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On June 11 2013 15:35 skyR wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On June 11 2013 14:54 Headlines wrote:+ Show Spoiler +I'm definitely sure my graphics card is dead. Right now, I'm interested in the GTX 650 Ti: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130910It got voted the best card in the $170 range from Tom's Hardware's May 2013 review. http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-graphics-card-review,3107-3.htmlI'm still hesitating from grabbing this card for a couple of reasons: 1) The 2 gb on the GTX 650 is a bit of an overkill. I remember reading that a player would only need a 2 gb graphics card if they're planning on playing with 2 monitors, which I don't ever plan on doing. Also, I heard the ram on the graphics card is really not important. Even Far Cry 3 recommends only 1 GB of ram. 2) I play multiplayer games on the lowest settings possible. My previous card, a Geforce GTX 470, handled Battlefield 3 very well on the lowest settings. I don't know what fps it ran the game, but I did not notice any lag during gameplay. Does this mean I should probably look into a Geforce 500 series graphics card? 3) Should I just pay a technician to fix my graphics card? They charge around $40 an hour around here. They probably won't be able to fix it anyway. 4) I have the PCAT exam around September (Pharmacy School entrance exam), and I'm also VERY excited for a game that's coming out around the same month (ROME 2!!!!!!). I'm thinking about rewarding myself for taking the exam by building a brand new gaming computer. And believe me, I think I'll probably spend around $2,000+ on the hardware parts. Let me know what you guys think. Thank you! Keep in mind suffixes play a huge role in defining computer parts. A GTX 650 Ti Boost is not the same as a GTX 650 or a GTX 650 Ti. Nvidia makes the GTX 650 Ti Boost have 2GB of VRAM. You don't have a say in this matter so I don't see how this is relevant to your purchasing decision. If what you mean to ask is whether this card is overkill for Far Cry 3 than the answer is no if you plan on playing on max settings at 1080p. You should not be looking at the GTX 500 series because the GTX 600 series is all around better. The only reason why you would purchase outdated hardware is if its price was attractive and you don't mind the extra power usage and not having the latest features. A technician likely won't be able to fix a GPU. Your typical technician at a computer store isn't skilled enough to do this and the cost probably isn't worth it. A $2000+ PC is highly unnecessary if you're only gaming at 1080p @ 60Hz and not doing anything other than gaming.
Thank you for your response and input, SkyR. I think my first reason was misunderstood, but it doesn't matter. I have had a wishlist on Newegg since last November, and it is already at $1,400 minus a video card. My parts are based off a youtuber I'm subscribed to (FrankieonPCin1080p), but I realize that his set-up is more than I would need, because he does a lot of video recording, editing, etc. and I do not plan on doing that.
In any case, I'm going to google more articles and also see what my friends say about this card. Again, thank you! I would like to know if you would recommend this card, though. Lets just say my price range is $170.
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Definitely not for a $2000 configuration. You should be looking at getting a GTX 770 or better at this price point.
There's been lots of releases since November so your wishlist most likely isn't as good as it can be.
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On June 11 2013 13:01 Craton wrote:
Can anyone think of anything besides a defective video card that could cause the following:
New build with new card: artifacting in various games, infrequent driver lockups that Windows would recover.
Put in old card (6950) without touching drivers: no issues.
Put in replacement card (new one of same as #1): infrequent cursor artifacting while PokeMMO active (stayed messed up outside of the game which was running in windowed mode), awful framerate in Bioshock Infinite than previously with same card (and even my old card is completely steady FPS), frequent lockups that would result in losing video and slowing audio to like 5% normal speed, seemingly not getting picture on a successful post and bootup (guess of good based on the debug code LED on the mobo), huge fps drops when mousing over netflix or vlc while the transparent menu was up. The crashes were pretty much always centered around opening additional video (e.g. YouTube). I tried uninstalling driver, doing a clean in safe mode, then reinstalling and it did nothing to improve anything. Both my new and old cards use the same ATI drivers, though.
Put in old card (6950) without touching drivers: no issues.
Basically, my question is did ASUS just send me another piece of shit or could there be something else somehow?
The cursor artifacting is just an ATI thing, though I can't remember it happening for a few months to me.
It sounds like the new card is defective, but the final test would be putting it into another computer. Unlikely but perhaps the new card isn't getting the power it needs?
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This Gigabyte HD 7750 comes with a limited warranty (store handles manufacturer warranty claims for 1 year).
There are in-store replacement plans: $12 for 2 years, $18 for 3 years, or $22 for 4 years (cheaper than RMA shipping).
They repair the gpu within 3-5 days or give me a replacement: same, updated, or closest model depending on the availability.
None of the options cover physical damage. Which one should I choose?
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I'm not sure where you're reading all this information but Newegg doesn't offer a year of warranty to my knowledge. It's been thirty days for a very long time.
The extended warranty starts after the day of manufacturer warranty expiration so you would be dealing with Gigabyte for the first three years of the warranty.
www.newegg.com doesn't ship to Canada.
There isn't extended warranty for four years, nor do I see this pricing you speak of. I see that one year is $10, and two year is $15. Most people are okay with replacing their GPU in 3+ years if it dies but if you're not then pick the appropriate length if you want a peace of mind.
There is no reason why you would need physical damage covered for a GPU unless you're going to be moving your case around a lot I guess.
All this information is like shocking to me and my newegg.com must be incredibly wrong.
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My bad. I used newegg as a reference because it had the most reviews. I ordered it from memoryexpress
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who i have to ask to rename my stream thread from Xsnac to Xsnac - Protoss ?
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United States17233 Posts
On June 11 2013 19:04 Blaec wrote:
The cursor artifacting is just an ATI thing, though I can't remember it happening for a few months to me.
It sounds like the new card is defective, but the final test would be putting it into another computer. Unlikely but perhaps the new card isn't getting the power it needs?
That seems reallllly unlikely. It uses 3 8-pin connections and the PSU is a 1250W XFX which is way overkill for the needs of the card. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207020
I have another PC I could put it in, kind of. I don't really have anywhere to mount the radiator in my old case, so it'd have to stay sitting out. It's also really kind of awkward to reproduce without me using it for an extended period.
At this point I'm basically ready to call up and bitch to Asus and try and make them cover shipping or do some kind of cross-shipping since they've already botched the job once.
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On June 12 2013 12:04 Craton wrote:Show nested quote +On June 11 2013 19:04 Blaec wrote:
The cursor artifacting is just an ATI thing, though I can't remember it happening for a few months to me.
It sounds like the new card is defective, but the final test would be putting it into another computer. Unlikely but perhaps the new card isn't getting the power it needs? That seems reallllly unlikely. It uses 3 8-pin connections and the PSU is a 1250W XFX which is way overkill for the needs of the card. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207020I have another PC I could put it in, kind of. I don't really have anywhere to mount the radiator in my old case, so it'd have to stay sitting out. It's also really kind of awkward to reproduce without me using it for an extended period. At this point I'm basically ready to call up and bitch to Asus and try and make them cover shipping or do some kind of cross-shipping since they've already botched the job once.
Yeah power very unlikely to be the problem. Sounds like a pretty expensive card, so give them hell.
Still might be worth trying in another computer just to make sure it isn't something weird with your current computer.
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I'm not sure if I should ask here, but since the support site of the product is down (hooray) and I have no other tech-related sites I would know, I'll ask away here.
I got myself a KVM (http://www.aten.com/products/productItem.php?model_no=CS82U), turned all the bad things off, like emulation of keyboard and mouse and blegh. No problems in SCII, though playing Mass Effect (1) my left ctrl and left alt keys won't work as intended. They stop my movement immediately, instead of crouching (left ctrl) and sprinting (left alt).
Any quick ideas what it could be?
Oh another note: It's only when walking, when I'm inside Mako (vehicle) left alt works fine for the thrusters ... o_o
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How far behind is Sandy Bridge in comparison to Ivy and Haswell?
Like, really? Is there that much of a difference between my 2500K and the later models?
On June 12 2013 20:50 Jellicent wrote:
I'm not sure if I should ask here, but since the support site of the product is down (hooray) and I have no other tech-related sites I would know, I'll ask away here.
I got myself a KVM (http://www.aten.com/products/productItem.php?model_no=CS82U), turned all the bad things off, like emulation of keyboard and mouse and blegh. No problems in SCII, though playing Mass Effect (1) my left ctrl and left alt keys won't work as intended. They stop my movement immediately, instead of crouching (left ctrl) and sprinting (left alt).
Any quick ideas what it could be?
Oh another note: It's only when walking, when I'm inside Mako (vehicle) left alt works fine for the thrusters ... o_o
Thats a software issue on ME's side as it works in a vehicle i would assume. Are the buttons binded correctly? If they're different did u try using defaults, Have you tried resetting to defaults at all?
Look for the config file with the control options in them and check for errors too.
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On June 14 2013 17:13 Capped wrote:
How far behind is Sandy Bridge in comparison to Ivy and Haswell?
Like, really? Is there that much of a difference between my 2500K and the later models?
10-20% between SB and Haswell, depending on the application. Haswell has lower power consumption as well. The difference is there, but it's not great. You can get a bigger difference from a good overclock. I'm sticking with my i5-2500K for now.
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United Kingdom20275 Posts
+ Show Spoiler +
I like to use these two benches, they are both pretty favoring towards Haswell though.
It's probably not worth making the jump from sandy bridge unless you really care about performance.. I made the leap from nehalem though and the difference is insane. I didn't compare performance directly yet (i'l download old x264 bench i used today i guess, and keep trying to find that replay that i benched in a lot of detail on before for sc2) but it wouldn't surprise me if somebody told me that my sc2 FPS had doubled.
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On June 14 2013 17:13 Capped wrote:How far behind is Sandy Bridge in comparison to Ivy and Haswell? Like, really? Is there that much of a difference between my 2500K and the later models? Show nested quote +On June 12 2013 20:50 Jellicent wrote:
I'm not sure if I should ask here, but since the support site of the product is down (hooray) and I have no other tech-related sites I would know, I'll ask away here.
I got myself a KVM (http://www.aten.com/products/productItem.php?model_no=CS82U), turned all the bad things off, like emulation of keyboard and mouse and blegh. No problems in SCII, though playing Mass Effect (1) my left ctrl and left alt keys won't work as intended. They stop my movement immediately, instead of crouching (left ctrl) and sprinting (left alt).
Any quick ideas what it could be?
Oh another note: It's only when walking, when I'm inside Mako (vehicle) left alt works fine for the thrusters ... o_o Thats a software issue on ME's side as it works in a vehicle i would assume. Are the buttons binded correctly? If they're different did u try using defaults, Have you tried resetting to defaults at all? Look for the config file with the control options in them and check for errors too.
They are bound correctly, yeah. I triple-checked everything. Also, when I reset sprint to the default, which is shift, the same thing happens. Instead of sprinting, the movement stops abruptly.
I've checked in the files, but I didn't find anything that would help. BIOInput.ini seems normal, DefaultInput.ini has stuff missing, but as soon as I change something it reverts everything to the the default setting, so that's no help.
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My microphone is super soft.... I have it boosted in the control panel to the max (+30 db). Any idea on how to fix this? It's very soft for my streams and on skype... no idea why.
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United Kingdom20275 Posts
Try plugging it in to other place. On both my last motherboard and this one i had completely different sound setups (different volumes, characteristics etc) on front panel vs back (directly into motherboard)
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Pootie too good!4331 Posts
I have had Ubuntu 12.04, Lubuntu 12.10, and Linux Mint 15 all on my Asus eePC 1225B at one point in time. Each distro has had a weird bug where randomly on startup my keyboard and touchpad don't work. If I restart, it usually will work the next time (but sometimes it doesn't). If I put it to sleep/hibernate and then bring it back on, they still won't work.
My USB mouse does work (which is how I restart).
Has anyone experienced this problem/know a fix? I have scoured google but to no avail.
My Asus power switch also doesn't work, and one hinge is breaking - so I might have just lucked out with a shitty computer.
Edit: It works fine in Windows. I dual boot with Linux Mint 15.
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On June 14 2013 21:12 Cyro wrote:
Try plugging it in to other place. On both my last motherboard and this one i had completely different sound setups (different volumes, characteristics etc) on front panel vs back (directly into motherboard)
Okay, I tried plugging it into the jack on the front of my comp (which is wired to the mobo) and the sound level is still the same (quite soft). Could it be a driver issue? It says the driver is from '12
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On June 15 2013 00:29 Jugan wrote:Show nested quote +On June 14 2013 21:12 Cyro wrote:
Try plugging it in to other place. On both my last motherboard and this one i had completely different sound setups (different volumes, characteristics etc) on front panel vs back (directly into motherboard) Okay, I tried plugging it into the jack on the front of my comp (which is wired to the mobo) and the sound level is still the same (quite soft). Could it be a driver issue? It says the driver is from '12
Quick idea, how does it sound in other apps? And did you check if you allowed Windows and/or other programs to take control over the hardware? Cause that's something that's jumping into my mind right now which causes a lot of problems.
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United States17233 Posts
OK:
After 38 minutes on hold (I was going to hang up at 40), I finally spoke to ASUS customer service and got them to cross ship a replacement model of my card (Ares II).
In the meantime, I wanted to re-confirm that it's borked by putting it in another PC and running it. This is the PSU in my other PC: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182188 (1000W, but four 12V rails). I'm assuming it can handle it. It's 3.5 years old.
More concerning to me is the placement of the radiator. Literally the only place I can actually attach it inside the case is on the rear exhaust port directly behind the CPU heatsink exhaust. The card in my new PC runs at 55C under full load, while the CPU in that old PC runs a bit hot, even at stock speeds. I think it goes over 90-95C under Prime95. The tubing can just run over top the CPU heatsink and the radiator fan can attach outside the rear of the case.
This makes me think that it's probably OK to have it here for the sake of testing (I'll probably leave the side off, anyway), but since I'm going to want to stress it I want to have a second opinion.
![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/etrmxg7.jpg)
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EPT![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/vp4Lspb.png)
![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/xN3v2Nt.png)
