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Lalalaland34502 Posts
On August 03 2020 23:49 Dangermousecatdog wrote:
Thrust it in harder. Sometimes the port is extremely tight on the last millimeter which makes all the difference. I had that problem once, till I pushed it in hard and then the volume was suddenly loud.
Careful with this though, I've seen evidence of traumatic insertions into these ports before and it's not very pleasant.
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Is there any advantage to getting higher quality hdmi cables/ethernet cables if your set up doesn't take advantage of them? (
(I'm talking sepcifications/number not price)
Somebody told me that an 8k hdmi cable is better for gaming on a normal set up because of reduced response time but I did a quick google and didn't see anything indicating that.
I just have hdmi cales with my old systems (none 4k) and 100 ish mb of internet speed atm with a gb router.
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Northern Ireland26354 Posts
On August 04 2020 07:02 Karis Vas Ryaar wrote:
Is there any advantage to getting higher quality hdmi cables/ethernet cables if your set up doesn't take advantage of them? (
(I'm talking sepcifications/number not price)
Somebody told me that an 8k hdmi cable is better for gaming on a normal set up because of reduced response time but I did a quick google and didn't see anything indicating that.
I just have hdmi cales with my old systems (none 4k) and 100 ish mb of internet speed atm with a gb router.
I can’t see that making any kind of difference. Probably one of those odd gamer myths about hardware that does the rounds. The only things (provided one has the minimum hardware for a consistent frame rate and outputting that to a display) that I can think of that actually would impact any kind of input delay would be monitor settings that do some post-processing, although I’ve only really experienced those on televisions rather than computer monitors.
Not really relevant beyond further reading but I think this article explains various cables rather well and succinctly.
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thanks. I kind of figured so because it's the same technology in the cables generally. From one article I found the only thing ethernet would affect is speed of in network or with HDMI possibly things like HDR if you have a tv that supports it. That article didn't explictly say anything about gaming though so thanks
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For residential purposes there's not much difference above cat 5e. Cat 5 peaks at 100mbit/s, 5e at 1000mbit, and 6 at 10gbit. Higher bandwidth, shielded vs shielded, etc. won't have any meaningful impact for typical home use. Those come into play when you're dealing with commercial grade networks where speed and interference can be a problem. Cat 5e is already almost 20 years old, so it's really uncommon to find regular cat 5 cables any more.
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Running into an issue I don't understand.
Backstory: I was playing some sc2 campaign and my screen went grey bar and crashed. When I rebooted my screens no longer work. I am able to plug them into a laptop so it is not an issue with the monitor. I do have integrated graphics, but I thought my video card just died so I decided to finish the level. Crashes again with the same grey bars, but now my integrated graphics don't work either.
When I boot it just shows no input signal on the monitor. How can I get a display hooked up so I can see what is going on or fix this problem? I assume it is something wrong with the video driver, but no idea how to troubleshoot this.
EDIT:
I think I figured out what happened with this. When I booted it went a restore point automatically before the video driver was installed. Not sure why the integrated weren't working when I rebooted last night though, but they work today.
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What is the next reasonable step if my PC doesn't launch, and doesn't give me a beep code telling me what is wrong?
While playing Age of Wonders: Planetfall, everything crashed, and there was a massive cacophony of sound from the speakers. Then, the PC didn't launch and didn't give a beep code. (Asus Mainboard)
For some reason, i decided to disconnect my graphics card. At which point, i got the graphics card missing beep code. So i reconnected the graphics card, and everything worked perfectly again. For about 20 minutes. Then i launched the game again (i know, i am a genius), it crashed, and now i am in the no launch no beep code situation again, and disconnecting the graphics card didn't solve the problem this time.
What are diagnostics steps to take at this point?
Edit: Fans are spinning up, and the lights on the mainboard are alight, too.
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So, additional diagnosis leads me to believe that it may have something to do with my RAM. I got a beep code after removing all ram, and the PC is currently running with only 2 of my 4 ram sticks. So i guess i'll run some memtest86
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Northern Ireland26354 Posts
On August 12 2020 06:45 Simberto wrote:
So, additional diagnosis leads me to believe that it may have something to do with my RAM. I got a beep code after removing all ram, and the PC is currently running with only 2 of my 4 ram sticks. So i guess i'll run some memtest86
Forgive my ignorance but the beeps actually mean something?
This is news to me! Are there different types of beepage for different failures in POST?
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Yes, and they are very, very useful. It depends on the mainboard manufacturer. Beep codes for my Asus mainboard are pretty simple, i know from memory that:
1Long3Short means Something is wrong with your graphics card
1Long2Short repeating means something is wrong with your RAM
You can look this stuff up for your mainboard (usually they stay the same depending on manufacturer). It is amazingly useful for diagnosis on what exactly isn't working. Except if there is none.
I also solved my previous problem: Apparently i somehow managed to slightly loosen one of my RAM sticks. Which lead to this result somehow. Or at least stuff seems to be working again now that i removed them and replaced them into their slots. (I spent a lot of time replacing them one by one to figure out if one of the ram bars or one of the ram slots was damaged...)
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Northern Ireland26354 Posts
Makes a lot of sense Simberto, I mean how else can you diagnose the problem if you’re not getting it to boot to a display! Cheers.
In sad news my graphics card is fucked, but at least the mystery is over. Thanks for the help in the thread all!
Basically my friend ‘matured’ beyond playing games so gave me his card. I couldn’t get it working, sent it back to him and it worked in his rig.
Got it back and tried again to no luck. Shelved the project for many moons (like 2 years) until kiddo wanted me to play Fortnite with him and my old GPU was bottlenecking.
Tried again, disabled integrated graphics and the other suggestions here. Everything but reflashing the motherboard BIOS. Stuck it into a repair place to see what they made of it and it doesn’t work in their rigs at all. Zero charge for when I recovered my rig.
Was told some soldering has gone, GPUs run extremely hot after all and it can technically be repaired but the success rate is low and they wouldn’t recommend it.
I’m assuming they’re telling me the truth here as I’d be happy to get it fixed and pay them for it, but they were quite negative about the prospect of success.
I’m stuck with a card that would perfectly fit my purposes, and am pondering a new build so it would save me a lot of cash given current GPU prices to have one to hand.
Are they correct in this, or is it maybe too specialised a repair for a general place and are there other avenues to explore in terms of repair?
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I don't know about repairing but try calling the graphics card company or submitting a ticket for it and saying you think your card is messed up. I did that when I thought it was my card and they ended up sending me a newer better graphics card and then it ended up not being broken because It was a problem with I think my power supply. Got to keep the newer card. No idea how old your card is but it might be worth a shot unless it's like super super old.
worse case scenario you waste a bit of time. Best case scenario you get a working card.
If it's that old and not originally yours not sure how much success you'd have but it's worth trying. Or have your friend submit a claim if it's originally his. These companies usually live on customer service from my experience.
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I have a super weird issue. I have windows 10 and my mouse and keyboard aren't recognized on my usb 2.0 ports most of the time. Rarely when I boot it they will be recognized and start over on setting up the devices. the ports still work for usb devices so their not entirely bad. the mouse and keyboard still work when I turn on my computer before windows launches and when I plug them into my usb 3.0 ports they seem to work fine every single time. I had the problem a little bit before but it would happen rarely and would fix itself on a restart. I also have one usb port that's been busted for a while but I just learned to live with that.
Is there a fix to this? does it even need to be fixed? I seem to have 0 issues using my 3.0 ports. I tried plugging in an old mouse and same issue.
update. I uninstalled the usb conrollers that were bad and reset and it fixed it at least for now so now I'm just back to the weird usb device not recognized and taking up a port even though I literally have no extra devices plugged in. Still would like to know if there's anything that i can try to stop the 2.0 ports in general from not starting properly.
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got a simple question for anyone whos used the newest versions of outlook
i have an email account that i added onto outlook 2013 perfectly fine.
outlook automatically found the settings and the account was created as an imap account with incoming and outgoing servers as mail.xxxxx.com with no encryption settings.
now i need to add this account to another computer which has a newer outlook version and even though i input the same settings the damn thing wont connect.
the only difference i can notice between the settings it that the newer outlook doesnt even have a function which makes you choose "my outgoing server requires authentication -> use same settings as incoming mail server". i dont know if that makes a difference but thats literally the only thing that is different about the set up.
so why the hell does the new outlook not accept the settings for this account and add it when the 2013 version didnt even require me to input settings at all and did it all on its own.
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I've been researching a lot on smart (camera) doorbells and I can't really seem to find one that fits what I'm after.
Basically, I have two doors that would each have a doorbell, so whatever app / software needs to support that. I do not want cloud streaming/uploading of video, but I do want wifi capabilities and the ability to store footage on another device on the network via wifi, ideally on a rolling loop that deletes footage beyond a certain age. Lastly, I want something that can be viewed continuously via PC with real time streaming.
Anyone know of something?
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Canada11355 Posts
If you suspect that someone has malware of some kind on their computer but their free antivirus and antimalware programs say all clear... What would you do to double triple make sure the computer was clean? Preferably something that doesn't involve purchasing an antivirus program.
The computer in question has done an immense amount of torrenting from public trackers so we could be looking for crypto miners or RATs or anything else
The reason I'm so suspicious of the clean bill of health given by the free AV is the fact that this poor pc has been running win 7 with 0 antivirus or firewall protection for years while torrenting.
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I would probably just try a few more free antivirus/antimalware programs?
Crypto miners should be detectable by watching system (and GPU) load a bit more carefully. Maybe set up something that tracks it for you. If nothing is going on, GPU load should mostly be zero, and CPU load shouldn't be huge either.
If i were really suspicious that weird stuff is going on, i would probably figure out which data i really need on that PC, back it up, format the drive, and do a completely new setup. Not completely certain to get rid of everything, but pretty good for most stuff.
If you got time, you could also just wait a few weeks/months. Virus definitions get updated, but the malware on your computer stays the same once you stop downloading more. So the chance of finding the thing increases over time.
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It's not really that unlikely to go virus-free from torrenting. You can always try other antiviruses as suggested. MalwareBytes is usually my go-to. HijackThis is also useful for getting a more in depth scan of things, but it's a lot harder to parse through to figure out if something is awry. Checking startup programs is another good place to look, since a lot of malware adds itself to that.
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What are the advantageous/disadvantegous of a curved monitor? I was looking at 1440p monitors in case I decide to get the slimmed down xbox version at some point or end up upgrading the old tv I have in my room (long story short area is too small for a 32 inch tv and they don't make smaller tvs with better picture quality.) and all the 144hz ones were either like 330 dollars or way cheaper and curved for some reason. Is there a reason for this and are there any quality changes with a curved monitor?
A somewhat related follow up. The new consoles say 4k@60 hz up to 120 fps. are they really going to be able to hit 120 fps at 4k cause I can't find a great answer. And if they are only able to get to 120 on a lower resolution does that mean I either need two screens or have to get a 4k monitor/tv that can do 120 frames in order to take advantage of both? thanks
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EPT
