EPTComputer Build, Upgrade & Buying Resource Thread - Page 734
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Cyro
United Kingdom20326 Posts
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Zambrah
United States7393 Posts
Does this build look alright for VR/AR type stuff? Game development? I have a GTX1060 in my laptop atm and its always been kind of a problem for lots of layers in Substance Painter, really slows to a crawl in the viewport, it also has TDR issues, lol. I imagine a 3070 would be a fairly significant upgrade so it should improve? CPU: Intel Core i5-11400F 2.6GHz (4.4GHz Turbo) 6-Core 12-Thread GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070 8GB (Brand May Vary) Motherboard: B560M Motherboard RAM: 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 3000MHz SSD: 1TB M.2 NVMe SSD CPU Cooler: RGB CPU Air Cooler PSU: 700W Gold https://www.newegg.com/abs-ali586/p/N82E16883360221?Item=N82E16883360221 or maybe this, this fits my needs better but uh... Open Box? Anyone have experience with that from Newegg? CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.60 GHz (4.40 GHz Max Boost), 8-Core 16-Thread GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070 8GB (Brand may vary) Motherboard: Gigabyte B450M DS3H WIFI RAM: 16GB DDR4 3000MHz SSD: 1TB M.2 NVMe SSD CPU Cooler: RBG CPU Cooler PSU: 750W 80 Plus Gold https://www.newegg.com/abs-ala254-gladiator/p/N82E16883360158R?Item=N82E16883360158R | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20326 Posts
I've been avoiding them for quite a while before this, it's just gotten more publicity recently | ||
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tarpman
Canada722 Posts
Right now I'm still running my build from ten years ago. Runs SC:R just fine!  I'm a pretty casual gamer. Not planning to overclock, nor attempt 4K or VR. Main reason for upgrading is to finally be able to play Star Wars Fallen Order which I bought two Christmases ago, right at the beginning of the chip shortage, and haven't been able to run yet... I am in Canada (BC), prices are in CAD and links are to Canadian stores. Loosely based on logicalincrements' Excellent tier, here's what I'm thinking: Case: already have Fractal Design Define Mini Power Supply: already have Nexus RX-8500 GPU: already have ZOTAC NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 Twin Edge OC HDD: already have WD Caviar Black WDC1001FALS Motherboard: ASUS Prime Z690M-Plus D4 $224.99 CPU: Intel Core i5-12600K $359.99 Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO V2 $59.99 (LGA1700 confirmed) RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4-3600 $89.99 (QVL lists older revision of same model) SSD: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1TB $159.99 https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/gKQvW4 Not an Amazon fan generally, but open to it if the price is better and counterfeits/returns aren't a major risk. I like Best Buy (short walk for pickup/return) but their selection is limited. I heard Newegg is not recommended any more; is that true for their Canada store too? Are Memory Express and Canada Computers both ok? Not sure how to figure out if dimensions are a concern for any of this. Saw some discussions about clearances between cooler and case or RAM. Current build is running the i5-2500's stock cooler; I've never bought a custom one before. EDIT: case manual says coolers up to 160mm are supported, should perhaps consider a shorter one to have some margin. The RAM says it's 42mm tall... Any other concerns? Thanks a lot for any feedback or suggestions! | ||
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MeSaber
Sweden1235 Posts
2nd suggestion would be to get a mesh case where you can get decent airflow as modern CPU's require that to get the expected performance from the boost-algorithm. A great airflow case would look like P400A. It will become silent because you will configure (in BIOS) how all fans will act both in idle and under full load. This will increase airflow and at the same time make the case near dead silent instead of a humming sound because of fans running at full speed in an enclosed case that still doesnt give any airflow. Cheapest alt: Citadel Mesh (good one for cheap) Beware of fake mesh: Focus G (uses glued on foam that impedes airflow, performance as enclosed case) Q300L (super tight mesh filter that impedes airflow performance close to enclosed case, ive tried this one and its terrible) | ||
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Andi_Goldberger
Germany1608 Posts
Here is my current setup: I have a 2400G, a 1660 Super and a B450 motherboard. I have 2 3000mhz ram sticks that I am probably going to keep, just like the 1660s. I also have a bequiet Dark Rock cooler. I get around 120 fps early game and it often dips into the 60s later in the game. A new 12400F+MSI B660 motherboard would cost me around 330euros. I could also go for the Ryzen 5 5600(X) which would be around 200eur. Another option could be the 5700X (300eur) OR maybe the 5800X3D (if the cache brings a big performance increase for SC2). Does anyone have good experiences with Alder Lake and SC2? Its supposedly around +10% for IPC compared to Zen3, but nobody benchmarks SC2 anymore so I don't know how Alder Lake vs Zen3 competes in SC2. Could it be worth to spend 130 more for the 12400F or IF I do spend that much would a 5700X outperform the 12400F? Addtionally, in the first reviews (https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-ryzen-7-5800x3d/) the 5800X3D shows parity with a 12900K in some games. Can we expect the large cache to impact performance in SC2 aswell? And would my 1660Super bottleneck the 5800X3D in my configuration? Thank you in advance  | ||
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MeSaber
Sweden1235 Posts
Edit: If you want the best of the best you should get a decent B550 + 5800X3D. For best budget gaming its B560 + 12400F. If you want to save the most cash keep B450 (if its a good one) and get 5600X. https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/AMD-Ryzen-5-2400G-vs-Intel-i5-12400F-vs-AMD-Ryzen-5-5600X/3183vs4681vs3859 It will be like night and day going from 2400G to any of these options. | ||
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Lmui
Canada6223 Posts
On April 13 2022 23:26 Andi_Goldberger wrote: Hello, I am looking to upgrade right now and have some questions regarding Alder Lake and Zen3. I pretty much only play SC2 these days and I am looking for a setup that would get me 144 frames throughout most of a usual ladder game. I would also love for it to run well in bigger coop games where I can often only watch a slideshow when there are a lot of units (ie in late game stukov fights). Here is my current setup: I have a 2400G, a 1660 Super and a B450 motherboard. I have 2 3000mhz ram sticks that I am probably going to keep, just like the 1660s. I also have a bequiet Dark Rock cooler. I get around 120 fps early game and it often dips into the 60s later in the game. A new 12400F+MSI B660 motherboard would cost me around 330euros. I could also go for the Ryzen 5 5600(X) which would be around 200eur. Another option could be the 5700X (300eur) OR maybe the 5800X3D (if the cache brings a big performance increase for SC2). Does anyone have good experiences with Alder Lake and SC2? Its supposedly around +10% for IPC compared to Zen3, but nobody benchmarks SC2 anymore so I don't know how Alder Lake vs Zen3 competes in SC2. Could it be worth to spend 130 more for the 12400F or IF I do spend that much would a 5700X outperform the 12400F? Addtionally, in the first reviews (https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-ryzen-7-5800x3d/) the 5800X3D shows parity with a 12900K in some games. Can we expect the large cache to impact performance in SC2 aswell? And would my 1660Super bottleneck the 5800X3D in my configuration? Thank you in advance Hardware unboxed recently did a comparison which included SC2 with the 5800x3d/12900k Both are within spitting distance of each other. The regular 5000 series aren't as good, so if you want to maximize framerates, any alder lake CPU, or the 5800x3d, depending on how attached you are to your current platform. 12400F seems like the cheapest option though. | ||
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NihiLStarcraft
Denmark1413 Posts
I built my current PC eight years ago with a lot of help from this thread. Thanks! It's been working great for all those years with zero issues, but now it's time for my second build! (The GTX 760 is getting a little old haha.) I am planning on getting an i7 12700K with 32 GB of DDR5 RAM and either an RTX 3070 or 3080, possibly TI. I don't plan on overclocking very much. Where I would like some feedback is the cooling configuration. I am planning to build this into the Lian Li O11 Dynamic EVO (not reversed), with the GPU in the standard horizontal position, not vertical or upright. Here's an MS Paint sketch: ![[image loading]](https://i.imgur.com/UAPQyH9.png) I want to use a 3x120mm AIO intake on the side panel to cool the CPU (drawn in red). The rest works like a chimney with 2x120mm intakes on the bottom (green) and 2x120mm on the top as exhaust (blue). I could of course easily add a third 120mm fan to both bottom and top if I feel the need, although I think these extra fans at the front of the case wouldn't cool anything directly. It may look nicer though. Alternatively, I could bump the 2x120mm to 2x140mm fans for slightly better cooling performance and less noise. With this configuration the CPU is cooled extremely well with the triple intake from the side, and the bottom intakes blow straight into the GPU intake fans at the bottom of the card, which should be pretty amazing for GPU temps as well. Hot air around the RAM, VRMs etc. would be blown out by the top exhausts. Question 1: What do you think about this cooling configuration in general? Also: With this setup I honestly feel like there may not be a need at all for that standard single 120mm exhaust fan in the back, near the motherboard IO, that almost all builds have. Question 2: Is that true? Why is that fan so popular anyways? Thanks ahead of time! | ||
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MeSaber
Sweden1235 Posts
The rear fan is fast escape without the need for front pressure. It could very much be helpful, especially with VRM cooling, keeping hot air from moving over VRM area. ![[image loading]](https://i.imgur.com/qpXU6qn.png) | ||
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NihiLStarcraft
Denmark1413 Posts
So based on your feedback I have decided to not cheap out on the cooling too much and go with a full 3x120mm in the top and bottom. That way I get an unobstructed chimney of fresh outside air rising up, straight along the exhaust of the side AIO. I am pretty confident that this will transport the semi-hot air from the AIO pretty much straight up and out of the case without too much issue. Regarding the single back 120mm fan: I do see the point of it if the GPU exhausts hot air up like in your sketch, essentially trying to pull and exhaust that hot GPU air out the back before it hits the VRMs, CPU and RAM on the motherboard. But I think the GPUs I have looked at are designed to exhaust their hot air out the back of the case, or atleast most of it. Either way, I have extra fans, so I can just check the temps with nine fans (3x top, 3x bottom and 3x side AIO) and add that exhaust at the back if necessary. Thanks again for the input. | ||
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MeSaber
Sweden1235 Posts
The curve per fan should look something like this: ![[image loading]](https://i.imgur.com/DJ8q4qR.png) Reasons being: When you arent doing anything at the computer the fans should be close to idle or silent, this gives you the indication the computer isnt doing anything. When you are playing games or other tasks the fans should ramp up to near-silent mode where you have your threshold of percieved noise. When PC runs at fault the fans should ramp up to max speed to indicate an error, check your system to see if something failed or change threshold for error-mode. Depending on where you have your PC and if noise matters or not, adjust curve accordingly. Edit: Maybe a better picture: ![[image loading]](https://i.imgur.com/M6l2XYI.png) Grey - Ludicrous mode. You dont care about noise. You use headphones. Green - Performance mode. Its what i use, but yeah i do hear the PC while sitting in sofa watching TV. (i got a crappy chassi too) Red - Silent mode. You care about noise. You have your PC close to TV-room. Blue - Eco mode. Energy bills anyone? Dont care? Well ok. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20326 Posts
I've posted a lot of testing results with Vermeer CPU's (5900x and 5800x3d) - raw performance, scaling with RAM OC, IPC and benefits from running 8c16t instead of 6c12t if anybody is interested. https://github.com/xxEzri/Vermeer/blob/main/Guide.md And a direct link to the Starcraft 2 section: https://github.com/xxEzri/Vermeer/blob/main/Guide.md#starcraft-2 https://streamable.com/ldie1w Also if you have any requests for some absurdly large battle recordings i'm happy to run :D | ||
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MeSaber
Sweden1235 Posts
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Cyro
United Kingdom20326 Posts
On April 28 2022 15:17 MeSaber wrote: @Cyro that was a nice read. Thanks! I'm surprised how consistently positive the feedback was. Need to work on getting paid for this kinda thing next time. The SC2 performance makes me wanna load up and spend a few hours just rolling thousands of banelings into things | ||
KwarK
United States43952 Posts
Operating System Windows 10 Series Inspiron 5676 Hardware Interface Bluetooth Brand Dell Ram Memory Installed Size 16 GB RAM Memory Maximum Size 64 GB Memory Storage Capacity 1 TB Wireless Communication Technology Bluetooth Style Ryzen 7 | RX 580 RAM Memory Technology DDR4 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q3G3B67/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=tealiq-20 I upgraded from 2x8GB RAM to 2x16 GB RAM. Then some time later I fucked with the processor trying to apply new thermal paste and when it wouldn't slot back into place neatly I pressed which was apparently the wrong move. Some of the pins got misaligned. Using the smallest tweezers I possessed I got most realigned and the PC still runs but now it won't recognize one of the RAM slots. The RAM sticks are fine, I get 16GB of RAM with either stick A or stick B in slot 1. I get a failure to boot with either stick A or stick B in slot 2. It's slot 2 that is fucked but slot 2 only became fucked when I messed with the processor so my belief is that slot 2 is probably fine and it's the processor that is fucked. Either way it's annoying me when my computer freezes for 60s while I try to run OBS. My options, as I see it, are 1) New processor. Either the same as I have or a spicier one if a spicier one that is compatible with my PC exists. 2) 32GB RAM stick. Given slot 1 works fine and my PC worked fine with 2x16 I could just buy a 32GB and stick it in slot 1. 3) Take my PC to a professional and have them try to unfuck it. My worries with this is that professionals charge a fair bit hourly and there's not really any guarantee that they could unfuck whatever I broke. Suggestions? | ||
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MeSaber
Sweden1235 Posts
Do all pins on CPU exist? Have you checked CPU slot if it looks ok? Seeing as its proprietary (Dell mobo?), i guess you dont have much options. Changing to a better CPU might not work because no drivers to your mobo (maybe). Get a 2nd-hand CPU for cheap? | ||
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Simberto
Germany11813 Posts
On May 20 2022 06:28 KwarK wrote: My computer has these base specs Operating System Windows 10 Series Inspiron 5676 Hardware Interface Bluetooth Brand Dell Ram Memory Installed Size 16 GB RAM Memory Maximum Size 64 GB Memory Storage Capacity 1 TB Wireless Communication Technology Bluetooth Style Ryzen 7 | RX 580 RAM Memory Technology DDR4 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q3G3B67/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=tealiq-20 I upgraded from 2x8GB RAM to 2x16 GB RAM. Then some time later I fucked with the processor trying to apply new thermal paste and when it wouldn't slot back into place neatly I pressed which was apparently the wrong move. Some of the pins got misaligned. Using the smallest tweezers I possessed I got most realigned and the PC still runs but now it won't recognize one of the RAM slots. The RAM sticks are fine, I get 16GB of RAM with either stick A or stick B in slot 1. I get a failure to boot with either stick A or stick B in slot 2. It's slot 2 that is fucked but slot 2 only became fucked when I messed with the processor so my belief is that slot 2 is probably fine and it's the processor that is fucked. Either way it's annoying me when my computer freezes for 60s while I try to run OBS. My options, as I see it, are 1) New processor. Either the same as I have or a spicier one if a spicier one that is compatible with my PC exists. 2) 32GB RAM stick. Given slot 1 works fine and my PC worked fine with 2x16 I could just buy a 32GB and stick it in slot 1. 3) Take my PC to a professional and have them try to unfuck it. My worries with this is that professionals charge a fair bit hourly and there's not really any guarantee that they could unfuck whatever I broke. Suggestions? Sadly i don't think i can help you with that problem. But i think you may have done something really wrong when applying thermal paste. Generally speaking, you don't really need to remove the CPU to do that. Thermal paste goes on top of the CPU, then the cooler presses onto that. At no point in this procedure should you need to reseat the CPU in a way that might let pins get misaligned. | ||
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KwarK
United States43952 Posts
Is there a compatibility tool for finding a mobo that’ll work? | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20326 Posts
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