In terms of cooling efficiency for a single card by itself in a well-ventilated case or test bench, the open-air, often dual-fan (or triple-fan) coolers are by far the best. They get low temps and lower noise, at the expense of heaving a lot of hot air lying around.
On December 22 2012 15:57 GhostKorean wrote: Is there a way to turn off the mousewheel scrolling? My mousewheel fucks up a lot and I want to keep the middle click but leave scrolling
X-mouse button control. It's the same program people use to throw a million snipes/infested terrans/etc super fast by binding left click to the wheel up and down (hold spell + wheel, million IT all at once). I believe some mouse drivers also allow you to intercept commands and change them too.
On December 22 2012 08:42 ssi.bal-listic wrote: This is driving me crazy. I have an alienware m17 r1 laptop and there is this noise coming from either fan or HD (probably fan). It sounds like scrolling the mouse wheel REALLY fast and x100 sound
I opened the laptop and cleaned it out pretty well but it doesn't help. I'm pretty sure it's the fan but I don't know how to make it stop. Is my only option to tear the fan out and possibly replace it? Can I just command it to stop? This noise is driving me insane.
Disconnecting the fan sounds like a terrible idea, that's all you got cooling everything in the laptop. You should check a hw monitor like hwinfo to make sure things aren't overheating or doing long term damage. A fan running on low can be responsible for over 20*C+ in cooling, just on idle. I would strongly advise against disconnecting the fan and then continuing to use the laptop unless you REALLY know what you are doing.
Did the fan incrementally get like this over time, or was it all of the sudden like this?
There could be a couple reasons why your fan is doing what it's doing - bad power control (anything from damaged motherboard, power supply, fan modulator chip, software even), ran out of lube (how old is the computer/fan? although can happen with fresh fans too...), dirt/objects in fan well, bad connection or shorted wire (anywhere)...
If you have a desktop (or a psu if you're savvy enough), I'd plug in the fan to rule out the laptop being the problem, and that the fan is the problem. If it runs smoothly when connected to something else, then you have a more serious problem.
Since the fan is broken, you have nothing to lose by lubing up the fan.
Remove the fan head like such:
If you 'cant' remove it:
Then, lube it up: http://www.overclock.net/t/773256/prepping-a-sleeve-bearing-fan-for-work Very straightforward, just drop some mineral oil/machine oil/engine oil/fan lubruicant (anything works, mineral oil is very standard and you probably have laying around, whatever) into the fan well, put it back together, and see if it works.
You got nothing to lose, for all intents and purposes the fan is already broken so I'd recommend you lube it up, as that's most commonly the source of a loud fan, even like what is happening with your fan. If that doesn't work, then simply order another fan that's the same size with the same power connector (you could even upgrade/downgrade/buy stock, whatever).
On December 22 2012 13:06 Craton wrote: Question pertaining to dual graphic card setups (SLI / Crossfire):
Are all the motherboards/connectors side by side where if both cards take up 2 slots they end up right up against each other? For those that are close like that, isn't this a major heat issue where the "inside" one isn't venting heat well and the "outside" one is also getting extra heat being pushed onto its backside?
A little bit but it shouldn't be a problem at stock settings or with good case ventilation or good GPU heatsinks. There are plenty of non-reference GPUs that have blower design, and many non-reference GPUs with non-blower design that'll cool much better and would be better than a reference blower design anyways.
Non-blower just means more hot air goes into the case instead of out of the case, they both have their pros and cons (non-blower tends to run cooler, but puts some hot air in the case, which may be a problem if your running a high-end overclock on a low-end cooler, or it might not be a problem at all if you run a water loop or high end cooler or lower end overclock or cooler chip).
Basically, it's not really a big issue, and it can be easily solved with an extra case fan or two. More hot air in the case isn't a big problem if you got good air flow in the case. It's only really a problem if your trying to push the limits of your entire system and your limited in cooling or pushing extremes. It's definitely not a 'major issue'.
Water cooling is perfectly fine and easy to set up, but isn't necessary unless your just after the absolute best, as in your more interested in overclocking for the sake of overclocking than for overclocking for practical purposes. You can also always get an aftermarket GPU air cooler (instead of custom water loops) with blower design or simply better cooling, or get one just to put on the top card, if it's REALLY an issue but I don't think it would be at all.
If you are asking this question, I'm going to presume you aren't pushing the extremes where this would be an issue. It shouldn't deteralter your choice in GPUs.
On December 22 2012 16:34 MiyaviTeddy wrote: Can you overclock a i5-2500k to 4.0 or above without a cooling system? My friend says you can but I'm kinda skeptical.
Well without a cooling system, your computer wouldn't even boot up. If you mean using Intel's stock heatsink, yes it's possible to achieve 4GHz.
On December 22 2012 16:34 MiyaviTeddy wrote: Can you overclock a i5-2500k to 4.0 or above without a cooling system? My friend says you can but I'm kinda skeptical.
ya 4ghz on a 2500k with a stock cooler is generally ok, just undervolt a little and do a prime 95 run, but $20-$30 more will get you to 4.5-4.6 with similar temps.
I did 4.0 with the stock cooler and a shit case in Australia for 6 months, had p95 temps of about 65-70 undervolted. When I got my 212+, load temps went to under 60 @4.4 ghz, 1.24v.
I just got a new optical drive, LG WH14NS40, it is detected in device manager (with a yellow triangle and an exclamation mark) but not in my computer or in any other program I've tried. How do I fix this?
They pretty much are just going for the bare minimum that'll get the job done. I'd be interested to know what % of people actually stay with stock coolers.
If I were to change to a 1155 motherboard which was 4 slots of dual channel would there be any compatibility issues? I would think the RAM itself couldn't care less.
EPT
