would buy 2 more 120 MM fans (one with LCD).
If you don't want a side window, this is another high quality case:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119233
Both are full steel cases with exceptional quality for their prices.
I have used the Raidmax Tornado, and I would suggest against it as it is somewhat small compared to other cases in its price range (does not fit heatsinks like the Xigmatek Gaia), feels kind of flimsy and cheap, internal aluminum parts cut you easily, does not lock in most optical drives, and has cheap flimsy port bays (for both PCIs and optical drives) that can easily break off.
Reliable brands are Coolermaster, Corsair, Antec, Lianli, and a few more.
Another factor is whether the power supply is located on the top or bottom of the case. Some say the bottom provides better ventilation, though I prefer the top as it feels better and is easier to access. Not the largest factor, and is totally up to you.
A side window for a case is optional, but I find that it looks fancy (some people don't like it though). What gives the case lighting through a window is usually an LCD case fan. A case usually has 2-4 case fans, as two (one on the side and one on the bottom front near the hard drive) is usually enough, though my computer has another fan on the back.
A quality case can vary from $40 to $300. This case will not disappoint for ANY build as long as it fits:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119227
It is compatible with both MicroATX and ATX and has a nice side window, and supports up to FIVE fans. It only comes with one for the hard drive section though, so I would buy 2 more 120 MM fans (one with LCD).
If you don't want a side window, this is another high quality case:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119233
Both are full steel cases with exceptional quality for their prices.
I have used the Raidmax Tornado, and I would suggest against it as it is somewhat small compared to other cases in its price range (does not fit heatsinks like the Xigmatek Gaia), feels kind of flimsy and cheap, internal aluminum parts cut you easily, does not lock in most optical drives, and has cheap flimsy port bays (for both PCIs and optical drives) that can easily break off.
Reliable brands are Coolermaster, Corsair, Antec, Lianli, and a few more.
Another factor is whether the power supply is located on the top or bottom of the case. Some say the bottom provides better ventilation, though I prefer the top as it feels better and is easier to access. Not the largest factor, and is totally up to you.
8) Operating System (OS)
+ Show Spoiler +
There is no reason at all to not get Windows 7 64-Bit. Keep in mind this entry is for the average builder with a budget of $600 or higher. Pirating Windows 7 is always an illegitimate option, as a lot of people are against it.
+ Show Spoiler +
To be honest, unless your budget is under $700, I would just be legitimate and buy an OS, as it saves you the hassle of having to hide updates, remove Windows Activation every few months, and other factors.
There are two types of modern Operating Systems, 32-Bit (x84) and 64-bit. Whether or not you can get 64-bit depends on your processor, though almost any modern processor you buy over $90 probably supports 64-bit. Every Intel Core and Phenom (I think) series supports 64-Bit.
64-Bit handles large amounts of system memory better than 32-bit. However, running StarCraft II on 64-bit probably won't make a difference. Programs that utilize 64-bit are Internet Explorer (though testing proves 32-bit is actually faster), iTunes, etc.
This is the standard Windows 7 disc you would get when building a computer:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116986
A system builder, in simple terms, is just a legitimate copy of Windows 7 where you cannot transfer it to another computer. It locks onto your motherboard (and does not support Windows Tech Support I think, not that any really cares though).
A main factor of having 64-bit is being able to support over 3 GB of RAM. If you have 8 GB of RAM running on a 32-bit system, it will say 8 GB of RAM (3 GB usable). Read more about RAM in the next section.
+ Show Spoiler +
http://thepiratebay.org/torrent/5242886/Windows_7_ultimate_64_bit_with_windows_crack_and_keys
Combine with RemoveWAT, hf
Combine with RemoveWAT, hf
To be honest, unless your budget is under $700, I would just be legitimate and buy an OS, as it saves you the hassle of having to hide updates, remove Windows Activation every few months, and other factors.
There are two types of modern Operating Systems, 32-Bit (x84) and 64-bit. Whether or not you can get 64-bit depends on your processor, though almost any modern processor you buy over $90 probably supports 64-bit. Every Intel Core and Phenom (I think) series supports 64-Bit.
64-Bit handles large amounts of system memory better than 32-bit. However, running StarCraft II on 64-bit probably won't make a difference. Programs that utilize 64-bit are Internet Explorer (though testing proves 32-bit is actually faster), iTunes, etc.
This is the standard Windows 7 disc you would get when building a computer:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116986
A system builder, in simple terms, is just a legitimate copy of Windows 7 where you cannot transfer it to another computer. It locks onto your motherboard (and does not support Windows Tech Support I think, not that any really cares though).
A main factor of having 64-bit is being able to support over 3 GB of RAM. If you have 8 GB of RAM running on a 32-bit system, it will say 8 GB of RAM (3 GB usable). Read more about RAM in the next section.
9) Memory (RAM)
+ Show Spoiler +
System Memory, referred as RAM, is how many programs your computer can run at once. Each application or task takes up a specific amount of memory. You can check by going to Task Manager and clicking Processes. Google Chrome is known for taking lots of memory compared to other browsers, but is supposedly faster. Explorer.exe obviously takes up a lot of RAM as it allows you to access your files and such(please don't close it).
The less RAM you have, the more your system will try to "slow down" each program so they use up less RAM, which is why programs on an old computer with 1 GB of RAM will usually seem to run slowly. The average RAM for a 64-bit computer would be 4 GB, you would rarely ever need more than 4 GB unless you are doing INTENSIVE Photoshop or Movie Editing. Almost any type of RAM can be usable. Memory brand reliability isn't as significant as, for say, PSU brands. If your memory screws up it won't jack up your entire system.
If you must, reliable brands are (in order of my preference), G.Skill (supports GSL), Corsair, Kingston, Patriot, and Crucial. You shouldn't run into any problems with their memory chips as long as they are compatible with your motherboard.
The mainstream RAM used right now is DDR3. There are three things you want to look for in RAM (two mainly):
-Type (DDR, DDR2, DDR3)
-Amount (2 GB, 4 GB, 8 GB, 16 GB, etc.)
-Speed (related with Type, will elaborate later)
For an average computer, you would always buy memory with the speed of 1333 MHz or 1600 MHz.
Example of modern 4 GB 1333 MHz memory:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145278
Example of modern 4 GB 1600 MHz memory:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145328
1600 MHz is not necessarily always more expensive, but let me just state that having faster memory is not noticeable for the most part. Buy 1600 MHz if you can, but don't spend over $5 for it!
JingleHell's test of memory speed in StarCraft 2 (good read):
http://www.teamliquid.net/blogs/viewblog.php?topic_id=245087
Some RAM have heatspreaders, but those aren't really necessary at all. You can always get fancy RAM chips from G.Skill such as the Ripjaws X and Sniper series, but you won't notice much of a difference to be honest. For example, I spend $60 on this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231479
and I can personally tell you that if I have gotten some $45 8 GB Ram my computer would run at the same speed.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231308
The maximum amount of memory you can get is dependent on how much your motherboard supports. My P67 Biostar motherboard supports up to 16 GB, while my H61 Biostar motherboard only supports up to 8 GB.
The less RAM you have, the more your system will try to "slow down" each program so they use up less RAM, which is why programs on an old computer with 1 GB of RAM will usually seem to run slowly. The average RAM for a 64-bit computer would be 4 GB, you would rarely ever need more than 4 GB unless you are doing INTENSIVE Photoshop or Movie Editing. Almost any type of RAM can be usable. Memory brand reliability isn't as significant as, for say, PSU brands. If your memory screws up it won't jack up your entire system.
If you must, reliable brands are (in order of my preference), G.Skill (supports GSL), Corsair, Kingston, Patriot, and Crucial. You shouldn't run into any problems with their memory chips as long as they are compatible with your motherboard.
The mainstream RAM used right now is DDR3. There are three things you want to look for in RAM (two mainly):
-Type (DDR, DDR2, DDR3)
-Amount (2 GB, 4 GB, 8 GB, 16 GB, etc.)
-Speed (related with Type, will elaborate later)
For an average computer, you would always buy memory with the speed of 1333 MHz or 1600 MHz.
Example of modern 4 GB 1333 MHz memory:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145278
Example of modern 4 GB 1600 MHz memory:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145328
1600 MHz is not necessarily always more expensive, but let me just state that having faster memory is not noticeable for the most part. Buy 1600 MHz if you can, but don't spend over $5 for it!
JingleHell's test of memory speed in StarCraft 2 (good read):
http://www.teamliquid.net/blogs/viewblog.php?topic_id=245087
Some RAM have heatspreaders, but those aren't really necessary at all. You can always get fancy RAM chips from G.Skill such as the Ripjaws X and Sniper series, but you won't notice much of a difference to be honest. For example, I spend $60 on this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231479
and I can personally tell you that if I have gotten some $45 8 GB Ram my computer would run at the same speed.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231308
The maximum amount of memory you can get is dependent on how much your motherboard supports. My P67 Biostar motherboard supports up to 16 GB, while my H61 Biostar motherboard only supports up to 8 GB.
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This concludes my list and explanation of mandatory computer parts, I will now make an entry about optional parts such as sound cards, wifi adapters, and heatsinks. Thank you for spending your time!
