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On December 30 2014 06:52 Cyro wrote:Show nested quote +On December 30 2014 06:48 OuchyDathurts wrote:
I've had a G35 forever and ever, always worked fine, everything is peachy. When the first one died after a few years I replaced it with another one because I liked it. When the ear pads on the 2nd started falling apart I ordered new ear pads since it worked 100% perfectly otherwise.
I got a G502 mouse because my old mouse was dying. I love the mouse other than the LED color. However it came with a problem. I installed the logitech mouse software and it took it upon itself to update my G35 drivers as well. Who cares? Well, apparently there's a problem that's existed for years that logitech has never fixed. All drivers after X date completely fuck your sound up so you'll hear crackling, channels will drop out, random programs will get louder or quieter, it's pretty sweet! Since the two devices are packaged in the gaming software you're apparently just screwed.
My question is. Is there some sort of god tier way of essentially unpackaging those two devices? Can I somehow force my G35 to use an old ass driver and have my G502 use a newer driver and keep them separated or is that not really a thing? This sounds exactly like a situation on one of the threads here very recently (that ended up being related to a defect in the g35 that they were recalled for) IIRC
Rofl, so apparently I asked about it in another thread and completely forgot. My memory is horrific =P
I've just dealt with it for a month or so but it's been driving me absolutely insane recently. Trying to play Elite: Dangerous while listening to music and the music volume is all over the road, ugh.
Going to have to get ahold of logitech I guess
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What's the best way to clean my cloth mouse pad, just take a rag soaked in hot water to it? How do you guys do it?
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I just rub a damp cloth (wet with hot water then squeezed out) often. Many of them are machine washable if you have not cleaned for a while
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I've given it a couple rubdowns with a hot damp cloth since getting it but I'd really like to give it a full wash in the washing machine if it is able to go through. I've got the TL version of Razer Goliathus. Think it would be okay if I put it on a light wash cycle just by itself?
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I wouldn't wash it in the wash machine if its a mousepad like that. IMO the risk of ruining the colors of such a mousepad is not worth it. If it was a lesser mousepad I would though.
But then again, I never heard of putting your mousepad in a washing machine before.
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Ok, so I tried playing SC2 after a year or two again.
Everything ran smoothly on ultra, no lag, no frame drops, nothing. Then after the third game, all of a sudden my game freezes. I can still hear the sounds playing in the game, like supply blockage notice and so on but I get 0fps.
Task manager says the game takes up to 92% of my cpu when it freezes, which is weird obviously.
Anyone got an idea what could possibly cause the sudden problem?
i5 2500k
8GB ram
GTX570
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I want to set up a small local server (I am the only one using it) for my data mining and scientific computation purposes. What kind of Linux should I get? I am pretty amateur when it comes to Linux but if I can get it to install I should be able to figure out the rest.
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I've bought a new computer and want to transfer some files off of my old hard drive (which will not boot due to some kind of bad driver issues that aren't worth trying to resolve any more) so I'm looking to get a SATA to USB adapter. Do I need to know exactly which kind of SATA hard drive I had? Like would the adapter port potentially be different if I bought the wrong kind or are these SATA to USB adapters pretty much universal?
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I don't think there's anything special to be concerned about.
Any reason you can't just plug it into your new computer and grab the files off it that way (you don't need to boot from it)?
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On January 02 2015 01:48 Craton wrote:
I don't think there's anything special to be concerned about.
Any reason you can't just plug it into your new computer and grab the files off it that way (you don't need to boot from it)?
Not sure, everyone who I've asked about it has just recommended getting the adapter
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I mean I have a SATA to USB adapter myself, but it seems like overkill in your scenario. They're more useful when you're using e.g. a laptop that can't connect it otherwise.
In any event, SATA is backwards and forwards compatible so there's not really anything special going on with the adapters.
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On January 02 2015 05:04 Craton wrote:
I mean I have a SATA to USB adapter myself, but it seems like overkill in your scenario. They're more useful when you're either using e.g. a laptop that can't connect it otherwise.
In any event, SATA is backwards and forwards compatible so there's not really anything special going on with the adapters.
Thanks, I'll check if my new desktop has an extra slot before i chase down the adapter.
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On January 02 2015 05:56 imJealous wrote:Show nested quote +On January 02 2015 05:04 Craton wrote:
I mean I have a SATA to USB adapter myself, but it seems like overkill in your scenario. They're more useful when you're either using e.g. a laptop that can't connect it otherwise.
In any event, SATA is backwards and forwards compatible so there's not really anything special going on with the adapters. Thanks, I'll check if my new desktop has an extra slot before i chase down the adapter.
I don't know if they even make motherboards with less than 6 or so any more
edit: h81 (cheapest intel chipset) seems to have "only" 4, before additional sata controllers
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Also worth saying, if you don't plan to keep using the drive then you can just have it sitting in the case (i.e. not screwed into a slot) while using it. Just take care not to move it while you're transferring stuff (and obviously remove it when done).
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So, i have the hard drive plugged into my case now, but I can only access certain folders. Specifically, the most important stuff I'm trying to get back was all stored on my desktop, but I don't see the windows folders at all. Any idea how I could get at that stuff?
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Did I miss anything in this build? I'm trying to keep it around $1200 without OS so I dropped the board froma Z97-Pro to an open box Z97-A saving $60, and from a Corsair H105 CPU cooler to the half-the-cost Cooler Master air cooler.
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Hydraslik/saved/ydBxFT
+ Show Spoiler [parts+rationale] +case locked in: nzxt source 530
rationale: hard drive bay configuration supports extra long gfx cards, rear-panel ssd mount, good cable management options, only con is lack of included fans
board: ASUS Z97-A
rationale: in-OS overclocking simplicity for the slight bump I am going to give it, plus the monitoring tools asus has developed
CPU locked in: i5-4690k
rationale: some overclocking, not budget breaking, very close to 4790k single thread performance for $100 cheaper
CPU cooler: Cooler Master Hyper D92
rationale: air cooling, not enormous, cheap
Memory: GSKILL ripjaws 8gb kit
rationale: binned for 2400 mhz
GFX: gigabyte G1-gaming 4gb
rationale: go big or go home, will not bottleneck, plenty of cooling with 3 fans, no need to overclock
PSU: CX 500W
rationale: 500W plenty of power for everything, not going to SLI. TDP of system is ~340W. 68% of max supplied watts, good zone.
SSD: Crucial MX100 256gb
Rationale: cheap good cost/gb ssd for boot drive and commonly used programs. storing music/videos on a normal sata HDD
Extras: 4 cougar fans, 2 4-pin Y-connector fan things to sync up two sets of fans (2 stock fans on top linked, 1 cougar rear, 2 cougar front, 1 cougar bottom or on the angle mount if space demands it. trying to get good air flow.
If I can get the green light tonight I'm just going to go for it. This build has seen a ton of revisions and I've watched countless reviews on youtube. Special thanks for the help in the build resource thread!
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GFX: gigabyte G1-gaming 4gb
rationale: go big or go home, will not bottleneck, plenty of cooling with 3 fans, no need to overclock
Most of the point of paying extra for the G1 is to overclock. Three of the main features over the cheapest 970 cards are good VRM cooling, unrestrictive power limits and ability to use 1.25v - all three matter much less (or not at all) if you're just going to use out of the box frequency and voltage, even though the g1 comes at a pretty high base clock speed relative to some other 970's.
Rest of the stuff looks good, though the ~$146 for the case and additional fans that you chose is notably expensive (maybe with good reason, maybe not)
While airflow is a concern and good airflow is awesome, it's not difficult to keep a 4690k and/or a 970 cool at "meh" clocks. It's only a real factor if your airflow is particularly bad or if you're pushing overclocks - even then, it's not really a concern for a 970, as long as you have a good cooler on the GPU that has a sound profile that you don't particularly disagree with
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On January 02 2015 13:32 Cyro wrote:Show nested quote +GFX: gigabyte G1-gaming 4gb
rationale: go big or go home, will not bottleneck, plenty of cooling with 3 fans, no need to overclock The entire point of getting the G1 is to overclock. Two of the main features over the cheapest 970 cards are good VRM cooling and unrestrictive power limits and both matter much less if you're just going to use out of the box frequency and voltage, even though the g1 comes at a pretty high base clock speed. Who cares if you have a 280w or a 200w power limit when you're using 180w? It doesn't really matter~ Rest of the stuff looks good, though the ~$146 for the case and additional fans that you chose is notably expensive (maybe with good reason, maybe not)
I never actually looked into cases with more included cooling, TBH. I liked the design of the Source 530 a lot, added 4 aftermarket fans to increase airflow but if you have any recommendations regarding upgrading the case in such a way that I can reduce the overall price of aftermarket cooling + case total that would be most welcome!
And yeah, I will likely experiment with overclocking on the G1 a little bit but I'm not going to go all-out fine tuning it to its maximum until I find an application that's going to need it.
What were you thinking about in terms of case + cooling solution?
e: are you saying that 6 fans total is overkill? My setup is in a relatively cool area of the house right now, so the ambient is maybe 60-72F during winter and not a lot higher during the summer.
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There's not much (if anything, really) substantially cheaper that is as good, but your expenditure there rivals that of somebody who is an enthusiast overclocker/bencher or is using ~600w+ of system heat output (vs your probably.. 325w?)
it just doesn't matter that much as long as you have ok airflow (2 intakes and an exhaust at alright speeds without a huge amount of restriction is pretty much fine and better than most people have..) - unless you have particular cooling needs
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On January 02 2015 13:38 Cyro wrote:
There's not much substantially cheaper that rivals it, but your expenditure there rivals that of somebody who is an enthusiast overclocker/bencher or is using ~600w+ of system heat output (vs your probably.. 325w?)
I could cut 2 of the fans I suppose and save another $30 there. I definitely want to get two fans in the front. That and I save another few bucks on a second Y-connector, so maybe $35. That's an XBOX controller!
edit to your edit: Okay, I'll shave that off, then. Didn't even really think about it, but i've been watching a lot of Linus Tech Tips reviews and that guy is crazy about his airflow and quiet fans! I love you very much.
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EPT
