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5930 Posts
The NZXT Vulcan can have clearance issues with big heatsinks so beware. I believe it has problems both with height (the case is less wide than you think it is) and width (top fans are too close to CPU socket).
Its a pretty uninspiring case in my opinion like a lot of NZXT's cases. Thin metal, awful quality paintjob, etc. A bit too easy to knock around. Unlike the Coolermaster case you mentioned, the handles are connected to the chassis with two tiny screws so I dunno if I would trust the handle. It's only good point is that it's fairly cheap.
Honestly speaking, I'd pick a Silverstone TJ08-E over it any day of the week. Or a whole slew of other mATX cases.
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+ Show Spoiler +On December 27 2012 10:42 Myrmidon wrote:If you don't have a MicroCenter location nearby, $230 for an i5-3570k is high but not like $50 high. It's $220 on newegg now, with typical prices $210-215 online somewhere, maybe slightly less with a good sale or combo. That'st the thing I'd get at Best Buy, so you can get everything elsewhere. AsRock Z75 Pro3 ($85). http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157304If your case is wide enough to fit ~160mm above the motherboard tray then a typical 120mm fan tower cooler like the $20 Xigmatek Gaia would fit: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233082Otherwise you'd have to look at other options. For power supply, if you can't afford more, get Corsair CX430: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139026Otherwise, Rosewill Capstone at $60 or if you can catch the Shell Shocker (deal ending soon), the Rosewill Fortress for $70 before $25 rebate: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182066http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182081You can open up the computer and look at it, but RAM can be detected by software easily. I forget if it shows up anywhere in Windows, but you can download and run something like CPU-Z or Speccy probably. If you know what your motherboard is, then that would tell you as well. Actually, if you have certain processors, that can tell you too, but some models for a time could be used with either DDR2 or DDR3 depending on the system. My current set-up is this http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/Document.jsp?objectID=c02481326&lang=en&cc=us&prodSeriesId=4269976 Using a GT 520 , everything else is the same
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On December 27 2012 11:09 Womwomwom wrote: The NZXT Vulcan can have clearance issues with big heatsinks so beware. I believe it has problems both with height (the case is less wide than you think it is) and width (top fans are too close to CPU socket).
Its a pretty uninspiring case in my opinion like a lot of NZXT's cases. Thin metal, awful quality paintjob, etc. A bit too easy to knock around. Unlike the Coolermaster case you mentioned, the handles are connected to the chassis with two tiny screws so I dunno if I would trust the handle. It's only good point is that it's fairly cheap.
Honestly speaking, I'd pick a Silverstone TJ08-E over it any day of the week. Or a whole slew of other mATX cases.
Hmm I see. Tough call, really. My situation is that I travel back and forth between Norway and the UK several times a year due to school. I've split my monitors and I have one in each country, and I want to be able to bring my PC back home for Christmas/Easter/Summer holidays. The only reason to get a mATX would be if I'd be to bring it with me on the plane relatively easy. Else I might as well get a bigger case and spare the travel pain by just bringing safely packaged parts.
The only other mATX case I've found with a handle is http://www.scan.co.uk/products/silverstone-sst-sg04b-fh-sugo-sff-micro-atx-w-handle-bar-black which doesnt look too bad I guess. Might just get the Vulcan and hope for the best, so far it seems like my tiny heatsink'll fit and everything /should/ be fine :3
Updated list (plus Gigabyte 7870 and case): http://www.komplett.no/k/shoplist.aspx?mode=receive&si=1173972&su=576DDBDB-01C2-4CD1-B3B7-11910C196D50
Total: ~$950+300+case which still is fine.
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On December 27 2012 09:40 Serpico wrote: I'm keeping my same case/monitor/PSU (CM 690/24'' samsung/850 watt corsair non modular) So it won't be a COMPLETE rebuild, but here it is. I believe the mobo is ivy bridge ready, I've built my own pc before but I'm still left guessing a lot with mobos. Suggestions would be good but I would like to keep it under 750 at the most. I will not be doing much OCing at all and am more conscious about temps with this build than my last (while reducing noise). I really like the GPU as I don't want to spend the money for a Ti and it has a very nice cooler.
CORSAIR XMS 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 MSI Z77A-G41 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 GIGABYTE GV-N660OC-2GD GeForce GTX 660 2GB Intel Core i5-3570 Ivy Bridge 3.4Ghz Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB 7200 RPM SATA COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO Heatsink
(only minor part in build) XIGMATEK FCB (Fluid Circulative Bearing) Cooling System XLF-F1254 120mm White LED Black Case Fan
total: $719.93
Prices from newegg.
g41 is a terrible motherboard, there's no voltage control. You might as well buy a non-k edition on the cheapest ivb compatible board possible, if you really wanted ivb.
Also if you want to save money, you should buy a z68 chipset motherboard, you can find them used where the bios has been flashed by a previous user, you can ask a local PC store to flash a new bios for you with an sb cpu, you can just straight up use Sandy bridge 2500k on a p67/z68 because there's no reason to buy ivy bridge unless you are willing to delid the CPU (otherwise it's higher OC sb vs lower oc IB, which will be equal performance), or you can simply get a bios chip (many manufacturers will give you one for free or you can send your board in, worst case scenario you pay $10 for a bios chip on ebay/manufacturer for a motherboard that's 2x the quality at 1/2 the price).
I really wouldn't recommend a 3570k unless you are willing to delid the cpu. the 3570k, as I understand it, actually overclocks farther and cooler than the sb, but you have to delid it (cut the IHS off using a razor blade and rub off the IHS glue, there's a gap because of the glue that causes IB's high temps at higher volts, but replacing the TIM will help you out even more). If you don't delid, you can get a SB that will overclock further than a non-delidded IB, which will even the 2 CPUs out. Plus, the cost.
I mean it's a $40 price premium for IB, generally, vendor to vendor. IB is maybe 5% better in applications, so assuming a moderate overclock of 4.8ghz on SB/ 4.5ghz on IB, that's 300 mhz - 240mhz = 60mhz for $40. Now, if your willing to delid the IB, that's a full 240mhz just equal overclocks, and given that IB overclocks higher than SB once delidded, your looking at 300-400+ mhz for $40, which is actually worthwhile (5ghz ib, or rather 200mhz higher overclock relatively, + 200-300mhz just for clock for clock performance).
My point here, is that if your willing to delid, you should have the technical know-how and expertise to buy a z68 motherboard, and make things work (swap out bios, buy it used with the newest bios already, whatever). If you aren't tech savvy enough or comfortable enough to delid, frankly, you should buy a sandy bridge CPU for way less, and then a p67/z68 motherboard for basically 1/4th the cost of a z77.
I mean your paying $80+ for your G41, and it's a piece of shit motherboard. Generally VRMs aren't a huge issue on p67/z68/z77 motherboards because they are usually so expensive that they come with good VRMs, but a 4+1 unheatsinked phase with shitty quality nikos mosfets? Your overclocks are gonna be unstable and low on such a board (although that doesnt matter, you cant even overvolt, but i still would question overclocking on a 4+1 phase).
Avoid the G41 and G43. I think for MSI you gotta go at least 55 for an okay motherboard, and even the 55 is crap in terms of features.
You don't need 2GB of VRAM with sc2. If you plan to play other games, whatever. You would be hard pressed to go past 1gb on sc2.
I'd recommend against the Hyper 212 evo. It's just a lapped hyper 212+, basically, with a louder and stronger fan. You can buy a Hyper 212+ (which tend to be on better sales and discounts, by the way) and then 1.5g of PK-3 thermal paste, and get better temps than using the Hyper 212 Evo, and it'll be quieter. You can even afford a decent fan for the price difference, on top of $4 thermal paste (that includes shipping by the way), so you have push/pull 212+ w/ high grade thermal paste (that you can use on your GPU and on future builds) for the same price as the Evo, and, you can lap the 212+ to get that 1-3*C difference of the 212+ vs Evo.
There's also a ton of closed loop 120mm radiators going for really good deals now too, that'd I'd strongly recommend over the Hyper 212+/Evo as a budget cooler. I mean if you only got $20, get the Hyper 212+. If you go the money (and you do if your going for an evo...), then get a closed loop. It all depends on the price, but basically:
H60=Antec Kuhler 620 > H55=H50 w/smooth tubes (which is what the h55 is, sometimes its sold as updated h50) > H50 w/corrugated tubes > H70 (piece of shit cooler with 2 loud and shitty fans stock so it performs better at stock but apples for apples its worse and the 2 fans it comes with are so terrible you wouldnt want them free even, or just better to use as case fans).
You can find such coolers for around $39 new now, and you can find a used H50 for $20 on ebay right now, same price as a hyper 212+.
You can also find good deals on the NH-D14/K2/Assassin right now too, for around $50. If your getting an SB/IB, it's definitely worth getting to push a further overclock, and will really lengthen the life and overclock of your CPU. They'll give a good 20*C+ over the hyper 212 and 10-15+ over closed loops.
Do you really need 1TB of a HDD? I'd recommend with an sb/ib build you look into getting an ssd. if you need 1tb, you need 1tb, but you can get a really, really good deal on some 64-128GB ssds for around $100 or less right now. If you dont use more than 50gb of HDD (w7 64bit ultimate with a bunch of smaller programs, office, and HOTS will come to around 50gb, not sure if you play other games) then consider an SSD for the same price.
16gb of RAM is way too much. There's no reason to need more than 4GB unless you do video editing or flash. Shaving $40 off your build and another $20 somewhere else could get you an SSD for $60, new.
If your on budget and really have to get a Z77, I'd recommend the asrock Pro 3. But I really wouldn't recommend z77 over z68 these days. Buy a z68, and figure out the bios problem for $50-100 savings, basically. I'd say it's worth $50-100 to simply buy a $10 bios chip and swap it in. many companies, like NCIX, are selling their p67/z68s for really cheap these days.
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For $18.99 the Hyper 212+ is the right deal. I'd recommend a better cooler, it's a terrible cooler, it's just good for the price, but your gonna need more than a hyper 212+ for really overclocking a K edition intel.
Ram is a good choice if you really need 8gb instead of 4gb.
BitFenix is sold out. I'd recommend the NZXT Source 210 over the Bitfenix though. both are fine cases but I don't like how the bitfenix doesnt have a side vent, which I think is a rather important feature on gaming rigs. Of course if you want quiet, it's better, maybe htpc builds.
I wouldn't recommend the asrock z77 extreme3. It got some really nasty reviews at hardocp (from more than 1 reviewer). It does not overclock well at all compared to other boards. It does have a lot of features, but it's not a great overclocker. There are better boards.
See above post on my thoughts on Z77, and buying z68 instead. That is a good price for a z77 though.
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On December 27 2012 13:46 Belial88 wrote:Show nested quote +On December 27 2012 09:40 Serpico wrote: I'm keeping my same case/monitor/PSU (CM 690/24'' samsung/850 watt corsair non modular) So it won't be a COMPLETE rebuild, but here it is. I believe the mobo is ivy bridge ready, I've built my own pc before but I'm still left guessing a lot with mobos. Suggestions would be good but I would like to keep it under 750 at the most. I will not be doing much OCing at all and am more conscious about temps with this build than my last (while reducing noise). I really like the GPU as I don't want to spend the money for a Ti and it has a very nice cooler.
CORSAIR XMS 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 MSI Z77A-G41 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 GIGABYTE GV-N660OC-2GD GeForce GTX 660 2GB Intel Core i5-3570 Ivy Bridge 3.4Ghz Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB 7200 RPM SATA COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO Heatsink
(only minor part in build) XIGMATEK FCB (Fluid Circulative Bearing) Cooling System XLF-F1254 120mm White LED Black Case Fan
total: $719.93
Prices from newegg. g41 is a terrible motherboard, there's no voltage control. You might as well buy a non-k edition on the cheapest ivb compatible board possible, if you really wanted ivb. Also if you want to save money, you should buy a z68 chipset motherboard, you can find them used where the bios has been flashed by a previous user, you can ask a local PC store to flash a new bios for you with an sb cpu, you can just straight up use Sandy bridge 2500k on a p67/z68 because there's no reason to buy ivy bridge unless you are willing to delid the CPU (otherwise it's higher OC sb vs lower oc IB, which will be equal performance), or you can simply get a bios chip (many manufacturers will give you one for free or you can send your board in, worst case scenario you pay $10 for a bios chip on ebay/manufacturer for a motherboard that's 2x the quality at 1/2 the price). + Show Spoiler +
I really wouldn't recommend a 3570k unless you are willing to delid the cpu. the 3570k, as I understand it, actually overclocks farther and cooler than the sb, but you have to delid it (cut the IHS off using a razor blade and rub off the IHS glue, there's a gap because of the glue that causes IB's high temps at higher volts, but replacing the TIM will help you out even more). If you don't delid, you can get a SB that will overclock further than a non-delidded IB, which will even the 2 CPUs out. Plus, the cost.
I mean it's a $40 price premium for IB, generally, vendor to vendor. IB is maybe 5% better in applications, so assuming a moderate overclock of 4.8ghz on SB/ 4.5ghz on IB, that's 300 mhz - 240mhz = 60mhz for $40. Now, if your willing to delid the IB, that's a full 240mhz just equal overclocks, and given that IB overclocks higher than SB once delidded, your looking at 300-400+ mhz for $40, which is actually worthwhile (5ghz ib, or rather 200mhz higher overclock relatively, + 200-300mhz just for clock for clock performance).
My point here, is that if your willing to delid, you should have the technical know-how and expertise to buy a z68 motherboard, and make things work (swap out bios, buy it used with the newest bios already, whatever). If you aren't tech savvy enough or comfortable enough to delid, frankly, you should buy a sandy bridge CPU for way less, and then a p67/z68 motherboard for basically 1/4th the cost of a z77.
I mean your paying $80+ for your G41, and it's a piece of shit motherboard. Generally VRMs aren't a huge issue on p67/z68/z77 motherboards because they are usually so expensive that they come with good VRMs, but a 4+1 unheatsinked phase with shitty quality nikos mosfets? Your overclocks are gonna be unstable and low on such a board (although that doesnt matter, you cant even overvolt, but i still would question overclocking on a 4+1 phase).
Avoid the G41 and G43. I think for MSI you gotta go at least 55 for an okay motherboard, and even the 55 is crap in terms of features.
You don't need 2GB of VRAM with sc2. If you plan to play other games, whatever. You would be hard pressed to go past 1gb on sc2.
I'd recommend against the Hyper 212 evo. It's just a lapped hyper 212+, basically, with a louder and stronger fan. You can buy a Hyper 212+ (which tend to be on better sales and discounts, by the way) and then 1.5g of PK-3 thermal paste, and get better temps than using the Hyper 212 Evo, and it'll be quieter. You can even afford a decent fan for the price difference, on top of $4 thermal paste (that includes shipping by the way), so you have push/pull 212+ w/ high grade thermal paste (that you can use on your GPU and on future builds) for the same price as the Evo, and, you can lap the 212+ to get that 1-3*C difference of the 212+ vs Evo.
There's also a ton of closed loop 120mm radiators going for really good deals now too, that'd I'd strongly recommend over the Hyper 212+/Evo as a budget cooler. I mean if you only got $20, get the Hyper 212+. If you go the money (and you do if your going for an evo...), then get a closed loop. It all depends on the price, but basically:
H60=Antec Kuhler 620 > H55=H50 w/smooth tubes (which is what the h55 is, sometimes its sold as updated h50) > H50 w/corrugated tubes > H70 (piece of shit cooler with 2 loud and shitty fans stock so it performs better at stock but apples for apples its worse and the 2 fans it comes with are so terrible you wouldnt want them free even, or just better to use as case fans).
You can find such coolers for around $39 new now, and you can find a used H50 for $20 on ebay right now, same price as a hyper 212+.
You can also find good deals on the NH-D14/K2/Assassin right now too, for around $50. If your getting an SB/IB, it's definitely worth getting to push a further overclock, and will really lengthen the life and overclock of your CPU. They'll give a good 20*C+ over the hyper 212 and 10-15+ over closed loops.
Do you really need 1TB of a HDD? I'd recommend with an sb/ib build you look into getting an ssd. if you need 1tb, you need 1tb, but you can get a really, really good deal on some 64-128GB ssds for around $100 or less right now. If you dont use more than 50gb of HDD (w7 64bit ultimate with a bunch of smaller programs, office, and HOTS will come to around 50gb, not sure if you play other games) then consider an SSD for the same price.
16gb of RAM is way too much. There's no reason to need more than 4GB unless you do video editing or flash. Shaving $40 off your build and another $20 somewhere else could get you an SSD for $60, new.
If your on budget and really have to get a Z77, I'd recommend the asrock Pro 3. But I really wouldn't recommend z77 over z68 these days. Buy a z68, and figure out the bios problem for $50-100 savings, basically. I'd say it's worth $50-100 to simply buy a $10 bios chip and swap it in. many companies, like NCIX, are selling their p67/z68s for really cheap these days.
 @Belial Most people here just want a computer to game on. Delidding is just silly to mention. Edit: especially when his original post says he wants to overclock lightly at best. You need to tailor your responses to the person you're responding to, and assume the average person is not a computer enthusiast who wants to get things just right - spending hours of their own time in the process.
@Serpico The above was terrible advice. You can safely avoid it unless you overclock for fun. Here's some more reasonable advice:
First, be clear whether you want to overclock or not. You mentioned an i5-3570. There are two kinds of these. One ends in a K, as in i5-3570K. The other does not, a regular 'ole i5-3570. The second belongs in the class of locked Intel i5 processors - it cannot be overclocked. Presumably you meant the i5-3570K, so you can overclock. We assume this because you chose a Z77 motherboard & an aftermarket cooler - Z77 being a slightly more expensive motherboard style built for overclocking. If you didn't want to overclock, you should probably get the i5-3470 (about the same performance, costs less) and a B75 or H77 motherboard (costs less than a Z77, can't overclock).
As for the MSI z77A-G41 (possible typo there), it's not a very good overclocking board since it is very limited in how much voltage you can give the processor. So only moderate overclocks are possible. Then again, it is cheap and given that limitation, not necessarily a bad idea. If you were planning on overclocking more than just a little, you'd probably prefer a better motherboard like an Asrock Z77 Pro3 or a Gigabyte Z77-d3h or -ds3h (not the exact model #, but close enough).
As for the Coolermaster 212 Evo, it's a fine choice for cooling on a budget. But currently I'd recommend the Xigmatek Gaia because it is on special & near the Evo in performance. Also potentially quieter. If you weren't planning on overclocking, you just use the stock fan that comes with the CPU. If the noise of that bugs you (unlikely), then you can get the Gaia. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233082&Tpk=xigmatek gaia
If you're not sure if you want to overclock much, I'd recommend just getting a locked i5 & a cheaper mobo + sticking with the stock cooler. That should save you $70 or more you can use on GPU (i5-3470 should be about $40 less than an i5-3570k, $180 at us.ncix.com, mobo should be about $30 less, plus you safe on not getting a cooler if you choose not to).
That should cover CPU, mobo, and cooler. As for the rest of the parts The hard drive looks fine. I suggest sticking with 1TB as its usually only $15-20 more compared to a 500gb version. You shouldn't need the fan unless you wanted the shiny LED for looks. Or maybe it's some super-quiet fan replacing a noisy case fan. I wouldn't know. On video card I usually recommend AMD for better cost-effectiveness, but the nvidia cards are supposed to be quieter, so if that's important to you, stick with what you have.
Well I also wrote a wall of text, so between Belial & I your eyes are probably bleeding. But hopefully that helps. Re-reading your post I was a bit too noob-friendly. But whatever, you get the idea.
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So what's the difference between:
SSDSA2M080G2LE SSDSA2M080G2GC
???
Passmark lists the LE as 1392, and the GC as 1300.
Aren't they both x25-m's? I have never heard of the SSDSA2M080G2LE. Before I take the plunge and buy a x25-m 80GB ssd for $52, I'd like to make sure that the SSDSA2M080G2LE isn't something different or weird.
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Hey guys I was thinking of buying a pc that has these parts. Can someone tell me if its good enough to stream HOTS and maybe Dota 2 and stuff like that at 720p/60fps?
Specs:
Asus P8-Z68 full ATX motherboard EVGA 01G-P3-1561-AR GeForce GTX 560 Ti FPB (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI
Support Video Card
Asus 24x dvd-Rw drive
Asus PCE-N15 wireless N PCI-E adapter
16 GB Of Corsair Vengeance series RAM
Corsair TX650 Power Supply
500GB Hdd
Intel core2 i7 2600k 3.4GHZ Quad Core Processor.
Thanks! <3
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On December 27 2012 14:46 Belial88 wrote:+ Show Spoiler +So what's the difference between:
SSDSA2M080G2LE SSDSA2M080G2GC
???
Passmark lists the LE as 1392, and the GC as 1300.
Aren't they both x25-m's? I have never heard of the SSDSA2M080G2LE. Before I take the plunge and buy a x25-m 80GB ssd for $52, I'd like to make sure that the SSDSA2M080G2LE isn't something different or weird.
Both the same.
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Most people here just want a computer to game on. Delidding is just silly to mention. Edit: especially when his original post says he wants to overclock lightly at best. You need to tailor your responses to the person you're responding to, and assume the average person is not a computer enthusiast who wants to get things just right - spending hours of their own time in the process.
You don't have to delid right away, you can delid it in 2 years. If you aren't going to take full advantage of the 3570k, which means overvolting it and pushing it to 4.5+ ghz, then you shouldn't buy it. You are better off getting a 2500k if you aren't going to delid, it'll run just the same as a 3570k when overclocked (since it'll overclock further).
The 3570k is an enthusiast chip, meant to be pushed for overclocking. it overclocks coolly and well, if you aren't going to push it, then there's no reason to buy it over the 2500k. Might even be better off with something like a non-K edition ivy bridge.
It is not terrible advice, it's the correct advice. There's no reason to buy a chip that's $40+ more expensive, and is going to perform exactly the same. You have to delid to make the ivy bridge perform better.
The Evo is not a good buy. There are hundreds of coolers out there, it's a competitive market, especially when you include fans and thermal pastes. The ~$9 premium the Evo is over the Hyper 212 (not including the fact that the hyper 212+ tends to be on bigger sales), is not worth it.
At stock, the evo performs at best, 2-3*C better, and that's ONLY because it has a louder and more powerful fan at stock which sucks anyways (the Cm fans are just absolutely terrible, they are incredibly loud and have a very obnoxious buzzing/pinging) and because it's lapped. With identical fans, the Evo only performs about 1-2*C better, which is the same difference you'd get just by lapping the Hyper 212+. And all of this, is actually a lower difference in temps you'd get than if you simply spent $4 (including shipping) for 1.5g of some thermal paste like PK-3, MX-4, Gelid.
Hyper 212+, + 1.5g of PK-3 (or mx-4, or nht1, or whatever, even as5 as bad as it is), is a better value for the money, than a hyper 212 evo. You can even afford a yate loon high in there.
I would always recommend you buy what suits it for overclocking, otherwise get non-k edition and the cheapest non-overclock motherboard for like $20 (or even that shitty g41 for $20 after deals at microcenter). Buying middle of the road makes no sense at all. It doesn't make sense to buy an i5-3570k if you aren't going to delid, it doesnt make sense to buy a g41.
You dont have to delid today, you can delid in the future. But if you are aren't interested in pushing your overclock, then you have a way better value in the 2500k.
If you're not sure if you want to overclock much, I'd recommend just getting a locked i5 & a cheaper mobo + sticking with the stock cooler. That should save you $70 or more you can use on GPU (i5-3470 should be about $40 less than an i5-3570k, $180 at us.ncix.com, mobo should be about $30 less, plus you safe on not getting a cooler if you choose not to).
I'd agree with this sentiment.
I know what I'm doing. What I posted was not at all bad advice. There's no reason to spend too much money on certain parts, what I'm posting can pocket you lots of money and net you a lot more performance, and is more reasonable. If you aren't going to delid, there's no reason to buy the i5-3570k. It's known to be a hotter chip/worse overclocker for a reason, and it's performance is not so great that it'd beat the i5-2500k, which is gonna overclock better stock vs stock.
The problem with the 3570k has to do with the way it's metal IHS is glued on top of the chip, if your willing to stick a razor blade into the chip very carefully, it's definitely worth getting. Otherwise, the 2500k is going to be the exact same performance for $40 less.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-ivy-bridge-club
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On December 27 2012 14:59 skyR wrote:Show nested quote +On December 27 2012 14:46 Belial88 wrote:+ Show Spoiler +So what's the difference between:
SSDSA2M080G2LE SSDSA2M080G2GC
???
Passmark lists the LE as 1392, and the GC as 1300.
Aren't they both x25-m's? I have never heard of the SSDSA2M080G2LE. Before I take the plunge and buy a x25-m 80GB ssd for $52, I'd like to make sure that the SSDSA2M080G2LE isn't something different or weird. Both the same.
Thanks. I'll be taking the plunge and buying it then. $52 for 80gb x25-m.
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+ Show Spoiler +On December 27 2012 14:07 MisterFred wrote:Show nested quote +On December 27 2012 13:46 Belial88 wrote:On December 27 2012 09:40 Serpico wrote: I'm keeping my same case/monitor/PSU (CM 690/24'' samsung/850 watt corsair non modular) So it won't be a COMPLETE rebuild, but here it is. I believe the mobo is ivy bridge ready, I've built my own pc before but I'm still left guessing a lot with mobos. Suggestions would be good but I would like to keep it under 750 at the most. I will not be doing much OCing at all and am more conscious about temps with this build than my last (while reducing noise). I really like the GPU as I don't want to spend the money for a Ti and it has a very nice cooler.
CORSAIR XMS 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 MSI Z77A-G41 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 GIGABYTE GV-N660OC-2GD GeForce GTX 660 2GB Intel Core i5-3570 Ivy Bridge 3.4Ghz Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB 7200 RPM SATA COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO Heatsink
(only minor part in build) XIGMATEK FCB (Fluid Circulative Bearing) Cooling System XLF-F1254 120mm White LED Black Case Fan
total: $719.93
Prices from newegg. g41 is a terrible motherboard, there's no voltage control. You might as well buy a non-k edition on the cheapest ivb compatible board possible, if you really wanted ivb. Also if you want to save money, you should buy a z68 chipset motherboard, you can find them used where the bios has been flashed by a previous user, you can ask a local PC store to flash a new bios for you with an sb cpu, you can just straight up use Sandy bridge 2500k on a p67/z68 because there's no reason to buy ivy bridge unless you are willing to delid the CPU (otherwise it's higher OC sb vs lower oc IB, which will be equal performance), or you can simply get a bios chip (many manufacturers will give you one for free or you can send your board in, worst case scenario you pay $10 for a bios chip on ebay/manufacturer for a motherboard that's 2x the quality at 1/2 the price). + Show Spoiler +
I really wouldn't recommend a 3570k unless you are willing to delid the cpu. the 3570k, as I understand it, actually overclocks farther and cooler than the sb, but you have to delid it (cut the IHS off using a razor blade and rub off the IHS glue, there's a gap because of the glue that causes IB's high temps at higher volts, but replacing the TIM will help you out even more). If you don't delid, you can get a SB that will overclock further than a non-delidded IB, which will even the 2 CPUs out. Plus, the cost.
I mean it's a $40 price premium for IB, generally, vendor to vendor. IB is maybe 5% better in applications, so assuming a moderate overclock of 4.8ghz on SB/ 4.5ghz on IB, that's 300 mhz - 240mhz = 60mhz for $40. Now, if your willing to delid the IB, that's a full 240mhz just equal overclocks, and given that IB overclocks higher than SB once delidded, your looking at 300-400+ mhz for $40, which is actually worthwhile (5ghz ib, or rather 200mhz higher overclock relatively, + 200-300mhz just for clock for clock performance).
My point here, is that if your willing to delid, you should have the technical know-how and expertise to buy a z68 motherboard, and make things work (swap out bios, buy it used with the newest bios already, whatever). If you aren't tech savvy enough or comfortable enough to delid, frankly, you should buy a sandy bridge CPU for way less, and then a p67/z68 motherboard for basically 1/4th the cost of a z77.
I mean your paying $80+ for your G41, and it's a piece of shit motherboard. Generally VRMs aren't a huge issue on p67/z68/z77 motherboards because they are usually so expensive that they come with good VRMs, but a 4+1 unheatsinked phase with shitty quality nikos mosfets? Your overclocks are gonna be unstable and low on such a board (although that doesnt matter, you cant even overvolt, but i still would question overclocking on a 4+1 phase).
Avoid the G41 and G43. I think for MSI you gotta go at least 55 for an okay motherboard, and even the 55 is crap in terms of features.
You don't need 2GB of VRAM with sc2. If you plan to play other games, whatever. You would be hard pressed to go past 1gb on sc2.
I'd recommend against the Hyper 212 evo. It's just a lapped hyper 212+, basically, with a louder and stronger fan. You can buy a Hyper 212+ (which tend to be on better sales and discounts, by the way) and then 1.5g of PK-3 thermal paste, and get better temps than using the Hyper 212 Evo, and it'll be quieter. You can even afford a decent fan for the price difference, on top of $4 thermal paste (that includes shipping by the way), so you have push/pull 212+ w/ high grade thermal paste (that you can use on your GPU and on future builds) for the same price as the Evo, and, you can lap the 212+ to get that 1-3*C difference of the 212+ vs Evo.
There's also a ton of closed loop 120mm radiators going for really good deals now too, that'd I'd strongly recommend over the Hyper 212+/Evo as a budget cooler. I mean if you only got $20, get the Hyper 212+. If you go the money (and you do if your going for an evo...), then get a closed loop. It all depends on the price, but basically:
H60=Antec Kuhler 620 > H55=H50 w/smooth tubes (which is what the h55 is, sometimes its sold as updated h50) > H50 w/corrugated tubes > H70 (piece of shit cooler with 2 loud and shitty fans stock so it performs better at stock but apples for apples its worse and the 2 fans it comes with are so terrible you wouldnt want them free even, or just better to use as case fans).
You can find such coolers for around $39 new now, and you can find a used H50 for $20 on ebay right now, same price as a hyper 212+.
You can also find good deals on the NH-D14/K2/Assassin right now too, for around $50. If your getting an SB/IB, it's definitely worth getting to push a further overclock, and will really lengthen the life and overclock of your CPU. They'll give a good 20*C+ over the hyper 212 and 10-15+ over closed loops.
Do you really need 1TB of a HDD? I'd recommend with an sb/ib build you look into getting an ssd. if you need 1tb, you need 1tb, but you can get a really, really good deal on some 64-128GB ssds for around $100 or less right now. If you dont use more than 50gb of HDD (w7 64bit ultimate with a bunch of smaller programs, office, and HOTS will come to around 50gb, not sure if you play other games) then consider an SSD for the same price.
16gb of RAM is way too much. There's no reason to need more than 4GB unless you do video editing or flash. Shaving $40 off your build and another $20 somewhere else could get you an SSD for $60, new.
If your on budget and really have to get a Z77, I'd recommend the asrock Pro 3. But I really wouldn't recommend z77 over z68 these days. Buy a z68, and figure out the bios problem for $50-100 savings, basically. I'd say it's worth $50-100 to simply buy a $10 bios chip and swap it in. many companies, like NCIX, are selling their p67/z68s for really cheap these days.
 @Belial Most people here just want a computer to game on. Delidding is just silly to mention. Edit: especially when his original post says he wants to overclock lightly at best. You need to tailor your responses to the person you're responding to, and assume the average person is not a computer enthusiast who wants to get things just right - spending hours of their own time in the process. @Serpico The above was terrible advice. You can safely avoid it unless you overclock for fun. Here's some more reasonable advice: First, be clear whether you want to overclock or not. You mentioned an i5-3570. There are two kinds of these. One ends in a K, as in i5-3570 K. The other does not, a regular 'ole i5-3570. The second belongs in the class of locked Intel i5 processors - it cannot be overclocked. Presumably you meant the i5-3570 K, so you can overclock. We assume this because you chose a Z77 motherboard & an aftermarket cooler - Z77 being a slightly more expensive motherboard style built for overclocking. If you didn't want to overclock, you should probably get the i5-3470 (about the same performance, costs less) and a B75 or H77 motherboard (costs less than a Z77, can't overclock). As for the MSI z77A-G41 (possible typo there), it's not a very good overclocking board since it is very limited in how much voltage you can give the processor. So only moderate overclocks are possible. Then again, it is cheap and given that limitation, not necessarily a bad idea. If you were planning on overclocking more than just a little, you'd probably prefer a better motherboard like an Asrock Z77 Pro3 or a Gigabyte Z77-d3h or -ds3h (not the exact model #, but close enough). As for the Coolermaster 212 Evo, it's a fine choice for cooling on a budget. But currently I'd recommend the Xigmatek Gaia because it is on special & near the Evo in performance. Also potentially quieter. If you weren't planning on overclocking, you just use the stock fan that comes with the CPU. If the noise of that bugs you (unlikely), then you can get the Gaia. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233082&Tpk=xigmatek gaiaIf you're not sure if you want to overclock much, I'd recommend just getting a locked i5 & a cheaper mobo + sticking with the stock cooler. That should save you $70 or more you can use on GPU (i5-3470 should be about $40 less than an i5-3570k, $180 at us.ncix.com, mobo should be about $30 less, plus you safe on not getting a cooler if you choose not to). That should cover CPU, mobo, and cooler. As for the rest of the parts The hard drive looks fine. I suggest sticking with 1TB as its usually only $15-20 more compared to a 500gb version. You shouldn't need the fan unless you wanted the shiny LED for looks. Or maybe it's some super-quiet fan replacing a noisy case fan. I wouldn't know. On video card I usually recommend AMD for better cost-effectiveness, but the nvidia cards are supposed to be quieter, so if that's important to you, stick with what you have. Well I also wrote a wall of text, so between Belial & I your eyes are probably bleeding. But hopefully that helps. Re-reading your post I was a bit too noob-friendly. But whatever, you get the idea.
Thanks a bunch for all the help. I will probably dabble in OCing but nothing too crazy, I believe the locked cpus have at least the ability to OC with a turbo option on many boards, right? Btw I've had issues with having to RMA a mobo that was DOA so I'm a bit hypersensitive about getting a quality mobo. I'll be playing some rather intensive games like skyrim+tons of graphical mods/metro 2033 etc. I will probably stream a bit as well. I want the 16 gigs of ram simply because I will be multitasking a lot and will regularly have tons of tabs open, a stream and a game as well. I know it's overkill even for that as only photo editing etc is THAT demanding, but I can aford the overkill there and really would rather overkill on something cheap like ram rather than something that can get incredibly expensive like a GPU. I bought the fan because it's very cheap and is quiet, I have an extra spot for a 120mm fan that I haven't used in years because I'm lazy. I don't have a case panel window so any LEDs are useless (also obnoxious looking unless it's a very soft/dim light imo).
That cooler looks like a great suggestion as it's cheaper and I won't do heavy OCing. I would like an after market cooler just because I'm in a room that seems to heat up pretty easily since my TV is in it and I'm above the first floor. My room temp seems to always be higher than I expect. And I can simply afford it . If you have any more suggestions for good mobos around 100 dollars that are pretty tried and true I'd love to see them. Also I think I might go for a locked ivy bridge if I need a better mobo to go with a K version. The 3570 is the fastest locked i5 ivy bridge cpu then?
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You don't have to delid right away, you can delid it in 2 years. If you aren't going to take full advantage of the 3570k, which means overvolting it and pushing it to 4.5+ ghz, then you shouldn't buy it. You are better off getting a 2500k if you aren't going to delid, it'll run just the same as a 3570k when overclocked (since it'll overclock further).
The 3570k is an enthusiast chip, meant to be pushed for overclocking. it overclocks coolly and well, if you aren't going to push it, then there's no reason to buy it over the 2500k. Might even be better off with something like a non-K edition ivy bridge.
It is not terrible advice, it's the correct advice. There's no reason to buy a chip that's $40+ more expensive, and is going to perform exactly the same. You have to delid to make the ivy bridge perform better.
Even if you are not going to overclock heavily, if you need the CPU performance, Z77 + a K series processor will give you substantially more performance than a locked processor sitting inside a H77 motherboard. For a number of reasons:
1) H77 boards don't have multicore enhancement. Most decent Z77 boards seem to have it. 2) 4.4ghz - 4.6ghz is quite attainable and substantially more than the stock turbo clock. 3) Delidding does have risk to it because it is a hardware mod. I don't care how successful "enthusiasts" are or how easy the process is, one slip and you've fucked your CPU up. This happened to Puget Systems and I don't care what you say, they are not stupid. Its probably not required for moderate overclocks anyway and there is no need to be so heatphobic.
Anyone is welcome to delid their CPUs but unlike overclocking, its almost certainly a warranty voiding process. Anyone running sensible overclocks will probably not need it. If you think the i5 is only worthy for enthusiasts pushing high voltages, then maybe Teamliquid is not the right place for you.
If this was an enthusiast website, I'd be advocating antiglare removal mods but I don't because I'm not in a position to tell people that its a good idea to do delicate warranty voiding surgery that may damage/break expensive hardware. I think its utterly irresponsible to suggest such things to users, especially users who are not completely certain in what they are doing (said user probably wouldn't be in Teamliquid's Tech Support if they were confident).
People are welcome to give it a try in two years time. I suspect you won't see much more overclocking headroom from it and it won't make anything unplayable, playable.
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On December 27 2012 16:36 Womwomwom wrote:Show nested quote +You don't have to delid right away, you can delid it in 2 years. If you aren't going to take full advantage of the 3570k, which means overvolting it and pushing it to 4.5+ ghz, then you shouldn't buy it. You are better off getting a 2500k if you aren't going to delid, it'll run just the same as a 3570k when overclocked (since it'll overclock further).
The 3570k is an enthusiast chip, meant to be pushed for overclocking. it overclocks coolly and well, if you aren't going to push it, then there's no reason to buy it over the 2500k. Might even be better off with something like a non-K edition ivy bridge.
It is not terrible advice, it's the correct advice. There's no reason to buy a chip that's $40+ more expensive, and is going to perform exactly the same. You have to delid to make the ivy bridge perform better. Even if you are not going to overclock heavily, if you need the CPU performance, Z77 + a K series processor will give you substantially more performance than a locked processor sitting inside a H77 motherboard. For a number of reasons: 1) H77 boards don't have multicore enhancement. Most decent Z77 boards seem to have it. 2) 4.4ghz - 4.6ghz is quite attainable and substantially more than the stock turbo clock. 3) Delidding does have risk to it because it is a hardware mod. I don't care how successful "enthusiasts" are or how easy the process is, one slip and you've fucked your CPU up. This happened to Puget Systems and I don't care what you say, they are not stupid. Its probably not required for moderate overclocks anyway and there is no need to be so heatphobic. Anyone is welcome to delid their CPUs but unlike overclocking, its almost certainly a warranty voiding process. Anyone running sensible overclocks will probably not need it. If you think the i5 is only worthy for enthusiasts pushing high voltages, then maybe Teamliquid is not the right place for you. If this was an enthusiast website, I'd be advocating antiglare removal mods but I don't because I'm not in a position to tell people that its a good idea to do delicate warranty voiding surgery that may damage/break expensive hardware. I think its utterly irresponsible to suggest such things to users, especially users who are not completely certain in what they are doing (said user probably wouldn't be in Teamliquid's Tech Support if they were confident). People are welcome to give it a try in two years time. I suspect you won't see much more overclocking headroom from it and it won't make anything unplayable, playable.
I totally agree that overclocking is worth it, I think you know me well enough on that issue, but if you aren't going to get your hands dirty with your 3570k, you are better off getting a locked CPU for very, very cheap, and still having more than enough performance for any modern video game (especially sc2).
As in, you could spend $220+120 = $340 on an i5-3570k, OR you can buy an i3 $130 and whatever motherboard $30 any chipset = $160. The i3 will still perform very, very well. You could even buy a locked i5-2310 for $164 and it'd be MORE than powerful enough for any modern game, and a large chunk of cash.
If you aren't going to get your hands dirty and push the limits, then just buy sandy bridge 2500k. Ivy bridge simply is not any better than sandy unless you delid it or have sub-ambient cooling, otherwise sandy's ability to overclock further and stay cooler vs non-delidded IB makes it the better buy, and that's not even accounting for the $40 price difference.
And, on top of that, SB will work fine in a high level $40 p67/z68 motherboard. I mean, so will IB, but if you are scared to delid or do anything, then you are probably too scared to buy z68 used or a bios replacement chip, so realistically we could say your knocking another $60 off the motherboard, although frankly I think there's no reason to buy z77 if your going IB.
I have very, very rarely heard of anyone fucking up delidding. I think there's maybe a handful of reports on the entire internet, you have a lot more people 'breaking' things by spilling liquid on the motherboard or too much AS5 or bending pins.
You also don't need to do it right away, you can delid 2 years from now when you are more learned. It's perfectly fine if you want to buy an IB because your interested in delidding and higher overclocks, but dont feel ready for it yet, but get the IB because you want to have the option to. But if your straight set on not pushing the limits, on not getting your hands dirty, SB > IB.
The puget article you linked... I skimmed it, but Im gonna have to say they aren't doing anything meaningful lol. They aren't pushing high voltages. Ivy bridge only gets hot at higher volts, 1.3+. That's where you start having problems with IB. And that's where delidding becomes meaningful. If you aren't going to push past 1.25+ volts, then there's no reason to get ivy bridge over sandy bridge, sandy bridge will be just as good, and to boot will be significantly cheaper.
When people push realistic 24/7 overclocks of ~4.5-5ghz@~1.3+vcore, that's where delidding will give you, on average, 20*C drop in temps.
Also, the TIM isn't the problem... I don't think puget knew what to test for. It's been proven already that delidding doesn't do 20*C+ in temp drops because of the tim, the intel tim is actually fine, the problem is there's too much space between the IHS and die. When you rub off the IHS glue, you reduce the gap and that's what accounts for the large temp drops when delidding. You also don't see much when you delid on stock or idle temps, because at stock and idle it's just about ambient temps and that doesn't mean anything...
The huge gap between the die and ihs makes a terrible bottleneck for IB. Reduce the gap and ihs will transfer heat effectively, which allows a heatsink to transfer heat effectively.
If I've misread the article let me know, but from what I looked at, puget did not test a realistic 24/7 overclock on IB, which is 4.5ghz+/1.3vcore+, generally.
I'm not at all advocating delidding here. This is my point.
1. If you aren't willing to delid, buy Sandy Bridge i5-2500k instead of i5-3570k. They will perform exactly the same, on average,unless you delid and push high end overclocks on the IB.
2. Buy z68 motherboard instead of z77 for IB - after all, your savvy enough to delid you should be savvy enough to figure this out. You can find them used where the newest, IB compatible bios is already installed, or you can buy a replacement chip for $10 or get one free from the manufacturer with an email/send your board in, or have a local tech shop do it for you (like if you buy your mobo from your local microcenter). You basically pay about 1/4th of the cost of a Z77, for z77 you pay $100+ for a shitty quality motherboard that lacks features, for $50+ you can find a high quality z68 with all the same features.
A z77 at $100 won't have SLI, will have a bad VRM, won't run multiple 3.0 pci x16 lanes, while a $60 z68 will have quad SLI support, a high end digital vrm, et cetera. You won't have ivy bridge support out the box, but I think the $100+ savings definitely makes it worth the headache, there's a half dozen ways to solve the problem and for $100 saved I believe it's truly worth it.
I only say this because, given that you are buying your Ivy bridge to delid, you should be savvy enough to figure out how to put in a replacement chip, or buy a used motherboard. Many new z68's even come with the newest bios for ivy bridge support out of box, ie gen 3 boards.
z77 sucks, and ivy bridge is great but unless you delid it sucks too.
edit: correct me if im wrong but i dont think multicore enhancement matters if your overclocking, so it wont matter if you go 2500k/3570k and it doesnt matter if you go i3 (no turbo). it only makes a small impact on i5 locked cpu but the feature is not going to do anything when your maxing all 4 cores, only if your maxing out 1-3 of them. i certainly dont think its worth a price premium.
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The g45 is. Avoid the g43. You cannot overvolt on it and it's known to be bad at OC. It's only got 3 phases to the CPU and msi uses questionable parts for the VRM so I'd avoid it for both safety reasons and for overclocking.
There are better boards for the same price. Like the g45 for example. I think the pro 3 is the best sub $100 board right now for z77 though.
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On December 27 2012 12:46 Rumiko wrote:Show nested quote +On December 27 2012 11:09 Womwomwom wrote: The NZXT Vulcan can have clearance issues with big heatsinks so beware. I believe it has problems both with height (the case is less wide than you think it is) and width (top fans are too close to CPU socket).
Its a pretty uninspiring case in my opinion like a lot of NZXT's cases. Thin metal, awful quality paintjob, etc. A bit too easy to knock around. Unlike the Coolermaster case you mentioned, the handles are connected to the chassis with two tiny screws so I dunno if I would trust the handle. It's only good point is that it's fairly cheap.
Honestly speaking, I'd pick a Silverstone TJ08-E over it any day of the week. Or a whole slew of other mATX cases. Hmm I see. Tough call, really. My situation is that I travel back and forth between Norway and the UK several times a year due to school. I've split my monitors and I have one in each country, and I want to be able to bring my PC back home for Christmas/Easter/Summer holidays. The only reason to get a mATX would be if I'd be to bring it with me on the plane relatively easy. Else I might as well get a bigger case and spare the travel pain by just bringing safely packaged parts. The only other mATX case I've found with a handle is http://www.scan.co.uk/products/silverstone-sst-sg04b-fh-sugo-sff-micro-atx-w-handle-bar-black which doesnt look too bad I guess. Might just get the Vulcan and hope for the best, so far it seems like my tiny heatsink'll fit and everything /should/ be fine :3 Updated list (plus Gigabyte 7870 and case): http://www.komplett.no/k/shoplist.aspx?mode=receive&si=1173972&su=576DDBDB-01C2-4CD1-B3B7-11910C196D50Total: ~$950+300+case which still is fine.
if you want a really small case to cary around, you can go mini-ITX and get this : http://lb.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?adp=0&aid=42347&agid=1200&apop=0 much smaller, though it will cost more (like, 50 more for mobo, the case costs more, and to OC you need a very small heatsink and good ones that aren't bigger then 80mm are rare and costy, i only have CM and Zalman that come to my mind that have of those...)
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On December 27 2012 20:09 Rachnar wrote:Show nested quote +On December 27 2012 12:46 Rumiko wrote:On December 27 2012 11:09 Womwomwom wrote: The NZXT Vulcan can have clearance issues with big heatsinks so beware. I believe it has problems both with height (the case is less wide than you think it is) and width (top fans are too close to CPU socket).
Its a pretty uninspiring case in my opinion like a lot of NZXT's cases. Thin metal, awful quality paintjob, etc. A bit too easy to knock around. Unlike the Coolermaster case you mentioned, the handles are connected to the chassis with two tiny screws so I dunno if I would trust the handle. It's only good point is that it's fairly cheap.
Honestly speaking, I'd pick a Silverstone TJ08-E over it any day of the week. Or a whole slew of other mATX cases. Hmm I see. Tough call, really. My situation is that I travel back and forth between Norway and the UK several times a year due to school. I've split my monitors and I have one in each country, and I want to be able to bring my PC back home for Christmas/Easter/Summer holidays. The only reason to get a mATX would be if I'd be to bring it with me on the plane relatively easy. Else I might as well get a bigger case and spare the travel pain by just bringing safely packaged parts. The only other mATX case I've found with a handle is http://www.scan.co.uk/products/silverstone-sst-sg04b-fh-sugo-sff-micro-atx-w-handle-bar-black which doesnt look too bad I guess. Might just get the Vulcan and hope for the best, so far it seems like my tiny heatsink'll fit and everything /should/ be fine :3 Updated list (plus Gigabyte 7870 and case): http://www.komplett.no/k/shoplist.aspx?mode=receive&si=1173972&su=576DDBDB-01C2-4CD1-B3B7-11910C196D50Total: ~$950+300+case which still is fine. if you want a really small case to cary around, you can go mini-ITX and get this : http://lb.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?adp=0&aid=42347&agid=1200&apop=0much smaller, though it will cost more (like, 50 more for mobo, the case costs more, and to OC you need a very small heatsink and good ones that aren't bigger then 80mm are rare and costy, i only have CM and Zalman that come to my mind that have of those...)
Dunno why he's so obsessed with handles, you can just put it in a bag or something if you want handles. His CPU cooler is radiator based, so it doesn't matter. I still think the prodigy would be a good fit, it's cheap, new and has handles (kind of). Also no worrying with all the 120mm fan slots.
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Well the prodigy starts being not that small for an mini ATX case
and i linked the wrong model the Lian Li PC-Q11B doesn't accept long gpu (no more the 8 inches i think)
i was thinking about the LIAN LI PC-Q25B
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