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On August 27 2011 04:13 epikAnglory wrote:
Sorry that did not help my problem, thanks though. It is still capped at 33 for the CPU Ratio, and it is not possible to set the ratio by core for my motherboard.
Also could you please elaborate what disabling Loadline does?
It is possible to set your ratio by core, this is a feature available on LGA1155 boards as this is how turbo boost functions (obviously not user editable on H61/H67 boards).
Turbo Mode [Disabled]
1 Core Ratio Limit [37]
2 Core Ratio Limit [36]
3 Core Ratio Limit [35]
4 Core Ratio Limit [34]
You probably need to increase both Power Limit 1 and CPU Core Current Max (Amp) to higher values to get it to go higher since 95 is the default value for the 2500k.
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Oh so the only possible way to OC is to Turboboost. Yeah it now works when I set the Limits to 42, and enable turboboost. I was hoping for a solid OC with a constant cpu speed, but I guess I should be satisfied with this already.
Let me try your settings, btw could you elaborate on a range of "higher values"? Is it increase by a little (5-10) or a lot like 15-20.
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Try 130 for both. I've seen people with 150 for both values but I have no clue what max amperage is since this option isn't available in Gigabyte or ASUS boards.
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HOLY SHIT YOU ARE AMAZING!
(The Max Amp for my mobo was 120 though, I set it to 115 and the Power Limit 1 to 125.
However, is it better to run a constant 4.2 GHz or 1.6-4.2 GHz with Turboboost?
Also when you use HDMI to your GPU, does the sound quality from the monitor come from the motherboard or the graphics card?
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turboboost will optimize in low number of thread use, as for gaming
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Subjective.
Running with Speedstep and Turboboost enabled will help your electricity bill. There's very little reason why these should be off for the regular user.
You have to plug audio cables to your graphics card to utilize HDMI iirc so it would come from whatever you are using for sound.
Most people overclock with a single value so what Rachnar said isn't really true at all.
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If you're getting sound out through HDMI, it's a digital bitstream. The graphics card doesn't do any processing, so it is not at all responsible for the sound quality. It's just passing the bits through and out the port. If you're extracting sound through an analog 3.5mm jack on the monitor (hooked through HDMI) or analog through RCAs from a TV or something like that, then that means that there was some chip on the monitor (TV) responsible for doing the digital-to-analog conversion. In other words, the monitor is converting the digital information passed through via HDMI, to an analog voltage signal on the jack output. Therefore it's the monitor responsible for the sound quality.
To keep costs low obviously they're not going to put some super-duper high fidelity sound implementation on there. Granted, it's not too difficult to get pretty decent sound quality for cheap these days, even as a something of an afterthought. If you're using speakers, it's probably not an issue since driving a line input (on the speakers) is not that difficult to do pretty well. If you're driving headphones off of the connection, that's more of an issue as driving headphone impedances is significantly more difficult to do accurately. However, unless you really care and have pretty good headphones, I wouldn't expect it to be a big deal one way or the other.
edit: I'd keep the low power states on btw. It's not just the electricity bill, but producing a bit less heat and possibly noise and putting a little less strain on the motherboard voltage regulators (and an insignificant less amount of strain on the power supply). If your CPU is idling at 4.2 GHz not doing much of anything, it won't use as much power as it would at 4.2 GHz while doing heavy work, but it won't be as little power as 1.6 GHz and reduced voltage while not doing much of anything.
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It is just that my GPU gives advertisement crap like HD Sound and stuff, so I thought HDMI connected to your GPU meant that the GPU was giving off the sound. Ok I guess I will just stick with Turboboost Overclock then, thanks!
Also about the heat and electricity bill, my vCore for CPU-Z still stays about the same as it would for 4.2 GHz constantly, at 1.248 to 1.272 at stress. Do I lower the vCore if I am using SpeedStep technology, it is currently at 1.27.
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Speedstep isn't functioning properly probably because you have C1E, C3, or C6 disabled. All should be on if you have Speedstep enabled.
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Thanks! My C1E is enabled. To enable moderation of C3 and C6, I have to change my Power Technology Option from Energy Efficient to Custom. How should I set these?
CPU C3 Report [Disabled, ACPI C-2, ACPI C-3]
CPU C6 Report [Enabled]
Package C State Limit [C0, C1, C6, C7, No Limit]
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It's funny how much more options you get on a Biostar board... probably best to consult your manual or someone else who has the board.
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Just wondering, the electricity bill and CPU life span factors depend on your Core Voltage right? Not your CPU Speed, because I have no idea how to set the C Packet settings and I get the same Voltage with Turboboost mode and stable 4.2 GHz.
My temperatures also rise to 85 degrees very fast with Prime95, in about 50 seconds.This is how my OC settings look like: (the layout, those aren't my settings)
![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/AQzwh.png)
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CPU Frequency also plays a factor.
Temperatures are suppose to rise very quickly when you are running prime95 or any other synthetic test that puts your processor under full load.
85c is sort of high for such a measly overclock. Either you're using the stock Intel heatsink, you mounted whatever aftermarket heatsink you have very poorly, or you have poor airflow.
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I get an idle of 36~ degrees on my CPU with 1.6 GHz, about 46~ with a steady 4.2 GHz , and I am using the Xigmatek Loki.
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Xigmatek Loki, is, I believe, a midget cooler? A good one, but small. It's still better than the stock intel sink, so either it's not seated right or your airflow/ambient sucks, but it's a fair cooler. Shouldn't perform up to the standards of a proper tower cooler like the Gaia/212+ or better though.
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It's a decent 92mm fan tower cooler. It really shouldn't be having that much trouble unless the voltage is way too high. At 4.2 GHz I think most i5-2500k will be able to get by without any voltage increase, or maybe just a slight one. 1.272V is reasonable.
Seems like just a bit worse than the 120mm fan tower Gaia, just a lot louder:
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1609/6/
http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2592&page=5
edit: though I dunno, with HDT coolers you can never be certain about the base on your sample. How was thermal paste applied?
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Yeah, I agree something is still out of whack, but it's less so than if it was one of the larger coolers was all I was saying. Of course, the best thing about the 120mm fan coolers is having all those high end case fan options available to replace the various stock stuff.
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5930 Posts
Speaking of heatsinks, does the United States not sell Thermalright products anymore? Because holy shit the Thermalright HR-02 Macho is an amazing steal at $40 provided you can fit the thing in your case.
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If you have a GPU plugged into your motherboard (PCIE), and you link your monitor with HDMI TO THE MOTHERBOARD, will it be utilizing the GPU or integrated graphics?
EDIT: yay this post gave me a dragoon
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If you are using a Z68 motherboard, lucid will switch between the two depending on the task. If you are using a H67 than you will get no signal.
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EPT
