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On December 16 2013 02:43 Harajuku wrote: Alright, thanks for the replies so far, I'll probably go with that then. One more question though: Would it be wise to invest in a slightly more costly motherboard, like a H87 instead of H81, for eventual upgrades in the future? The only reason you want an h87 is if you want things like extra (or any USB 3.0), which is good in that it's tater, bt IMO not worth the extra money (was at least $20 more for me). Othe than that, no. You're doing a performance for price rig, in my opinion h81 represents the ideal price for performance unless you are overclocking (which you aren't unless you get a 4670k, which is awesome, but more expensive not to mention the additional fans for oc). The only other feature to consider is being able to crossfire / sli, and that is significantly more than your budget calls for. If you want future proofing the way to go is a 4670k with a z87, which will set you back a couple hundred more than your current price, h87 probably doesn't offer you anything hat you actually want to pay more for
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On December 16 2013 09:55 IMKR wrote:Show nested quote +On December 16 2013 09:28 iTzSnypah wrote:On December 16 2013 08:57 IMKR wrote: my motherboard is a H81 p33, im not sure how much expansion slot it has, but i think its limited.
Wait what?! Who told you to get that board? I made a post a while ago comparing all the H81 boards (that were available at the time) with the conclusion that the ASRock H81M was the best value (~$60)(ALC 898, 5fan headers, USB3 header, better Networking) and the ASRock H81M-HDS was the cheapest you would want to buy (~$52)(USB3 Header). Name thee so I can shame shame shame them. i got that board for $28. due to promos/sales and MIR EDIT: but for future reference, where is that post you made? Don't feel bad, i got the same board at the same price. For my situation the extra $30 savings were far more relevant than USB 3.0.
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On December 16 2013 10:25 Dgiese wrote:Show nested quote +On December 16 2013 09:55 IMKR wrote:On December 16 2013 09:28 iTzSnypah wrote:On December 16 2013 08:57 IMKR wrote: my motherboard is a H81 p33, im not sure how much expansion slot it has, but i think its limited.
Wait what?! Who told you to get that board? I made a post a while ago comparing all the H81 boards (that were available at the time) with the conclusion that the ASRock H81M was the best value (~$60)(ALC 898, 5fan headers, USB3 header, better Networking) and the ASRock H81M-HDS was the cheapest you would want to buy (~$52)(USB3 Header). Name thee so I can shame shame shame them. i got that board for $28. due to promos/sales and MIR EDIT: but for future reference, where is that post you made? Don't feel bad, i got the same board at the same price. For my situation the extra $30 savings were far more relevant than USB 3.0.
naw i dont feed bad, I was able to save alot of money on this build this is the spread sheet + Show Spoiler +
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On December 16 2013 09:55 IMKR wrote:Show nested quote +On December 16 2013 09:28 iTzSnypah wrote:On December 16 2013 08:57 IMKR wrote: my motherboard is a H81 p33, im not sure how much expansion slot it has, but i think its limited.
Wait what?! Who told you to get that board? I made a post a while ago comparing all the H81 boards (that were available at the time) with the conclusion that the ASRock H81M was the best value (~$60)(ALC 898, 5fan headers, USB3 header, better Networking) and the ASRock H81M-HDS was the cheapest you would want to buy (~$52)(USB3 Header). Name thee so I can shame shame shame them. i got that board for $28. due to promos/sales and MIR EDIT: but for future reference, where is that post you made?
It's short and sweet.
On September 16 2013 09:11 iTzSnypah wrote: On another note the best H81 board by far (excluding the mITX ones) is the ASRock H81M. It and the ASRock H81M-HDS are the only H81 boards that have a USB3.0 header. The H81M has the most fan headers at 5 (2xCPU, 2xCase (controllable?), 1x3pin) while also having the Best audio codex (892) and I believe the best networking of the H81 selection (qualcomm atheros).
On side note of that; the only difference between the H81M-DGS and H81M-HDS is $2 and a USB3.0 Header.
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Hey so I am in need of desktop computer here in Thailand, should I use High end gamer sample provided or I can do something better that suits my needs more, heres template with my answers
What is your budget? 1000$ +/- 200$ (I can go even higher if its justified)
What is your monitor's native resolution? I dont have one where I currently am but in a year when I get back to my country I have 30inch samsung thats using 2560x1600 or something like that, Here I would like to use something smaller like 24inch or whatever is best nowadays.
What games do you intend to play on this computer? What settings? My hardcore gaming Days are over :D but I still enjoy bunch of games, might play rts like sc2, mmorps like wow, fps like counter strike or something else, I prefer high settings but performance is priority for me.
What do you intend to use the computer for besides gaming? My Job, I am poker player and I need fast working ssd because I work on big databases.
Do you intend to overclock? If its easy and increases performance of my machine without much risk, sure why not,)
Do you intend to do SLI / Crossfire? No idea tbh, I dont think I need to and my budget might not allow this;)
Do you need an operating system? Yes I have been working on windows 7 and was quite satisfied but if you have better recommendation please tell
Do you need a monitor or any other peripherals and is this part of your budget? Yes I need monitor, thats fast, good for gaming and movies;) it was not part of my previously mentioned budget, I also need a keyboard, I have been using a great brown switch filco mechanical keyboard but I left it back in europe, I dont wanna pay as much and not sure about availability of these in Asia, something standart and less expensive will do the trick.
If you have any requirements or brand preferences, please specify. No, I am not as skilled wizard as you guys are in computer hardware and what matters to me is just best working combination not brands, maybe after this my taste will get developed 
What country will you be buying your parts in? I am in Thailand, Phuket.
If you have any retailer preferences, please specify. have been recommended this site http://www.invadeit.co.th/basket/#prods_footer doesnt look super cheap but at least reliable, if you have any idea on how I can save some money and not go through too much additional trouble let me know
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Mah, $28 for a motherboard is a nice deal no matter which way you look at it. I guess the USB port thing does kind of suck though.
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On December 16 2013 15:12 Incognoto wrote: Mah, $28 for a motherboard is a nice deal no matter which way you look at it. I guess the USB port thing does kind of suck though.
i guess it wont really effect me. i just wont use the front panel usb 3.0. and just use my laptop for those purpose if i need a usb port.
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I hate it when I load TL.net and look at subscriptions to see very few new posts in this thread. q_q Discussion time!
Hey Synpah I think you mentioned in a post of yours a while ago that you thought 9 blades was better than 7 blades on a fan. Care to elaborate?
I have another slightly nagging question in my mind. Imagine that we have 2 GPUs in Crossfire/SLI. Everything is air cooled. Now, the way GPUs are generally laid out is one on top of the other. So, we can assume that one card will probably be dumping heat on the second one. Best remedy to this is a large amount of airflow throughout the case, correct? There's no other fancy solution to this other than good airflow (disregarding water cooling obviously)?
So what's the best way to get a large amount of airflow in a case? I'm guessing having as many intake fans as output fans is good, for neutral pressure that is.
Am I correct in saying that the larger the fan (120mm vs 90mm for example), the more air it displaces at a higher RPM? So if we're going for low sound levels, we want larger fans turning slowly.
Is having 4 case fans (2 for intake, 2 for output) much better than 2 case fans? Or just slightly better? Or barely better?
Been reading some oc.net threads and some shit is gibberish. Let's talk about overclocking a Haswell CPU. I understand what core voltage is. That's the voltage you want to gradually go up to get stability at higher frequencies. What the hell is "Ring Bus" or "Uncore" ? I really though overclocking only touched one voltage parameter. + Show Spoiler +About Ring Bus aka Uncore aka Cache Ratio Tweaking: The naming used differs between motherboard manufacturers. Keep in mind that Uncore is the same as Ring Bus, and is sometimes known as 'cache ratio'. Some boards have 'minimum' and 'maximum' cache ratio. Just set them to the same. Obviously, 'cache voltage' is 'ring bus voltage' or 'uncore voltage'. For ring bus voltage, 1.2 is considered pretty safe. But read the voltages others used in my chart first! Ring bus takes less voltage, don't just replicate it as if it were core clock. You are going to need to raise ring bus voltage if you plan on overclocking the ring bus significantly. If your ring bus is manually set to the default value, meaning it's not overclocked for sure, leave it at auto is typically fine. Try not to exceed 1.35v. I try to keep it at 1.3v or under personally. If you do not set ring bus to stock multiplier manually, some motherboards will try to overclock it on its own, which might not only crash your system, it could also damage your CPU because the dumb motherboard is setting an unsafe voltage!
Last question. How do you make "overclock" your RAM? For example taking 1600 MHz RAM @ 1.5v and making it run faster by making it run at 1.65v. Is it as simple as just going into the BIOS and upping the voltage? Also, does "overclocked" RAM go from 1600 to 1866 to 2133 and so on, or does it run in between those frequencies?
Hf answering
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About 7 vs 9 blades, there's this review (look at the second graph on that page): http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/120mm_and_140mm_fan_comparison,21.html
There seem to be no difference between 7 and 9 blades. There are equally good and bad fans with both designs.
Your question about intake fans and 2 vs. 4 fans, what happens is that there's also a pressure specification to the fans, not only how much air they will move. That spec about total air moved is only theoretical. If there's something in the way, the pressure spec comes into play. With 2 intake and 2 exhaust fans (compared to only 2 intake), the pressure of each 1 intake plus 1 exhaust will get added. How much this helps depends on the case, what kind of fan grills it has, if there's a door and dust filter and things like that.
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On December 16 2013 12:40 napalmion wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Hey so I am in need of desktop computer here in Thailand, should I use High end gamer sample provided or I can do something better that suits my needs more, heres template with my answers What is your budget?1000$ +/- 200$ (I can go even higher if its justified) What is your monitor's native resolution?I dont have one where I currently am but in a year when I get back to my country I have 30inch samsung thats using 2560x1600 or something like that, Here I would like to use something smaller like 24inch or whatever is best nowadays. What games do you intend to play on this computer? What settings?My hardcore gaming Days are over :D but I still enjoy bunch of games, might play rts like sc2, mmorps like wow, fps like counter strike or something else, I prefer high settings but performance is priority for me. What do you intend to use the computer for besides gaming?My Job, I am poker player and I need fast working ssd because I work on big databases. Do you intend to overclock?If its easy and increases performance of my machine without much risk, sure why not,) Do you intend to do SLI / Crossfire?No idea tbh, I dont think I need to and my budget might not allow this;) Do you need an operating system?Yes I have been working on windows 7 and was quite satisfied but if you have better recommendation please tell Do you need a monitor or any other peripherals and is this part of your budget?Yes I need monitor, thats fast, good for gaming and movies;) it was not part of my previously mentioned budget, I also need a keyboard, I have been using a great brown switch filco mechanical keyboard but I left it back in europe, I dont wanna pay as much and not sure about availability of these in Asia, something standart and less expensive will do the trick. If you have any requirements or brand preferences, please specify.No, I am not as skilled wizard as you guys are in computer hardware and what matters to me is just best working combination not brands, maybe after this my taste will get developed What country will you be buying your parts in?I am in Thailand, Phuket. If you have any retailer preferences, please specify.have been recommended this site http://www.invadeit.co.th/basket/#prods_footerdoesnt look super cheap but at least reliable, if you have any idea on how I can save some money and not go through too much additional trouble let me know  Core i5-4570 - ฿6690 http://www.invadeit.co.th/product/cpus-processors/intel/core-i5-4570-processor-6m-cache-up-to-3-20-ghz-haswell-bx80646i54570-p015628/
G.Skill 2 x 4GB 1600 MHz - ฿2900 http://www.invadeit.co.th/product/memory/g-skill/8gb-2x4gb-ddr3-1600mhz-non-ecc-dimm-xmp-sniper-f3-12800cl9d-8gbsr2-p009364/
Asus B85M-G (don't know if you also may need a larger amount of memory for those databases or something else so this is the cheapest with four RAM slots) - ฿3050 http://www.invadeit.co.th/product/motherboards/asus/b85m-g-socket-lga1150-b85-4-x-ddr3-4-x-sata-6gb-s-2-x-sata-3gb-s-micro-atx-p015684/
MSI R9 280X (consider saving money on 270X if not playing the most demanding games) - ฿11490 http://www.invadeit.co.th/product/video-cards/msi/radeon-r9-280x-gaming-3g-twin-frozr-iv-p017281/
Samsung 840 EVO 250GB (if you need extra storage, get a larger one or a mechanical hard drive and SATA cable) - ฿6350 http://www.invadeit.co.th/product/solid-state-drives-ssd/samsung/250gb-2-5inch-ssd-840-evo-series-mz-7te250bw-p016948/
LG DVD burner - ฿520 http://www.invadeit.co.th/product/cd-dvd-burners/lg-electronics/gh24ns-supermulti-24x-dvd-rw-sata-drive-bulk-p006425/
NZXT Hale82 650W (nothing really worthwhile that's cheaper) - ฿2650 http://www.invadeit.co.th/product/power-supplies/nzxt/hale82-650w-modular-power-supply-80-plus-bronze-p014729/
Corsair Carbide 200R - ฿1870 http://www.invadeit.co.th/product/computer-cases/corsair/carbide-series-air-200r-compact-atx-case-fits-atx-cc-9011023-ww-p015966/
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edit: added more ~_~
On December 17 2013 01:30 Incognoto wrote:+ Show Spoiler [cooling] +I have another slightly nagging question in my mind. Imagine that we have 2 GPUs in Crossfire/SLI. Everything is air cooled. Now, the way GPUs are generally laid out is one on top of the other. So, we can assume that one card will probably be dumping heat on the second one. Best remedy to this is a large amount of airflow throughout the case, correct? There's no other fancy solution to this other than good airflow (disregarding water cooling obviously)?
So what's the best way to get a large amount of airflow in a case? I'm guessing having as many intake fans as output fans is good, for neutral pressure that is.
Am I correct in saying that the larger the fan (120mm vs 90mm for example), the more air it displaces at a higher RPM? So if we're going for low sound levels, we want larger fans turning slowly.
Is having 4 case fans (2 for intake, 2 for output) much better than 2 case fans? Or just slightly better? Or barely better + Show Spoiler [stuff] +Yes, two or more non-piddling graphics cards both working hard is how you roast your computer. You generally want wide video card spacing (many slots in between) and/or blower coolers that exhaust much of the hot air outside the case. Or water cooling. Yes, there's no magic solutions.
One of the problems with SLI and Crossfire is the noise levels, yeah. And temps. And power draw. Not to mention microstuttering. And driver support. This is why you avoid it when possible.
As for airflow, it depends on the case, layout, components you have, what noise and cooling you're targeting, how much you mind cleaning the internals of dust (which gets into heatsinks and reduces performance, so high-airflow setups being better are talking about clean-state conditions), etc. Neutral pressure isn't necessarily the best for what you need. Also, are you assuming equivalent fans on intake and exhaust? For neutral pressure you may need more intake than exhaust if the intake is fighting against doors, drive cages, filters, etc. And some cases are full of holes and will just allow intake from fans to exit without cooling anything.
A few degrees doesn't really matter much. I'd rather use dust filters and/or as few fans as I can get away with to do the job.
It depends on the fan design, but larger sizes (length/width as well as thickness) usually have higher airflow at equivalent rpm. As for the sound produced, that depends a whole lot on the motor / bearing and blade design and where you're sticking it, in addition to the rpm.
Generally four fans is slightly better than two, but that really depends on layout and other factors. Take the classic Antec 300 as an example. It comes with 120mm back exhaust and 140mm top exhaust. There are two 120mm intake positions that are unfilled. Over the years, people have reported adding two 120mm fans as intake and seen most temperatures drop say three degrees (maybe more for drives).
On December 17 2013 01:30 Incognoto wrote:+ Show Spoiler [voltages, overclocking] +Been reading some oc.net threads and some shit is gibberish. Let's talk about overclocking a Haswell CPU. I understand what core voltage is. That's the voltage you want to gradually go up to get stability at higher frequencies. What the hell is "Ring Bus" or "Uncore" ? I really though overclocking only touched one voltage parameter. + Show Spoiler +About Ring Bus aka Uncore aka Cache Ratio Tweaking: The naming used differs between motherboard manufacturers. Keep in mind that Uncore is the same as Ring Bus, and is sometimes known as 'cache ratio'. Some boards have 'minimum' and 'maximum' cache ratio. Just set them to the same. Obviously, 'cache voltage' is 'ring bus voltage' or 'uncore voltage'. For ring bus voltage, 1.2 is considered pretty safe. But read the voltages others used in my chart first! Ring bus takes less voltage, don't just replicate it as if it were core clock. You are going to need to raise ring bus voltage if you plan on overclocking the ring bus significantly. If your ring bus is manually set to the default value, meaning it's not overclocked for sure, leave it at auto is typically fine. Try not to exceed 1.35v. I try to keep it at 1.3v or under personally. If you do not set ring bus to stock multiplier manually, some motherboards will try to overclock it on its own, which might not only crash your system, it could also damage your CPU because the dumb motherboard is setting an unsafe voltage! Last question. How do you make "overclock" your RAM? For example taking 1600 MHz RAM @ 1.5v and making it run faster by making it run at 1.65v. Is it as simple as just going into the BIOS and upping the voltage? Also, does "overclocked" RAM go from 1600 to 1866 to 2133 and so on, or does it run in between those frequencies? + Show Spoiler [longer than intended but still shallow] +A ring bus (bus being a communications system / lines that transfers data from one component in a board or processor to another; ring being the topology of the network where each node is connected only two its two neighbors and the whole thing loops around so it's a ring) is used in modern Intel laptop / desktop / server CPUs to communicate between the CPU cores, graphics, L3 cache, and system agent. Different stops along the ring can communicate with each other by passing data to their neighbor, who relays it over, who relays it over, etc., until it gets there. It's fairly scalable in terms of design.
The uncore used to be an Intel-specific term for what they called all the stuff in the processor that isn't in the CPU cores proper (or integrated graphics I think). So "un"core. Presumably this is some really dumb yet descriptive name some engineer(s) came up with. In more recent years, they've called it the system agent. This includes the memory controller, L3 cache, different communications interfaces to the rest of the system, power controller, etc. In other words, the parts doing the dirty work behind the scenes.
edit: see below. system agent refers to less of the stuff. also, mobo manufacturers sometimes reuse old names, which is confusing
Modern CPUs have multiple voltages fed to them. The core voltage is the most important one, and that's what you're thinking of. For basic overclocking, you just need to adjust core voltage as needed. More advanced overclocks and optimal tunings may require altering the other voltages as well.
I don't have Haswell and forget which of these get the same voltage. I think maybe all the above get the same voltage and are controlled by the same setting?
You overclock your RAM by getting it to run at a clock rate that's over what the default setting is... same as anything else. Clock rate (frequency) is the main parameter of interest. There are also timings that influence data fetch / write latencies in conjunction with the operating frequency. And to make it stable, you may need to increase the voltage it gets.
The CPU and RAM frequencies are multiples of the DMICLK (previously BCLK). For non-Intel or older systems, you could adjust the BCLK significantly to increase frequencies in fine steps. On modern Intel systems, doing so breaks things quickly, so you're mostly just adjusting multipliers, which results in larger step sizes.
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United Kingdom20326 Posts
The uncore used to be an Intel-specific term for what they called all the stuff in the processor that isn't in the CPU cores proper (or integrated graphics I think). So "un"core. Presumably this is some really dumb yet descriptive name some engineer(s) came up with. In more recent years, they've called it the system agent.
There's a system agent voltage and an uncore voltage 
I think the uncore one is largely cache etc
>90% of effective haswell overclocking is just setting uncore to one safe value as well as like VRIN LLC and then playing with a few notches (mostly core voltage, core multiplier, vrin) because 50x core with 34x uncore is faster than 49x core with 49x uncore
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Hm, yeah.
It was Uncore with Nehalem and System Agent starting from Sandy Bridge, but they included L3 cache in Uncore but not in what they called the System Agent. The SA is less of the stuff (doesn't include cache). So if a mobo is calling something Uncore, it's the non-core, non-SA parts. So mostly cache I guess.
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@Myrmidon, ah well that answers quite a few questions. That guy went into very minute details apparently. So you have different parts in the CPU. You have the cores which do all the math. Then you have other things in your CPU that will "work with" the other parts of your rig (and it does so via the motherboard, I'm guessing): cache, graphics controller and whatnot. They also need their juice to work and so "uncore" or "ring bus" is the voltage for those other parts. Since overclocking a CPU is more about getting the cores to clock at higher frequencies then touching voltage for the "other parts" will probably obtain pretty minimal gains. However this has cleared some stuff up for me. Thank you very much.
@Ropid: That review is really, really detailed, thanks for the link. Oh and fans have their pressure as well. I've been looking for a good explanation: how's this?
If I understand correctly, static pressure is not something a fan "puts out", it's what it can handle. Static pressure increases as the air path is more obstructed, and air is overall harder to push. Ex: a fan just on in middle of nowhere has very little static pressure to worry about. A fan such as the blower in a furnace has tons of static pressure as it has to push air through all the vents. You can replace the blower in a furnace with a basic fan that has same CFM rating but if it's not strong it wont be able to deal with the static pressure so it wont actually be putting out the rated CFM. So things like blade design, motor etc affect how much static pressure the fan can handle.
In the case of computer fans if you have lot of intakes and not enough exhaust holes then there is more static pressure, thus less air flow. More powerful fans might be able to overcome this and force air more through all the little gaps and such.
At least that's my understanding of it.
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What is your current build?
Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD5 Intel i7-2600 Corsair Vengeance 1600MHz 16GB CL8 XFX Radeon HD 6970 2GB
What is your monitor's native resolution?
1920x1080 , 120hz
Why do you want to upgrade? What do you want to achieve with the upgrade?
I wasn't really looking to upgrade as my computer still runs the games I play to satisfaction. I got an offer however to sell my pc and get a newer (but is it better?) one. I want to be able to run the games coming in 2014 with atleast medium settings and not go below 60 fps.
Supposed Upgrade:
Gigabyte GA-H87M-D3H mATX Intel Core i5 4670K 3.4 GHz (Haswell) Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2x4GB) CL8 1600Mhz Gigabyte GeForce GTX 770 2GB
What is your budget?
I would pay 650 euro in trading my current pc for the suggested upgrade. Will it be worth the trade? Will I notice a difference in performance?
Edit: I know the above might be a really stupid question, but I'm pretty clueless when it comes to performance of systems. I just want more educated people advice me to not make a bad deal.
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On December 17 2013 01:30 Incognoto wrote: Hey Snypah I think you mentioned in a post of yours a while ago that you thought 9 blades was better than 7 blades on a fan. Care to elaborate?
On December 17 2013 01:49 Ropid wrote: There seem to be no difference between 7 and 9 blades. There are equally good and bad fans with both designs.
9blade fans usually have the blades closer to the cowl, which makes for better static pressure along the rpm range. It's a fan by fan comparison though. Most of my conclusions come off of Martinsliquidlab.org, which only has to do with fans blowing air though radiators.
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On December 17 2013 04:56 nkr wrote:+ Show Spoiler +What is your current build?
Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD5 Intel i7-2600 Corsair Vengeance 1600MHz 16GB CL8 XFX Radeon HD 6970 2GB
What is your monitor's native resolution?
1920x1080 , 120hz
Why do you want to upgrade? What do you want to achieve with the upgrade?
I wasn't really looking to upgrade as my computer still runs the games I play to satisfaction. I got an offer however to sell my pc and get a newer (but is it better?) one. I want to be able to run the games coming in 2014 with atleast medium settings and not go below 60 fps.
Supposed Upgrade:
Gigabyte GA-H87M-D3H mATX Intel Core i5 4670K 3.4 GHz (Haswell) Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2x4GB) CL8 1600Mhz Gigabyte GeForce GTX 770 2GB
What is your budget?
I would pay 650 euro in trading my current pc for the suggested upgrade. Will it be worth the trade? Will I notice a difference in performance?
Edit: I know the above might be a really stupid question, but I'm pretty clueless when it comes to performance of systems. I just want more educated people advice me to not make a bad deal. The CPU difference is mostly modest... actually not even better in some scenarios, especially if you go to BIOS and raise all the CPU multipliers by 4 for a 400 MHz overclock on the i7-2600 (can't be done with the supposed upgrade).
The updated GPU is more power efficient and maybe 50% faster. But it costs say 300 euros or a little less, never mind what the price difference between a HD 6970 and GTX 770 would be.
You'd be giving up RAM, but that would make pretty much zero difference for most people.
The updated motherboard would be a downgrade in some ways but a small upgrade in others in terms of features supported and ports. All in all, motherboards don't really make a performance difference so it's not relevant to what you're asking.
Looks like a pretty poor trade to me.
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On December 17 2013 06:19 Myrmidon wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On December 17 2013 04:56 nkr wrote:+ Show Spoiler +What is your current build?
Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD5 Intel i7-2600 Corsair Vengeance 1600MHz 16GB CL8 XFX Radeon HD 6970 2GB
What is your monitor's native resolution?
1920x1080 , 120hz
Why do you want to upgrade? What do you want to achieve with the upgrade?
I wasn't really looking to upgrade as my computer still runs the games I play to satisfaction. I got an offer however to sell my pc and get a newer (but is it better?) one. I want to be able to run the games coming in 2014 with atleast medium settings and not go below 60 fps.
Supposed Upgrade:
Gigabyte GA-H87M-D3H mATX Intel Core i5 4670K 3.4 GHz (Haswell) Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2x4GB) CL8 1600Mhz Gigabyte GeForce GTX 770 2GB
What is your budget?
I would pay 650 euro in trading my current pc for the suggested upgrade. Will it be worth the trade? Will I notice a difference in performance?
Edit: I know the above might be a really stupid question, but I'm pretty clueless when it comes to performance of systems. I just want more educated people advice me to not make a bad deal. The CPU difference is mostly modest... actually not even better in some scenarios, especially if you go to BIOS and raise all the CPU multipliers by 4 for a 400 MHz overclock on the i7-2600 (can't be done with the supposed upgrade). The updated GPU is more power efficient and maybe 50% faster. But it costs say 300 euros or a little less, never mind what the price difference between a HD 6970 and GTX 770 would be. You'd be giving up RAM, but that would make pretty much zero difference for most people. The updated motherboard would be a downgrade in some ways but a small upgrade in others in terms of features supported and ports. All in all, motherboards don't really make a performance difference so it's not relevant to what you're asking. Looks like a pretty poor trade to me.
Thank you for the quick response!  I have a 750W power supply in my current machine, would upgrading my gpu last me through 2014 and if so what would I go for if I'm looking to play on decent settings in 1080p?
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For most games with decent settings, most people might say HD 6970 is enough for a little while yet.
Also, I'm not really a fan of GPU upgrades improving performance by ~50% or less. I mean, that's significant, but is it enough to run out spend a lot of money on a new card rather than turn down AA a bit or remove some graphical shinies that are actually mostly distracting from seeing what's required for gameplay?
If the current performance is clearly not enough now for your standards, I'd say to wait a little bit for custom R9 290 designs to hit the market and maybe prices and availability to settle out. Availability of the R9 290 is kind of poor now, and the current models use a weak blower cooler that's very noisy and throttles performance. That is a significant step up from the GTX 770 but not incredibly so in price.
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Ok thanks for your advice. I will lay low for now. Great job with what you do here, it's part of what makes TL so special!
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