EPTwhen he's talking about a silly amount of things at same time, it's like streaming yourself playing hwile having in the background some other crazy stuff or whatever
Computer Build Resource Thread - Page 1319
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Rachnar
France1526 Posts
when he's talking about a silly amount of things at same time, it's like streaming yourself playing hwile having in the background some other crazy stuff or whatever | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On December 25 2012 08:34 Sein wrote: ![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/INpph.png) Firefox has about 15 tabs open and there are also some random other programs like steam running in the background. I've got to stop doing that -_- Open your Task Manager performance tab. See what your usual RAM usage looks like. A lot of times those million idling programs don't suck down as much as people seem to expect. | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
On December 25 2012 08:27 Gumbi wrote: I just sold my old PALIT GTX 460 768MB, man that card OCed soooo well. Real-time FPS increases of over 20% in most every games, sick good. I am posting to ask for a quick run down of how to choose a mobo. I ask 'cos I am not really sure what differentiates a lot of them. Features I suppose (what they support?). What is the go-to mobo if I want to upgrade to an i5 3570k? I currently have a Phenom II x4 925. Will I still be able to use my copy of Windows when I install the new mobo? Thanks! Nothing, really. Lucid virtu sucks (Igp and gpu swithcing to save energy, doesn't work or work well at least), ssd caching, intel srt is useful actually but only matters if you can't fit everything major on an ssd OR your using a hdd still... most of the differences are native pci e 3 support (many older chipsets mobos include this, no reasonable gpu uses pci 3.0 unless using 3+ gpus anyways), usb 3.0 (again, most mobos have this on older chipset and isn't going to be noticeable except in external storage large file transfer, not like your mouse or keyboard is going to be better). Basically, any p67/z67/z77 motherboard is fine to overclock. However the p67/z77 might not have native ivy bridge support. This just means you need to flash a bios. Nowadays, sometimes you can find a p67/z68 sold with the bios already updated by the manufacturer (ie the motherboard was created way before ivy came out but when ivy came out the manu updated bios of all new mobos), sometimes you can flash a new bios with a no cpu plugged in or with an ivy plugged in, sometimes you can just find the board used and the previous owner flashed a more up to date bios. Its up to you, an asus sabertoothp67 is one of the highest quality mobos out there and you can find them for $70. If you can handle the headache or have a way to solve the problem or maybe the mobo already has the problem figured out, it might be worth getting for the money saving (a shitty z77 will be at least $99, magnitudes worse than the sabertooth). If you have a friend with a sb cpu, if you can ask your local tech store to help you or even will flash it for you as long as you buy it from them, if the motherboard has its own way around the problem like bios flashing with no cpu, then that can make things easy for you if you go p67/z68. There's nohing about any chipset that makes it worth buying over the older chipsets for most users and gamers and overclockers, and if you can figure out the problem of native IB support, your good. If you can't get help on that, its okay, just buy z77. But you won't find a decent z77 for under $100, but you can find very high quality p67/z68 for $70, motherboards much much better. Picking a motherboard is about the quality of the motherboard, than the chipset. There's many bad z77 boards, avoid 4C1 phases with no heatsinks or nikos mosfets, then many budget boards won't overvolt, or they have voltage limits (msi g41 and g43 being big examples of boards you just should completely avoid for overclocking). Just google the board and make sure it doesn't have any bad features, and make sure its got at least a 4+1 heatsinked power phase, preferably more. I think the asrock pro3 might be the best lower end board, maybe gigabyte d3sh or whatever. Personally id buy a p67 and try to figure out a way to make it work or a friend to help out, something like an asus sabertooth and then just buying a pentium and returning it (or not) just to flash would be much better quality. Just my opinion, I'm in the same boat as you. I wish I could tell you any z77 cheap board would work but a non heatsinked z77 4+1 phase is asking for trouble, a z77 without voltage control or locked at 1.28v is just a huge handicap and a LOT of the lower priced z77s have these problems. They are sold for $60-$99 after huge rebates or sales because they suck, you really need to spend at least $100 for a z77. | ||
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Alryk
United States2718 Posts
On December 25 2012 09:08 Belial88 wrote: Basically, any p67/z67/z77 motherboard is fine to overclock. However the p67/z77 might not have native ivy bridge support. This just means you need to flash a bios. Nowadays, sometimes you can find a p67/z68 sold with the bios already updated by the manufacturer (ie the motherboard was created way before ivy came out but when ivy came out the manu updated bios of all new mobos), sometimes you can flash a new bios with a no cpu plugged in or with an ivy plugged in, sometimes you can just find the board used and the previous owner flashed a more up to date bios. I think you meant to write Z68 in the places I bolded, to whoever he's addressing as well (Gumbi I think). Z67 doesn't exist afaik (Z68 does) and Z77 certainly has native ivy bridge support. Some P67/Z68 boards have been updated already, but if it hasn't; don't buy it. A lot of motherboards (not all, but most budget probably) cannot update bios without a CPU, and you wouldn't be buying a sandy bridge CPU. | ||
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Shauni
4077 Posts
On December 25 2012 08:55 JingleHell wrote: Open your Task Manager performance tab. See what your usual RAM usage looks like. A lot of times those million idling programs don't suck down as much as people seem to expect. Yeah, unless its like... fucking flash. My god. No but seriously, I often run something sick like 80 chrome tabs, games idle in background on a couple of x screens, media server, torrents, documents, videos in background and so on and 8gb is more than enough. However, the time I do hit the roof is when I'm drawing or editing photo/video, but then even 32gb doesn't feel like enough so eh... | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
On December 25 2012 09:46 Alryk wrote: I think you meant to write Z68 in the places I bolded, to whoever he's addressing as well (Gumbi I think). Z67 doesn't exist afaik (Z68 does) and Z77 certainly has native ivy bridge support. Some P67/Z68 boards have been updated already, but if it hasn't; don't buy it. A lot of motherboards (not all, but most budget probably) cannot update bios without a CPU, and you wouldn't be buying a sandy bridge CPU. yea i meant to write z68. P67, Pz68, z77, those are the options. P67/Z68 being the 2 chipsets that are older and dont have native IB support and require thorough research and a case by case solution to the problem (which may be difficult, may not even be a problem, depending on where you buy it, what motherboard you get, and what revision/generation it is), and z77 being out the box support. Out the box support is nice, by my point is is that your basically spending $40-200 more for a z77 chipset instead of a p67/z68 for a problem that might not even exist or may very well just be worth dealing with. Obviously a p67 asus sabertooth is not a $250 motherboard anymore, it's market value is much less, but your getting the performance of a $250 motherboard (i mean, comparable to a z77 sabertooth, or maybe z77 $150 board at least) for $70 and a small problem. Which, granted, might be a big headache if you aren't tech savvy and live in the middle of nowhere, but considering that you gotta pay about $120+ for a quality z77 chipset, and $100+ just for a board that's passable, I really think it's worth trying to figure out the problem if you can basically get a very high quality motherboard for $50-70. Maybe you can get an asrock pro 3 p67 for like $40, if you can find one. Just sucks to have to pay $100 for a rather sub-par motherboard for z77 chipset, although the asrock pro 3 has been rated highly for a sub-$100 motherboard. Some P67/Z68 boards have been updated already, but if it hasn't; don't buy it. A lot of motherboards (not all, but most budget probably) cannot update bios without a CPU, and you wouldn't be buying a sandy bridge CPU. Yea, most have been updated, but I mean really, even if it hasn't been updated, local stores or whom you buy it from will usually update it for you, and is it really that bad to buy a $60 pentium just to update the bios. You could be shady and just return it the next day, or just keep it, or just sell it on ebay/craigslist for $40. I mean I'd rather pay $70+60 for an asus sabertooth with an outdated bios + pentium to update it and swallow the $60 then pay $100 for a 4+1 power phase with a weak heatsink, no VID control and only motherboard offset overvoltage, single bios, no uefi, etc. No but seriously, I often run something sick like 80 chrome tabs, games idle in background on a couple of x screens, media server, torrents, documents, videos in background and so on and 8gb is more than enough. However, the time I do hit the roof is when I'm drawing or editing photo/video, but then even 32gb doesn't feel like enough so eh... Chrome actually takes up way more RAM than most browsers, the reason it's so fast is because it uses a ton of RAM, something most browsers dont do, but 80 tabs still shouldn't be too much ram relatively. But something like flash, video editing, yea in those cases, you'll need lots of RAM. Those aren't really considered general usage, those are more specialized applications in which case you kinda need more RAM and one of the few people out there that need more than simply 4GB of ram. | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
I'm currently bidding on this Intel 320 80GB SSD, if I can get it under $60, I'm going to buy it. If I can't, I'm going to buy an Intel X25-M G2 80GB for under $60. Generally I think the 320 goes for $65+, and the X25-M tends to go for $59 or less, so if the 320 is more expensive, I'll buy the X25-m. Just saying, if anyone thinks I should do something otherwise let me know, but I think the X25-M 80gb used is the best SSD under $60 I can get, and the 320M is better but only if you can find it at the exact same price as the X25-M. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
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Alryk
United States2718 Posts
On December 25 2012 10:03 Belial88 wrote: yea i meant to write z68. P67, Pz68, z77, those are the options. P67/Z68 being the 2 chipsets that are older and dont have native IB support and require thorough research and a case by case solution to the problem (which may be difficult, may not even be a problem, depending on where you buy it, what motherboard you get, and what revision/generation it is), and z77 being out the box support. Out the box support is nice, by my point is is that your basically spending $40-200 more for a z77 chipset instead of a p67/z68 for a problem that might not even exist or may very well just be worth dealing with. Obviously a p67 asus sabertooth is not a $250 motherboard anymore, it's market value is much less, but your getting the performance of a $250 motherboard (i mean, comparable to a z77 sabertooth, or maybe z77 $150 board at least) for $70 and a small problem. Which, granted, might be a big headache if you aren't tech savvy and live in the middle of nowhere, but considering that you gotta pay about $120+ for a quality z77 chipset, and $100+ just for a board that's passable, I really think it's worth trying to figure out the problem if you can basically get a very high quality motherboard for $50-70. Maybe you can get an asrock pro 3 p67 for like $40, if you can find one. Just sucks to have to pay $100 for a rather sub-par motherboard for z77 chipset, although the asrock pro 3 has been rated highly for a sub-$100 motherboard. Yea, most have been updated, but I mean really, even if it hasn't been updated, local stores or whom you buy it from will usually update it for you, and is it really that bad to buy a $60 pentium just to update the bios. You could be shady and just return it the next day, or just keep it, or just sell it on ebay/craigslist for $40. I mean I'd rather pay $70+60 for an asus sabertooth with an outdated bios + pentium to update it and swallow the $60 then pay $100 for a 4+1 power phase with a weak heatsink, no VID control and only motherboard offset overvoltage, single bios, no uefi, etc. Chrome actually takes up way more RAM than most browsers, the reason it's so fast is because it uses a ton of RAM, something most browsers dont do, but 80 tabs still shouldn't be too much ram relatively. But something like flash, video editing, yea in those cases, you'll need lots of RAM. Those aren't really considered general usage, those are more specialized applications in which case you kinda need more RAM and one of the few people out there that need more than simply 4GB of ram. Well you're spending 130$ and comparing it to 100$  Also, keep in mind that if you want USB3.0 on a Sandy Bridge support, don't you have to buy a header, for another 20-40$?Also: That GPU deal makes me jealous  | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
that is indeed a good gpu deal though. | ||
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YunhOLee
Canada2470 Posts
DVD Drive: Have One Mobo: HDD: Have One SSD: Case: Have One (Huge Lian-Li, forgot the name.. can probably find it if its really needed) RAM: GPU: Have One (GeForce 460SE) CPU: PSU: Heatsink: OS: Don't Need *********************** What is your budget? ~1000$ What is your resolution? 1920x1080 What are you using it for? gaming/poker What is your upgrade cycle? ~3years Do you plan on overclocking? No idea yet :/ Do you need an Operating System? no Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire? most likely yes, later on. Where are you buying your parts from? i'll be buying from ncix.com (canada one) after price matching ********************** i'll fill out the other parts myself, i just wanted you guys to get an idea of what kind of build i'm getting to tell me if i'm better with the i7 or i5 | ||
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Blisse
Canada3710 Posts
--- Just wondering about LG1155 motherboards in case I manage to snag a 3570K for $150 on Boxing Day. ASUS P8Z77-V LK ( $120 ) MSI Z77A-G45 ( $115 ) I'm looking for 6+ backplate USB ports, USB3, and SP/DIF Co-axial out (can be optional if there's a great motherboard under $75). The ASUS is useless, being so costly and without SP/DIF Co-axial, but the pricing on both are really lackluster. What are your opinions? Also looking for a DirectCU GTX670 on sale, but there's nothing under $300 unfortunately. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
There's not many good deals. Here are a few: Kingston HyperX Blu Black 2x4GB 1600MHz @ $29 http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=78421&promoid=1033 Samsung 840 250gb @ $159 http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=77211&promoid=1033 Noctua NH-D14 @ $50 http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=47090&promoid=1033 Antec Earthwatts 430 @ $40 http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX42368 XFX Core Edition 550 @ $50 ($40 after mail in rebate) http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=59615&promoid=1033 | ||
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RiceAgainst
United States1849 Posts
Games I plan to play are SWTOR, SC2, Skyrim on 1080p. Streaming optional (not needed). I usually have Skype, Steam, Chrome open but they usually don't eat too much of my resources. $150 CPU + $100 GPU CPU i5 3470 ($150) http://www.microcenter.com/product/400664/Core_i5_3470_32GHz_LGA_1155_Boxed_Processor PNY GTX 550 Ti $110 ($90 Rebate); same on Newegg http://www.microcenter.com/product/359509/VCGGTX550TXPB_NVIDIA_GeForce_GTX_550_Ti_1024MB_GDDR5_PCIe_20_x16_Video_Card or http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814133383 EVGA GTX 650 $120 ($100 Rebate); $80 (Newegg) http://www.microcenter.com/product/400524/01G-P4-2650-KR_NVIDIA_GeForce_GTX_650_1024MB_GDDR5_PCIe_Video_Card or http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130827 HD7770: Gigabyte is $100 (rebate); HIS is $110 (rebate) http://www.microcenter.com/product/387845/H777F1G2M_iCooler_Radeon_HD_7770_1024MB_GDDR5_PCIe_30_x16_Video_Card http://www.microcenter.com/product/396970/GV-R777OC-1GDR2_AMD_Radeon_HD_7770_GHz_Edition_1024MB_GDDR5_PCIe_30_x16_Video_Card Now, If I want to spend a tad bit more on the GPU (~$150), I could always get a $100 CPU and OC it (I'm new at OCing, but I heard these ones are easy to OC that it's boring). $100 CPU + $150 GPU CPU: Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition ($90) http://www.microcenter.com/product/325874/Phenom_II_X4_965_Black_Edition_34GHz_Boxed_Processor HD7850 XFX: $150 (rebate), Sapphire $170 (Rebate + Shipping) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150656 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202004 GTX 560 $150 (rebate) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121446 GTX 650 Ti $150 (rebate) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130840 Some of deals might end soon though, and I might not be able to purchase from Microcenter since I might not drive 30 minutes to an hour for a few extra bucks. | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On December 25 2012 12:39 Belial88 wrote: depends on the motherboard, but most sb motherboards will support usb 3.0. worst case scenario, you buy a header, but really, usb 3.0 is only useful for things like external hard drives and transferring large files. if you dont use external hard drives or other large storage devices then it isn't really necessary. that is indeed a good gpu deal though. Weird as it may be to see us agree on something, he's almost dead on the money, although I'd take it a step further and say that if the speed is really that important for your external stuff, get something networked, more internals, or eSATA. USB 3 is pretty much pure gimmick for 99% of users. The most plausible place for it would be if you frequently planned to be booting a live USB install of Linux or something similar. | ||
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YunhOLee
Canada2470 Posts
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
On December 25 2012 13:10 RiceAgainst wrote:+ Show Spoiler + So, it seems like the APU option really isn't the best. So, I've been looking through some GPU sales and I've found a couple, but I need help determining which is the best value. I have about $250 to spend on just the CPU and GPU so if one GPU is a good deal but will be held back by a cheaper CPU, then of course I wouldn't want it. Games I plan to play are SWTOR, SC2, Skyrim on 1080p. Streaming optional (not needed). I usually have Skype, Steam, Chrome open but they usually don't eat too much of my resources. $150 CPU + $100 GPU CPU i5 3470 ($150) http://www.microcenter.com/product/400664/Core_i5_3470_32GHz_LGA_1155_Boxed_Processor PNY GTX 550 Ti $110 ($90 Rebate); same on Newegg http://www.microcenter.com/product/359509/VCGGTX550TXPB_NVIDIA_GeForce_GTX_550_Ti_1024MB_GDDR5_PCIe_20_x16_Video_Card or http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814133383 EVGA GTX 650 $120 ($100 Rebate); $80 (Newegg) http://www.microcenter.com/product/400524/01G-P4-2650-KR_NVIDIA_GeForce_GTX_650_1024MB_GDDR5_PCIe_Video_Card or http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130827 HD7770: Gigabyte is $100 (rebate); HIS is $110 (rebate) http://www.microcenter.com/product/387845/H777F1G2M_iCooler_Radeon_HD_7770_1024MB_GDDR5_PCIe_30_x16_Video_Card http://www.microcenter.com/product/396970/GV-R777OC-1GDR2_AMD_Radeon_HD_7770_GHz_Edition_1024MB_GDDR5_PCIe_30_x16_Video_Card Now, If I want to spend a tad bit more on the GPU (~$150), I could always get a $100 CPU and OC it (I'm new at OCing, but I heard these ones are easy to OC that it's boring). $100 CPU + $150 GPU CPU: Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition ($90) http://www.microcenter.com/product/325874/Phenom_II_X4_965_Black_Edition_34GHz_Boxed_Processor HD7850 XFX: $150 (rebate), Sapphire $170 (Rebate + Shipping) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150656 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202004 GTX 560 $150 (rebate) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121446 GTX 650 Ti $150 (rebate) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130840 Some of deals might end soon though, and I might not be able to purchase from Microcenter since I might not drive 30 minutes to an hour for a few extra bucks. Aren't you forgetting a motherboard..? I'm a little confused by your GPU choices since you're picking a 2GB variant of a GTX 650 Ti but 1GB variants of 7850s? There's a 1GB variant of the GTX 650 Ti for $140: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130838 If you want to deal with rebates, there's one for $125: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127710 Intel overclocking is easy since all you do is increase a multiplier. AMD Phenom II overclocking is the traditional base clock overclocking which is slightly harder. On December 25 2012 13:13 YunhOLee wrote: alright thanks guys for the quick replies, i forgot to ask tho, i should change my PSU after using it for 4years right? or there's no risk if it's still working fine? it's a corsair hx620 No, you don't need to change your PSU since the Corsair HX620 is an quality unit and 620w is overkill for such a configuration. | ||
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RiceAgainst
United States1849 Posts
On December 25 2012 13:26 skyR wrote: Aren't you forgetting a motherboard..? I'm a little confused by your GPU choices since you're picking a 2GB variant of a GTX 650 Ti but 1GB variants of 7850s? There's a 1GB variant of the GTX 650 Ti for $140: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130838 If you want to deal with rebates, there's one for $125: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127710 Intel overclocking is easy since all you do is increase a multiplier. AMD Phenom II overclocking is the traditional base clock overclocking which is slightly harder. Oh yeah, I need to get a MOBO that'll support whatever two I pick. As for the CPU, the 3470 is just a regular one (not the K), so I can't change the multiplier on that, right? I don't need 2GB since I'm going 1 monitor only, so... I think I'll get the $125 GTX 650 Ti you recommended. Can you help me pick out the CPU and MOBO, given $175-$200 left? | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
Okay nvm the $40 additional bundle savings might not be valid with a 2500k but I guess you can try and haggle with them. | ||
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Alryk
United States2718 Posts
On December 25 2012 13:10 JingleHell wrote: Weird as it may be to see us agree on something, he's almost dead on the money, although I'd take it a step further and say that if the speed is really that important for your external stuff, get something networked, more internals, or eSATA. USB 3 is pretty much pure gimmick for 99% of users. The most plausible place for it would be if you frequently planned to be booting a live USB install of Linux or something similar. Yeah. I mean I only have a flash drive that gets used for some things (transfer big files reasonably frequently) but I figured it was worth mentioning. | ||
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