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On May 02 2016 23:11 SChlafmann wrote:Yep, I confirm that most European countries could get that high on direct download speed. I have a 100mbps connection in France, downloading at 12MB/s. Say hello to my 30s TV shows downloads. Also, French language is the sh*t. Byte = Octet in french, so no confusion possible with the B/b stuff.
The IT world borrowed that word from the french 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octet_(computing)
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For the most part it doesn't really matter where a server is geographically when it comes to downloading something. You've got a file that can be chunked into X parts that can be fully parallelized, so the server can send you as many pieces at a time as you can handle and the order doesn't matter. Sometimes pieces get lost in transit, but either the protocol or the software will acknowledge the failure and request the piece again. This kind of loss adds to the download time, but unless there's a lot of loss it won't be a big deal.
For things that require low latency (e.g. games) it becomes a much bigger deal. The further away you are the longer things take, plus you end up going through more and more routers. Thanks to shady ISP practices, bigger companies often have to strike deals with the ISPs to ensure their traffic moves correctly through the network, instead of getting bogged down taking longer/slower routes. Basically making sure it goes straight from them to you instead of taking the scenic route. The further away you get from the server, the less likely such an agreement is in place. There's also the issue of peering, which is mostly an additional money grab by ISPs. You can Google about this for companies like Riot Games or Netflix to get some more info about it.
In certain parts of the world, the connection from the internal country to the external world sucks. South Korea is a big example of this. Their trunk lines leaving their country are just really inadequate. Connecting to/from South Korea from elsewhere in the world will often have inflated pings, high packet loss, slow speeds, etc. as a result. Internally, their Internet is among the best in the world (I think it's second overall behind Japan).
One other thing to note is CDNs (Content Delivery Networks). These are most common with website resources. Basically you (a website) pays a CDN provider to mirror your content in a number of geographic areas. When someone accesses your website, the closest CDN is used to send the data. This helps avoid a lot of the aforementioned issues and also provides a layer of redundancy (failure tolerance) and load-balancing.
The most common issue with download speeds is that a lot of companies simply don't provide all that much bandwidth per user. You'll simply just not be able to max out, no matter how close you are.
On May 02 2016 20:08 evilfatsh1t wrote:
wait...so some people in other countries actually download things at 10mb/s that arent torrents?
ive hit 8mb/s in korea downloading from korean servers, but korea is also ranked 1 in the world for internet speed.
never knew you could get these speeds in other countries too
Sources like Steam and Microsoft provide very high download speeds. You can max out on those pretty commonly. I've had over 10MB/s with them.
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Monitor giving vertical kinda coloured stripes on startup after a brief no-signal message. Thinking its gpu ripd somehow? Im guessing i can make sure by trying on-board graphics, but how do i activate that over the gpu? Do i have to physically remove it?
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With default settings, the BIOS disables the integrated GPU if it sees a graphics card. Can you still read something on the monitor? If yes, go into the BIOS menus and search for that setting. Change it so that the integrated GPU is always enabled. You can then use both GPUs at the same time. There's also another setting about which GPU is the "first" one. That's where the BIOS will show its output at boot (Windows works without changing that).
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I'd also check that the cables are securely fastened with no bent pins. If you're using SLI, check the bridge (though that seems to typically manifest as red horizontal lines/tinting).
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Alright, I eventually figured it out once I excluded all the SetPoint and Widcomm stuff in google. It was the CSR Bluetooth Harmony garbage that probably installed with my speakers. Can't find any working GUI for the settings, so had to take the regedit route.
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Cambridge Silicon Radio\Harmony\Default
double click OSD
set value to 0
restart pc
+ Show Spoiler +Does anyone know which program causes this? It's basically "CAPS LOCK: ON" (or off) for caps/num/scroll lock. It shows up in the bottom right corner of the primary monitor. I have it disabled in SetPoint (and enabling it shows a big icon in the middle of the screen, not just the word). Hardware-wise I've got a Logitech g400 mouse, a Corsair k70 keyboard, and a Logitech g930 headset (with Logitech Gaming Software installed). ![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/CFx9ZUn.png) ![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/1ej2grC.png)
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Hello guyz, I have a quick question regarding audio :
Will a DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) improve my listening experience of my 320kpbs mp3?
This question is HTC 10 vs galaxy s7 related. Thanks for the help!
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Cascadia1754 Posts
Hard to answer question..
Listening experience is pretty subjective, and technically all computer audio systems are DACs (so anything with an audio jack will have a DAC).
I understand the HTC 10 has a fancy DAC they are marketing a bunch, but to really answer your I would just go try them. If you are gonna drop hundreds of dollars on something, you should at least tried what you are buying.
There are also so many things that go into audio quality... Audio format, bitrates, heaphones/speakers used, cables, amp.
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What from I've seen, it usually has a negligible effect.
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I know this is going to sound like a stupid question but please bear with me.
I want to clean my PC with a vacuum cleaner. I checked if it is safe or not but nearly everyone said do not do it at all because it could generate static electricity and burn some PC parts. My question is how the hell it generates static electricity on PC parts if machine itself is relatively away from PC by the length of the sucking stick which is pure plastic?
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There's something happening with the moving air and the plastic being "rubbed" by it.
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Okay. Now I feel like my IQ took a severe hit (If not a killing blow) and I completely forgot how static electricity works... Anyway, what is the best way to clean the dust of? I don't have air Compressor or leaf blower so those are out of the question and that is why I was looking for a solution and then the vacuum cleaner came to my mind.
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I use a brush (nothing special, just a random painter's brush). A brush can also produce static electricity. The case is grounded while you have the PSU connected to a power outlet and then it hopefully can't build up a strong charge.
You can get a can of compressed air for $5 or so. This works very well and can get everything out of heat-sinks.
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I have been vacuuming my computers for literally the past twenty years. That's 3-4 different computers. None of them have ever failed or had any performance issues. Most of the old ones are still in use around my house.
I think people's fears are logical and scientific. However, experience has proven to me that there's no harm.
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I too use a painter brush to clean it but it takes a lot of time and kinda tiring process. I'm trying to find an alternative for it.
On May 28 2016 01:49 Durak wrote:
I have been vacuuming my computers for literally the past twenty years. That's 3-4 different computers. None of them have ever failed or had any performance issues. Most of the old ones are still in use around my house.
I think people's fears are logical and scientific. However, experience has proven to me that there's no harm.
Do you make the sucking stick touch the inner components or leave like 1 - 2 inches space between the vacuum and the components?
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On May 28 2016 02:37 Wrath wrote:Show nested quote +On May 28 2016 01:49 Durak wrote:
I have been vacuuming my computers for literally the past twenty years. That's 3-4 different computers. None of them have ever failed or had any performance issues. Most of the old ones are still in use around my house.
I think people's fears are logical and scientific. However, experience has proven to me that there's no harm. Do you make the sucking stick touch the inner components or leave like 1 - 2 inches space between the vacuum and the components?
I put it directly on everything. I don't even just mean the plastic extender rod. I mean, I put the metal end of my hose from my central vacuuming system directly on to components. I used to be concerned about it but I got more aggressive over the years.
I even put my vacuum on my fans. So that they spin super fast. (Which I believe you're also not supposed to do to fans) Nothing seems to effect my computers. :p
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I think you're just lucky.
My preferred method is to take it out on the balcony and go to town with compressed air.
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On May 28 2016 04:21 Craton wrote:
I think you're just lucky.
My preferred method is to take it out on the balcony and go to town with compressed air.
Yeah, it could just be luck. But I don't see any reason for me to stop until it burns me. . Compressed air is smarter and likely works better so I still recommend that for other people.
I have a networking question: can I connect multiple computers through the same port on my router without messing up any routing/packets?
As in, I would plug a switch or hub into one port on my router and then plug the two computers into different ports on the switch or hub. Would the router still be able to distinguish between the two computers (say, for port forwarding)?
I realise that switches and hubs have significant differences that I only sort of understand. + Show Spoiler +Though the following YouTube video helped me understand a lot better:
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I finally decided to take the plunge to upgrade to Windows 10.
I have to 2 reinstalls of Windows 7 of my computer, and I appended the new OS to the end of the HDD, and hence I have a Windows.old and windows.old.000 folder. If anyone has any experience, I don't know exactly how Windows 10 formats things, but I simply want to make sure I don't lose my old files there during an upgrade.
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Windows.old folders contain the windows, program files, and appdata folders that existed on the drive when you installed windows again without reformatting, allowing for a clean windows install without deleting files on the drive. Upgrade just upgrades the OS in place without moving files.
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EPT
