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I put together my PC a few days ago and I've been running some stability programs to see if my computer is stable.
I'm not sure if it's supposed to do this, but when I run MSi Kombustor, and it has, say, 500 framerate, as soon as I start Prime95 or Intel Burn Test, the framerate drops and the GPU cools down.
Is this a sign of a power supply issue or is this normal?
my computer: i5 3570k, HD 7950, 16gb corsair 1600mhz ram, msi 77a-gd55 motherboard
heres a link to the powersupply if you think it might be the problem: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182278
they both are running right now (for about 15 minutes now) and it seems fine but it just seemed odd to me
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The latter two are CPU+Memory tests, not GPU tests. They won't stress your video card, but will put your CPU usage up to 100%.
I've never run CPU and GPU tests at the same time. I do simple IBT runs then extended P95 runs to test a CPU overclock. For testing a GPU overclock, things like Furmark are popular.
I imagine that the CPU tests choke your system to the point where it has an effect on the ability to run the graphical test.
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United Kingdom20326 Posts
You should be completely fine with that PSU, did you try setting Kombustor to a higher priority than p95/ibt (or setting them lower?)
I dont know if the behavior is normal, but i dont think it should be
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IMO, Kombustor uses 1 thread, so when you fireup P95, P95 wants to use all threads available so kombustor is fighting p95 for thread usage.
Just assign core 0 to Kombustor and 1/2/3 to p95 (only run 3 workers).
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United Kingdom20326 Posts
Id run 4 workers, as long as prime is low priority and kombuster is high they wont conflict, and its probably better for stress testing if you are looking to test PSU or something
Overall though you probably want to stress test CPU/RAM and GPU seperately
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I bought a dlink DIR-835. So far, extremely pleased with the strenght of the signal
HOWEVER, upon reading more reviews on the internet, I am led to believe that the DIR-835 is not a good router (most reviews claim that theirs broke down after a few weeks/months of use)
If I am looking for something similar, what should I look for ? (I bought it at futureshop, so refunding/changing it won't pose any problem)
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Build Complete
+ Show Spoiler +CPU: Intel Core i7-3930K 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock X79 Extreme6 ATX LGA2011 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Video Card: Asus Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition 1GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 450W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 Full (64-bit)
![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/bWPPyZx.jpg)
Thanks to all of you for being so cool and helping me out!
Now to just get all the software right. 
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Just for shits and giggles, I'd like to see what you pros could come up with:
Budget: 500-650(staying on the lower end if possible)
Resolution: 1920x1080
Using it for: Gaming/Streaming
Upgrade Cycle: 1-2 years
Building it: Within a month
No OC
No 2nd GPU
I live in Dayton, OH so Microcenter isn't too far down the road. Will buy parts from wherever it is cheaper.
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On March 06 2013 00:35 Elairec wrote:
Just for shits and giggles, I'd like to see what you pros could come up with:
Budget: 500-650(staying on the lower end if possible)
Resolution: 1920x1080
Using it for: Gaming/Streaming
Upgrade Cycle: 1-2 years
Building it: Within a month
No OC
No 2nd GPU
I live in Dayton, OH so Microcenter isn't too far down the road. Will buy parts from wherever it is cheaper.
Do you have a 1080p monitor already, or do you want one? What about a copy of Windows?
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Sorry, Ive got all the peripherals covered as well as a copy of windows. Just need the hardware.
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What games?
Does "within a month" mean that you're willing to buy now, or does that mean that you could be waiting the full month?
EDIT:
Your build will look something like this:
Intel Core i3-3225 (Micro Center) $120
MSI Z77A-G41 (Micro Center) $35 AR with bundle
PNY GTX 650 Ti 1GB (Newegg) $120 AR (with $75 in-game coupon, not sure what for) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814133473
Crucial Ballistix Sport 2x4GB (Micro Center) $42 with CPU/Mobo
Toshiba 1TB 7200 RPM (Micro Center) $60
Cooler Master Elite 430 (Newegg) $30 AR AP http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119227
Rosewill Capstone 450 (Newegg) $65
TOTAL: $472; free shipping. Some of these deals end today; others will be around.
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United Kingdom20326 Posts
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On a scale of 1-10 how hard would you say OCing is?
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United Kingdom20326 Posts
Depends how experienced you are, with sandy/ivy bridge you basically just have to set LLC and then change multiplier and voltage, as long as you have a very basic idea how everything works and how to change and test settings correctly it should come really easily, like 2/10
I dont know how any AMD CPU's overclock though and some older CPU's (nehalem) were a bit of a nightmare for someone new, where you have base clock, multiplier, vcore, vtt voltage, qpi/uncore multipliers and everything tied together somehow, but intel's been really simple since the start of 2011.
You do need an unlocked CPU to overclock (k at the end) and a z77 motherboard for ivy bridge (not sure about sandy bridge), also preferably a decent one (in terms of power delivery and manual voltage control) and at least a decent heatsink+fan so you have added costs.
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On March 06 2013 02:24 Elairec wrote:
On a scale of 1-10 how hard would you say OCing is?
Yeah, how important is streaming to you? You can go 2500k and a Hyper 212 (Plus or Evo; the plus is always $30 at MC and the Evo usually is) cooler for $60 extra, which is only mildly over your bottom budget, or a 3570k for about 8% extra performance and about $40 more.
If you're planning on streaming SC2, I'd definitely recommend the unlocked i5 instead, especially since MC already requires you to bundle a Z77 board, which is equipped to OC.
And OC is not difficult. It takes some time to get stable, but it is pretty easy.
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United Kingdom20326 Posts
But the board suggested is awful for overclocking
Let me start by saying that overclocking is not the Z77A-G41's strong suit. Overclocking was easy in a sense because the board gives you very little options for doing it. There is no control over the power phases, probably due to the fact that you've only got a 4+1 configuration to work with. So there is no load-line calibration to set or power phase response control. CPU PLL voltage cannot be set beyond enabling overvoltage. CPU voltage is an offset only mode and you'll get about 1.28v first result on google
so you are pretty much forced into paying extra for a decent one, preferably with manual voltage control.. offset is not too bad on a decent board, but you kinda need one with the right amount of whatever power control things so you can get stable voltage, load line calibration etc and no worries about board failing if you overclock too far for it, which is a concern on cheap budget boards especially like this
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On March 06 2013 03:49 Cyro wrote:But the board suggested is awful for overclocking Show nested quote + Let me start by saying that overclocking is not the Z77A-G41's strong suit. Overclocking was easy in a sense because the board gives you very little options for doing it. There is no control over the power phases, probably due to the fact that you've only got a 4+1 configuration to work with. So there is no load-line calibration to set or power phase response control. CPU PLL voltage cannot be set beyond enabling overvoltage. CPU voltage is an offset only mode and you'll get about 1.28v first result on google so you are pretty much forced into paying extra for a decent one, preferably with manual voltage control.. offset is not too bad on a decent board, but you kinda need one with the right amount of whatever power control things so you can get stable voltage, load line calibration etc and no worries about board failing if you overclock too far for it, which is a concern on cheap budget boards especially like this
I mean, it really depends on how aggressive an overclock you're looking for, though. Someone who's never OC'ed before isn't going to do a whole lot of power phase adjustment, though the lack of LLC is somewhat annoying. For someone looking for a budget PC, it's probably not worthwhile tradeoff to spend $40-50 extra to get an average of maybe 200mhz more from a better board. Obviously, that's person-specific, but it's not completely necessary to get a board that's better for overclocking.
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United Kingdom20326 Posts
Its a bitch to stabilize an overclock with no LLC and nothing but offset voltage control, especially when the board aparantly does not even supply a stable voltage. I wouldnt touch something like that for over 4ghz, but then again the CPU turbo's to 3.7-3.9 and a ton of motherboards force all 4 cores to full turbo speed so its hardly overclocking..
And by the time you get to like 4.5ghz, the lack of llc and good voltage control will make your temps higher than they need to be, so you might need better cooling, or you could just run into stability issues. A ton of people in overclocking community run with offset voltage (almost always after working out voltages with manual), but its trickier to use than manual and it must be a nightmare when you dont have llc or good power control
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just ordered an ASUS P8Z77-V Lk as part of a combo with a 3570k, how much of an effect will the 4+1+1 power phase have on how high i can overclock the cpu?
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There's more than simply problems with not enough settings to get things stable. On the ASRock z77 pro4-m, the VRM heatsink gets too hot to touch at about 4.4 GHz and 1.2 V. At 4.5 GHz and something like 1.25 V, the mainboard starts throttling the CPU after a few minutes of IntelBurnTest with the CPU at around 80 C. This is in a rather cold room. It'll be a truly shitty mainboard on a hot summer day.
There's one temperature reading in HWMonitor that could be a sensor in that area of the board. That reading already shows about 60 C with the CPU under full load at 3.8 GHz. I guess it really was not built for any overclocking and relies on the air from a fan that blows onto the board like with the cooler that comes boxed with Intel's cpu.
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EPT
