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![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/9X1g9.jpg)
I was wondering if anyone knew of a keyboard that I'd be able to use without driving myself insane.
I've been looking for a keyboard for the last 4+ years in anticipation of the day my last Logitech UltraX (pictured above) gets too worn out to use. I first started using one in 2006 and quickly realized I needed to buy three spares. I'm seriously glad I did, though. Apparently since Logitech realized I'd found hardware I liked, they discontinued the model. I've since given one of my spares to my brother, swapped out my original one in 2009 to start using another spare, and brought my last spare to work in 2010 to use at work.
The one I'm using at home is starting to show some serious signs of age (entire patches of silver paint fading away to reveal the black plastic underneath and multiple keycaps' lettering disappearing). It's still usable, but it's clearly time to find a replacement. One small problem, though. By my own admission, I'm horrendously picky when it comes to keyboards and I've gotten sufficiently annoyed enough trying out a couple different keyboards to finally hope that someone might already have an answer for me. Hey, at least I can lay out specific criteria I'm looking for instead of 'something good for gaming.'
Specific models already ruled out:- Razer Lycosa -- keys are far too wobbly, rubberized keys are a terrible idea as well
- Das Keyboard Silent -- keyboard too tall, too much key travel to bottom out, not resistance... very unfortunate since it has a perfect layout (use this as a reference if my layout criteria ends up being confusing)
- Ace KUA100 -- too much flex
- SIIG Low Profile -- too much flex
- Logitech K120 -- too much flex, mushy membrane switches
- Logitech Ultra-thin Illuminated -- double-row delete key, omitted AppsKey
- Logitech K800 -- wireless, omitted AppsKey
- Fellowes Microban Slimline -- too much flex
- Various Microsoft keyboards -- all mushy membrane switches and whoever invented curved rows without going all-out ergonomic deserves a painful death
Essential criteria:- Absolutely must be wired USB
- Must not have "macro" keys
- Not chiclet keys (not enough tactile feedback with flat key surface)
- Not mechanical keys (buckling spring, Cherry, or otherwise; they're all unfortunately too tall and the elitist attitude surrounding people insisting on them gets old)
- Scissor switch mechanism (think of circa 2004-2006 laptop keyboards)
- Single-row enter key
- Both Windows keys must be present (left and right)
- Context menu key (typically between Win and Ctrl on right side of keyboard) must be present
- Must have numeric pad
- Unmodified home key cluster (no double-row Delete, must have Insert key)
- Unmodified PrintScreen/Scroll Lock/Pause row
- Double-width (standard) Backspace key
- Maximum height under 1"/25mm (stand a quarter on its edge -- it must be thinner than that)
- Cannot flex significantly on keypresses
Preferable, but I can live without if it fits pretty much everything else:- No 'Function' modifier key -- must be between Ctrl and Win in lower left otherwise
- Standard F1-F12 spacings between F4/F5 and F8/F9
- Multimedia keys -- play/pause, stop, forward, back are nice to have
- No wrist rest or removable wrist rest
Niceties, but not game-breaking whatsoever:- Backlight -- nothing fancy, with physical on/off switch if needed
- Anti-ghosting -- it's this far down on the list because I've honestly never run into ghosting aside from contorting my hands just to try to get it to trigger. Still, nice to know it's there
- Metal internal frame -- unlikely for a keyboard to resist flexing without, but if they can do it with plastic, you won't see me complain
This is very, very likely the most neurotic list of requirements for a keyboard, but after trying several different keyboards for 2-4 weeks, I've come to realize exactly how specific my keyboard preferences are. I used the Das for about 3 weeks and even at the end, I couldn't pass 105 WPM (as a synthetic benchmark for how comfortable I am with a specific board). After using the Razer Lycosa for two weeks, I managed 120, but the wobbly keys never really sat well with me. As a reference point, even on a bad day, I'm pushing 140+ with the UltraX.
I've spent dozens of hours researching keyboards by now, and if anyone's already found something that fits what I need, I'd be seriously grateful.
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tl;dr: I need a full-size keyboard with an un-fucked-with layout, moderate- to no-frills, and must have laptop keys. Halp?
  
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Flat keys? Non-mechanical? Seriously...
Zowie Celeritas. It has mechanical keys and is non-flat, yet its a very good mechanical and not too noisy keyboard with a complete standard layout, if you don't love that I don't think any keyboard will do for you. Your requirements are all good if you would not put all of them together. I don't think a keyboard you want exists.
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On February 28 2012 19:18 Type|NarutO wrote:
Your requirements are all good if you would not put all of them together. I don't think a keyboard you want exists.
It DOES, though -- my current board satisfies literally every one of those essential conditions.
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On February 28 2012 19:25 SigmaoctanusIV wrote:
Then buy that same keyboard again... Selling it on Amazon really cheap.
Looks like I forgot to list USB as a requirement 
The price also isn't cheap, with the original price was $14.99 for each. The few that I can find still being sold are like this one; they're listed at far higher than their original price.
That aside, even if I get the same keyboard again, I'm not exactly looking forward to just delaying the realization that I still haven't found a replacement model to go with.
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Why the hell would anybody want to buy a membrane keyboard. Come on.
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Scissor reinforced membrane keys are actually less wobbly than mechanical keys.
That, and typical key travel for membrane is 5mm or more, key travel for mechanical is around 4mm, and key travel for scissor is typically 3mm or less.
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Dell SK8115 look it up.
Edit: If you want one thats even shorter, grab the newer Dell models, I'll look up the model number next time if I remember but those are even shorter, and suit your needs.
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Not trying to be funny in the least bit by saying this, but good luck finding one. If its not mechanical or membrane, you will have a hard time finding one for a decent price that is actually worth while. Also, I've never seen a scissor-switch keyboard with backlights...
You really would've been better off just hunting google for keyboards like that as most people here are gamers, and most gamers consider thin keyboards or basically anything that isnt mechanical or a membrane similar to the g15 garbage as they are just really unreliable. All most all typers I know use mechanical keyboards and the one's that dont use VERY expensive membrane keyboards.
EDIT: and to the post above mine, im using that keyboard right now until I get a mechanical one ^.^
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You do realize if you buy another keyboard you will spend a lot more than the listed 30$ ? :/ If you don't want the same again -> read my first comment, the keyboard you wish does not exist, at least none I would know.
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On February 28 2012 19:55 Zlasher wrote:
Dell SK8115 look it up.
+ Show Spoiler +
- Membrane switches
- Relocated PrintScreen cluster
Nope 
On February 28 2012 19:56 AeroEffect wrote:
Not trying to be funny in the least bit by saying this, but good luck finding one. If its not mechanical or membrane, you will have a hard time finding one for a decent price that is actually worth while. Also, I've never seen a scissor-switch keyboard with backlights...
Well, I know it's difficult to find a proper replacement or I wouldn't have spent the last four years trying :X
Aside from that, backlighting was intially done on scissor switch keyboards -- Zippy keyboards come to mind real fast. All the chiclet keyboards coming out on laptops lately are scissor switch as well.
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i would try to help, but apparently im a needledick hipster for loving how my mechanical sounds. sorry.
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I really hope you are not as picky with other stuff in life.
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You would probably be best off customizing your own keyboard using linear mechanical switches with modified depth.
Your comment regarding mechanical switches is very rude, politically incorrect, and does nothing but discourage people who know about keyboards from helping you.
I second NarutO here, you'd be a pretty impossible person to deal with if you were this way with other aspects of life...
oh yea, and you should just get a Das Model S, it's a great keyboard, has the layout you want, and if you give it some time you'll realize that MX browns are better for gaming than any scissor switch, and the height of the keyboard itself can be compensated by a palm rest.
Being this picky about something generally means you've spent too much time reading/thinking, and too little actually trying things out.
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Basically you're saying "I want a bad run-in-the-mill gaming keyboard". It's just really hard to give serious suggestions when you poop all over what makes keyboards good (being mechanical). I mean... if you want those rubber-shit keyboards, does it really matter? There's a million of them, just find one with a setup of keys you like and buy it, they are either cheap enough to buy a new one if you dislike it/it breaks, or expensive and totaly not worth it since they aren't mechanical anyway.
I would recommend the Steelseries G6v2... but since it's actually a good keyboard, you'd probably hate it.
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Get a Model M. Best keyboards ever made.
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On February 28 2012 20:19 CatNzHat wrote:
oh yea, and you should just get a Das Model S, it's a great keyboard, has the layout you want, and if you give it some time you'll realize that MX browns are better for gaming than any scissor switch, and the height of the keyboard itself can be compensated by a palm rest.
Being this picky about something generally means you've spent too much time reading/thinking, and too little actually trying things out.
The Das Model S is the 'Silent' Das model I've already mentioned (it's actually on a shelf a couple feet behind me right now, in fact). In an ideal world where I can carve out a half-inch deep slot in my desk to drop the keyboard into, and then replace all the switches with 90g actuation, 1.5-2mm travel mechanical keys, I could probably live with it, but I haven't quite been able to find anyone selling anything other than commodity Cherry Red/Blue/Black/Brown switches that are usually 40-60g actuation and 4mm travel.
With regard to the impression that I hadn't tried out keyboards, here's just a few of them I gave a serious tryout to:
Razer Lycosa: Bought one and used it for 2 weeks
Das Model S: Bought one and used it for 3 weeks. Gave it a second 1.5 week shot with a neoprene/gel wrist rest and still couldn't get used to it.
SIIG Low Profile: Bought one for work and used it for 2 weeks and realized how aggravating keyboard flex is on most plastic fantastic keyboards.
Ace KUA100: Loaned from coworker for a week and the flex felt just like the SIIG.
Logitech K120: Standard low-cost rubber dome fare; plenty of them at work. Used one for a month despite it being far too mushy.
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Filco Majestouch from keyboardco.com. Best Keyboard EVER!
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On February 28 2012 20:23 Tobberoth wrote:
Basically you're saying "I want a bad run-in-the-mill gaming keyboard". It's just really hard to give serious suggestions when you poop all over what makes keyboards good (being mechanical). I mean... if you want those rubber-shit keyboards, does it really matter? There's a million of them, just find one with a setup of keys you like and buy it, they are either cheap enough to buy a new one if you dislike it/it breaks, or expensive and totaly not worth it since they aren't mechanical anyway.
I would recommend the Steelseries G6v2... but since it's actually a good keyboard, you'd probably hate it.
Don't get it, it's not that good, if you get a mechanical you should go all out and get a really good quality one.
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On February 28 2012 21:25 Recognizable wrote:Show nested quote +On February 28 2012 20:23 Tobberoth wrote:
Basically you're saying "I want a bad run-in-the-mill gaming keyboard". It's just really hard to give serious suggestions when you poop all over what makes keyboards good (being mechanical). I mean... if you want those rubber-shit keyboards, does it really matter? There's a million of them, just find one with a setup of keys you like and buy it, they are either cheap enough to buy a new one if you dislike it/it breaks, or expensive and totaly not worth it since they aren't mechanical anyway.
I would recommend the Steelseries G6v2... but since it's actually a good keyboard, you'd probably hate it. Don't get it, it's not that good, if you get a mechanical you should go all out and get a really good quality one.
Yeah but he doesn't want mechanical anyways so it doesn't really matter.
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United States33327 Posts
On February 28 2012 20:23 Tobberoth wrote:
Basically you're saying "I want a bad run-in-the-mill gaming keyboard". It's just really hard to give serious suggestions when you poop all over what makes keyboards good (being mechanical). I mean... if you want those rubber-shit keyboards, does it really matter? There's a million of them, just find one with a setup of keys you like and buy it, they are either cheap enough to buy a new one if you dislike it/it breaks, or expensive and totaly not worth it since they aren't mechanical anyway.
I would recommend the Steelseries G6v2... but since it's actually a good keyboard, you'd probably hate it.
you're not helping, don't be a dick on top of that
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Get the same keyboard and a usb adapter for the plug?
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On February 28 2012 21:25 Recognizable wrote:Show nested quote +On February 28 2012 20:23 Tobberoth wrote:
Basically you're saying "I want a bad run-in-the-mill gaming keyboard". It's just really hard to give serious suggestions when you poop all over what makes keyboards good (being mechanical). I mean... if you want those rubber-shit keyboards, does it really matter? There's a million of them, just find one with a setup of keys you like and buy it, they are either cheap enough to buy a new one if you dislike it/it breaks, or expensive and totaly not worth it since they aren't mechanical anyway.
I would recommend the Steelseries G6v2... but since it's actually a good keyboard, you'd probably hate it. Don't get it, it's not that good, if you get a mechanical you should go all out and get a really good quality one.
G6v2 is ridiculously cheap compared to most mechanical keyboards, yet has a really high standard (full nkro unlike the much more expensive Blackwidow for example). I'd recommend it to anyone who hasn't already used a ridiculously expensive one like a majestouch for a long time.
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My suggestion would be to buy it from Amazon, it's still available.
P.S: Don't be so picky, man. Reading you makes me remember OCD diagnostic criteria.
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Yes you are being way too picky. It's all very well using the same keyboard model for years and becoming accustomed to every single tiny little detail about it, but not only are you limiting yourself to that specific keyboard, but the truth is that if you gave yourself a few weeks with a new one I'm sure you could get used to, for example, a full sized Enter key.
I'm using a standard Microsoft wired keyboard that you can buy from any computer shop anywhere, and considering the real issues at hand, you should really consider just buying it and putting up with it until you get used to it.
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GRAND OLD AMERICA16375 Posts
Get a Topre.
![[image loading]](http://media.gdgt.com/img/product/18/eer/topre-realforce-103u-tx9-640.jpg)
Look at that Beauty!
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why on gods green earth would you need BOTH windows keys?
and why do you hate on mechanical keyboards? they're heavenly compared to membrane ones
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T.O.P.
Hong Kong4685 Posts
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+ Show Spoiler [For the mechanical religionists] +I've had a Filco with Browns for 18 months, and my UltraX was quieter, more tactile and let me type faster, at a fiteenth of the price if you count the former's S&H costs. Also, many seasoned geekhackers prefer Topre over mechanicals. Please shut up and read the OP now.
Consider the Illuminated (double-row Delete but otherwise good) or something else from here.
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On February 29 2012 00:23 T.O.P. wrote:Can't believe every commenter is posting shit about mechanical keyboard when the op posted he doesn't want a mechanical keyboard. http://www.logitech.com/en-us/keyboards/keyboard/devices/illuminated-keyboardI considered getting this keyboard before getting a mechanical. Too bad it's $80. BTW, if anyone can make a mechanical with 1.5-2.0mm travel distance. I'll be the first to buy.
Personally I find travel distance to be important for feeling. If the travel distance is too short, it feels like using an iphone on-screen keyboard, it gets harder to get a feel for exactly where the buttons are as you type quickly and aren't looking at the keyboard. If the keys are flat, it's many times worse. That said, too long distance can of course slow you down as well.
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Take a look at the Acer-0833. It violates a couple of your rules (No spacing for the F-keys, and it does have a function key, and only the left Windows key, though you *can* rebind the function key to be another Windows key if you want)
http://storeexpress.ecrater.com/p/12251516/acer-keyboard-ku-0833
I love the shit out of this keyboard. I made the switch to mechanical, and even still occasionally go back to it because it just eels so nice/responsive.
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I know someone that has similar restrictions as you and he uses a mac keyboard.
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MB110LL/B?fnode=MTY1NDA1Mg
I get that might hesitate over this because youre flaming on the hipsterness of mech keyboards, and mac is mac, but this keyboard kind of has everything that you're looking for.
Absolutely must be wired USB
Must not have "macro" keys
Not chiclet keys (not enough tactile feedback with flat key surface)
Not mechanical keys (buckling spring, Cherry, or otherwise; they're all unfortunately too tall and the elitist attitude surrounding people insisting on them gets old)
Scissor switch mechanism (think of circa 2004-2006 laptop keyboards)
Single-row enter key
Both Windows keys must be present (left and right)
Context menu key (typically between Win and Ctrl on right side of keyboard) must be present
Must have numeric pad
Unmodified home key cluster (no double-row Delete, must have Insert key)
Unmodified PrintScreen/Scroll Lock/Pause row
Double-width (standard) Backspace key
Maximum height under 1"/25mm (stand a quarter on its edge -- it must be thinner than that)
Cannot flex significantly on keypresses
1-check
2-check
3-check
4-check
5-check (seriously, they do)
6-check
7-yep
8-nope
9-yep
10- yep (f keys can be modified depending on your software)
11-yep
12-check
13-jag
so 12/13 is pretty much as good as you're going to get, really. Here is a review of this keyboard, as set next to some keyboards, such as the das.
http://techreport.com/articles.x/17687
I went through this whole rigmaroll because you seem to be very quick to dismiss all ideas that dont fit exactly in your niche :/ That being said, I feel that this will be the best fit for you. I personally don't have one, but I do know someone that uses it and loves it for its flatness and stability of keys. However, that being said, it is super duper hard to find a keyboard that fits into your specific niche.
http://ca.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3588#kf
That's another suggestion, but it might be a bit too outside of what you want.
GL with this, hope i've helped.
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On February 28 2012 22:54 Tobberoth wrote:Show nested quote +On February 28 2012 21:25 Recognizable wrote:On February 28 2012 20:23 Tobberoth wrote:
Basically you're saying "I want a bad run-in-the-mill gaming keyboard". It's just really hard to give serious suggestions when you poop all over what makes keyboards good (being mechanical). I mean... if you want those rubber-shit keyboards, does it really matter? There's a million of them, just find one with a setup of keys you like and buy it, they are either cheap enough to buy a new one if you dislike it/it breaks, or expensive and totaly not worth it since they aren't mechanical anyway.
I would recommend the Steelseries G6v2... but since it's actually a good keyboard, you'd probably hate it. Don't get it, it's not that good, if you get a mechanical you should go all out and get a really good quality one. G6v2 is ridiculously cheap compared to most mechanical keyboards, yet has a really high standard (full nkro unlike the much more expensive Blackwidow for example). I'd recommend it to anyone who hasn't already used a ridiculously expensive one like a majestouch for a long time.
I have one myself and am extremely dissapointed. The first one I got, some of keys didn't work, then I got a replacement with faulty keys. I also don't like black switches :/ but that's just personal preference. However, it's still twice as good as a regular keyboard. I won't get anything else besides a mechanical keyboard in my life, the difference is like night and day.
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You must get mechanical. I looove my razer blackwidow. Only true gamers get mechanicals. trololol
Just kidding 
I highly recommend this one as far as performance and cost is concerned but unfortunately it has macro keys. However, the macro keys are actually different and very low, so you will not find them a hinderence. I happily used this for 2 years and it is still totally fine. Very sturdy keyboard. Also it is fully backlit:
Microsoft Sidewinder X4
![[image loading]](http://www.microsoft.com/hardware/_base_v1/products/sidewinder-x4-keyboard/gm_swx4_large.jpg)
I think it fits every single criteria apart from the macro keys and the optional wrist rest. But to be honest with you, I also didnt like wrist rests until I used this keyboard.
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Good luck on your quest to find a horrible piece of shit :D..
Seriously though I cant think of a single board that fits all of those extensive requirements, maybe lower the bar?
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On February 29 2012 00:23 T.O.P. wrote:Can't believe every commenter is posting shit about mechanical keyboard when the op posted he doesn't want a mechanical keyboard. http://www.logitech.com/en-us/keyboards/keyboard/devices/illuminated-keyboardI considered getting this keyboard before getting a mechanical. Too bad it's $80. BTW, if anyone can make a mechanical with 1.5-2.0mm travel distance. I'll be the first to buy.
I've been using this keyboard for a long time now... the double row delete is an annoyance now and then (otherwise it does seem close to what you're looking for imo).
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On February 29 2012 02:24 Psychobabas wrote:You must get mechanical. I looove my razer blackwidow. Only true gamers get mechanicals. trololol Just kidding I highly recommend this one as far as performance and cost is concerned but unfortunately it has macro keys. However, the macro keys are actually different and very low, so you will not find them a hinderence. I happily used this for 2 years and it is still totally fine. Very sturdy keyboard. Also it is fully backlit: Microsoft Sidewinder X4 I think it fits every single criteria apart from the macro keys and the optional wrist rest. But to be honest with you, I also didnt like wrist rests until I used this keyboard.
I don't have experience with the keyboard, but I have the microsoft sidewinder mouse. I'm on my 6th year with it and it's still going strong, no signs of breaking down whatsoever. So I can vouch for the sturdyness.
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Don't be turned off by elitist attitudes towards Mechanical keyboards.
Mech boards have been a Godsend for me, I have wrist issues from something that happened to me in the past and mechanical boards are the only ones I've found I can type on for hours without feeling soreness.
They do take some getting used to though.
The Razer Blackwidow only has 5 macro keys on the side, out of way and sight so they're not unbearable if you hate macro keys.
If you're like me and you type pretty hard then keyboards get worn away pretty damn fast.
Mechanical keyboards have been the only boards I can abuse by my typing style to survive over a year.
Honestly after getting used to type on a mech board, I couldn't ever go back to a regular rubber dome board.
If you have a bit of money try a board with opaque switches. Pretty pricey but by far the best Switches in the world. The keyboards that use them are a bit pricy and hard to find though.
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If you have a bit of money try a board with opaque switches. Pretty pricey but by far the best Switches in the world. The keyboards that use them are a bit pricy and hard to find though.[/QUOTE]
You mean topre right... In terms of the best switch in the world it all comes down to opinion, there is no clear winner in terms of best switch.
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On February 29 2012 03:26 NoctemSC wrote:
Honestly after getting used to type on a mech board, I couldn't ever go back to a regular rubber dome board.
The OP wants/uses scissors, not rubber domes.
Also, Topres are not mechanical, they are high-quality rubber domes.
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GRAND OLD AMERICA16375 Posts
On February 29 2012 03:51 Potling wrote:Show nested quote +On February 29 2012 03:26 NoctemSC wrote:
Honestly after getting used to type on a mech board, I couldn't ever go back to a regular rubber dome board.
The OP wants/uses scissors, not rubber domes. Also, Topres are not mechanical, they are high-quality rubber domes.
Super high quality rubber domes. I got my topre as a christmas gift 2 years ago and never looked back.
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First of all, thanks for all the suggestions.
Re: pickiness -- keep in mind that like everyone else, I started out with just general 'i want maybe this this and this', but over four years of trial and error I've gotten the chance to refine those general guidelines into specific criteria.
Re: why two windows keys -- I use quite a few of the shortcut keys that use the Windows key as a modifier, and on top of that I have quite a large set of AutoHotkey scripts that run using specifically LWin and RWin as modifier keys.
Re: the Logitech Illuminated -- I've spoken to someone who used to work at Logitech to see if they have plans on making a wired or wired-optional (like the G700 with data over cable if present) version of the K800, which I'd probably fall back on if all my keyboards decided to spontaneously die. The K800 is pretty much exactly the same as a wireless Illuminated, but with the correct Home key cluster complete with Insert key.
Re: mechanical with 2mm travel before bottoming out -- Cherry ML switches bottom out at 2mm, but they're only on tiny slim form factor keyboards -- Cherry G84 series comes to mind
Re: topres -- the mechanism feels fine, but the keyboards are still too tall
@Kasha_Not_Kesha -- Thanks for the suggestion. I might pick one up just to get a good feel for it for a couple weeks. $10ish is a drop in the bucket in the face of what I've already spent on keyboards.
@DYEAlabaster -- There's plenty of non-Mac keyboards with that layout (a SIIG model and an iRocks model come to mind), but the flat key surface hurts typing accuracy so much that I can't stick with those. The scissor switches and shallow key travel are pretty much exactly what I'm looking for in that class of boards, but not at the cost of typing accuracy.
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More background about why I'm so adamant about no mechanical or standard rubber dome is that I always type to fully bottom out every key. That difference in going from 2mm to bottom to 4mm on mechanicals and rubber domes is far more tiring. I know a lot of people swear by typing faster on mechanicals, and it's likely true for most people, but having spent almost 20 years typing on high resistance flat boards, the behavior your brain comes to expect differs far too much from what mechanical and standard domes have to offer.
Mechanicals typically have about 1.5-2mm of 'give' -- where the key just sinks in with little to no resistance since that's where the spring isn't compressed at all, and pretty much just holds the weight of the keycap up. Most Cherry MX switches actuate around 2-3mm but bottom out at 4.
Typical rubber domes have a front-loaded actuation where there's about .5mm of 'give' from rubber softness, but once you apply the full force, it collapses the rest of the 4-6mm travel, which gives that feeling of depth.
Scissor switches have a shallower amount of 'give' due to the smaller diameter rubber dome at the center of the key, and once you apply enough pressure to collapse the dome, there's a much shorter travel before bottoming out.
If I could get brown Cherry MX switches with 3-4x stronger springs and 1.7mm hard rubber stem spacers to force bottoming out at 2.3mm with low profile keycaps in a flat, thin keyboard, I'd probably adapt relatively well, but at the moment, that's more or less a pipe dream.
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@Kasha_Not_Kesha -- Thanks for the suggestion. I might pick one up just to get a good feel for it for a couple weeks. $10ish is a drop in the bucket in the face of what I've already spent on keyboards.
I really suggest you do. From your responses here, I think you'll really like it a lot. The only issues are the F-key spacing and the lack of a right-side Windows key, but as far as responsiveness and "feel", that Acer keyboard is incredible (especially when you consider the price =O). The key depth to bottom out is tiny compared to a mechanical keyboard, and while I'm not sure what kind of switches it uses, I'm honestly not sure it'd matter with this keyboard, but I am also the least picky person in the world when it comes to keyboards. It's incredibly thin, and it's also quite sturdy, at least in my experiences it has been.
And really, you should keep ignoring everyone suggesting mechanical keyboards; mech boards really aren't all that amazing when it comes down to it. I love my WASD keyboard, but it took me a month or two to get used to it completely. I feel if you can't sit down with a mechanical keyboard on day 1 and completely fall in love with the feel enough to justify dropping $100-$150 for your own, they probably aren't a good choice. Most people are going to do just that, but there are a few that won't, and calling their keyboards "pieces of shit" or claiming that they have inferior tastes is honestly just ignorant stupidity.
Your preferences are neither insane nor unreasonable. It's difficult to find quality non-mechanical keyboards that aren't tricked out with a billion bells and whistles; keys all over the place, function keys everywhere, and fucking scroll wheels because why not?
Regardless of whether you pick up that Acer keyboard, I wish you luck in your search. Let us know if you ever find an acceptable replacement!
Edit:
Just read your last response again, and I noticed you said something about flat keys not being accurate; the Acer keyboard I suggested does have flat key tops, so it might not be what you're looking for after all =\ There is a tiny bit of curvature to the keys, but I'm honestly unsure whether or not that curvature was even intentional, or if mine just warped from use over time. Still, it's cheap enough you could probably risk trying it.
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I already have a mechanical keyboard -- that's why I'm so confident in shooting it down :X
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If you mean which mechanical I have, I have the Das with the "silent" switches.
Still makes a racket though since I type by bottoming out every keystroke, so it's the sound of keycap bottoming out :X
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Yes, Das should refund the people misled by their "Silent" marketing. Even when you ride the acutation point (prevent bottoming out), the upstroke (keycap return) is still noisy, and it's hard to type at full speed without bottoming out because of the weak tactility of the Cherry Browns. So their "Silent" keyboard is in fact significantly noisier than most dome and scissor boards.
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EPT![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/NzZti.jpg)
