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If you use F8 and go to "enable low resolution video" (and having it go to normal mode) does it do the same thing?
I see your onboard is a Nvidia also, GeForce 8200 - I wonder if remnants of one is screwing up the other.
If you get the junky resolution with the card in, it might be better to do that and bear with it and -
download the correct ones on nvidia.com for a GeForce 8200 (But don't run it yet)
Remove the NVIDIA ones you have from Programs and Features in the Control Panel
Shut machine down
remove NVIDIA card
boot normally (and see if you get the ugly screen at least)
Run the file you downloaded.
my 2c
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I can't get into Windows at all anymore, with or without the card. I tried enabling the low resolution video but no dice. I am going through the Repair My Computer options. I don't know that it will help, but at least that's one part of the computer that's working.
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There's probably something out there that you can use to boot from e.g. a USB drive that will clean up Windows video drivers.
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Hmm, well I may have made a mistake. After unsuccessfully uninstalling and reinstalling the Nvidia drivers, I uninstalled everything that said Nvidia on it. I may have gotten rid of something important. I'm going to dl the drivers from HP now. Can you tell me how to install it? I go to the boot menu and boot to the USB or something like that?
Well I fooled around with that and it wouldn't do nothing.
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Yes, I found those, but I still can't figure out how to get them on to the computer. I tried setting the boot priority to the USB but that did nothing as did going into the boot menu and selecting the USB.
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Anyone know why Chrome seem to think I'm on a mobile at times (I use windows 8)? Some sites seem to think I'm on a mobile and redirect me to the mobile version of the sites and I don't have the same problem with firefox.
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Could always get a user agent spoofer and try setting it to a "normal" one.
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So I'm guessing I need to put some sort of OS on my USB so that it can boot to it?
Well I managed to somehow get into the Microsoft Repair Tool and was able to reformat. Probably a better way to do it but at least it's fine for now. I wonder if I should risk trying the damn thing again.
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Maybe someone posted about this earlier, but I've read about drive slowdown issues with samsung evo drives, Samsung is said to be looking into firmware updates, but is it advisable to either go with a different Samsung drive or a brand like crucial atm?
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I wouldn't touch them until that firmware is out. 
About Crucial, the M550 is a bit older and more expensive and seems safe. The MX100 is newer and cheaper and probably too new to say anything. The Crucial drives actually seem better than the 840 EVO to me. The M550 should rather be compared to the 840 Pro and the MX100 is very closely related to the M550.
Crucial, Sandisk, Samsung, Toshiba produce the memory chips in their drives themselves. You'd assume they have access to the sorting process that happens in the factories so the chips used are all best quality. Crucial and Sandisk have to buy controllers from someone else, Samsung and Toshiba can use their own.
The brand new Sandisk Ultra II uses "TLC" NAND like only the problematic Samsung SSD 840 and 840 EVO used until now.
+ Show Spoiler [some rambling] +Right, so it's the 840 and 840 EVO drives that show that issue. Those two are closely related internally. There was a process change and the structures inside the chips shrunk between them, so that might be why the problem seems to show up faster on the 840 EVO compared to the 840. It might be both are being very close to the physical limits and the EVO extra close because of finer structures.
The other line of Samsung drives from around the same time are the 830 and 840 Pro, work differently internally and don't have the problem.
From Crucial, there's the M550 and the MX100. The M550 is out for a longer time and does not seem to show problems. Those two drives are very similar, but the MX100 uses a smaller process for its chips so structures are shrunk and price is cheaper. The M550 uses an older process and might be more robust and is more expensive.
The feature set for the Crucial drives seems a bit more "pro", the MX100 gets everything about that because it's closely related to the M550. They have power loss protection and supposedly robust error correction and have all encryption features (might be interesting if you'd ever want to reuse the drive in a laptop in the future, prevents a thief from looking through your stuff).
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Power loss protection, eh? hmm
I think that's what killed my M500. Well, Crucial was cool about the RMA, they've sent out my new M500.
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UPS for standard PCs aren't too expensive.
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On September 23 2014 23:07 Incognoto wrote:
Power loss protection, eh? hmm
I think that's what killed my M500. Well, Crucial was cool about the RMA, they've sent out my new M500.
Uh... I think that's probably something else?
This protection thingy I meant was about not losing data that's only in some buffer in the drive and not yet written to the NAND chips. It's about not corrupting the files and file system when there's a power outage or the PSU shuts down for some other reason. The drive has a bunch of capacitors charged that provide power for a bit after the power loss.
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Awesome. Thanks for the update
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On September 23 2014 23:24 Ropid wrote:Show nested quote +On September 23 2014 23:07 Incognoto wrote:
Power loss protection, eh? hmm
I think that's what killed my M500. Well, Crucial was cool about the RMA, they've sent out my new M500. Uh... I think that's probably something else? This protection thingy I meant was about not losing data that's only in some buffer in the drive and not yet written to the NAND chips. It's about not corrupting the files and file system when there's a power outage or the PSU shuts down for some other reason. The drive has a bunch of capacitors charged that provide power for a bit after the power loss.
Well all I can do is conjecture as to why the damn drive died. I think power loss (Crucial told me to do power cycles to try to fix the problem), yet I don't see how power loss could ever kill a drive? So I just don't get it. The thing was working fine literally hours before, came back from afk and I found windows trying to repair stuff.
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I am somehow not able to connect my TV with my PC via hdmi. OS: Win 81,64 bit Graphics card is 760 gtx, newest driver 344.11, cable tested with laptop, worked perfectly.
When I first connected the TV to the PC , the driver actually displayed a "digital monitor" in the driver settings, but the TV would show "no signal", no matter how I played around with the settings. Then I went back one driver generation, didn't help, now I'm back to 344.11 and the driver isn't even displaying the monitor anymore. Help would be appreciated.
edit: forget everything, I used the mainboard hdmi port, I'm a fucking idiot
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I notice when uploading videos (e.g. HD picture files with audio files) to youtube, there is often black bars at the sides or top of the video (the picture does not cover the full entire screen). Is there a way to upload these pics so that the picture fits the full screen(when fullscreen as well), while the quality of the image is not decreased, and the picture is not distorted?
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United Kingdom20343 Posts
On September 26 2014 12:01 miercat wrote:
I notice when uploading videos (e.g. HD picture files with audio files) to youtube, there is often black bars at the sides or top of the video (the picture does not cover the full entire screen). Is there a way to upload these pics so that the picture fits the full screen(when fullscreen as well), while the quality of the image is not decreased, and the picture is not distorted?
Not unless you cut off part of the image, AFAIK. The player only runs in 16 : 9 aspect ratio
edit: forget everything, I used the mainboard hdmi port
:D
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On September 26 2014 23:03 Cyro wrote:Show nested quote +On September 26 2014 12:01 miercat wrote:
I notice when uploading videos (e.g. HD picture files with audio files) to youtube, there is often black bars at the sides or top of the video (the picture does not cover the full entire screen). Is there a way to upload these pics so that the picture fits the full screen(when fullscreen as well), while the quality of the image is not decreased, and the picture is not distorted? Not unless you cut off part of the image, AFAIK. The player only runs in 16 : 9 aspect ratio
I tried that previously, but maybe I am doing something wrong.
How to cut off correct proportion of an image?
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EPT
