|
I didn't see any big thread for networking things.
My dad has a woodshop about 150 feet behind his house that he converted into a gym. The wireless in the house is unable to reach down to this gym at a level that's usable (think bogged down dial-up line / dropped connections).
For Christmas, I'm looking to set up some kind of repeater that's capable of extending the distance sufficiently. My thoughts were that I'd probably need one on the back edge of the house and another in the gym on the closest edge.0
Other than that, I'm not really sure how to go about researching what to use/get and am seeking help (e.g. particularly good resources or hardware items)
|
That sounds like basically what I was looking for advice on in this thread I made:
http://www.teamliquid.net/forum/viewmessage.php?topic_id=347449
But of course then you would need a long cable to reach that far that would need to run through conduit or something. Pretty large distance compared to what mine was though, so I'm not sure if there's any better suggestions.
|
Well I definitely don't want a wired solution. I'm just looking for ideas on how I could extend the signal from the edge of my house to the edge of the gym sufficiently that it could be picked up and have a strong enough signal for streaming music or video.
I'm more after some kind of resource that can help gauge what strength I need, if I need a 2 repeater vs 1 repeater solution, or whatever. I'm just not sure that sticking a repeater on the inside wall of my house will get me a signal worth repeating or using by the time it's down at the gym, but maybe there's a super extra-strength repeater or something.
|
Is there a direct line of sight from the house to the shed? What device (computer...?) is on the receiving end in the shed, and how far is it from the side that faces the house?
|
Guess Ill try TL for this question.
I need to build an office network. It needs the following highlights. I think I am mostly looking for a networking service or program.
- Be able to incorporate both Macs and Windows.
- Replaces the default login solution with something that involves the local area network
- I don't think it needs to be able to carry the users operating environment from computer to computer, that sounds resource heavy anyway. Just a networked login solution is fine.
- I need to be able to do a full audit of the network (who is currently signed in and under what username)
- I need to be able to replace passwords remotely.
- Remote desktop without the use of something like LogMeIn or teamviewer.
- I personally need to be able to log into this network from outside the local area network.
- Does not need to be free. Scalability is the most important thing. Im not looking for a bunch of free solutions, Im looking for the least amount of solutions required to pull all of this together.
- Support for mobile or hard authenticators a plus but not necessary.
- Link two or more work sites together into the same network. So if I login on one campus its the same greater network as the other campus.
Ask me questions. Im sure I am forgetting things.
EDIT: OH SHIT my icon evolved.
|
On November 24 2012 17:30 Myrmidon wrote:
Is there a direct line of sight from the house to the shed? What device (computer...?) is on the receiving end in the shed, and how far is it from the side that faces the house?
Yes.
He'd most likely use an iPad, maybe an iPhone. I don't think it would necessary have to move from the closest wall, but would be ideally able to.
|
On November 25 2012 04:09 Medrea wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Guess Ill try TL for this question. I need to build an office network. It needs the following highlights. I think I am mostly looking for a networking service or program. - Be able to incorporate both Macs and Windows.
- Replaces the default login solution with something that involves the local area network
- I don't think it needs to be able to carry the users operating environment from computer to computer, that sounds resource heavy anyway. Just a networked login solution is fine.
- I need to be able to do a full audit of the network (who is currently signed in and under what username)
- I need to be able to replace passwords remotely.
- Remote desktop without the use of something like LogMeIn or teamviewer.
- I personally need to be able to log into this network from outside the local area network.
- Does not need to be free. Scalability is the most important thing. Im not looking for a bunch of free solutions, Im looking for the least amount of solutions required to pull all of this together.
- Support for mobile or hard authenticators a plus but not necessary.
- Link two or more work sites together into the same network. So if I login on one campus its the same greater network as the other campus.
Ask me questions. Im sure I am forgetting things. EDIT: OH SHIT my icon evolved.
Ewwwwwwww, network admin / related banalities. I'm outta here. x_x
On November 25 2012 14:02 Craton wrote:Show nested quote +On November 24 2012 17:30 Myrmidon wrote:
Is there a direct line of sight from the house to the shed? What device (computer...?) is on the receiving end in the shed, and how far is it from the side that faces the house? Yes. He'd most likely use an iPad, maybe an iPhone. I don't think it would necessary have to move from the closest wall, but would be ideally able to.
Just for the record, I was hoping for some laptop, where you could use an external wireless adapter, maybe with a directional antenna pointed at the house. Guess not.
In my opinion, Wi-Fi is just not really that suited for a lot of these kinds of hacks, like repeaters, range extending, etc. You don't want a complicated network structure or multiple hops when dealing with a system with free-for-all medium access control (collisions a big problem; hidden terminal problem, etc., etc.). But it definitely can work.
Setting up 2+ repeaters and trying to stream video over that seems like a flaky proposition to me, but that's just a guess. I'd try to do it with only 1 repeater. Outdoors range is usually quoted at some 300 feet or so for typical hardware, but that's probably at the lower data rates. And if that's through a repeater, that's worse than halving your effective throughput.
How far is the home's wireless access point / router from the wall that faces the shed? Are there walls in the way? It might just suffice to put a repeater inside the house, facing the shed.
|
It's not that far from the back wall, but there are a lot of electronics and some metal ducts in the way. Collision domains really aren't a problem for the wireless because there isn't much use on it. The only devices that use it are either my dad's smart phone, either of my parent's iPad, and my dad's Laptop (but that's usually wired and wouldn't be used in concert with the other devices for the most part) -- in short, not an issue; I'm well-educated in networking having gone through CCNA/CCNP and later several college courses back when I was an undergrad.
I'm asking for help largely so I don't just have to go through the process of buying things over and over until it works (or maybe never does). I just can't find anything specific enough to the situation because of all the differences in what impedes signal from one house to the next.
|
I think this is the situation where (1) somebody goes out there with a spectrum analyzer (and so on), test laptop or other network gear, actually figures out what is optimal, or (2) somebody has to keep buying stuff until it works. There's only a certain amount that guessing around based on obstruction type and modeling will do for you. I mean, consider that at 2.4 GHz a wavelength is like 12.5 cm. All these obstructions, etc. are features that are around this order of magnitude. You can't predict the interactions, even when moving stuff around slightly. Ray tracing? fuggeddaboutit
If there's nothing else close by and little other contention on the home network, then sure, a couple of repeaters may be okay then.
If you don't have some kind of wireless spectrum / network analyzer, with certain wireless adapters, you could probably snoop around with a laptop and look at SNR or something from a packet sniffer (if the adapter / drivers support such auxilliary information; radiotap header?), to try to gauge where to put stuff. I forget if that requires Linux.
|
I have a white qsenn dt 35, and i was wondering if the teamliquid key, which you can by in the store will fit my qsenn?
And if it dosent fit, do anyone know were I can buy keys for my keyboard?
|
|
|
United Kingdom20343 Posts
On November 25 2012 21:28 Vegdji wrote:
I have a white qsenn dt 35, and i was wondering if the teamliquid key, which you can by in the store will fit my qsenn?
And if it dosent fit, do anyone know were I can buy keys for my keyboard?
It's a Cherry MX keycap for Cherry MX mechanical boards, you generally cant replace keys like that on the cheap lower quality rubber dome keyboards.
|
Okey thanks. But do anyone know if i can buy keycaps for the qsenn anywhere?
|
On November 26 2012 01:25 Vegdji wrote:
Okey thanks. But do anyone know if i can buy keycaps for the qsenn anywhere?
look at the shop of your label or maybe amazon....
|
On November 26 2012 08:13 chindy wrote:Show nested quote +On November 26 2012 01:25 Vegdji wrote:
Okey thanks. But do anyone know if i can buy keycaps for the qsenn anywhere? look at the shop of your label or maybe amazon....
You shouldn't really advice like that..especially when I know of no keyboard brands that make their own set of keycaps neither Amazon having any afaik. I don't believe the keys are even removable on the Qsenn? I've never owned one so I'm not sure, but I'm just assuming greatly on the fact that it's a rubber-domed keyboard that none of the keys are removable in the first place. FYI, the TL keycaps are a bit strange in their elevation and size. Quite simply if you want to use keycaps you're going to have to get a mechanical keyboard. A majority of keycaps are made for cherry switches.
|
|
|
Ok so today my GIGABYTE GA-990XA-UD3 packed in and I need a new AM3+ 990FX socket motherboard. I want something better ideally since I have the money but Motherboards aren't my strong point.
My CPU is the AMD FX-8150 Bulldozer 8-core processor @3.6Ghz, I have a Cooler Master CM Storm Enforcer case and I'm running an 850W PSU.
Any recommendations are welcomed, thanks in advance!
|
Is it quieter? Yes.
Is 80+ gold worth it? Maybe. It does save money on your electrical bill.
Is it worth spending money to replace your current unit? Good question. Probably not. Unless you calculate that the energy savings will cover the cost of the unit (and the trouble of replacing it). Since you're from the US, where electricity is dirt cheap almost everywhere, it's most likely not worth it by a long shot. You can do the math yourself to figure it out.
Also, I have a strong suspicion your system needs nowhere near a 700W PSU. Without knowing what it is. Just from past observation about how much people over-estimate what they need. What system do you have?
+ Show Spoiler +On November 27 2012 07:26 WoodchucK wrote:
Ok so today my GIGABYTE GA-990XA-UD3 packed in and I need a new AM3+ 990FX socket motherboard. I want something better ideally since I have the money but Motherboards aren't my strong point.
My CPU is the AMD FX-8150 Bulldozer 8-core processor @3.6Ghz, I have a Cooler Master CM Storm Enforcer case and I'm running an 850W PSU.
Any recommendations are welcomed, thanks in advance!
Packed = died? How?
Short answer: RMA
Long answer:
What is a "better" motherboard that you'd want to buy something else instead of just RMA?
More features? Do you need anything in particular?
Higher quality components (VRM's and such)? Yours should be good on that.
Higher overclocking capability? Again, yours should be quite good.
|
On November 27 2012 08:09 Wabbit wrote:Is it quieter? Yes. Is 80+ gold worth it? Maybe. It does save money on your electrical bill. Is it worth spending money to replace your current unit? Good question. Probably not. Unless you calculate that the energy savings will cover the cost of the unit (and the trouble of replacing it). Since you're from the US, where electricity is dirt cheap almost everywhere, it's most likely not worth it by a long shot. You can do the math yourself to figure it out. Also, I have a strong suspicion your system needs nowhere near a 700W PSU. Without knowing what it is. Just from past observation about how much people over-estimate what they need. What system do you have?
700-750 is more than I need, but I also got that wattage for a couple of reasons
1) I may SLI in the future
2) I want to keep it close to 50% power rather than full load to keep temperatures and noise down.
It is such a tempting buy just because its like 50% off ><
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
EPT
