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On January 17 2014 04:28 DaHui2 wrote:
I might be upgrading from a sapphire 7950 to a 780 and I have two questions:
1. Would it be a noticeable upgrade for 1920x1080 gaming?
2. If i did get the 780, would I need to upgrade my power supply? Currently I have a Rosewill Capstone 450w PSU and am running a lightly overclocked i5 3570k, a hard drive+SSD.
Depends on the game, settings, how much you're sensitive to things, etc. I mean, don't you know the kind of fps you're getting right now better than we do? 60 Hz monitor or...?
Power supply would be enough unless you find some way to overclock and overvolt the card a lot and run unrealistic loads on the computer for long stretches of time.
Maybe this is a naive or outdated view, especially with the challenges associated with new process nodes these days, but I wouldn't be so keen on upgrading a mid-high end 28 nm part to another 28 nm part unless there were pressing performance issues to address.
And at the moment for most modern games they're not really advertising GTX 780 for 1080p 60 Hz users. It's usually going to be overkill.
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@DaHui2:
I don't think so. I feel it might not be much of an upgrade regardless of resolution because of what you'll have to pay, unless you can sell your 7950 for a strangely high price because of that weird mining craze.
You could stay with your current PSU.
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United Kingdom20345 Posts
I wouldn't make the jump to 780 unless you wanted to push it reasonably. At stock settings, it's not worth it, if you're running at like 1250mhz 24/7 it's moreso. Doesn't make sense as an upgrade though when you can grab a 20nm GPU later this year and expect it to be significantly better, while meanwhile you are on 1080p60hz so there's not nearly as much room to abuse a ton of gpu power
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Alright, thanks for the advice. Ill hold off on upgrading till 20nm (maxwell?)
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Like Myrmidon said, the only reason to really sell your 7950 right now is because of the mining craze. You can probably sell it for more than you paid. Or you can join the mining craze and make a couple bucks while you sleep :D
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On January 17 2014 06:03 z0rz wrote:
Like Myrmidon said, the only reason to really sell your 7950 right now is because of the mining craze. You can probably sell it for more than you paid. Or you can join the mining craze and make a couple bucks while you sleep :D
You mean a few cents? xD
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A couple bucks might be optimistic for overnight mining, but you can definitely make more than a few cents with a 7950 (scrypt mining, of course).
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I got a new case and transferred my components into it, adding a SSD, new keyboard and new mouse, all at once.
My mobo has 2 slots for a graphics card, and I changed the slot I put the GPU in, thinking it wouldn't make a difference.
Well it did, and now it's not detected. Do I have to open the case and change it over to the other port, or can I fix it without doing that?
Edit: OK I just got off my arse and switched it over. Back to normal.
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On January 17 2014 18:24 Maeldun wrote:
I got a new case and transferred my components into it, adding a SSD, new keyboard and new mouse, all at once.
My mobo has 2 slots for a graphics card, and I changed the slot I put the GPU in, thinking it wouldn't make a difference.
Well it did, and now it's not detected. Do I have to open the case and change it over to the other port, or can I fix it without doing that?
Edit: OK I just got off my arse and switched it over. Back to normal.
If you have only 1 GPU, then you need to put it on the PCI-E x16 slot closest to the CPU.
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On January 17 2014 00:49 Ropid wrote:
Try the newest beta BIOS from Gigabyte's website, the one released a week ago.
The difference between the graphics cards might be in a UEFI GOP video-BIOS being available on the GTX 760, which is still something pretty new. When this motherboard came out, UEFI in general was still a bit unusual, and the BIOS programmers tweaked the UEFI stuff of the BIOS a lot over the last year, so this might be related.
I tried going to the BIOS and apparently my main BIOS is corrupted so it did a self re-flash but even after that the problem persists. WIll try to update the latest BIOS now.
Edit: Updating the BIOS solves the problem. Seems like you need to update to the latest BIOS for current gen GFX for Gigabyte Z77 boards.
Thanks for help!
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I'm trying to set a macro for a button on my SteelSeries Sensei that Alt-Tab's/opens desktop/minimizes all open windows, but the SteelSeries Engine doesn't allow me to record a macro using a Windows Key + another button (Windows Key+M or D in this case). Any ideas on how I can set a macro for this?
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You will be able to accomplish this with the help of AutoHotkey, but that program is weird and takes research to use.
Regarding special mouse buttons, AutoHotkey by itself only knows two thumb buttons, I think. If it's one of the extra keys of the Sensei you want to use, you might want to try to have the Steelseries software send an unusual key combination like Ctrl-Alt-F11 or something, then see if AutoHotkey reacts to that (I don't know).
An AutoHotkey script to translate Ctrl-Alt-F11 into Win-D looks like this:
!^F11::#d
After installing AutoHotkey, you create an empty script through clicking "New -> AutoHotkey script" in the context menu in the Windows file browser. You can edit that new file with a text editor and insert that "!^F11::#d" at the end. Afterwards, you double click it and it'll show up as an icon in the notification area of the task bar. After you've gotten it to work right, just throw the script into the "Start-up" start menu folder.
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Ahh yeah I see what you mean. I've Autohotkey installed and modified it's script to try translating Ctrl+Alt+F11 from your example and it doesn't seem to pick it up. I can set Ctrl+Alt+F11 in steam as a macro key however. Even if I manually press Ctrl+Alt+F11 Autohotkey doesn't pick it up, so it's not a problem with steam.
I'll just play around with it until I find a good key combo that works and edit the script and trying it.
Thanks Ropid
edit: Got it working 
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What are the "Ultra Low Noise Adapters" cables that comes with the Noctua NH-D14 called? I've misplaced mine and would like to replace them with generic ones but I have no idea what they are.
Picture of the the cables circled in red: http://i.imgur.com/di9qG6d.jpg
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Write an email to Noctua's support and ask them politely where you could buy them. I could imagine them sending you a set for free if they are not sold anywhere, or at least describe exactly what kind of resistors they are using on the 12V cable (I think it's two different ones for the two different fans).
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Nah, many fans wouldn't even spin at 3.3V or even 5V, and it's not like any of those wires carry +5V or +3.3V. The red is +12V nominal from the mobo, black is ground (as usual), and yellow is the tachometric signal (to report rpm).
As you can see from the photos, they're not crossing wires or anything. See the bump? That's a resistor on the +12V line, which is what reduces the voltage seen by the fan. Problem is, I don't know what resistance value they actually use. Of course you'd need a high-power option, and someone could easily rig one of these for themselves, but yeah.
Another option that's more flexible anyway would be the Zalman Fan Mate 2, which has a potentiometer for adjusting the voltage you get so it's not fixed on some value. Some fans get finicky at certain narrow voltage ranges anyway, and a fixed option may be too high or too low.
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EPT
