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United Kingdom20323 Posts
i5 4670k+z87+7790 is pretty terrible setup, just because 7790 is low end card, not really the mid-higher end that most people would want for gaming, even on that budget.
If you build your own, you could have a case you wanted, you could pick motherboard, RAM, PSU instead of having random whatever-was-cheapest sold to people who don't know better, as well as pick out a much better GPU, or at the very least, re-arrange costs to suit you
It's a quite bad idea to ask how much it costs to build a bad build
If you want a decent one, that's what this thread is here for
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On February 01 2014 03:05 Incognoto wrote:
A4 5600/A55 motherboard/HDD/CX430 or something like it/OS 7
That's about € 50 + 50 + 60 + 40 + 100 which is about €300. No optical drive? If optical drive, then add €20. This is the rig I built my parents and it's hooked up to the TV and they're quite happy with it. Much music, all movies on it. As well as it being an actual computer. Throw everything into a budget case.
Edit: fuck me forgot ram. 4 Gb of RAM should be more than enough for this rig.
Thanks for your answer. So something like this? https://www.mindfactory.de/shopping_cart.php/basket_action/load_basket_extern/id/e35f862202892c75c21af0f3feceb06946f52ab088b13189eea
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Cyro, Ropid and Incohnoto - thank you all very much for your advice!
Thank you for pointing out my error with the HD lol!
I will take a look at those graphics cards and do some more research as I think I need to know more generally - good to know that it's more complex than simply bigger numbers are better Cyro!
I'm fairly confident in my build otherwise (sans laptop HD), I'll have a chat to a friend that has some knowledge too and will hopefully go ahead soon!
Oh, and cheers to for the RAM recommendation, very helpful.
Thank you all!
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that looks about right. the CPU is overkill if you're just playing movies though. A8s are quad core APUs, if you're just watching movies or playing music then a dual core A4 APU will do, for a much lesser price. You'd go from €77 to €40-45.
otherwise check around with others, especially ropid as he might know german prices better and stuff, but it should be fine.
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Hello, long-time lurker, first-time poster. I'm helping a friend of mine put together his first PC. He's not a gamer, so with that in mind hopefully it's okay to ask here for a build recommendation. Here's the relevant information:
What is your budget?
$500 CAD
What is your monitor's native resolution?
1920x1080
What games do you intend to play on this computer? What settings?
None.
What do you intend to use the computer for besides gaming?
Basic functions (MS Office, internet browsing, etc.)
Do you intend to overclock?
No.
Do you intend to do SLI / Crossfire?
No.
Do you need an operating system?
Yes, Windows 8 64-bit OEM.
Do you need a monitor or any other peripherals and is this part of your budget?
No.
If you have any requirements or brand preferences, please specify.
He would prefer to have a micro ATX case, as well as an internal wireless card.
What country will you be buying your parts in?
Canada.
If you have any retailer preferences, please specify.
He has no personal preferences, but I personally like Memory Express.com for its price matching, as well as Newegg.ca.
From talking to him it sounds like he may in the future decide to throw in a discrete GPU. Can a discrete card fit into a micro ATX case? If not, then it might be best to go with an ATX case.
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Depends on the case. You can fit high-end discrete cards in many miniITX cases. The only microATX cases that wouldn't fit a discrete card of any kind would be some very specialized slim or nonstandard small form factor.
In that price range for a nongaming system that needs an OS and hard drive, prices are usually better on systems from the likes of Dell, Lenovo, etc. When you need to pay around $100 for OS, piece by piece the prices don't add up very well.
Also, a discrete HD 7750 would be a lot different than say a R9 290X. Even if a higher-end card fits, it might not necessarily be a good idea thermally.
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Thanks for the input. I know that if he did decide to get a discrete card in the future it would not be a high-end one. I don't see him doing anything crazy like Battlefield 4 or the likes.
I'll take a look on Dell, Cyberpower, and Lenovo's websites and see if I can find good prebuilt that has what he's looking for.
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I use http://pcpartpicker.com to input some of the computer builds in the first page of this thread. The cost is more expensive than building on with roughly simular parts from ibuypower / cyberpower.
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United Kingdom20323 Posts
On February 01 2014 07:42 rei wrote:I use http://pcpartpicker.com to input some of the computer builds in the first page of this thread. The cost is more expensive than building on with roughly simular parts from ibuypower / cyberpower.
That's because prices change on a day to day or week to week basis and it's pointless to change builds every day, considering any personal needs can be met more specifically with forum posts
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Someone was saying on overclock.net that one of the prebuilt websites is running some massive super bowl discount. Presumably they have too much stock?
After checking: it's ok. Looks like they're trying to unload a bunch of stuff at essentially cost.
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United Kingdom20323 Posts
massive super bowl discount
you god damn americans making stuff up to throw sales all the time
is there any other holiday i should know about? 
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Sometimes you're like... man, these prices ain't too shabby.
Then you need to spend $70 on an upgrade to get a respectable power supply or something. But that seems to be in the past. On Cyberpower now I'm seeing Corsair options under TX and EVGA Bronze / Corsair CX, so it starts from the reputable budget stuff.
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Oh, I'd still build myself if I was in the market. It's just not as bad as it usually is.
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Hey guys.
R9 270 and 270x. Should I just get a good 270 and then overclock if needed?
Because its currently $220 (270) vs $280 (270x). #worthit?
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I would say the 270 is better value than the 270X.
The only difference between both cards is the amount of power you can put in them. Otherwise, everything else in terms of architecture is exactly the same: VRAM, memory width, texture units, ROPs, etc.
At stock, the 270X is clocked faster, though this can be easily circumvented by overclocking the 270 yourself, as you said.
Overall, the 270X will overclock "higher" because you can step up the voltage that much more. I don't think so. It would be interesting to see the difference in overclock performance between the 270X and the 270, I don't think it's enough to justify the extra price however.
I would recommend the 270 with a good cooler. A good cooler gives you headroom for overclocking. The companies with the best coolers would be Gigabyte's Windforce, ASUS's DCUII, MSI's Twin Frozr.
Not sure about Sapphire cards, their Tri-X cooler has the reputation of being one of the the best coolers (if not the best) you can find for high end cards like 290/290X/280X. You won't find one on a 270 though, they probably have Dual-X which are all right.
Edit: Yeah, all things considered, I doubt you'd get over 100 extra MHz overclocking a 270X over a 270 and that amount of clock speed probably isn't worth $60. As Cyro said earlier in this thread, clock speed is nice but it isn't the most important aspect of a GPU, the architecture is. As the 270 and 270X have the exact same architechture, I'd say go with the 270 and use that extra $60 for something else. Just get a good cooler.
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What is your budget?
$1200-$1400
What is your monitor's native resolution?
1920x1080
What games do you intend to play on this computer? What settings?
Mostly WoW, Skyrim Online, EvE, and other upcoming MMORPGs. Oh, and of course...SC2!!! I don't need max settings, just high. I'd rather have clean FPS with a better CPU than prettier graphics with a high end GPU. And, I would like to stream games at a reasonable frame rate and video quality. Stream is not that important but I would love to have this option without it hindering performance in game.
What do you intend to use the computer for besides gaming?
Only gaming.
Do you intend to overclock?
Nope.
Do you intend to do SLI / Crossfire?
If possible and if it is better, sure!
Do you need an operating system?
Nope.
Do you need a monitor or any other peripherals and is this part of your budget?
Nope.
If you have any requirements or brand preferences, please specify.
Intel and Nvidia.
What country will you be buying your parts in?
The United States of Newegg
What I picked out so far:
+ Show Spoiler +
I've been here before and I got really good tips and advice last time, so I am here again asking for help. I trust your input so you can just disregard what I found and suggest what you feel is better. Things like the case, I do not care if it is an ugly cheap box, so I would like to save money on things like that. But I am hoping to build a computer does not suffer from CPU issues and frame rate drops. I know that it is impossible to run SC2 on max settings and not see FPS drops in 4v4 or max 200/200 battles...but I want to get as close to that as possible. To stream that kind of sc2 content would be magical though. I feel like SC2 is the ultimate CPU test.
Thank you.
edit:
I really like http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-video-card-03gp42784kr and http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646i54670k. I think these will be my two main parts. However, I want to know what you guys think about getting a much cheaper GPU and go for a even better CPU? Or does the build need to be balanced? It's just that I've had an experience where I bought a super GPU and a cheaper CPU, my graphics looked great but I had FPS issues. So I am thinking about getting a bit lower end GPU in favor of a super CPU. Or does it not work like this? Sorry for so many questions!
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It does, but you won't ever need it. Go for 550W at most as you can't use more than one graphics card. The 750W has more cables for a second graphics card and that might make it annoying. Also, OCZ went bankrupt, you know, no warranty anymore, I think? The SSD part of OCZ got reintegrated into Toshiba.
I think you mostly have to check for the PSU being able to provide about 400W on 12V, and you'll be fine. Other than that, it's smarter to use the money to buy a PSU with increased efficiency instead of something with more Watts. If the Watts the PSU for 12V are not mentioned anywhere, you can get that number by looking at its label (Google Image Search), and multiplying the Amps mentioned for 12V by 12, so for example 12V * 34A = 408W.
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I'm porting it over from other computer, just wondering if i have to purchase another PSU.
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No, you probably don't. Looking at pictures, I'm guessing the case will have a lot of empty room where you will be able to stuff the cables into.
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EPT
