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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. | ||
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MannerMan
371 Posts
On January 04 2011 07:28 semantics wrote: depends what you're going to do with it, you don't need anything quite as large or good as hyper 212 if you keep that at stock it's a 95w TDP cpu. I'm going to keep it at stock. What would you suggest for that? | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
@BraveGhost: Likewise, $1500 is a plenty high budget. This is what I'd get: Core i5-2500 ($210) LGA 1155 motherboard ($120; you don't need features of expensive ones) HD 6870 ($250) 2x2 GB DDR3 RAM ($50) Hard drive ($50) SSD ($120 for a good 60GB) Optical drive ($20; maybe $60 if you need Blu-Ray) Case ($60) Power supply ($60 for a good 500W PSU, giving you lots of headroom) That should be under $1000 and should destroy modern games while being able to stream them. Spending more on components won't get you much more, so spend the rest on extras, especially since you plan on watching movies on this thing. You could scrap the SSD if you want, but you might as well get one with this budget. Spend more on the SSD if you need a larger capacity. A nice ~$500 monitor is the Dell U2410 (IPS), which is 1920x1200. Or you could spend on a sound card and decent speakers or headphones. Headphones are much better for sound quality per price, though obviously you have to wear them and other people don't get the same sound. | ||
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w.tRiViaL
United States4 Posts
Here is my current build: https://spreadsheets3.google.com/ccc?key=tcDFvjQHOXAt-VsMJgUgZLw&hl=en#gid=0 Also, I'm going to be playing at 1920x1080. Please comment and make suggestions EDIT: I already have a legal copy of Windows 7 x64 lol | ||
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AdmiralSimon
United States25 Posts
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103886 Also, would it make sense to upgrade from 768MB to 1 GB on the videocard to improve performance? And one final question, this motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128451 Should be able to fit this graphics card fine, correct? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127512 Sorry about all the questions, I'm just trying to make sure everything will work together fine while gathering a better understanding of what is necessary and what really works for the next time around. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
You can also try a cheaper case than the Storm Scout if necessary. Overall, choices look good. If you're scrapping for every $10, all that would run on a Corsair CX430 ($40 - $10 MIR). Internals are not awe-inspiring since it's a budget unit, but the same can be said of the ModXStream Pro 600W. But it's not really worth the $10 difference. @AdmiralSimon: only difference between Athlon II and Phenom II is that the latter has level 3 cache and the former does not. That means that in some scenarios, the Athlon II might be looking for some data and have to wait to retrieve it from RAM, while the Phenom II can pull the data from its L3 cache (if it's cached there). There are a lot more differences between processor specs and architectures than just cache and clock speeds though. It's better just to check a wide range of benchmarks to see which CPUs are better, in what scenarios, and by how much. Athlon II X3 has been and still is a pretty good budget option. Every motherboard with a full-size PCI-E slot (pretty much everything in the last several years) is compatible with every graphics card that uses that slot (everything in the last several years). | ||
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AdmiralSimon
United States25 Posts
On January 05 2011 07:45 Myrmidon wrote: @AdmiralSimon: only difference between Athlon II and Phenom II is that the latter has level 3 cache and the former does not. That means that in some scenarios, the Athlon II might be looking for some data and have to wait to retrieve it from RAM, while the Phenom II can pull the data from its L3 cache (if it's cached there). There are a lot more differences between processor specs and architectures than just cache and clock speeds though. So it would make sense to get the Penom II for only 5 bucks more for the third cache and such. And is 768MB enough for a videocard for most videogame purposes, or is 1GB reccomended. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
For most current games, 768MB is enough, though this depends some on your screen resolution--lower means less VRAM needed. More-demanding games in the future may want more. However, you can always just turn down the textures setting, as that's mainly what needs to be stored in VRAM. However, there are also a few other differences between the GTX 460 1GB and 768MB versions other than the amount of VRAM. You can read the reviews and all the details yourself. The bottom line is that both models tend to be fairly priced relative to each other (about $30 apart), so either is a decent option. | ||
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AdmiralSimon
United States25 Posts
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103679&cm_re=phenom_ii-_-19-103-679-_-Product http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103886 Yeah, the difference between the 1GM and the 768 MB seems to be quite neglible in most game tests, and the 1GB is 40 dollars more, so I think I'll just stick with the 768MB. comparison | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
What was your screen resolution again? You may have noticed that the difference between the GTX 460 versions was smaller at the smaller resolutions. You would see more of a difference at resolutions higher than 1920x1200, with more antialiasing, etc. | ||
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AdmiralSimon
United States25 Posts
Thanks a lot for your help. | ||
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Yiruru
Canada690 Posts
On January 05 2011 03:35 Myrmidon wrote: @Sholoshka: Even with cyberpower's prices, $1500 is overkill for getting something to run SC2 on ultra settings, even at 1920x1200. It should be the same for WoW. Pretty much anything you pick would work, most likely. If you're not in a rush, you could wait until they sell computers with the new Intel Sandy Bridge CPUs (already appearing in stores). That way, the CPU could last way longer than 2 years for gaming workloads. @BraveGhost: Likewise, $1500 is a plenty high budget. This is what I'd get: Core i5-2500 ($210) LGA 1155 motherboard ($120; you don't need features of expensive ones) HD 6870 ($250) 2x2 GB DDR3 RAM ($50) Hard drive ($50) SSD ($120 for a good 60GB) Optical drive ($20; maybe $60 if you need Blu-Ray) Case ($60) Power supply ($60 for a good 500W PSU, giving you lots of headroom) That should be under $1000 and should destroy modern games while being able to stream them. Spending more on components won't get you much more, so spend the rest on extras, especially since you plan on watching movies on this thing. You could scrap the SSD if you want, but you might as well get one with this budget. Spend more on the SSD if you need a larger capacity. A nice ~$500 monitor is the Dell U2410 (IPS), which is 1920x1200. Or you could spend on a sound card and decent speakers or headphones. Headphones are much better for sound quality per price, though obviously you have to wear them and other people don't get the same sound. Do you have any 1155 Mobo recommendations for that budget/build? Other than cost, is there anything bad about getting a PSU thats rated more than you need? | ||
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Disregard
China10252 Posts
So its a good idea to invest into a good PSU, not some cheapo unit from XXXmax. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
Most people are getting the Asus P8P67 Pro board primarily because of EFI. I'm probably going to go that route as well or maybe get a Deluxe if it's not too expensive. | ||
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Disregard
China10252 Posts
edit: What monitor do you guys recommend, decent priced 1920x1080/1200? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824254044 Been looking at this one, its around my budget. Also using a 19" Hanns-G and it works flawlessly all these years. Speakers are terrible but who uses them anyway. | ||
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semantics
10040 Posts
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824176141 shame that the industry is moving to 1080 monitors to match tv's http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824116421 also a shame that IPS isn't more popular it would push down it's price. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236116 Eh at 200 most monitors i'd bitch about color accuracy, how freakin bright and gaudy the default settings are and things but hell might as well get one that can be moved more then just tilt. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
On January 05 2011 15:24 Disregard wrote: If the PSU has really ridiculously high efficiency like a 80+ GOLD, it would just draw enough power to keep your system running. However, when your system at load uses 400-500W theoretically on average, having a non-energy efficient 1000W PSU for the hell of it will cost you on your electricity bill. I'm not quite sure what you mean here, or if I'm interpreting you correctly. Therefore, I'll pretend like you don't know anything, even though you may know everything below, and I'll elaborate for the sake of anyone else reading (maybe nobody lol). + Show Spoiler [PSUs, efficiency, 50% load, etc.] + How much power your computer draws from your PSU doesn't at all depend on the PSU. It has nothing to do with the PSU's internals, rated wattage, or efficiency. It's just how much power is being consumed by the components--most of which comes from parasitic resistive losses as charge moves from place to place in the CPU and GPU. This amount depends on what the components are doing. The PSU's efficiency is just the ratio of DC output power supplied to components divided by the AC power taken in from the wall. A more efficient PSU takes less AC power to deliver the same DC output power. The efficiency depends on the design and components of the PSU, and it generally is a function of both load (how much power is being drawn) and temperature. If you have a 1000W PSU that is 78% efficient when supplying 400W, you're pulling 512.8W from the wall when 400W DC is being used. Utility companies charge residential facilities by real power (Watts) consumed at the wall, so you don't need to worry about the power factor, reactive power, and all that. They're billing you for the 512.8W times how long you're using that: power x time aka energy. A 500W PSU that is 83% efficient when supplying 400W would pull 481.9W from the wall at that load. You could have a 380W PSU that is supplying 400W at 78% efficiency, and it would pull 512.8W from the wall just like the hypothetical 1000W PSU. The 500W or 1000W label isn't relevant in terms of this efficiency of AC->DC conversion. And the big number on the label doesn't even mean that much regardless, since some PSUs can't ever do their rated wattage (even just for a brief spike) before going out of spec, shutting down, or exploding. And others can do above their rated wattage continuously for hours on end at 50 degrees Celsius or above. On January 05 2011 15:35 skyR wrote: Power supplies run best at ~50% load. You don't want to be using only 100w on a 1000w PSU or a 400w on a 500w PSU. I'm not sure what "best" means here either. Efficiency is often highest at around 50% of rated load, but it depends on the PSU in question. Voltage regulation may be best at low, mid, or high load. But AC ripple on top of the DC output voltages is usually best at the lightest load. Likewise, noise, heat, and amount of stress on the components is lower at lighter loads. To answer the original question, there's no problem with having a PSU rated way above what you're using it for, other than the cost of the unit. Efficiency tends to be low at low (a bit under 20% rated wattage) loads, but that's the only real drawback. But it doesn't really matter much in practice. If your typical 1000W unit is 76% efficient at 100W where a typical 500W unit is 83% efficient at 100W, that's just a 11W difference in power drawn from the wall. How much power does one light bulb take, not to mention your heating or heavy appliances? | ||
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Disregard
China10252 Posts
edit: I mean thats how I learned it, maybe Im wrong. I dont have the best knowledge of everything, just enough to get me through all my problems or questions. :/ If Im wrong then I feel embarrassed. Or just wording it wrong, Oh well. | ||
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Silentness
United States2821 Posts
Coolmaster HAF 922 case 650w Corsair PSU 2 GTX 460 MSI twin frozen version in SLI i5 2500k 120 GB SSD drive 4 GB 1600 DDR3 RAM DVD drive of course... Windows 7 Home 64 bit Gigabyte Udap4p67 mobo a 200 something dollar 23" + monitor I think I'm missing something... I already have the keyboard/mouse covered *edit* I'm not a big movie/music/picture gathering person so I definitely wont be using all 120 GB of the SSD drive so I really don't need a backup TB hard drive or anything. | ||
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KOFgokuon
United States14912 Posts
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Womwomwom
5930 Posts
On January 06 2011 06:18 Silentness wrote: My build after I get my tax refund: Coolmaster HAF 922 case 650w Corsair PSU 2 GTX 460 MSI twin frozen version in SLI i5 2500k 120 GB SSD drive 4 GB 1600 DDR3 RAM DVD drive of course... Windows 7 Home 64 bit Gigabyte Udap4p67 mobo a 200 something dollar 23" + monitor I think I'm missing something... I already have the keyboard/mouse covered *edit* I'm not a big movie/music/picture gathering person so I definitely wont be using all 120 GB of the SSD drive so I really don't need a backup TB hard drive or anything. I wouldn't bother with the Gigabyte P67 motherboards as they don't support EFI. What's the point of paying the same to get less than similarly priced performance boards? | ||
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