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United States24613 Posts
On July 29 2009 01:35 Empyrean wrote: When I first read this thread, I thought it was going to be about the actual clubs like Bridgewater Golf Club or something, not the sticks you use to hit golf balls with XD Haha yeah that confusion Comes up a bit. There are several clubs within walking distance (barely) of my house actually, but I think they are very expensive (not sure since they don't advertise their rates). There are probably about 30 clubs withing a 30 minute drive of here!
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off topic but,
289 is your high game? that's amazing (just read your sig lol), if i may ask, how'd you miss 300?
@micronesia btw
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United States24613 Posts
On July 29 2009 05:04 jonnyp wrote: off topic but,
289 is your high game? that's amazing (just read your sig lol), if i may ask, how'd you miss 300?
@micronesia btw 10 in a row, then a 9 spare.
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Go Callaway man ~ My dad used to play with that.
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On July 29 2009 05:31 micronesia wrote:Show nested quote +On July 29 2009 05:04 jonnyp wrote: off topic but,
289 is your high game? that's amazing (just read your sig lol), if i may ask, how'd you miss 300?
@micronesia btw 10 in a row, then a 9 spare. really off topic, but thats brutal man. sorry to hear that
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United States24613 Posts
On July 29 2009 08:04 Pawsom wrote:Show nested quote +On July 29 2009 05:31 micronesia wrote:On July 29 2009 05:04 jonnyp wrote: off topic but,
289 is your high game? that's amazing (just read your sig lol), if i may ask, how'd you miss 300?
@micronesia btw 10 in a row, then a 9 spare. really off topic, but thats brutal man. sorry to hear that Oh it wasn't bad at all. The bowling alley was empty so I didn't end up with like 100 people watching me for the last frame or two. My high prior than that was a 279 so I was still very happy with a 289.
My friend has had several 299s including one during the sanctioned league lol
Although he's had a couple of unofficial 300s.
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United States24613 Posts
On July 28 2009 19:04 thedeadhaji wrote: It's VERY likely that the thing you need to do the most is regrip your irons or sandpaper them down so they are tacky again. Having out of shape grips is literally the worst thing you can have, muchmoreso than an outdated set of clubs. Ah interesting. I hadn't thought about the grips that much, but let me look into that now.
If you're just getting back into golf, then your #1 priority is building yoru swing and sharpening your shortgame. Ratio of practice time, if you are serious about improving, should be AT LEAST 70% into shortgame and 30% into fullswing, and honestly for 99% of amateurs, should actually be closer to 90/10. This advice reminds me of when I was interested in Go, the board game, and a good player told me I should play like 1000 games before I do anything else. He said I needed me to gain the experience of playing a lot of games before I started reviewing games, discussing strategy and joseki, etc. I told him I didn't think that was what I wanted to do since I wasn't all that serious to which he responded that I should not question his teaching strategies and how he had gotten them from a pro. Meanwhile, I sorta quit go after that.
If my goal is to become as good as possible then I fully understand your point about focusing on short game. My understanding is that the difference between a scratch golfer and a pro is 99% short game. However, the difference between going to a golf course and doing all right VS embarrassing yourself with complete mishits etc has a much more long-game heavy ratio.
There are one or two like 45 minutes away, but none reasonably close by. The guy I'm working with is not listed. I'm not sure how to truly evaluate how good he is, but so far I am very satisfied at least.
Otherwise, see if there are 'academy' type places under reknown teachers such as David Leadbetter, Jim Mclean, any of the Harmon brothers, Jim Flick, etc. I don't know how to do this.
You honestly only need to consider buying woods if/when you can hit the ball where you want it about 70%+ of the time and can actually control your game. Just play from the whites and honestly the vast majority of courses are easily playable - I can prolly still break 90 with no woods even though my game is in abysmal shape haha. Back when I played I got to the point where I could afford to focus somewhat on woods. I'm confident that I will reach that point soon where I'm confident with all of my shorter clubs. The courses that I have played near my house, with one exception, are rather difficult without woods. While I certainly can afford to de-emphasize woods while I'm doing my first rounds back, I ultimately consider getting woods into my arsenal important.
Also if you dont mind, could you take a pic of your clubs: the clubface, the back, and the grips? + Show Spoiler [clubs] +Here are some shots of some of my clubs. If you need anything else let me know. 7 iron face (from the same set as pw to 3 iron): 7 iron from the back: Grips: 3 wood from my original set: 3 wood face: 3 wood from the back: Random SW I accumulated since I needed one: Random LW I bought a while ago: Random 7W I bought that didn't come with my original set (set came with 1,3,5w):
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thedeadhaji
39489 Posts
On July 29 2009 11:32 micronesia wrote: If my goal is to become as good as possible then I fully understand your point about focusing on short game. My understanding is that the difference between a scratch golfer and a pro is 99% short game. However, the difference between going to a golf course and doing all right VS embarrassing yourself with complete mishits etc has a much more long-game heavy ratio.
I can definitely agree that the long game is... well where the testosterone is P. Plus it's definitely 100x more fun to practice the full swing. (plus your back hurts like a motherfucker after putting for liek 3 horus straight T_T) I do maintain though that you can DEFINITELY embarass the shit out of yourself with an abysmal shortgame, like repeatedly duffing/skulling chips/pitches, not being able to get out of a bunker ever, 5+ putting tough undulating greens, etc. P
There are one or two like 45 minutes away, but none reasonably close by. The guy I'm working with is not listed. I'm not sure how to truly evaluate how good he is, but so far I am very satisfied at least.
You honestly only need to consider buying woods if/when you can hit the ball where you want it about 70%+ of the time and can actually control your game. Just play from the whites and honestly the vast majority of courses are easily playable - I can prolly still break 90 with no woods even though my game is in abysmal shape haha. Back when I played I got to the point where I could afford to focus somewhat on woods. I'm confident that I will reach that point soon where I'm confident with all of my shorter clubs. The courses that I have played near my house, with one exception, are rather difficult without woods. While I certainly can afford to de-emphasize woods while I'm doing my first rounds back, I ultimately consider getting woods into my arsenal important.[/quote]
Sounds reasonable to me. I'd prolly recommend you look through ebay, since there are some SICK deals out there, though you need to be fairly knowledgeable to know what you actually want etc.
Photos
As far as I can tell your LW is 'passable' and your SW needs to be swapped. Though... the grooves tend to bust pretty fast with wedges so you really can't go used. And new costs ~$100 usually so hmm. If you're willing, I'd go with a 56 or 58 degree Cleveland wedge, probably medium bounce of 8 to 10 degrees (bounce is the angle between the leading edge of the club and the very bottom point).
Irons seem ok for now, plz clean them though T_T. On teh course you can use a tee for the grooves, and a wet towel for dirt/grass. At home, I usually go with an old toothbrush and normal handsoap.
Grips dont look too bad from what I can tell - basically if the rubber is still, or if it's really slick, you need to take action. For now, I'd do the toothbrush + handsoap deal to clean it up (you'll prolly be surprised how fucking black the foam will become)
Mmm I can see why you'd want/need new woods. I'd prolly just buy a 5wood and that's prolly enough for now, since there's basically a 5% chance you'd be able to hit a driver straight on the course anyways (and if you don't, that's an auto +3 to your score as you lose your ball and have to retee). Some brands to look for are Callaway, Taylor Made, and maybe Cleveland. I'd prolly advise against Titleist b/c honestly, the aforementioned 3 brands make woods that are more suitable for teh avg golfer I think (and honestly if I had to buy a wood, I'd go Taylor made or Callaway for sure). Find a model that's like 2-5 years old and you'll save mad bucks. I personally LOVE my steelhead+ 5 wood, and it's like 10 years old lol. Fred Couples was actually playing with a woman's 5wood (reshafted) for a while lol - all about how it looks/feels etc.
I'd say dont bother regripping those irons - b/c you may as well just go buy a used set off of ebay for $200 and regrip those when you improve and want to move onto a more proper set.
For reference my set looks like this atm.
Taylor Made R5 Driver Callaway Steelhead+ 5wood Ping i3 irons 3-PW (or Mizuno MP33 irons 3-PW) Titleist Vokey 54 degree wedge Titleist Vokey 60 degree wedge Scotty Cameron Pro Platinum Putter 34"
It's fairly oldschool lol.
For the 14th club I usually stick in a random 3 wood or a Titleist 990 2iron, but I'm not too pleased with either choice - then again I rarely need a 3wood so whatever.
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United States24613 Posts
On July 27 2009 09:39 Lemonwalrus wrote:+ Show Spoiler +It's like sex on a stick. Edit: But on a more serious note, I will casually drop your concerns into conversation at work tomorrow and see what my pros say. Lol I ended up buying this coincidentally. I tried out this, the Taylormade Burner, and another club and the salesman and I agreed I was doing the best with the s9-1. According to the simulator I was hitting them straight 235-250. Not bad considering I haven't even touched a driver in like 4 or 5 years lol.
So 9.5 degree face, stiff shaft s9-1.
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^^Welcome to the club, we meet on tuesdays.
byob.
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