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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. |
On August 24 2011 03:06 Rachnar wrote:bulldozer coming out this month, so as i said for a good performance gaming pc, might be worth waiting  especially if they are competitive with SB, intel will lower it's prices
Dam you, I was looking forward to assembly.. Now you have me doubting. You have a good point.
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Everything is compatible, have a nice time building it
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On August 24 2011 03:46 Rachnar wrote:Everything is compatible, have a nice time building it 
thanks a lot. i really appreciate it.
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Very close to the system I built recently, you are going to enjoy it :D, just make sure to buy/upgrade your monitor if you have an old one, it makes a huge difference.
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On August 24 2011 01:01 CuraOh wrote:Show nested quote +On August 23 2011 16:17 So no fek wrote:Eh, what the hell. You guys have been a great help the last couple of days, so I have a fairly general idea of what I want to do, but it wouldn't hurt to get some more feedback. + Show Spoiler [Questions] +What is your budget?
Up to $1000ish. Maybe a little over, but I won't complain if it's under.
What is your resolution?
1680 x 1050 But it's the maximum resolution on my current 4 year old monitor. I'd be more than happy to take some monitor recommendations as well, either included in the budget or outside of it.
What are you using it for?
Gaming mainly, but no encoding or anything along those lines. Don't know if this is really relevant, but I do like tabbing out while gaming and browsing the net and such... and I tend to be terrible at tab management, so it's not unusual for me to have 50-60 Chrome tabs open, with a game and WMP or something.
What is your upgrade cycle?
Probably 2+ years, but I'd probably upgrade key parts, if possible, as time went along before building a new PC completely.
When do you plan on building it?
Probably order all the parts within the next week or two.
Do you plan on overclocking?
I was thinking about it, but for this build I'm fine with keeping costs down and going with the i5-2400.
Do you need an Operating System?
Should be able to get a student copy for $30.
Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire?
Nope.
CrossFire and SLI are powerful solutions that allow higher performance, but in order to utilize them, we have to choose motherboards and PSUs that can support the increased demands that Crossfire and SLI place on your components.
Where are you buying your parts from?
Newegg probably. I can utilize Fry's ads should they have anything good, but generally they're more expensive.
+ Show Spoiler [other info] + - Case wise I'm leaning towards the Lancool K-58/60. Though if you have a better recommendation, even if it's a bit pricier, I'd consider it. Better as in the important aspects anyway, and not necessarily aesthetics. I'd probably consider using whatever case I get in my next build, unless cases change drastically in the next two years, so I'd definitely like something that will last.
- Before I thought about building a new PC entirely, I upgraded my video card based off the recommendations for my resolution in the OP. I bought an EVGA GTX 460 1GB SE. I just bought it a few months ago, so I'd definitely consider using it until a new line of cards comes out, if you guys think it will do the job. However, having read some comments in this thread the last few days, it's apparently a terrible card... so I'll take recommendations either way.
- A SSD/storage drive is rhttp://www.teamliquid.net/forum/postmessage.php?quote=10078&topic_id=137554ecommended, right? I'd be willing to include that in my budget.
And just out of curiosity, what are the benefit/disadvantages to a modular PSU, other than cabling? My current PSU is a Corsair 620 HX and I know it's modular.
On a completely unrelated note, a house across my street is on fire right now. Or rather, there's a ton of firemen/emergency services putting it out now. Thanks for all your help, guys! i think you should keep the video card and the power supply, but in the future upgrade the video card here a overclockeking configure for $673 and you can easy add what monitor you want also can change the case(maybe the k60 but it the same thing only more expensive), the cooler if you have a preference( for $30 more a noctua) and get a bigger ssd for 100 bucks i5 2500k http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072 $220 asrock p67 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157230 $110 Kingston HyperX 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104266&cm_sp=Cat_Memory-_-Daily_Deal-_-20-104-266 $49 LIAN LI Lancool PC-K58 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112237 $60 COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065 $28 SAMSUNG 470 Series MZ-5PA064B/AM 2.5" 64GB SATA II http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147124 $120 SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185 $60 Sony Optiarc CD/DVD Burner http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118039#top $20 sata cable http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812816062 $6
Thanks, I have a couple questions though.
I'm not entirely against overclocking but I don't think it's something I'm going to jump to right away. Is it worth the extra $60 or so versus buying a i5-2500 (on special) and a non-overclocking motherboard, given my longer upgrade cycle? I'd likely overclock in a year or two when my processor is starting to be outgunned by newer models; I don't know how long it would make my PC competitive for.
I was planning on giving my current system to a fairly light PC user. My PSU is supposed to be fairly reliable, but I've been running it almost 24/7 for the last four years. Since the my current PC is still going to see some (lighter) use, is it worth the hassle to salvage the PSU when I'm going to need one for my new build? Especially considering it has already been running for years?
I can see pros and cons to both sides.
On the plus side, I could get away with buying a cheaper PSU, while buying a comparable PSU for my new PC would likely cost around $100, I think (after rebates and such.) On the negative side, I'd have to install the new PSU into the old PC, I may not have a ton of spare cables that the PSU originally came with, and since it has already been running for four years, I personally have no idea how much longer I can expect from it running most of the time.
And finally, is this a good deal to upgrade to: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009255&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL082311&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL082311-_-EMC-082311-Index-_-LCDMonitors-_-24009255-L0D ? Or should I be looking for something better?
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I've had pretty good experiences with the corsair builder series putting them in 3 computers. I'd say it's a good deal for $30.
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so no fek - what are the stats of your current psu that you're thinking about re-using?
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On August 24 2011 05:55 ensign_lee wrote:I've had pretty good experiences with the corsair builder series putting them in 3 computers. I'd say it's a good deal for $30.
Well, they're budget units both in construction and price, but you get pretty long sleeved cables and actually very good performance at that price point. Even for $50 it's a good option.
Corsair CX430 V2 is the only one in the series to have been reviewed (see here: 1, 2, 3, 4), but it's based on decently-known CWT DSAII platform that can do 500W certainly. I think there's a review of an Enermax NAXN 80+ 600W that's the same design and would be the same as the CX600 V2, and that unit's fine, so no reason to suspect the CX500 V2 would have issues.
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On August 24 2011 05:48 So no fek wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Thanks, I have a couple questions though. I'm not entirely against overclocking but I don't think it's something I'm going to jump to right away. Is it worth the extra $60 or so versus buying a i5-2500 (on special) and a non-overclocking motherboard, given my longer upgrade cycle? I'd likely overclock in a year or two when my processor is starting to be outgunned by newer models; I don't know how long it would make my PC competitive for. I was planning on giving my current system to a fairly light PC user. My PSU is supposed to be fairly reliable, but I've been running it almost 24/7 for the last four years. Since the my current PC is still going to see some (lighter) use, is it worth the hassle to salvage the PSU when I'm going to need one for my new build? Especially considering it has already been running for years? I can see pros and cons to both sides. On the plus side, I could get away with buying a cheaper PSU, while buying a comparable PSU for my new PC would likely cost around $100, I think (after rebates and such.) On the negative side, I'd have to install the new PSU into the old PC, I may not have a ton of spare cables that the PSU originally came with, and since it has already been running for four years, I personally have no idea how much longer I can expect from it running most of the time. And finally, is this a good deal to upgrade to: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009255&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL082311&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL082311-_-EMC-082311-Index-_-LCDMonitors-_-24009255-L0D ? Or should I be looking for something better?
OC'ing: The extra cost will be a HSF ($30) + mobo (~$30-50 more for P67 over H61/67) + 2500k vs 2500 ($10-20?) so around $70-100. My opinion is that if you don't/won't do anything now or in the foreseeable future that requires OC'ing (such as playing SC2 on Ultra 2v2 or bigger games - without minimum FPS dropping below 30), then it's probably not necessary. But you'll have to decide.
A good new PSU that will power your system now and probably in the near future with ugprades, is around $50, maybe even a lil less.
I've got an Acer 20" 1600x900 monitor with otherwise similar specs (5ms response, 1000:1 contrast) and it's nice. I got it for $100. Not sure about its reliability, or if there are better monitors at that price point though.
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@So no fek: The only person who can tell you if a monitor is good for you is you. Most people here will strongly suggest going to a physical store to compare models and brands, and then look for a better price online.
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ensign_lee: It's a 4 year old Corsair 620w modular PSU; I believe the model is HX. (Link here.)
Wabbit: I don't mind paying the extra money up front if it will give my PC a couple extra months of staying competitive down the line.
As far as the PSU goes, yeah I've seen a lot of models recommended. Was just browsing Newegg and comparing to the specs of my current supply; the closest I could get was a Corsair 650w modular that goes for ~$100. But I'm sure I don't need a modular supply, nor do I think I need 650w. I'll probably go with the Antec supply I've seen listed in the last few builds.
JingleHell: True enough, I should probably do that. I bought my current monitor in store 4 years back and haven't really been pleased with it. But I was a lot less informed then and I took the advice of the sales guy without doing any research online.
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I never trust a sales person. Ever. Research the basics, learn what features you want (refresh rate, response time, etc.) and then go find things that are within your standards, slightly above your price point, (it should be cheaper online) and decide what looks best.
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On August 24 2011 06:51 So no fek wrote:
Wabbit: I don't mind paying the extra money up front if it will give my PC a couple extra months of staying competitive down the line.
As far as the PSU goes, yeah I've seen a lot of models recommended. Was just browsing Newegg and comparing to the specs of my current supply; the closest I could get was a Corsair 650w modular that goes for ~$100. But I'm sure I don't need a modular supply, nor do I think I need 650w. I'll probably go with the Antec supply I've seen listed in the last few builds.
I was in the same boat as you about the i5 2500k, but it ended up being an easy decision for me because of several reasons. 1) I like tinkering  2) I could afford the extra $70 3) I knew the benchmarks for SC2 and I wanted to have a strong minimum FPS for 2v2's, which basically requires OC'ing.(Edit: when playing @ Extreme settings) 4) A "safe" ~30% OC gives nearly 30% extra performance in CPU-bottlenecked tasks, a reasonable "lifespan" extension - I strongly suspect I won't be upgrading my CPU or CPU+Mobo for 5 years
As far as PSU goes, an OC'd 2500k uses less than its max TDP of 95W, and a GTS 450 probably around 100W, both under full load, and other components add a negligible amount - say 50W extra for everything else via the 12V rails, so even a quality ~400W unit will suffice, but you may want to get a 450W-500W if you plan to upgrade the GPU to a hungrier one that might use up to 200W (probably around 150 though), especially if OC'd.
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Alright, decided I don't really need to overclock now and it would be nice to save some money. You mentioned that the i5-2500 is a good deal, JingleHell?
I switched around the components suggested for me above a bit, and came up with this:
i5 2500 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115073
Corsair 600w PSU + Asus H67 combo for $140 - $20 MIR http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.703462
Kingston HyperX 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104266&cm_sp=Cat_Memory-_-Daily_Deal-_-20-104-266 $49
LIAN LI Lancool PC-K58 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112237 $60
SAMSUNG 470 Series MZ-5PA064B/AM 2.5" 64GB SATA II http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147124 $120
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185 $60
Sony Optiarc CD/DVD Burner http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118039#top $20
sata cable http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812816062 $6
If I go with that build, I should also switch out the memory too, right? Memory standard of the motherboard I listed says 1333/1066. So I should just switch to the $40 G-skill set, or something.
Wabbit: Yeah, you're right. I probably could afford it, but keeping costs down would also be nice too. I'm not really big on multiplayer games myself, though I do imagine myself playing some fairly intensive single player games. Would probably save me some money in the long run to go with the 2500k, but if I really like building my PC this time around, there's no reason I can't include a similar processor in my next build a few years down the line.
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@So no fek
In that case, yeah, I don't see why you wouldn't be able to use it for your new configuration. I mean, unless you're doing crossfire/SLI, you're not even going to come close to its capacity (A 6970, a super power hungry single card will only bring pwoer consumption to about 350W with an i5-2500k).
If you're giving your old computer to a friend, then yeah, a smaller power supply would be just fine. Another poster in this thread pointed out a corsair 500W for $30 that would be more than enough for your friend.
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Yeah, for only $5 over a 2400, the 2500 non-k with promo code (you have to sign up for email deals to be able to use the code, and it's a 2 day deal that started last night at midnight) is absolutely worth it for a system you don't intend to OC. At the usual difference of ~$30-35, it's much more of a tossup for only 200Mhz, but for $5, I can't imagine any reason not to.
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On August 24 2011 05:48 So no fek wrote:Show nested quote +On August 24 2011 01:01 CuraOh wrote:On August 23 2011 16:17 So no fek wrote:Eh, what the hell. You guys have been a great help the last couple of days, so I have a fairly general idea of what I want to do, but it wouldn't hurt to get some more feedback. + Show Spoiler [Questions] +What is your budget?
Up to $1000ish. Maybe a little over, but I won't complain if it's under.
What is your resolution?
1680 x 1050 But it's the maximum resolution on my current 4 year old monitor. I'd be more than happy to take some monitor recommendations as well, either included in the budget or outside of it.
What are you using it for?
Gaming mainly, but no encoding or anything along those lines. Don't know if this is really relevant, but I do like tabbing out while gaming and browsing the net and such... and I tend to be terrible at tab management, so it's not unusual for me to have 50-60 Chrome tabs open, with a game and WMP or something.
What is your upgrade cycle?
Probably 2+ years, but I'd probably upgrade key parts, if possible, as time went along before building a new PC completely.
When do you plan on building it?
Probably order all the parts within the next week or two.
Do you plan on overclocking?
I was thinking about it, but for this build I'm fine with keeping costs down and going with the i5-2400.
Do you need an Operating System?
Should be able to get a student copy for $30.
Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire?
Nope.
CrossFire and SLI are powerful solutions that allow higher performance, but in order to utilize them, we have to choose motherboards and PSUs that can support the increased demands that Crossfire and SLI place on your components.
Where are you buying your parts from?
Newegg probably. I can utilize Fry's ads should they have anything good, but generally they're more expensive.
+ Show Spoiler [other info] + - Case wise I'm leaning towards the Lancool K-58/60. Though if you have a better recommendation, even if it's a bit pricier, I'd consider it. Better as in the important aspects anyway, and not necessarily aesthetics. I'd probably consider using whatever case I get in my next build, unless cases change drastically in the next two years, so I'd definitely like something that will last.
- Before I thought about building a new PC entirely, I upgraded my video card based off the recommendations for my resolution in the OP. I bought an EVGA GTX 460 1GB SE. I just bought it a few months ago, so I'd definitely consider using it until a new line of cards comes out, if you guys think it will do the job. However, having read some comments in this thread the last few days, it's apparently a terrible card... so I'll take recommendations either way.
- A SSD/storage drive is rhttp://www.teamliquid.net/forum/postmessage.php?quote=10078&topic_id=137554ecommended, right? I'd be willing to include that in my budget.
And just out of curiosity, what are the benefit/disadvantages to a modular PSU, other than cabling? My current PSU is a Corsair 620 HX and I know it's modular.
On a completely unrelated note, a house across my street is on fire right now. Or rather, there's a ton of firemen/emergency services putting it out now. Thanks for all your help, guys! i think you should keep the video card and the power supply, but in the future upgrade the video card here a overclockeking configure for $673 and you can easy add what monitor you want also can change the case(maybe the k60 but it the same thing only more expensive), the cooler if you have a preference( for $30 more a noctua) and get a bigger ssd for 100 bucks i5 2500k http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072 $220 asrock p67 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157230 $110 Kingston HyperX 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104266&cm_sp=Cat_Memory-_-Daily_Deal-_-20-104-266 $49 LIAN LI Lancool PC-K58 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112237 $60 COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065 $28 SAMSUNG 470 Series MZ-5PA064B/AM 2.5" 64GB SATA II http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147124 $120 SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185 $60 Sony Optiarc CD/DVD Burner http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118039#top $20 sata cable http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812816062 $6 Thanks, I have a couple questions though. I'm not entirely against overclocking but I don't think it's something I'm going to jump to right away. Is it worth the extra $60 or so versus buying a i5-2500 (on special) and a non-overclocking motherboard, given my longer upgrade cycle? I'd likely overclock in a year or two when my processor is starting to be outgunned by newer models; I don't know how long it would make my PC competitive for. I was planning on giving my current system to a fairly light PC user. My PSU is supposed to be fairly reliable, but I've been running it almost 24/7 for the last four years. Since the my current PC is still going to see some (lighter) use, is it worth the hassle to salvage the PSU when I'm going to need one for my new build? Especially considering it has already been running for years? I can see pros and cons to both sides. On the plus side, I could get away with buying a cheaper PSU, while buying a comparable PSU for my new PC would likely cost around $100, I think (after rebates and such.) On the negative side, I'd have to install the new PSU into the old PC, I may not have a ton of spare cables that the PSU originally came with, and since it has already been running for four years, I personally have no idea how much longer I can expect from it running most of the time. And finally, is this a good deal to upgrade to: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009255&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL082311&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL082311-_-EMC-082311-Index-_-LCDMonitors-_-24009255-L0D ? Or should I be looking for something better?
the problem with the i5-2500 is that have a limited posible of overclocking that is because have the multiplier blocked see this post on overclockers http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/912968-i5-2500-vs-i5-2500k.html still if you dont go to overlock right know buy the i5 2500k is only a few bucks
the asrock p67 has nice feature like sata 3 and usb 3.0 you can still found motherboard with that features but are in the range of $80~$90 even $100 is your decision what motherboard you want
you can remove the heatsink and buying in the future
and i recomend this power suply http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207013 is a rebranded seasonic like you have (620hx) and its better than cx600 v2 is not modular but still good
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On August 24 2011 07:13 So no fek wrote:
If I go with that build, I should also switch out the memory too, right? Memory standard of the motherboard I listed says 1333/1066. So I should just switch to the $40 G-skill set, or something.
yeah i didnt saw this memory go for it http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231426
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