EPTSimple Questions Simple Answers - Page 567
| Forum Index > Tech Support |
Poopi
France12911 Posts
| ||
|
Cyro
United Kingdom20326 Posts
On November 13 2015 21:41 Poopi wrote: Problem is my game isn't fluid enough and I don't understand why: in TvZ especially I got a lot of fps drop to 20-30 especially during banelings explosions and stuff, even when not maxed out, and it's quite unplayable. What should I do to fix the issue? What CPU do you have? Answer is probably use a CPU with faster singlethreaded performance. Max or min settings basically doesn't change FPS at all - the settings that change CPU bound FPS are mostly physics, effects, reflections. I play Physics off, reflections off, effects medium for FPS. | ||
|
Poopi
France12911 Posts
I don't think I should have any fps drop at all in 1v1, I used to play WoL and HotS (at release) perfectly fine. When I watch my cores usage in task manager / performance I don't see any core used at 100% yet I have some drops. I got speedtech and C-state disabled in the BIOS (I had bad lags with it enabled). | ||
|
Cyro
United Kingdom20326 Posts
When I watch my cores usage in task manager / performance I don't see any core used at 100% It's displayed differently (so that you can't see that stuff) in windows 8+ | ||
|
Zess
Adun Toridas!9144 Posts
How much does speed/timing matter for this use case? All of the benchmarks seem to be about gaming where speed/timing basically doesn't matter at all. Is that the case here? Should I keep an eye out for 2400 CL9 or just buy the first set of 2x8 that comes on sale? My motherboard is a Z77e-ITX, does memory voltage matter much? I've read that going above 1.5V is not "good" for intel motherboards but that seems like a pretty vague and perhaps voodoo claim. (Context: A lot of the RAM I'm seeing right now for sale is 2x8 2400 CL 11 1.65V) | ||
|
Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
| ||
|
Zess
Adun Toridas!9144 Posts
On November 18 2015 03:44 Ropid wrote: What's your CPU? I don't know if you can use RAM above 1600 MHz without the 3570K or 3770K that can do overclocking. Didn't know that. I have a 3570k! | ||
|
Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
Those 2400MHz are technically overclocking, but that overclocking can be done automatically so it's very simple. There's a setting in the BIOS named "XMP profile" that does this when you enable it. The RAM will run at 1600MHz by default with that setting disabled (or maybe 1333MHz). I think there's a certain chance that 2400MHz is too much for the CPU. You might want to be prepared to have to reduce it to for example 2133MHz manually. The reason is that the parts of the CPU that deal with memory were only slowly improved and getting stronger over the generations. The memory controller inside the i5-2500K was kind of weak, your i5-3570K was better, and this particular RAM here might be intended for the i5-4670K and later. The different RAM speeds are not really noticeable (to a human). You might want to keep that in mind when searching for the best deal and maybe only choose faster RAM over cheaper RAM if the price difference is small (I'm thinking of $5 or so). | ||
Thorakh
Netherlands1788 Posts
I have probably ran the PC like this for a couple of weeks, and I really just randomly checked temps when I noticed this. | ||
|
Cyro
United Kingdom20326 Posts
On November 18 2015 06:22 Thorakh wrote: HWMonitor shows my CPU temps at 95-99C while on load. While this sounds extremely alarming, no throttle is experienced and neither do the fans speed up to levels I have previously experienced when the temperature actually reached 80+ degrees (they sound like 60-70C). Could the sensors have gone faulty? The computer idles at normal temperatures (35-40C). What's also strange is that the temperatures do not go above 99C, but this might be because of a HWMonitor/sensor limitation? Assuming the sensors aren't faulty, what could cause the fans to not max out? I haven't changed any fan settings recently (or ever). I have probably ran the PC like this for a couple of weeks, and I really just randomly checked temps when I noticed this. Check temps with a different program or two. I usually use hwinfo (www.hwinfo.com) | ||
|
Dingodile
4139 Posts
I do not want to pay ~45€ for cheapest 2x4GB DDR3 1333mhz. | ||
|
Cyro
United Kingdom20326 Posts
| ||
|
Thorakh
Netherlands1788 Posts
On November 18 2015 14:23 Cyro wrote: I did and it was the same. First thing I did today was take a look at the heatsink and guess what, it was loose (for whatever reason). My PC has probably been running at close to a 100 degrees Celsius while on load for weeks. Great.Check temps with a different program or two. I usually use hwinfo (www.hwinfo.com) What worries me is that the fans never spun up to max, that's what used to trigger me to check temps in the past. | ||
|
Dingodile
4139 Posts
On November 18 2015 19:24 Cyro wrote: If you have 4GB already it won't cost 45 euros more for 8GB (RAM has excellent resale value if you can't combine) Even at my local pc shop? Never heard that I can sell stuff there. Yes I have 4GB (2x2GB) already and I noticed right now that windows task manager says 3.66GB. Win7 64bit and sc2 32bit. Which one I should buy. 1333mhz cl7? http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/870 Extreme3/?cat=Specifications | ||
|
Cyro
United Kingdom20326 Posts
the speed doesn't matter much for you, ~1600c9 is standard | ||
|
Craton
United States17281 Posts
On November 18 2015 19:31 Thorakh wrote: I did and it was the same. First thing I did today was take a look at the heatsink and guess what, it was loose (for whatever reason). My PC has probably been running at close to a 100 degrees Celsius while on load for weeks. Great. What worries me is that the fans never spun up to max, that's what used to trigger me to check temps in the past. Mmm, CPUs these days (i.e. many years now) usually throttle or power off if too hot. The heatsink being loose doesn't mean it wasn't transferring heat, just that it wasn't doing it effectively. It's certainly possible that most loads were still fine (if hotter than it should've been) and that higher loads ended up throttling back the core to reduce temperatures. I doubt there's any longterm damage. | ||
|
Poopi
France12911 Posts
Double click problem ie. the mouse sometimes "double click by itself" when left-clicking only once. | ||
|
Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
| ||
|
Craton
United States17281 Posts
On November 20 2015 07:54 Poopi wrote: Do you know a fix or workaround, without opening the mouse or something, for double clicks problems? (razer deathadder black edition). It's not happening that much yet, but I had the problem already on another deathadder and it was so bad I couldn't play, so I want to try to fix it asap. Double click problem ie. the mouse sometimes "double click by itself" when left-clicking only once. Don't think there is one. It's usually a hardware failure. It seems to be extremely common with Deathadders. I had one that didn't even last 6 months. | ||
|
Simberto
Germany11804 Posts
On November 20 2015 07:54 Poopi wrote: Do you know a fix or workaround, without opening the mouse or something, for double clicks problems? (razer deathadder black edition). It's not happening that much yet, but I had the problem already on another deathadder and it was so bad I couldn't play, so I want to try to fix it asap. Double click problem ie. the mouse sometimes "double click by itself" when left-clicking only once. I have had the same problem on a different mouse (Roccat Kone (+)) and nothing i found that wasn't hardware related worked. Fiddling with drivers and settings did exactly nothing at all. Things that worked slightly, or for some time: 1) Opening the mouse and putting oil onto the switches (Worked amazingly well for one week, then everything was back to what it was like before) 2) Opening the mouse and taping some thin piece of paper or tape (Not thick ductape) onto the switches. You need to dose it carefully, but if you do, it works for a while, after which, once again, the problem comes back. In the long term, you are going to need a new mouse. If you still have warranty on yours, use it. If you don't, get a new one. Having experienced this twice on two different 50€+ mice from different manufacturers has stopped me from buying expensive gaming mice. If it is gonna break right after the warranty is gone anyways, i might as well buy a cheaper one. My current one is much cheaper version (Anker precision laser gaming mouse) that as far as i can tell has about the same features that my kone had for a third of the price. I guess i will see in 2 years if the switches are as shitty, but at least i won't have spent that much money. | ||
| ||
