EPTComputer Build Resource Thread - Page 1357
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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. | ||
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Rachnar
France1526 Posts
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wei2coolman
United States60033 Posts
Also any reason why lga1366 socket went extinct?  | ||
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RiceAgainst
United States1849 Posts
I'm starting to feel that I should just buy the $160 7850 and throw it into my dad's i5 2500 just to get this over with. Problem is, his PC was prebuilt so there's all these random parts/brands I've never heard of (i.e. MOBO is Pegatron??? 2AB6). Let's go back to my ~$450 build. I'm certain about these parts: XFX HD7850 $160 CX430 $45 CM Elite 430 $40 $50 MIR for all of these. Then I can spend between $200 to $300 for my CPU/MOBO/RAM. Option 1) i3 3240 + MSI H61 is $170 at Fry's, then I can pick up 4GB RAM for ~$25 on Newegg, making my total roughly $400 after rebates, taxes not included. Option 2) i5 3350P $180 + B75 $60 + $25 RAM, for a total of $450 after rebates, taxes not included. Option 3) unlocked i5 $200 + budget Z77 $80 + $25 RAM + $30 HSF, for a total of $530 after rebated, taxes not included. Which will give me the best performance for my money? I know overclocking the i5 can be worth loads, especially if I OC the RAM too, but do I really need that much performance for games I'm playing/planning on playing? I can get an i5 which is a boost over an i3 but my MOBO will be crappy. Or, I can have the cheapest option which should pretty much play anything that isn't too heavy on the CPU, though it has 4 threads. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
On January 21 2013 11:12 Belial88 wrote: It's money. Unless you are living paycheck to paycheck, it's the price. It's $25 to me, at the end of the month that money is back to pay rent or whatever. Assuming you are that tied for cash, which you probably aren't if you are building a computer like this. A rebate is nothing to sneeze at, it's worth it's value. What, are you sending newegg an envelope of cash for your order, you aren't using a card, and simply don't have the cash to go over a certain amount for the month? It's pretty damn obvious why you should not mention a price after mail in rebate and omit the after mail in rebate part. It's downright misleading. Mail in rebates adds up, the postage for mail adds up (unless sending mail in the US is free), you taking off 99 cents adds up, and some people do pay tax. Let's not forget the possibility of it getting lost and being rejected. On January 21 2013 11:40 wei2coolman wrote: Oh, alright, thanks. I'll keep that in mind. Damn, i don't remember there being that many parts/versions back when I built my computer... the i7 series was pretty clear cut with the 9XX naming system >.< Also any reason why lga1366 socket went extinct? New architectures often require new pin layouts. | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
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Gumbi
Ireland463 Posts
On January 21 2013 12:10 Belial88 wrote: It's pretty obvious when they look it up that there's a rebate, and it's been mentioned many times that its after rebate. It's not 'downright misleading', quit with the baiting. Postage for mail is cents, tax is a bigger cost and there's obviously taxes to all of this. Belittle rebates as much as you want, even 50% of the rebate value, the cx series, for example, is the best psu to get right now due to costs. It's better than recommending an earthwatts with no rebate at $45+. It's not nit-picking. You constantly get called out on stuff, and you always dodge the accusations. Like when more than half your recommendations were second hand, you were called on it, you denied it.You were quoted saying it. You chose to ignore this in your following posts. You ignored the comments regarding the round down (as opposed to the nearest dollar, ie up). I've never posted a MIR, as I'm, from Ireland, but from what I've read, they're not totally reliable, and one is liable to not end up receiving it. Honestly, you'e very mis-leading in a lot of your posts, and it's pretty irresponsible. You put yourself in a position of authority when you post buid suggestions to people. And you're abusing that authority with your propositions. Edit: See above for further confirmation. | ||
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Alryk
United States2718 Posts
It's much less misleading, because not everybody has the patience, or cares enough, to send their rebates in. (And don't tell me everybody does, because I had a friend just ignore 50$ in MIR) | ||
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Craton
United States17254 Posts
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
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Craton
United States17254 Posts
Right now I'm researching the h100i and having it as a 4 fan push-pull configuration, but I can't really find anything on how you'd go about installing the extra fans (or I suppose more importantly how it actually gets mounted on the case at the end of the day). I also ran across something that seemed to indicate you may need an extra screw kit for this? Any idea on a simple guide / video that explains the basics of installing the 4 fan setup on the radiator and mounting it to the case? | ||
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iTzSnypah
United States1738 Posts
On January 21 2013 18:40 Craton wrote: I'm a complete novice when it comes to water cooling solutions (including closed loop ones). Right now I'm researching the h100i and having it as a 4 fan push-pull configuration, but I can't really find anything on how you'd go about installing the extra fans (or I suppose more importantly how it actually gets mounted on the case at the end of the day). I also ran across something that seemed to indicate you may need an extra screw kit for this? Any idea on a simple guide / video that explains the basics of installing the 4 fan setup on the radiator and mounting it to the case? For around the same price as the H100i with 4 fans you can have a custom loop that you can expand. Also it will perform better because the h100i uses Ethylene Glycol while a custom loop uses distilled water. XSPC Raystorm 750 RS240 Kit $144.99 All-in-one coolers aren't good value. EDIT: You would be better off with going high end air (Noctua D14 or similiar) than a H100i. | ||
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Craton
United States17254 Posts
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Rollin
Australia1552 Posts
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llIH
Norway2143 Posts
First of all. CPU technology is superb. The newest i7 processors barely need overclock. And even if you overclock, you do not need liquid. They can overclock fine on air. There are a lot of very good air coolers on the market today. Especially Noctua. Liquid cooling custom is very expensive too. And takes more time to assemble (leak test, pressure measurements, flow measurements etc.). For my next pc. I'm going all air. Or I am buying a pre-built liquid cooler. But I honestly think I will not have to overclock so save money on that and buy a better chair or something that I really need. I just wanted to make sure everyone knew. Cooling doesn't make your pc faster. It's the added frequency on the CPU that makes it faster. Added frequency needs more voltage to keep stable. Added voltage makes the CPU more hot. And you need to keep the CPU from overheating. I think a lot of stores and sellers trick people into believing that it is the cooling that makes the pc better or faster. | ||
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Coil1
128 Posts
800$-1000$ What is your resolution? 1600x900 What are you using it for? Mostly gaming. I don't do photoshop or similar things. Streaming is a possibility but not a concern. What is your upgrade cycle? 3-4 years When do you plan on building it? I plan to order the parts as soon as the list is finalized. Do you plan on overclocking? No Do you need an Operating System? No Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire? No Where are you buying your parts from? Newegg but this is mostly because I'm not sure what other good hardware sites are out there. If there's other stores you guy recommend I'm all for it. I'd like to thank you all in advance for this. I've been stuck on this horrible little mini-computer for a while now and it'll feel good to have a good machine again. | ||
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TheSwamp
United States1497 Posts
On January 18 2013 07:23 TheSwamp wrote: Hi guys. I really have no clue when it comes to pricing or parts. I opened a thread about upgrading my CPU and motherboard not too long ago, but unexpected expenses came up and I was unable to buy what was suggested. I now have enough money for a completely new build. I live right by a microcenter, but if it's better to buy online that's fine too. What is your budget? $1100 What is your resolution? 1920 x 1080 What are you using it for? Mostly SC2 some CSGO and hopefully Planetside 2 (My current PC can't handle its awesomeness.) What is your upgrade cycle? 2-4 years When do you plan on building it? Sometime this month. Do you plan on overclocking? No Do you need an Operating System? Yes, but that's included in my budget. Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire? No Where are you buying your parts from? Microcenter Edit: Spelling Edit #2: I forgot to mention that I'm going to keep my current hard drive for storage and would like an SSD for OS and some games. Hate to quote my own post, but it seems I posted right before a pretty intense discussion. | ||
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wei2coolman
United States60033 Posts
Also, since 2500k is sandy bridge, and I would like to OC it, is it necessary to get the z77? | ||
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MisterFred
United States2033 Posts
On January 22 2013 01:41 Coil1 wrote: What is your budget? 800$-1000$ + Show Spoiler + What is your resolution? 1600x900 What are you using it for? Mostly gaming. I don't do photoshop or similar things. Streaming is a possibility but not a concern. What is your upgrade cycle? 3-4 years When do you plan on building it? I plan to order the parts as soon as the list is finalized. Do you plan on overclocking? No Do you need an Operating System? No Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire? No Where are you buying your parts from? Newegg but this is mostly because I'm not sure what other good hardware sites are out there. If there's other stores you guy recommend I'm all for it. I'd like to thank you all in advance for this. I've been stuck on this horrible little mini-computer for a while now and it'll feel good to have a good machine again. i5-3470 ($190) http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=72279&vpn=BX80637I53470&manufacture=Intel&promoid=1338 MSI B75 mATX mobo ($70) http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=75732&vpn=B75MA-P45&manufacture=MSI/MicroStar 2x4gb 1600mhz RAM ($39) http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=74758&vpn=PV38G160C9K&manufacture=Patriot HIS 7870 ($230, $20 rebate) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161404 Bit Fenix Outlaw Case ($48) http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=63255&vpn=BFC-OLW-100-KKN1-RP&manufacture=BitFenix&promoid=1395 XFX Pro 550w ($64, $10 rebate) Samsung 840 120gb SSD ($100) http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=77210&vpn=MZ-7TD120BW&manufacture=Samsung Memory & Storage&promoid=1338 Seagate Barracuda 2TB HDD ($90) - the 1TB version is $20 less. http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=66010&vpn=ST2000DM001&manufacture=Seagate&promoid=1338 DVD-burner ($16) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827151256 Total: $847, not counting rebates or potential tax. Note that the video card might be a bit overpowered for your resolution, not that there's anything wrong with that. | ||
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