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On August 24 2011 07:13 So no fek wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Alright, decided I don't really need to overclock now and it would be nice to save some money. You mentioned that the i5-2500 is a good deal, JingleHell? I switched around the components suggested for me above a bit, and came up with this: i5 2500 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115073Corsair 600w PSU + Asus H67 combo for $140 - $20 MIR http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.703462Kingston HyperX 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104266&cm_sp=Cat_Memory-_-Daily_Deal-_-20-104-266 $49 LIAN LI Lancool PC-K58 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112237 $60 SAMSUNG 470 Series MZ-5PA064B/AM 2.5" 64GB SATA II http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147124 $120 SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185 $60 Sony Optiarc CD/DVD Burner http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118039#top $20 sata cable http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812816062 $6 If I go with that build, I should also switch out the memory too, right? Memory standard of the motherboard I listed says 1333/1066. So I should just switch to the $40 G-skill set, or something. Wabbit: Yeah, you're right. I probably could afford it, but keeping costs down would also be nice too. I'm not really big on multiplayer games myself, though I do imagine myself playing some fairly intensive single player games. Would probably save me some money in the long run to go with the 2500k, but if I really like building my PC this time around, there's no reason I can't include a similar processor in my next build a few years down the line.
That Mobo + PSU combo is only nice if you need the features of the mobo (there are less expensive H61/H67 mobos) and you can get a cheaper (price, not quality) PSU - like that corsair one linked above for $40 after rebates.
Also, don't get that RAM kit, it's rated at 1.65V and Sandy Bridge likes 1.5V or less. This GSkill set is a better choice (edit: or an equivalent, cheaper one 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231422
Also, if the mobo doesn't support higher than 1333MHz memory there's no point in getting higher speed because:
1) It'll clock down automatically to 1333
2) Difference between 1333 vs 1600 vs even higher is minimal.
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On August 24 2011 07:28 Wabbit wrote:Show nested quote +On August 24 2011 07:13 So no fek wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Alright, decided I don't really need to overclock now and it would be nice to save some money. You mentioned that the i5-2500 is a good deal, JingleHell? I switched around the components suggested for me above a bit, and came up with this: i5 2500 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115073Corsair 600w PSU + Asus H67 combo for $140 - $20 MIR http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.703462Kingston HyperX 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104266&cm_sp=Cat_Memory-_-Daily_Deal-_-20-104-266 $49 LIAN LI Lancool PC-K58 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112237 $60 SAMSUNG 470 Series MZ-5PA064B/AM 2.5" 64GB SATA II http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147124 $120 SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185 $60 Sony Optiarc CD/DVD Burner http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118039#top $20 sata cable http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812816062 $6 If I go with that build, I should also switch out the memory too, right? Memory standard of the motherboard I listed says 1333/1066. So I should just switch to the $40 G-skill set, or something. Wabbit: Yeah, you're right. I probably could afford it, but keeping costs down would also be nice too. I'm not really big on multiplayer games myself, though I do imagine myself playing some fairly intensive single player games. Would probably save me some money in the long run to go with the 2500k, but if I really like building my PC this time around, there's no reason I can't include a similar processor in my next build a few years down the line. That Mobo + PSU combo is only nice if you need the features of the mobo (there are less expensive H61/H67 mobos) and you can get a cheaper (price, not quality) PSU - like that corsair one linked above for $40 after rebates. Also, don't get that RAM kit, it's rated at 1.65V and Sandy Bridge likes 1.5V or less. This GSkill set is a better choice (edit: or an equivalent, cheaper one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231422Also, if the mobo doesn't support higher than 1333MHz memory there's no point in getting higher speed because: 1) It'll clock down automatically to 1333 2) Difference between 1333 vs 1600 vs even higher is minimal.
Yeah, I just switched out the motherboard for an MSI that runs about $65 after MIR, I think. And went with the 500w Corsair that was posted.
For memory, this kit appears to be the better deal at the moment, right? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231426
Same voltage and $5 cheaper with promo code.
Edit: One last question and I promise I'll stop bothering you guys. 
Should I go with the Samsung SSD or the Crucial M4 I've seen recommended? Don't mind paying the extra $5 for the Samsung if it's the better drive, but I've just seen more recommendations for the M4 in this thread.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147124
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148441
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On August 24 2011 07:32 So no fek wrote:Yeah, I just switched out the motherboard for an MSI that runs about $65 after MIR, I think. And went with the 500w Corsair that was posted. For memory, this kit appears to be the better deal at the moment, right? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231426Same voltage and $5 cheaper with promo code.
Haha, wow, nice deal, $40 for 8GB... and I thought I got a great deal when I got 8GB for $55 only 2 months ago (it was 1600MHz but... not really that big of a difference)
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On August 24 2011 07:37 Wabbit wrote:Haha, wow, nice deal, $40 for 8GB... and I thought I got a great deal when I got 8GB for $55 only 2 months ago (it was 1600MHz but... not really that big of a difference)
$40 is the new standard for 8GB if you're willing to look now. You see them dipping down to $35 every now and then, and I believe there's one on newegg for $28, but it's 1.65v.
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Why would you suggest a 6870 on such low resolution? A 6850 would already be overkill, and a GTS 450 should run fine. I would use an extra $60-80 on an i5 2400.
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I thought you said you were going to settle with the i5 2500 earlier? Are you saying you switched to the K version? Just wondering, I saw you say earlier in the thread "Just in case" get the overclockable version and swap out mobos in the future if you decide to OC, but that's so much of a hassle and wasted money you might as well just get an overclockable mobo initially and just not OC it until you decide you want to.
And you don't live near a microcenter do you? Their prices are far cheaper than newegg for Mobo/Processor if you live near one, you'd save a ton.
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Nah, I'm going with the i5-2500, so I haven't changed my mind to the K version. I realize I'm looking quite indecisive right now. Though it's only about an extra $100, I could use saving it right now. I'll probably be in a better position financially in a 2-3 years, so I'll be more than willing to build a new PC that's OC capable. But knowing myself, I probably won't bother with OCing anytime in the next year or two, so why "waste" the money?
Edit: Nope. I made sure to check their site.  No locations in Nevada.
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Is this a stable temperature for my overclocked CPU at (almost) idle CPU? My computer has been running for about 15 minutes with Chrome and Skype on (turned off 2 min before I took this picture).
i5 2500k w/ Xigmatek Loki
![[image loading]](http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/5504/89049347.png)
Is my core voltage too low? I ran Prime 95 for about 35 minutes and it reached about 80ish degrees.
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On August 24 2011 07:52 epikAnglory wrote:Is this a stable temperature for my overclocked CPU at (almost) idle CPU? My computer has been running for about 15 minutes with Chrome and Skype on (turned off 2 min before I took this picture). i5 2500k w/ Xigmatek Loki + Show Spoiler +Is my core voltage too low? I ran Prime 95 for about 35 minutes and it reached about 80ish degrees.
Well, the temps at full load are more critical than the idle temps. That's a wee bit high for idle, but the Loki is only an OK cooler anyway. Your load temps are around what some Intel CPUs will hit on stock cooling at stock clocks, so it shouldn't be an issue unless you fully load your CPU for insanely long periods of time regularly.
As for your voltage being too low, it's only too low if it causes stability issues.
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Alright thanks I guess I won't go any more further then! I am not noticing any stability issues atm so I guess I will keep my core voltage which is hopping from 1.26 and 2.272 on CPUz.
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Wait, is your Vcore on auto or something cracked out? Are you saying it goes up to 2.272 under load?
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On August 24 2011 08:04 JingleHell wrote:
Wait, is your Vcore on auto or something cracked out? Are you saying it goes up to 2.272 under load?
It is set on Fixed Mode (not Auto or Offset) on 1.29 vCore, and hops from 1.26 to 1.272 every few seconds on idle state. I moved it to 1.28 to test and it still has the same numbers.
EDIT: Actually on 1.28 it doesn't hop to 1.272 that frequently any more, but instead 1.236.
EDIT2: Nvm it jumps around, I saw 1.248 as well, but regardless it stays at 1.26 90% of the time.
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Oh, jesus, edit your post where you said 2.272... lol, that scared the hell out of me. As for the why of the twitching, no clue.
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What is your budget?
I was hoping to get a solution for 1700$ (canadian), but if needed, I could manage to a maximum of 1900$.
What is your resolution?
I am not certain yet whether I will go for a 16:10 or 16: 9 ratio, so resolution is going to be either 1920x1200 or 1920x1080. I guess it will depend on the price of the monitors I can find.
What are you using it for?
This computer is going to be both my working station and gaming station. And by working, I mean heavy photography work.
First priority : The likes of Photoshop and Lightroom have to run very smoothly. That is my absolute, no-compromise priority. It rely on that to earn my food.
Second priority : gaming at high / ultra settings.
Third priority : Streaming. I need to be able to stream games and softwares like photoshop (though not both at the same time, lol).
What is your upgrade cycle?
I wouldn't go as far as say i'd change every part each time, but I would say cycles of about 2 years.
The upgrade cycle on this
not exactly sure how this is different from previous point.
When do you plan on building it?
in the next month and a half / two month max. I already have some money available, so I would be able to buy parts on the course of the following 1-2 months (dunno if this is better or not, but I was thinking it might help me take advantage of eventual rebates between now and 2 months in the future)
Do you plan on overclocking?
Overclocking is not entirely excluded, but I shall say it scares me a bit, because I need it to do my photography work and earn food.I absolutely cannot afford having it malfunction, nor can I consider shortening the lifespan of the rig at the expanse of performance. However, I would be more than happy to be wrong, and if someone can point me to an overclocked build without or with very low risk or strain, I would reconsider.
Do you need an Operating System?
No, that's about the only thing I have already.
Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire?
As far as I heard, they are pretty useless when running lower resolutions than 1920x1200, even on 2 monitors.
Where are you buying your parts from?
I am in Canada, so probably newegg.ca
IMPORTANT EXTRA INFORMATION :
This is a COMPLETE build. and by complete I mean I will need BOTH a new case and a new monitor (planning to add a second monitor in the future). basically, all I have right now is a keyboard, a mouse, a headset and an operating system.
Thanks in advance for the help
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Ask again when you are building as prices /sales will be different and new components will be out in a month.
Newegg is terrible, no Canadian should be buying from an American retailer. You should be looking at NCIX, Canada Computers, Memory Express, or any other Canadian retailer which all ship from Canadian retailers and offer pricematching.
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I thought newegg.ca was the canadian version with canadian prices. Thnaks you saved me some trouble !
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It is the Canadian version with Canadian prices but why would you shop at an American retailer that ships to Canada from American warehouses (higher shipping expenses) and offer no pricematching?
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No reason whatsoever. You have me convinced here.
Among the ones you mentioned, which one do you recommend the most?
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NCIX has the largest selection and often the best sales / shipping promotions / prices (if not, it can just be pricematched).
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EPT
