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Cyro
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United Kingdom20345 Posts
Last Edited: 2014-09-26 17:02:01
September 26 2014 16:52 GMT
#10001
On September 27 2014 01:36 miercat wrote:
Show nested quote +
On September 26 2014 23:03 Cyro wrote:
On September 26 2014 12:01 miercat wrote:
I notice when uploading videos (e.g. HD picture files with audio files) to youtube, there is often black bars at the sides or top of the video (the picture does not cover the full entire screen). Is there a way to upload these pics so that the picture fits the full screen(when fullscreen as well), while the quality of the image is not decreased, and the picture is not distorted?


Not unless you cut off part of the image, AFAIK. The player only runs in 16 : 9 aspect ratio


I tried that previously, but maybe I am doing something wrong.

How to cut off correct proportion of an image?


The aspect ratio needs to be 16 : 9

960x540
1280x720
1600x900
1920x1080

etc.


You can open a calculator and type "16/9" which will give you 1.778, then multiply the height of your image with that, and it will tell you the width that it's supposed to be.

Alternatively, divide the width by that value (1.778) and it will tell you the correct height to use
"oh my god my overclock... I got a single WHEA error on the 23rd hour, 9 minutes" -Belial88
Grobyc
Profile Blog Joined June 2008
Canada18410 Posts
Last Edited: 2014-09-26 17:51:32
September 26 2014 17:25 GMT
#10002
I'm planning on getting a new smartphone today on a 2-year plan. I currently don't have a phone. Is there an easier way to determine who to go with in terms of phones available on a 2-year plan, pricing, and plan features aside from looking at all the providers websites or stores individually? Like a site that compares them or pulls up current deals or anything? Looking to make a decision in the next couple hours.

For reference, I live in BC, Canada.

edit: found this, not sure how reliable it is. Seems to be pulling up basically the same info as this as well.
If you watch Godzilla backwards it's about a benevolent lizard who helps rebuild a city and then moonwalks into the ocean.
Durak
Profile Blog Joined January 2008
Canada3685 Posts
September 26 2014 18:32 GMT
#10003
On September 25 2014 04:21 Nyxisto wrote:
I am somehow not able to connect my TV with my PC via hdmi. OS: Win 81,64 bit Graphics card is 760 gtx, newest driver 344.11, cable tested with laptop, worked perfectly.

When I first connected the TV to the PC , the driver actually displayed a "digital monitor" in the driver settings, but the TV would show "no signal", no matter how I played around with the settings. Then I went back one driver generation, didn't help, now I'm back to 344.11 and the driver isn't even displaying the monitor anymore. Help would be appreciated.

edit: forget everything, I used the mainboard hdmi port, I'm a fucking idiot


I have a follow up question on this. Is it possible to use the motherboard outputs instead of the video card ones? I have an HDMI port on the motherboard but not my video card and it would be useful to use it for connecting to TVs etc. Can I disable the videocard or switch without removing it?
Myrmidon
Profile Blog Joined December 2004
United States9452 Posts
September 26 2014 19:27 GMT
#10004
Go into BIOS and see if there's an option to enable the integrated graphics.
Craton
Profile Blog Joined December 2009
United States17303 Posts
September 26 2014 23:28 GMT
#10005
Failing that, there are all kinds of adapters, even HDMI to USB ones for those who are totally out of usable graphic card slots (they're not as good as the real thing, but they'll do for simple use like watching videos).
twitch.tv/cratonz
miercat
Profile Joined November 2011
394 Posts
Last Edited: 2014-09-27 05:04:25
September 27 2014 05:03 GMT
#10006
On September 27 2014 01:52 Cyro wrote:
+ Show Spoiler +
On September 27 2014 01:36 miercat wrote:
Show nested quote +
On September 26 2014 23:03 Cyro wrote:
On September 26 2014 12:01 miercat wrote:
I notice when uploading videos (e.g. HD picture files with audio files) to youtube, there is often black bars at the sides or top of the video (the picture does not cover the full entire screen). Is there a way to upload these pics so that the picture fits the full screen(when fullscreen as well), while the quality of the image is not decreased, and the picture is not distorted?


Not unless you cut off part of the image, AFAIK. The player only runs in 16 : 9 aspect ratio


I tried that previously, but maybe I am doing something wrong.

How to cut off correct proportion of an image?


The aspect ratio needs to be 16 : 9

960x540
1280x720
1600x900
1920x1080

etc.


You can open a calculator and type "16/9" which will give you 1.778, then multiply the height of your image with that, and it will tell you the width that it's supposed to be.

Alternatively, divide the width by that value (1.778) and it will tell you the correct height to use


Thanks for the info.
Cyro
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United Kingdom20345 Posts
September 29 2014 00:19 GMT
#10007
I have a z87x-ud3h and an air540 - every single USB right now is usb 3.0 and i need a 2.0 because reasons. Can i fix that by using a different connection from the mobo to the front panel blue slots? It says there's 6x usb2.0 to front panel, but i'm not using them
"oh my god my overclock... I got a single WHEA error on the 23rd hour, 9 minutes" -Belial88
Ropid
Profile Joined March 2009
Germany3557 Posts
Last Edited: 2014-09-29 00:35:21
September 29 2014 00:32 GMT
#10008
For those motherboard headers, you can buy something for the back of the case like this:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/InLine®-slot-bracket-10pin-connector/dp/B000VFE230/

This adapter here seems to be for what your original question was:

http://www.cclonline.com/product/102304/USB-2-0-header-to-USB-3-0-port/USB-Cables/USB-2-0-header-to-USB-3-0-port/CAB2485/
"My goal is to replace my soul with coffee and become immortal."
Cyro
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United Kingdom20345 Posts
Last Edited: 2014-09-29 01:06:41
September 29 2014 01:04 GMT
#10009
On September 29 2014 09:32 Ropid wrote:
For those motherboard headers, you can buy something for the back of the case like this:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/InLine®-slot-bracket-10pin-connector/dp/B000VFE230/

This adapter here seems to be for what your original question was:

http://www.cclonline.com/product/102304/USB-2-0-header-to-USB-3-0-port/USB-Cables/USB-2-0-header-to-USB-3-0-port/CAB2485/


Thanks, always helpful :D

I was in the process of discovering that the usb3 connector didn't fit in 2.0 header etc. For my uses, it seems like the extra 2x slot bracket would be better - i assume i can just plug it into the header and go, ignoring all the other slots etc? I didn't check the wiring around the two usb 3.0's on the front and i'm not sure what to do with the other adapter (usb 2.0 to those ports) exactly, it was too dark for me to see stuff without unplugging everything and moving entire case somewhere else at 2am.

Also i assume that there is no obvious software solution to this. I'l order whatever solution in the morning because i'm curious to see if i can make this stuff work, and of a few other things involving usb3 vs 2 at least
"oh my god my overclock... I got a single WHEA error on the 23rd hour, 9 minutes" -Belial88
Ropid
Profile Joined March 2009
Germany3557 Posts
Last Edited: 2014-09-29 01:40:15
September 29 2014 01:40 GMT
#10010
In the BIOS menus EHCI means USB 2.0, XHCI means USB 3.0. What you can do as an experiment is disable the XHCI controller in the BIOS. Then all ports will run through the EHCI controller and all ports on your PC will be like USB 2.0 ports.

With regards to software, everything's intended to be automatic. The Intel chipset has a USB 2.0 (EHCI) controller showing up in Windows, and it has a USB 3.0 (XHCI) controller showing up in Windows. If you plug a USB 2.0 device into a USB 3.0 port, from the point of view of Windows, even though the device is plugged into something USB 3.0, it will not get sent stuff from the XHCI controller. It will instead get it from the EHCI one, the same EHCI controller that will deal with those physical USB 2.0 ports you want to expose with that £4 slot bracket.

If you have a USB 3.0 device and want to force it to run as USB 2.0, you can't do that in software I think. You could maybe try to disable the XHCI device in the Windows Device Manager?
"My goal is to replace my soul with coffee and become immortal."
Cyro
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United Kingdom20345 Posts
September 29 2014 04:10 GMT
#10011
What you can do as an experiment is disable the XHCI controller in the BIOS. Then all ports will run through the EHCI controller and all ports on your PC will be like USB 2.0 ports.


I've done that, but i got the impression that people were disabling XHCI -and- only using 2.0 ports. I'l look a bit deeper
"oh my god my overclock... I got a single WHEA error on the 23rd hour, 9 minutes" -Belial88
felisconcolori
Profile Blog Joined October 2011
United States6169 Posts
September 29 2014 22:25 GMT
#10012
On September 29 2014 13:10 Cyro wrote:
Show nested quote +
What you can do as an experiment is disable the XHCI controller in the BIOS. Then all ports will run through the EHCI controller and all ports on your PC will be like USB 2.0 ports.


I've done that, but i got the impression that people were disabling XHCI -and- only using 2.0 ports. I'l look a bit deeper


Kindof surprising - my board has a USB 3.0 header for the front of the case, but there are still 2xUSB 2.0 connections on the backplate (I assume for Mouse and Keyboard, as I previously had mine plugged into 3.0 slots and that went... poorly... when I accidentally my USB 3.0 drivers.)

I'm told USB 3.0 is backwards compatable, but so far nearly all the 2.0 devices I've plugged directly into the 3.0 header ports wind up reported as "Unknown USB devices" unless I pump them through a 2.0 hub.
Yes, I email sponsors... to thank them. Don't post drunk, kids. My king, what has become of you?
Craton
Profile Blog Joined December 2009
United States17303 Posts
September 29 2014 22:53 GMT
#10013
I haven't had any issues with compatibility and I use a lot of devices on multiple machines both 2.0 in 3.0 ports and 3.0 in 2.0 ports.

Basically the only issues I have had is some USB 3.0 ports not working because my mobo has two sets of chipsets and I only had the drivers for the Intel ones.
twitch.tv/cratonz
felisconcolori
Profile Blog Joined October 2011
United States6169 Posts
Last Edited: 2014-09-29 23:34:21
September 29 2014 23:31 GMT
#10014
On September 30 2014 07:53 Craton wrote:
I haven't had any issues with compatibility and I use a lot of devices on multiple machines both 2.0 in 3.0 ports and 3.0 in 2.0 ports.

Basically the only issues I have had is some USB 3.0 ports not working because my mobo has two sets of chipsets and I only had the drivers for the Intel ones.


Hmm. Could be my issue. I used the AMD DriverCleaner to nuke everything AMD from my Gigabyte Z87-D3H board while trying to fix an issue with my R9 280x (ended up RMA'ing it but it works now so eh) and it was frustrating because I lost all 3.0 ports. An Intel driver got back my 3.0 ports, but I might not have all the drivers I need. I'll look into it.

... except Gigabyte says only the Intel drivers are needed. I have no clue then.
Yes, I email sponsors... to thank them. Don't post drunk, kids. My king, what has become of you?
Cyro
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United Kingdom20345 Posts
Last Edited: 2014-09-29 23:59:23
September 29 2014 23:39 GMT
#10015
You supposedly can't manually set polling rates on the 3.0 ports which was what triggered me looking into it. A few people were reporting running 1000hz on some Wacom tablets which probably feels awesome compared to ~133. Aside from just input lag there are other concerns for running a polling rate on your input devices that's lower than your refresh rate
"oh my god my overclock... I got a single WHEA error on the 23rd hour, 9 minutes" -Belial88
HackBenjamin
Profile Blog Joined January 2011
Canada1094 Posts
October 01 2014 00:43 GMT
#10016
I'm looking for an upgrade for my Geforce 460 GTX. I have 5 kids and money is tight. What is the best bang for my buck in the $100-$150 range?
Cyro
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United Kingdom20345 Posts
Last Edited: 2014-10-01 01:32:02
October 01 2014 01:27 GMT
#10017
On October 01 2014 09:43 HackBenjamin wrote:
I'm looking for an upgrade for my Geforce 460 GTX. I have 5 kids and money is tight. What is the best bang for my buck in the $100-$150 range?


This, i guess - http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=11610BD1584&vpn=01G-P4-2753-KR&manufacture=EVGA - $119 shipped but it's not a huge upgrade at that price point

Here is relevant page: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/parts/video-card/#c=163,164,142,162,149,168,154,147&sort=a7
"oh my god my overclock... I got a single WHEA error on the 23rd hour, 9 minutes" -Belial88
Ropid
Profile Joined March 2009
Germany3557 Posts
October 01 2014 04:34 GMT
#10018
I'd be very worried about this upgrade. I guess the GTX 460 is still pretty similar to current $100 stuff and it might turn out disappointing.
"My goal is to replace my soul with coffee and become immortal."
Incognoto
Profile Blog Joined May 2010
France10239 Posts
October 01 2014 05:23 GMT
#10019
I'd save up until I could get an R9 270 from either Gigabyte, ASUS, MSI or Sapphire.

Or, if you're not afraid of mail in rebate, there's this, only today apparently, good bang for buck right there:

http://www.ncix.com/detail/powercolor-radeon-r9-270-oc-75-94652-1342.htm?affiliateid=7474144
maru lover forever
mantequilla
Profile Blog Joined June 2012
Turkey781 Posts
October 01 2014 07:45 GMT
#10020
Can someone in GM league take a widely known progamer's nickname?
Age of Mythology forever!
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