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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. |
You missed on alot (if not all) of the good specials. I don't really feel like finding specific items as 1/3 of the items I found earlier are gone. Might be better just waiting till next Wend specials (I dont know).
But if I were you:
No SSD
~$70 B75 Mobo
~$180 i5 CPU (whatever is on special, NCIX example: i5 3470 @180 or i5-3350P @160)
~$50 Great quality PSU
$$30 8GB RAM (1600 over 1333)
~330
You have ~270 to spend on case+gpu which should be something like 220/50 +-20
GPU specials (7850 or 7870 or 660 or 670) with the help of http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/549?vs=660
Case whatever you like as long as its not shit. (feel free to spend more if you are going to keep it for 2-3 builds)
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5930 Posts
As in, you could spend $220+120 = $340 on an i5-3570k, OR you can buy an i3 $130 and whatever motherboard $30 any chipset = $160. The i3 will still perform very, very well. You could even buy a locked i5-2310 for $164 and it'd be MORE than powerful enough for any modern game, and a large chunk of cash.
I'll be blunt: an alternative is that you can not force your financial situation on every single person on the world. Perhaps people like to maintain high and stable framerates while keeping high quality settings.
If you aren't going to get your hands dirty and push the limits, then just buy sandy bridge 2500k. Ivy bridge simply is not any better than sandy unless you delid it or have sub-ambient cooling, otherwise sandy's ability to overclock further and stay cooler vs non-delidded IB makes it the better buy, and that's not even accounting for the $40 price difference.
$40 price difference? On Newegg I see like $10 difference. On Amazon, I see the same $10 difference. No, I am not going to bring the second hand market into account. If we're too pussy to buy second hand processors, that we know nothing about, that's fine. You're welcome to go to a better forum where pussies are less likely to exist.
You also seem to think that Ivy Bridge is the same as Sandy Bridge. I mean let's forget that there is an actual IPC difference between Ivy Bridge and Sandy Bridge, Sandy Bridge gets higher clock speeds!
And, on top of that, SB will work fine in a high level $40 p67/z68 motherboard. I mean, so will IB, but if you are scared to delid or do anything, then you are probably too scared to buy z68 used or a bios replacement chip, so realistically we could say your knocking another $60 off the motherboard, although frankly I think there's no reason to buy z77 if your going IB.
Or you can just get a Z77 motherboard and not screw around with anything. Next time you're going to tell me that its smart to go into your speakers and change their crossovers/drivers/tweeters to save a few bucks.
I have very, very rarely heard of anyone fucking up delidding. I think there's maybe a handful of reports on the entire internet, you have a lot more people 'breaking' things by spilling liquid on the motherboard or too much AS5 or bending pins.
But you have heard of people who have screwed up processors. And the reason I posted the Puget example is that they actually fucked up the second processor they tried to delid. If you want to delid the processor, good go ahead. I am not responsible for any problems. I also suggest that you seek a better forum for "enthusiasts" like HardOCP and Overclock.net if you think suggesting delidding to people who don't know what desktop parts to buy is a good idea.
For someone seeking moderate overclocks, there is zero reason to delid a processor. Don't be so heatphobic.
You also don't need to do it right away, you can delid 2 years from now when you are more learned. It's perfectly fine if you want to buy an IB because your interested in delidding and higher overclocks, but dont feel ready for it yet, but get the IB because you want to have the option to. But if your straight set on not pushing the limits, on not getting your hands dirty, SB > IB.
And why do you want to push a processor "to the limit" so desperately? Who cares if you're not getting that 4.8ghz - 5ghz overclock. Are you seriously saying that if you aren't willing/can't achieve such high clock speeds, getting an unlocked processor is a complete waste?
What I'm saying can be summed up to two points:
- Quit forcing your financial situation onto everyone.
- If you want to offer enthusiast advice for enthusiasts, offer it to actual enthusiasts.
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Sorry if this is the completely wrong place to ask for this kind of advice.
I built a computer a couple years back and have been running two monitors connected to my gtx 460 GPU. Now, I´ve recently acquired a third monitor and gtx 460 doesn't support more than 2 monitors active at one given time. This third monitor will mainly be used for having browsers/compilers displaying, nothing that should be too heavy on the GPU. So what (I think) I want to do is to get a really cheap second GPU which would handle the third monitor. From what I've gathered so far I should be looking towards and nVidia card (since I have one already). This is the motherboard I´m using at the moment: http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1156/P7P55DE_LX/#specifications. So, the gtx 460 is sitting in the PCI-E 2.0 x16 slot and all the other slots are free.
What everything I just said boils down to is simply me seeking advise on what card would be good to get, given the slots available in my motherboard.
I've been looking into a ZOTAC GeForce GT 610 512MB PhysX CUDA GPU which would have PCI-Express 1x, DDR3, DVI, HDMI, VGA, HDCP, 2x LP bracket for roughly 50 euros. What I'm unsure of with this card is that it doesn't specify what version of PCI-Express its running on. Is this important? Is this card maybe overkill for its purpose?
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Hi, I could use some help buying a new pc. My current one is around 6 years old and starting to struggle and I don't keep track of parts.
What is your budget?
$2000 or 1500 euro, I can go abit higher if needed.
What is your resolution?
1920x1080
What are you using it for?
Gaming, small amount of video editing.
What is your upgrade cycle?
3-4 years.
When do you plan on building it?
Within 3 months.
Do you plan on overclocking?
Yes.
Do you need an Operating System?
No.
Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire?
I don't know.
Where are you buying your parts from?
Online, either a swedish or european site, I would prefer if all parts is from the same store.
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Come back when you'll be rdy to build it
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For anyone that does 1080p fraps video editing and Adobe After Effects vfx on uncompressed video, what hdd setup would you get with $200? A few dollars over the limit is ok. My current 500GB Samsung 7200 RPM, 16MB Cache just isn't cutting it. Would it be wise to use the Samsung as a scratch disk after I upgrade? or should I just use it for storage and backups?
I'm contemplating on rolling dice on the Seagate Barracudas (read so many bad reviews, has 1 year warranty) over the more expensive WD Caviar Blacks with 5 year warranties. A 2GB WD Black is $150, and a 2GB SGB is $90-$110. I really want to get an SSD with at least 120GB for the OS & a couple of programs as well, but that only seems possible with a $200 budget if I go for the cheaper Seagate Barracuda, or a $90-$100 1TB WD Black. I don't think 1TB is enough, but then again I can just buy some more storage if I ever need more space down the road. I mostly do short 5-10 minute projects at most, then upload them to youtube.
I don't know much about RAID-0 setups, but I was told not to attempt it unless I have a good backup system. So how does two 1TB Sea Barracudas set to RAID-0, and a third 1GB SG for boot? My 500GB Samsung & 320GB usb 2.0 external HDD on backup duty? The 1TB SG's are going for $70 at newegg. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148840&nm_mc=AFC-C8JUNCTION&cm_mmc=AFC-C8JUNCTION-_-EMC-122612-Latest-_-InternalHardDrives-_-22148840-L0C&PID=1225267&SID=9eIhiFArEeKRNUoKgdashQs7X5_kjBN3_0_0_0&AID=10440897
My concern is reliability.
Finally I'm wondering if my PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341022
can handle all the components. My current rig has all stock settings:
i7 3770k
16GB G.SKILL Sniper Gaming Series
ATI HD 5850
500GB Samsung HDD 7200 RPM 16MB Cache
4 case fans & a hyper 212+
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On December 28 2012 00:04 Hokay wrote:For anyone that does 1080p fraps video editing and Adobe After Effects vfx on uncompressed video, what hdd setup would you get with $200? A few dollars over the limit is ok. My current 500GB Samsung 7200 RPM, 16MB Cache just isn't cutting it. Would it be wise to use the Samsung as a scratch disk after I upgrade? or should I just use it for storage and backups? I'm contemplating on rolling dice on the Seagate Barracudas (read so many bad reviews, has 1 year warranty) over the more expensive WD Caviar Blacks with 5 year warranties. A 2GB WD Black is $150, and a 2GB SGB is $90-$110. I really want to get an SSD with at least 120GB for the OS & a couple of programs as well, but that only seems possible with a $200 budget if I go for the cheaper Seagate Barracuda, or a $90-$100 1TB WD Black. I don't think 1TB is enough, but then again I can just buy some more storage if I ever need more space down the road. I mostly do short 5-10 minute projects at most, then upload them to youtube. I don't know much about RAID-0 setups, but I was told not to attempt it unless I have a good backup system. So how does two 1TB Sea Barracudas set to RAID-0, and a third 1GB SG for boot? My 500GB Samsung & 320GB usb 2.0 external HDD on backup duty? The 1TB SG's are going for $70 at newegg. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148840&nm_mc=AFC-C8JUNCTION&cm_mmc=AFC-C8JUNCTION-_-EMC-122612-Latest-_-InternalHardDrives-_-22148840-L0C&PID=1225267&SID=9eIhiFArEeKRNUoKgdashQs7X5_kjBN3_0_0_0&AID=10440897My concern is reliability. Finally I'm wondering if my PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341022can handle all the components. My current rig has all stock settings: i7 3770k 16GB G.SKILL Sniper Gaming Series ATI HD 5850 500GB Samsung HDD 7200 RPM 16MB Cache 4 case fans & a hyper 212+
Hey, I have never done any video editing but wanted to show you these deals:
$99 (5y warranty) Intel 520 Series 120GB http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=67708&manufacture=Intel&promoid=1368
$89 (3y warranty) Intel X25-M 160GB http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-Details.asp?EdpNo=5250507&sku=I69-7010
meh deal:
$70 Seagate Barracuda 1.5TB 7200RPM http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=70854&promoid=1146
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On December 27 2012 16:08 Serpico wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On December 27 2012 14:07 MisterFred wrote:Show nested quote +On December 27 2012 13:46 Belial88 wrote:On December 27 2012 09:40 Serpico wrote:
I'm keeping my same case/monitor/PSU (CM 690/24'' samsung/850 watt corsair non modular) So it won't be a COMPLETE rebuild, but here it is. I believe the mobo is ivy bridge ready, I've built my own pc before but I'm still left guessing a lot with mobos. Suggestions would be good but I would like to keep it under 750 at the most. I will not be doing much OCing at all and am more conscious about temps with this build than my last (while reducing noise). I really like the GPU as I don't want to spend the money for a Ti and it has a very nice cooler.
CORSAIR XMS 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333
MSI Z77A-G41 LGA 1155 Intel Z77
GIGABYTE GV-N660OC-2GD GeForce GTX 660 2GB
Intel Core i5-3570 Ivy Bridge 3.4Ghz
Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB 7200 RPM SATA
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO Heatsink
(only minor part in build)
XIGMATEK FCB (Fluid Circulative Bearing) Cooling System XLF-F1254 120mm White LED Black Case Fan
total: $719.93
Prices from newegg. g41 is a terrible motherboard, there's no voltage control. You might as well buy a non-k edition on the cheapest ivb compatible board possible, if you really wanted ivb. Also if you want to save money, you should buy a z68 chipset motherboard, you can find them used where the bios has been flashed by a previous user, you can ask a local PC store to flash a new bios for you with an sb cpu, you can just straight up use Sandy bridge 2500k on a p67/z68 because there's no reason to buy ivy bridge unless you are willing to delid the CPU (otherwise it's higher OC sb vs lower oc IB, which will be equal performance), or you can simply get a bios chip (many manufacturers will give you one for free or you can send your board in, worst case scenario you pay $10 for a bios chip on ebay/manufacturer for a motherboard that's 2x the quality at 1/2 the price). + Show Spoiler +
I really wouldn't recommend a 3570k unless you are willing to delid the cpu. the 3570k, as I understand it, actually overclocks farther and cooler than the sb, but you have to delid it (cut the IHS off using a razor blade and rub off the IHS glue, there's a gap because of the glue that causes IB's high temps at higher volts, but replacing the TIM will help you out even more). If you don't delid, you can get a SB that will overclock further than a non-delidded IB, which will even the 2 CPUs out. Plus, the cost.
I mean it's a $40 price premium for IB, generally, vendor to vendor. IB is maybe 5% better in applications, so assuming a moderate overclock of 4.8ghz on SB/ 4.5ghz on IB, that's 300 mhz - 240mhz = 60mhz for $40. Now, if your willing to delid the IB, that's a full 240mhz just equal overclocks, and given that IB overclocks higher than SB once delidded, your looking at 300-400+ mhz for $40, which is actually worthwhile (5ghz ib, or rather 200mhz higher overclock relatively, + 200-300mhz just for clock for clock performance).
My point here, is that if your willing to delid, you should have the technical know-how and expertise to buy a z68 motherboard, and make things work (swap out bios, buy it used with the newest bios already, whatever). If you aren't tech savvy enough or comfortable enough to delid, frankly, you should buy a sandy bridge CPU for way less, and then a p67/z68 motherboard for basically 1/4th the cost of a z77.
I mean your paying $80+ for your G41, and it's a piece of shit motherboard. Generally VRMs aren't a huge issue on p67/z68/z77 motherboards because they are usually so expensive that they come with good VRMs, but a 4+1 unheatsinked phase with shitty quality nikos mosfets? Your overclocks are gonna be unstable and low on such a board (although that doesnt matter, you cant even overvolt, but i still would question overclocking on a 4+1 phase).
Avoid the G41 and G43. I think for MSI you gotta go at least 55 for an okay motherboard, and even the 55 is crap in terms of features.
You don't need 2GB of VRAM with sc2. If you plan to play other games, whatever. You would be hard pressed to go past 1gb on sc2.
I'd recommend against the Hyper 212 evo. It's just a lapped hyper 212+, basically, with a louder and stronger fan. You can buy a Hyper 212+ (which tend to be on better sales and discounts, by the way) and then 1.5g of PK-3 thermal paste, and get better temps than using the Hyper 212 Evo, and it'll be quieter. You can even afford a decent fan for the price difference, on top of $4 thermal paste (that includes shipping by the way), so you have push/pull 212+ w/ high grade thermal paste (that you can use on your GPU and on future builds) for the same price as the Evo, and, you can lap the 212+ to get that 1-3*C difference of the 212+ vs Evo.
There's also a ton of closed loop 120mm radiators going for really good deals now too, that'd I'd strongly recommend over the Hyper 212+/Evo as a budget cooler. I mean if you only got $20, get the Hyper 212+. If you go the money (and you do if your going for an evo...), then get a closed loop. It all depends on the price, but basically:
H60=Antec Kuhler 620
> H55=H50 w/smooth tubes (which is what the h55 is, sometimes its sold as updated h50)
> H50 w/corrugated tubes
> H70 (piece of shit cooler with 2 loud and shitty fans stock so it performs better at stock but apples for apples its worse and the 2 fans it comes with are so terrible you wouldnt want them free even, or just better to use as case fans).
You can find such coolers for around $39 new now, and you can find a used H50 for $20 on ebay right now, same price as a hyper 212+.
You can also find good deals on the NH-D14/K2/Assassin right now too, for around $50. If your getting an SB/IB, it's definitely worth getting to push a further overclock, and will really lengthen the life and overclock of your CPU. They'll give a good 20*C+ over the hyper 212 and 10-15+ over closed loops.
Do you really need 1TB of a HDD? I'd recommend with an sb/ib build you look into getting an ssd. if you need 1tb, you need 1tb, but you can get a really, really good deal on some 64-128GB ssds for around $100 or less right now. If you dont use more than 50gb of HDD (w7 64bit ultimate with a bunch of smaller programs, office, and HOTS will come to around 50gb, not sure if you play other games) then consider an SSD for the same price.
16gb of RAM is way too much. There's no reason to need more than 4GB unless you do video editing or flash. Shaving $40 off your build and another $20 somewhere else could get you an SSD for $60, new.
If your on budget and really have to get a Z77, I'd recommend the asrock Pro 3. But I really wouldn't recommend z77 over z68 these days. Buy a z68, and figure out the bios problem for $50-100 savings, basically. I'd say it's worth $50-100 to simply buy a $10 bios chip and swap it in. many companies, like NCIX, are selling their p67/z68s for really cheap these days.
 @Belial Most people here just want a computer to game on. Delidding is just silly to mention. Edit: especially when his original post says he wants to overclock lightly at best. You need to tailor your responses to the person you're responding to, and assume the average person is not a computer enthusiast who wants to get things just right - spending hours of their own time in the process. @Serpico The above was terrible advice. You can safely avoid it unless you overclock for fun. Here's some more reasonable advice: First, be clear whether you want to overclock or not. You mentioned an i5-3570. There are two kinds of these. One ends in a K, as in i5-3570 K. The other does not, a regular 'ole i5-3570. The second belongs in the class of locked Intel i5 processors - it cannot be overclocked. Presumably you meant the i5-3570 K, so you can overclock. We assume this because you chose a Z77 motherboard & an aftermarket cooler - Z77 being a slightly more expensive motherboard style built for overclocking. If you didn't want to overclock, you should probably get the i5-3470 (about the same performance, costs less) and a B75 or H77 motherboard (costs less than a Z77, can't overclock). As for the MSI z77A-G41 (possible typo there), it's not a very good overclocking board since it is very limited in how much voltage you can give the processor. So only moderate overclocks are possible. Then again, it is cheap and given that limitation, not necessarily a bad idea. If you were planning on overclocking more than just a little, you'd probably prefer a better motherboard like an Asrock Z77 Pro3 or a Gigabyte Z77-d3h or -ds3h (not the exact model #, but close enough). As for the Coolermaster 212 Evo, it's a fine choice for cooling on a budget. But currently I'd recommend the Xigmatek Gaia because it is on special & near the Evo in performance. Also potentially quieter. If you weren't planning on overclocking, you just use the stock fan that comes with the CPU. If the noise of that bugs you (unlikely), then you can get the Gaia. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233082&Tpk=xigmatek gaiaIf you're not sure if you want to overclock much, I'd recommend just getting a locked i5 & a cheaper mobo + sticking with the stock cooler. That should save you $70 or more you can use on GPU (i5-3470 should be about $40 less than an i5-3570k, $180 at us.ncix.com, mobo should be about $30 less, plus you safe on not getting a cooler if you choose not to). That should cover CPU, mobo, and cooler. As for the rest of the parts The hard drive looks fine. I suggest sticking with 1TB as its usually only $15-20 more compared to a 500gb version. You shouldn't need the fan unless you wanted the shiny LED for looks. Or maybe it's some super-quiet fan replacing a noisy case fan. I wouldn't know. On video card I usually recommend AMD for better cost-effectiveness, but the nvidia cards are supposed to be quieter, so if that's important to you, stick with what you have. Well I also wrote a wall of text, so between Belial & I your eyes are probably bleeding. But hopefully that helps. Re-reading your post I was a bit too noob-friendly. But whatever, you get the idea. Thanks a bunch for all the help. I will probably dabble in OCing but nothing too crazy, I believe the locked cpus have at least the ability to OC with a turbo option on many boards, right? Btw I've had issues with having to RMA a mobo that was DOA so I'm a bit hypersensitive about getting a quality mobo. I'll be playing some rather intensive games like skyrim+tons of graphical mods/metro 2033 etc. I will probably stream a bit as well. I want the 16 gigs of ram simply because I will be multitasking a lot and will regularly have tons of tabs open, a stream and a game as well. I know it's overkill even for that as only photo editing etc is THAT demanding, but I can aford the overkill there and really would rather overkill on something cheap like ram rather than something that can get incredibly expensive like a GPU. I bought the fan because it's very cheap and is quiet, I have an extra spot for a 120mm fan that I haven't used in years because I'm lazy. I don't have a case panel window so any LEDs are useless (also obnoxious looking unless it's a very soft/dim light imo). That cooler looks like a great suggestion as it's cheaper and I won't do heavy OCing. I would like an after market cooler just because I'm in a room that seems to heat up pretty easily since my TV is in it and I'm above the first floor. My room temp seems to always be higher than I expect. And I can simply afford it  . If you have any more suggestions for good mobos around 100 dollars that are pretty tried and true I'd love to see them. Also I think I might go for a locked ivy bridge if I need a better mobo to go with a K version. The 3570 is the fastest locked i5 ivy bridge cpu then?
Going in reverse order: an aftermarket heatsink will not reduce the amount of heat your computer puts out. Your room will get just as hot regardless of the cooler you use. All a cooler does is transfer heat from your CPU into your room, actually. CPU generates heat -> heat transfers into cooler -> heat transfers from cooler to the air in your computer -> air from your computer mixes with air in your room. A better cooler just makes step 2 & 3 happen faster. Just like turning your fridge to a colder setting does not change the overall temperature of your kitchen.
This is probably the mobo I'd recommend to you for the locked ivy bridge:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157302
in general what model mobo you get doesn't have much to do with whether you have to RMA it. The high end mobos sometimes get made wrong in the factory too.
And generally when I recommend a locked i5 I recommend the i5-3470, just because it's generally at $180, $20 or $30 cheaper than an i5-3570. But yes, the i5-3570 is the fastest locked i5.
Whether or not you want to go that route really depends on how much $50-80 means to you. That can be a big GPU upgrade, or maybe allow you to fit an SSD into the build. But if you're just going to put the savings in your pocket, well, maybe you'd rather have an overclocked i5-3570k. That's a personal preference thing. For you, overclocking probably wont' make much difference when playing games, but it might if you want to stream at high quality settings. So again, we look at how much the price difference is worth to you.
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Delidding a processor generally means you are also going to lap it.
For obvious reasons. Teamliquid never recommends these operations to anyone. We only talk about it amongst forum regulars.
On December 27 2012 23:25 Womwomwom wrote:Show nested quote +As in, you could spend $220+120 = $340 on an i5-3570k, OR you can buy an i3 $130 and whatever motherboard $30 any chipset = $160. The i3 will still perform very, very well. You could even buy a locked i5-2310 for $164 and it'd be MORE than powerful enough for any modern game, and a large chunk of cash. I'll be blunt: an alternative is that you can not force your financial situation on every single person on the world. Perhaps people like to maintain high and stable framerates while keeping high quality settings.
We ask for both budgets and expectations (like upgrade cycle) because of this. TL always suggests spending the minimum amount on hardware costs while satisfying all of the persons expectations. So even though in many cases the poster has the budget for a high end GPU, we suggest lower end models when we see the poster only plays LoL or SC2 or something.
CPU is in a similar circumstance but Im sure most of us build PC's in the same order. CPU first, with respect to streaming. Then various parts (case RAM etc). And finally we end up with GPU. If the GPU we need doesnt fit the budget, we go back to the processor and shave off money there (the other parts are always minimum cost parts with respect to quality).
We don't use the full budget unless necessary.
I didn't read this as forcing a financial circumstance, at least I didnt take it that way.
Everything else was silly though. Delidding is basically a hardware modification. And Ivy bridge has value beyond this.
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On December 28 2012 01:14 Ata wrote:Show nested quote +On December 28 2012 00:04 Hokay wrote:For anyone that does 1080p fraps video editing and Adobe After Effects vfx on uncompressed video, what hdd setup would you get with $200? A few dollars over the limit is ok. My current 500GB Samsung 7200 RPM, 16MB Cache just isn't cutting it. Would it be wise to use the Samsung as a scratch disk after I upgrade? or should I just use it for storage and backups? I'm contemplating on rolling dice on the Seagate Barracudas (read so many bad reviews, has 1 year warranty) over the more expensive WD Caviar Blacks with 5 year warranties. A 2GB WD Black is $150, and a 2GB SGB is $90-$110. I really want to get an SSD with at least 120GB for the OS & a couple of programs as well, but that only seems possible with a $200 budget if I go for the cheaper Seagate Barracuda, or a $90-$100 1TB WD Black. I don't think 1TB is enough, but then again I can just buy some more storage if I ever need more space down the road. I mostly do short 5-10 minute projects at most, then upload them to youtube. I don't know much about RAID-0 setups, but I was told not to attempt it unless I have a good backup system. So how does two 1TB Sea Barracudas set to RAID-0, and a third 1GB SG for boot? My 500GB Samsung & 320GB usb 2.0 external HDD on backup duty? The 1TB SG's are going for $70 at newegg. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148840&nm_mc=AFC-C8JUNCTION&cm_mmc=AFC-C8JUNCTION-_-EMC-122612-Latest-_-InternalHardDrives-_-22148840-L0C&PID=1225267&SID=9eIhiFArEeKRNUoKgdashQs7X5_kjBN3_0_0_0&AID=10440897My concern is reliability. Finally I'm wondering if my PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341022can handle all the components. My current rig has all stock settings: i7 3770k 16GB G.SKILL Sniper Gaming Series ATI HD 5850 500GB Samsung HDD 7200 RPM 16MB Cache 4 case fans & a hyper 212+ Hey, I have never done any video editing but wanted to show you these deals: $99 (5y warranty) Intel 520 Series 120GB http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=67708&manufacture=Intel&promoid=1368$89 (3y warranty) Intel X25-M 160GB http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-Details.asp?EdpNo=5250507&sku=I69-7010meh deal: $70 Seagate Barracuda 1.5TB 7200RPM http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=70854&promoid=1146
X25-M is slow at writes, slower than a hard drive. The Intel 520 could be interesting, but that's probably not enough space.
I'd just keep running the OS off the same drive and get two (or three) new hard drives for RAID 0 to use as a scratch space to dump and manipulate content. Keep important stuff backed up elsewhere, as always.
OCZ Fatal1ty (lol branding) 550W is okay.
On December 27 2012 06:39 Myrmidon wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Nobody sane expected 20% IB improvement over SB (at least per clock), just saying. Architectural changes were known to be minimal; it was a "tick" after all. Given the changes SB -> IB, if you count that as 5-10% and look at the changes IB -> Haswell, why in the world would you expect that to be 10% as well? edit: okay I know that's stretching the 5-10% range, where 10% is too optimistic, but the kind of CPU (not just iGPU, power) changes are not comparable at all—that's the point.
So anyway, expectations are 10+% now? More than 10%... probably, but not a whole lot more. Definitely not anything like 25%. And this is not including benefits from TSX, though of course those x86 extensions are always a "wait and see", is anybody actually taking advantage? kind of situation.
On second thought, after looking things through again, I'm dialing down expectations for Haswell CPU performance. It's just that SB -> IB improvement quoted at 5-10% (per clock) would be a bit too generous of an assessment for an average of workloads. Haswell has more changes, so it might be more like 10% actually or a bit higher. Again, depends on what code is run as different improvements are advantageous for different things. That is, 10+% for running existing code, not anything that can use the new extensions.
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Hi guys, I would really appreciate it if someone could help me out building a new computer. I've built computers before, but I have no idea what to buy and whats compatible; its too risky for me to go figure it out on my own...
My budget is about $1,000 - $1,500. Perferably on the lower side.
I am also planning to dual screen Acer G205HVbd Black 20" 5ms Widescreen LCD Monitor 200 cd/m2 ACM 5,000:1 (700:1), but if anyone has a better monitor that they could suggest, I am open to all suggestions  .
I am planning to use it for mainly gaming and streaming, but the occasion video watching.
My upgrade cycle is preferable 2+ years, but I can do short.
I plan to start building it as soon as I can. I have the money ready to go.
No overclocking.
The OS will be Windows 7.
I plan to also use Newegg to get all my parts.
EDIT: I would also like to get an SSD
Again, I would really appreciate the help!
Thank you!
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On a $1000-1500 budget, I recommend not skimping hard on monitors. Do you prefer smaller or larger? If smaller, you want 20" exactly, or is 21.5" okay?
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Hmmm.... anything works for me to be honest. 21.5 is alright. I perfer anysize to be frank... I've lived with really small monitors, so anything is larger than what I have atm. lol.
EDIT: yeah, the monitor I have a 17inch... ahahha XD
EDIT2: I am just more worried about the CPU/Motherboard is all.
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$90 monitors arent the way to go. Youll really regret having a great computer that outputs a great image and then it gets ruined by your viewing experience.
Especially with $1500 to play with you should get at least one great monitor in the $300 to $400 range. or at least $200 - $300
Dont worry because, especially since you arent overclocking, the rest of the build wont be expensive at all.
You can get:
i5-3550
B75 board.
Rosewill capstone 450.
Haf 912 or similar case
8 gb of 1333 RAM
Hard drive
Optical drive.
For maybe around $550 depending.
Then you have whatever is left over. Can go with an SSD and a 7870 for probably the best price performance.
If you want to dual screen. THEN get an additional $90 monitor if you really want to. Gaming on two monitors is a terrible idea anyway.
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On December 28 2012 06:34 Medrea wrote:
$90 monitors arent the way to go. Youll really regret having a great computer that outputs a great image and then it gets ruined by your viewing experience.
Especially with $1500 to play with you should get at least one great monitor in the $300 to $400 range. or at least $200 - $300
Dont worry because, especially since you arent overclocking, the rest of the build wont be expensive at all.
You can get:
i5-3550
B75 board.
Rosewill capstone 450.
Haf 912 or similar case
8 gb of 1333 RAM
Hard drive
Optical drive.
For maybe around $550 depending.
Then you have whatever is left over. Can go with an SSD and a 7870 for probably the best price performance.
If you want to dual screen. THEN get an additional $90 monitor if you really want to. Gaming on two monitors is a terrible idea anyway.
I plan to game on one monitor, and do other stuff on the other monitor. I always alt-tab anyway, but my question is how about the graphics card? Radeon over Nvidia in my case?
In addition... how about http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146074 as my case. would that work?
again, another question; sorry for so many questions. Will 8 gb of Ram be enough? What would be pros/cons of having more ram?
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That case is a tad expensive considering your needs are very low.
8gb is more than enough. Having too much RAM does nothing bad but doesnt net you any gain either. That and RAM is cheap so if you find you need more, adding it is easy.
If you really want that case, go for it, but you will prob have to pull from somewhere.
AMD has better prices at most price ranges. You would have to check for individual games that you play.
Like what games do you play?
also need os?
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Sorry about being so back and forth on this, but I'm just trying to figure out what makes the most sense with the remaining money in my budget.
I'm starting to crunch the numbers more and more and am coming to the conclusion that while staying under my 750 budget, I CAN get the 3570k and a decent mobo to OC with. So I might as well spend the extra 40 or so dollars since I won't be upgrading anything else much with the money. The suggestions have once again, been great. I'd say I'm comfortable buying any part on my own except the mobo, as there's so many that I get overwhelmed (but yet with all the rebranded GPUs that exist I seem to be fine ).
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Hello, fellow Team Liquidians! I was hoping you could help me with building a desktop and give feedback on my currently selected parts. I've used some recent advice posts as guidelines, while trying to keep my budget in mind. Without further ado:
The basic info requested per OP, spoilered to make this post shorter: + Show Spoiler +What is your budget? ~1000 - 1150 Euros (= ~1300 - 1500$) Budget includes monitor. What is your resolution? 1920x1080 What are you using it for? Gaming mostly, as well as Photoshop on a starting hobbyist level. What is your upgrade cycle? 2+ years (Hopefully closer to 3-4 years) When do you plan on building it? During January. Not sure if after Christmas sales will drop the prices in the next week or two, but if not, I could build it immediately. Do you plan on overclocking? I’d rather not due to my noob-ishness, but if the benefits are worth the effort, I could consider it. Do you need an Operating System? Nope. Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire? Nope. Where are you buying your parts from? I’m living in the UK, so any web store that delivers to UK addresses. In my build so far, I’ve utilized www.hardwareversand.de . Other options are www.amazon.de and www.amazon.co.uk , as well as www.pixmania.com . Additional notes:1. I am going to buy a monitor as well. The one I’ve had in mind are Dell Ultrasharp U2312HM (199 euros at hardwareversand.de), and from reading the TL Monitor Thread it seems to be quite a good monitor price-to-quality wise. Feedback appreciated. 2. I’d like to get an SSD for the OS and some games, but which one and how large (128? 256?) I have no clue.
Current Build:
Motherboard: ASRock H77M Socket 1155, mATX @ 67.19€ Link
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570 Box, LGA 1155 @ 186.42€ Link
RAM: 8GB-Kit Kingston HyperX blu black @ 39.65€ Link
GPU: MSI Radeon HD7870 2GB @ 211.41€ Link
PSU: Super-Flower SF450P14XE Golden Green Pro 80plus gold @ 63.98€ Link
HDD: WD Scorpio Black 500GB 7200rpm @ 61.26€ Link
SSD: No idea. Big enough for the OS and some programs
DVD-Player: Asus DRW-24B5ST bare @ 20.88€ Link
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 @ 69.41€ Link
Monitor: Dell Ultrasharp U2312HM @ 199€ Link
Total: 936€ (+13€ Postage)
So there it is, with currently some room in the budget for an SSD and/or upgrades, but if there is a component that does the same job but cheaper/more efficiently, do tell. All feedback is welcome and appreciated. And thank you in advance!
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On December 28 2012 06:49 Serpico wrote:Sorry about being so back and forth on this, but I'm just trying to figure out what makes the most sense with the remaining money in my budget. I'm starting to crunch the numbers more and more and am coming to the conclusion that while staying under my 750 budget, I CAN get the 3570k and a decent mobo to OC with. So I might as well spend the extra 40 or so dollars since I won't be upgrading anything else much with the money. The suggestions have once again, been great. I'd say I'm comfortable buying any part on my own except the mobo, as there's so many that I get overwhelmed (but yet with all the rebranded GPUs that exist I seem to be fine ).
The closer the decision is, the less you have to worry about making a mistake with the budget.
Since you arent an enthusiast, getting the cheapest Z77 board money can buy is often a good buy with motherboards. We aren't really a spot in the industry where a major player is making bad products. PSU's sure there are plenty of minefields. Motherboards not so much.
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I would go with a Xeon. A 7950 if you get a 2560 x 1440/1600 monitor or a 7870 with a 1920 x 1080/1200 monitor. A phantom 410 is $30 cheaper and looks the same as the Full Tower Version.
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EPT
