EPTSimple Questions Simple Answers - Page 516
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invisible.terran
United States280 Posts
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Cyro
United Kingdom20345 Posts
SSD HDD Would it be possible/beneficial for me to set up RAID? Maybe possible but i doubt beneficial. RAID works best with two very similar drives | ||
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Craton
United States17303 Posts
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zev318
Canada4306 Posts
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wptlzkwjd
Canada1240 Posts
On December 25 2014 10:34 invisible.terran wrote: Hey guys, complete noob about RAID here. I bought a SSD for laptop and replaced the optical drive with the original HDD. Would it be possible/beneficial for me to set up RAID? If you're talking about RAID 0, I would recommend just buying a larger capacity SSD rather than having 2 smaller ones. The speed increase for RAID 0 is pretty much negligible and unless those 1.5 seconds of faster boot time into Windows is the difference between life and death, you'll be much happier with the smaller chance of drive failure. Take it from somebody with 3 128GB SSDs in RAID 0. | ||
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Craton
United States17303 Posts
On December 25 2014 16:01 zev318 wrote: should i keep my laptop plugged in all the time (i think it is not good for the battery)? i am using a laptop kinda like a desktop only that i can take it with me when i need to (which is not that often). i know for my mom/sister's laptop, they can pop out the battery but i dont think mine can. I think the recommendation is to just let it run down occasionally (use it unplugged). For storage sake (unused for extended period) you want it around 50%. | ||
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d_runk
124 Posts
Optical Drive is busted so performing a clean install is questionable. The macbook is a mid 2007 core2duo, running the last version of Snow Leopard (10.6.8 v1.1) | ||
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Incognoto
France10239 Posts
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XenOmega
Canada2822 Posts
My internet speed is 30mbps (http://www.videotron.com/residential/internet/residential-internet) I just bought a range extender (Dlink N300 DAP-1320) to extend the signal to my basement. According the Microsoft Network, the signal strength is much more stronger (almost full bars vs my 2-3 bars without Dlink-range extension) However, when I run speed test - I get 31mbps with my wired computers. I get 13 mbps with my computer in my basement. Is that due to the fact that my N300 is too weak (as a range extender)? I bought the cheapest one at BestBuy (There were some Extender, in the price range of 60-70$ / AV500-1200). Thoughts? Stronger Extender? (Any recommendations) Try the powerline? http://www.amazon.ca/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG edit :This powerline seems to combine both http://www.ncix.com/detail/tp-link-tl-wpa4220kit-av500-300mbps-wifi-20-94290-1301.htm | ||
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scott31337
United States2979 Posts
If you can use an ethernet in the basement, powerline can be the way to go if your electrical lines are clean (no crossing grounds, etc.) So can a 100' Cat5E cable  | ||
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XenOmega
Canada2822 Posts
Right now, connection still isn't stable enough to my liking (Maybe I'll try to order some powerline and see). My parents are still having trouble listening to Chinese news from our living room (Signal too weak? Or maybe the website from China is too weak or too far...?). Speedtest in my living room says ardoun 8mbps. I don't understand how it can be lower than my basement (13mbps) O.o Is the Powerline extender worth it (the one with WIFI)? Or should I just go with regular powerline (I might need 3 total)? 2nd floor : Internet + Router + Computers for gaming. 1st floor : TV + Streaming basement : Computer At the moment, the DLINK extender is on the first floor. Near the door to my basement and near the living room (TV + Computer for streaming on TV). If I go with the Powerline (with wifi extender, the one from NCIX), I'll probably set it up in my living room. Hopefully, the extended signal from the powerline would be enough to reach my basement... | ||
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Craton
United States17303 Posts
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XenOmega
Canada2822 Posts
On December 27 2014 21:10 Craton wrote: Running cables would be more work, but it shouldn't be too expensive. Just buy a box of cable, some crimpers, and some RJ-45 terminators and make your own as needed. I believe they sell kits that come with all of those. Any idea where I can look up for price for these cables? What if I want to run cables to multiple room? | ||
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Craton
United States17303 Posts
$30 for 500ft of Cat5e. If you're gonna take the time to run the cable through the house, either use Cat5e or Cat6. http://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-Ethernet-Cable-500ft-Cat-5e/dp/B0092THNDW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1419752573&sr=8-4 You can grab one of these kits for $13.49 (100 terminators, a crimper, and a wire tester). http://www.amazon.com/Wild-us-Tester-Crimper-Connector-Network/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_img_y In theory that's enough terminators for 50 cables, but expect to waste a few learning how to terminate the cable properly (and you'll probably only need a dozen cables or less anyway). Terminating cables isn't very hard to learn and there are lots of resources that'll teach you tips and tricks. In my parent's house (like 10-15 years ago) we ran cable from the basement to the second floor. We basically picked an out of the way corner (behind a desk on two floors, in a closet on the third), cut a hole through the floor/ceiling and ran the cable as a straight drop. Covered the cable with one of those pieces of plastic that was similar to the color of the wall. Something kind of like this but not as wide and a little deeper: http://www.amazon.com/Legrand-CMK30-30-inch-Screen-Cover/dp/B0015EA3NO/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1419752908&sr=1-2 Can place a switch/wireless AP on each floor as needed. If you choose to do this, it's recommended to leave a "service loop" - that is, don't cut the cable to the smallest size you need, but rather leave an extra foot (or several) of cable. If something goes wrong (like the RJ-45 plug comes loose), you can just cut it off and crimp on a new one. | ||
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OsaX Nymloth
Poland3244 Posts
I have Razor Mako, by now they're quite old, but always worked ok. I have headphones plugged into that "pilot" thing (photo for reference: click) and they work fine. No problems here. Today I wanted to use speakers tho so I unplugged my headphones and to my surprise nothing happened. No sound. Checked cables, checked system, my audio card (Xonar DX) and nothing. I see "bars" moving when I play something in various applications, but there's no sound on my speakers. So system says everything works, I plug back headphones and they play just fine. So... busted? Any ideas? I find it weird, since the headphones are plugged into the speaker system anyway, they work, speakers don't. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20345 Posts
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OsaX Nymloth
Poland3244 Posts
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killerdog
Denmark6522 Posts
I'm looking at larger cards (says it supports up to 64gb, microsd) and there seems to be large variations in price range. Is there any real difference between the cheap and expensive microsd cards? Currently looking at the options on this site + Show Spoiler + http://www.proshop.dk/Products/ProductSearch.aspx?search=microsd (Set "produktgrupper" to "hukommelseskort & usbpen" and you'll only see the memory cards) And there seems to be a big difference in price between "lower" tier and "higher" tier 32 or 64gb cards. For a phone, will you notice any difference between using the cheapest and using the most expensive? (Are the read/write speeds important in smartphones, or are there other bottlenecks which make them irrelevant) and are cheaper ones less reliable or anything? | ||
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OuchyDathurts
United States4588 Posts
I got a G502 mouse because my old mouse was dying. I love the mouse other than the LED color. However it came with a problem. I installed the logitech mouse software and it took it upon itself to update my G35 drivers as well. Who cares? Well, apparently there's a problem that's existed for years that logitech has never fixed. All drivers after X date completely fuck your sound up so you'll hear crackling, channels will drop out, random programs will get louder or quieter, it's pretty sweet! Since the two devices are packaged in the gaming software you're apparently just screwed. My question is. Is there some sort of god tier way of essentially unpackaging those two devices? Can I somehow force my G35 to use an old ass driver and have my G502 use a newer driver and keep them separated or is that not really a thing? | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20345 Posts
On December 30 2014 06:48 OuchyDathurts wrote: I've had a G35 forever and ever, always worked fine, everything is peachy. When the first one died after a few years I replaced it with another one because I liked it. When the ear pads on the 2nd started falling apart I ordered new ear pads since it worked 100% perfectly otherwise. I got a G502 mouse because my old mouse was dying. I love the mouse other than the LED color. However it came with a problem. I installed the logitech mouse software and it took it upon itself to update my G35 drivers as well. Who cares? Well, apparently there's a problem that's existed for years that logitech has never fixed. All drivers after X date completely fuck your sound up so you'll hear crackling, channels will drop out, random programs will get louder or quieter, it's pretty sweet! Since the two devices are packaged in the gaming software you're apparently just screwed. My question is. Is there some sort of god tier way of essentially unpackaging those two devices? Can I somehow force my G35 to use an old ass driver and have my G502 use a newer driver and keep them separated or is that not really a thing? This sounds exactly like a situation on one of the threads here very recently (that ended up being related to a defect in the g35 that they were recalled for) IIRC | ||
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