|
Guys, I own but not using EK waterblock and backplate for GTX690
The CPU (2500k) is currently air cooled and stable at 4.3ghz meanwhile GPU is running hot at 70C+ with stock cooler at load
Would love the PC running on the cold side as it is on 24/7. I would like to set a budget of $250 or below
What should I do with the cooling?
1)Get watercooling kit/custom for the CPU then add on the wb+bp to it (more OC overhead for CPU)
2)Get the rest of watercooling set for GPU and the other parts of the computer (mobo/ram/etc.) leave CPU with air
3)Get watercooling for whole PC (how much radiator power do I need for this)
4)????
Does watercooling kits actually come cheaper than custom?
|
United Kingdom20343 Posts
70c is not hot for a dual GPU card at all, it's actually pretty cool. You could get cooler w/ water, but do you really need to?
What do you have on your 2500k also atm?
You're running GPU at 100% load 24/7?
|
Thank you for the quick reply! have Contac 29 on CPU atm, both sides of the CPU?
You are right maybe it is not necessary to cool the GPU but I would like to make use of the Waterblock+Backplate (bought them 1 set with the card lol)
The dilemma is full watercooling is 50% there, go for it?
|
United Kingdom20343 Posts
Well it'd cost. If you wanted to do it all the way, or even half, then seems like it doesn't make sense unless you're going to push the hardware. "$250 or below" plus a lot of work seems very questionable for no real gain other than a gpu running at like 55c and quieter vs 75c and louder, like you'd have to get something of value for yourself out of the money+work. What's your goal?
voltage+temps on your 2500k now could be interesting too, if you're doing water and put it in you can maybe clock a lot higher than low end air
|
You should do watercooling if you want to do watercooling. It looks like it needs a good bit of work and money. It seems it can be fun as a hobby. If you don't think you'd find it fun, air cooling is always less maintenance and cheaper.
There's an air cooler from Arctic for your GTX690 which is good about noise and probably stronger than what came with your GPU, but I feel it's pretty ugly. There might be some other aftermarket air coolers that look better, maybe come without fans. Price is towards $100, I think. (EDIT: looked it up... it's $170 for that special cooler for GTX690 -- EDIT2: Those $170 are just on the Arctic website. In shops it's actually a lot cheaper.)
You could also first remove your current graphics card cooler as you have to do that anyways. Look at the impression you see in the thermal paste that was used. You could try to improve on thermal paste application. Maybe it's possible to lap the two base plates of the cooler if you can't get the thermal paste impression look as perfect as you'd like (lapping = making it totally flat and giving it a mirror finish with sand paper).
|
Basically as Cyro says. You want to go water? Water is for hobbyists. The performance is great. The price/performance is laughably bad.
Your GPU is fine to run at 80 plus degrees most of the time.
You are using old den tech, not worth any investment really.
|
|
|
Water cooling is crazy expensive. It was going to run me like $700, so I abandoned the idea. You also have to do maintenance on it every ~6 months.
Even if you go the economical route it'll still cost you several hundred to link everything up and have enough rads to dissipate heat. A GPU block is going to run you $50-100 and a CPU block the same amount. Blocks usually become paperweights when new architectures come around, especially the GPU water-blocks. The pump, tubing, reservoir, fittings, and rads you can keep using in future builds.
As far as actual installation goes, WC is much more difficult. Assuming you got everything right the first time (replacing the GPU heatsink with your water-block can be a bitch) you still need to run an extended leak test (like 24 hours). If you want to add/remove components, you need compression fittings in the right place (which are iffy in terms of being drop-free, though they're getting better) or to drain your entire loop. Then you've gotta swap in the components and do another leak test before you can get going.
It's definitely a lot of work. Yeah, you'll get better heat reductions and it'll be quieter, but modern air and CLCs are already very effective.
|
Hi Guys appreciate the advice
Not buying the GPU cooler fan ($100) as I already own the WB. Adding $100ish to the fan for a WC kit would enable me to WC the cpu and GPU, sell the contac 29 for some change not a lot of top up
Would it be wise to just blow a fan directly into the PC then?
|
United Kingdom20343 Posts
That's what an intake fan is for. What are you trying to run cooler and why? GPU's not hot, and you'd get far bigger gains from just moving past low end cpu cooling if you wanted to make improvements on that front
Once you have at all adequate airflow, the difference between amazing and ok is like 5 degrees on case temps. The gap between a low end CPU cooler and high end air can be as much as 4-6x that
|
No real reason why Cyro, If this is sufficient I will let it be 
|
United Kingdom20343 Posts
Is good (: There's just little reason to go super overkill on cooling. If your temps are already nice there's little point to spending money on time if it won't bring notable improvements
|
since the keyboard thread produced nothing..
so ive been having a few issues lately with my keyboard. got it earlier this year called mstone and what ive noticed is that the keys are a little unresponsive during games.
it works perfectly when typing and stuff, but when playing games (most notably brood war or dota 2), a key doesnt register. i dont ever have this problem with older keyboards, but then again none of them were mechanical so...
with brood war my biggest problem is when cycling through production buildings i will often find that some of them dont actually start production because my key didnt register. similar stuff for dota, items or skills not being pressed. i dont think its just me being bad because i never have these issues at pc bangs or with previous keyboards, and when typing i hardly ever miss a key. any thoughts?
|
There was Jinro reporting something that sounds similar about his blue switch mech keyboard when he was still an SC2 pro. There was apparently no solution for him other than not using the keyboard anymore. I don't know where to find the comments.
The way I remember that problem described, it showed up when playing with too high APM.
|
|
|
Erm i need a little help, can i somehow restart my computer internet with a batch file ? is there a command that would dc my internet and restart it ? sometimes during the day my internet goes off randomly and i MUST restart PC for it to go back since when i try to disable and enable adapter in network center it fucks up, it disables but wont enable again until i restart... So i need some sort of command for this :D maybe ip renew or smth could work ?
|
So with my windows 8, if i open up google chrome and play music on youtube, if i alt-tab the music pauses and stops playing. Is there a way to fix this?
|
You need to run chrome in the traditional desktop mode. It's not possible with metro as far as I know.
|
On October 08 2013 21:23 Ropid wrote:
There was Jinro reporting something that sounds similar about his blue switch mech keyboard when he was still an SC2 pro. There was apparently no solution for him other than not using the keyboard anymore. I don't know where to find the comments.
The way I remember that problem described, it showed up when playing with too high APM.
...
that was the only solution? why was this never discussed in the keyboard thread. would have been a huge indicator for me to NOT get a mechanical keyboard.
|
actually curious on this
Why do people use Nvidia when it is more expensive?
also, I am soon planning on building a pc (new at it still doing some research to see if i will actually be able to do it)
i am reading on that overclocking is good for free extra performance, and if the CPU name is a "k" in it it means its unlocked and can be overclocked.
i looked that the ones with the K in it is a bit more expensive, (around $50 more to its regular locked counterpart).
also, i have no idea on how to overclock. and i probably wont as i dont want to risk damaging my CPU.
even with these, should i always opt for the one that can be overclocked opposed to the one that cant?
IE: i7 - 4770k cost $40 mroe than the i7 - 4770.
should i always opt to buy the one with the k?
|
|
|
|
|
|
EPT
