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TL Climbing - Page 12

Forum Index > TL Community
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EatThePath
Profile Blog Joined September 2009
United States3943 Posts
January 22 2014 22:48 GMT
#221
On January 23 2014 03:25 sob3k wrote:
Hey I got a rare blood disease and took medication that actually causes muscle atrophy as well as going through a course of chemotherapy last March. I could't walk up stairs and fell off of V2's when I started climbing again after like a 4 month break. But now I'm climbing V8 (7B+) solid. You can do it!

Holy shit dude that's amazing.
Comprehensive strategic intention: DNE
icystorage
Profile Blog Joined November 2008
Jollibee19350 Posts
January 23 2014 00:08 GMT
#222
im gonna wait for that movie to come out

thanks good sir
LiquidDota StaffAre you ready for a Miracle-? We are! The International 2017 Champions!
FragKrag
Profile Blog Joined September 2007
United States11567 Posts
January 26 2014 23:18 GMT
#223
Sent V6 (7A) on Friday, so stoked :D



not a video of me tho
*TL CJ Entusman #40* "like scissors does anything to paper except MAKE IT MORE NUMEROUS" -paper
Epoxide
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
Magic Woods9326 Posts
January 27 2014 01:51 GMT
#224
Nice! Looks like pretty high quality stone
LiquipediaSouma: EU MM is just Russian Roulette. Literally.
FragKrag
Profile Blog Joined September 2007
United States11567 Posts
January 27 2014 03:03 GMT
#225
santa barbara is pretty choss for the most part

that one in particular is pretty good though
*TL CJ Entusman #40* "like scissors does anything to paper except MAKE IT MORE NUMEROUS" -paper
Epoxide
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
Magic Woods9326 Posts
January 27 2014 05:37 GMT
#226
Sweden is basically just granite and mantle only so anything else is a step up imo
LiquipediaSouma: EU MM is just Russian Roulette. Literally.
EatThePath
Profile Blog Joined September 2009
United States3943 Posts
January 28 2014 15:11 GMT
#227
nice fragkrag! I was hoping I'd see you in the vid though XD
Comprehensive strategic intention: DNE
IAmWithStupid
Profile Blog Joined February 2013
Russian Federation1016 Posts
Last Edited: 2014-02-05 10:35:43
February 05 2014 10:34 GMT
#228
I've visited the World Ice Climbing Cup in France this weekend. Here are some pictures (probably, bad quality).

First, some official symbols:
+ Show Spoiler +
[image loading]
[image loading]


Second, the construct itself. It is actually enormous. On the second picture there is a guy at the top part, you can see the scale. Also it is not as difficult as the "icicle" at Kirov (Russia) stage:
+ Show Spoiler +
[image loading]
[image loading]


Speed climbing is one of the two disciplines. The best time among women is 10,56 seconds (men - 7,smth). In Chamonix it took 30 minutes for a leader to climb similar wall (putting ice screws every two meters and everything). I know, these things are not to be compared, but still impressive. They use special light ice axes:
+ Show Spoiler +
[image loading]


And then there were "difficulty" finals. You are given 7 minutes; your route and height, you were able to climb, is what counts:
+ Show Spoiler +
[image loading]
[image loading]


It was absolutely amazing and no words can describe my emotions. Too bad this sport is not popular and it's difficault to find similar construct to climb.
Insert wise words here
icystorage
Profile Blog Joined November 2008
Jollibee19350 Posts
February 05 2014 10:40 GMT
#229
how would the wildlings and jon snow fare on the competition?

thanks for the pics! it looks intense o.o
LiquidDota StaffAre you ready for a Miracle-? We are! The International 2017 Champions!
IAmWithStupid
Profile Blog Joined February 2013
Russian Federation1016 Posts
February 05 2014 10:53 GMT
#230
On February 05 2014 19:40 icystorage wrote:
how would the wildlings and jon snow fare on the competition?

thanks for the pics! it looks intense o.o

It's not about equipment, it's about people who climb. And wildlings are tough! Here are pics from Chamonix museum. Looks very old... But people were able to conquer Everest with this kind of stuff:
+ Show Spoiler +
[image loading]
[image loading]
Insert wise words here
PhiLtheFisH
Profile Joined October 2010
Germany442 Posts
Last Edited: 2014-02-05 19:40:33
February 05 2014 19:37 GMT
#231
I'm going bouldering again tomorrow after 5 weeks injury break (stupid pulley), so excited!!!
Liquipedia
intrigue
Profile Blog Joined November 2005
Washington, D.C9935 Posts
Last Edited: 2014-03-14 15:04:52
March 14 2014 15:02 GMT
#232
i recently got into bouldering. i've gone once a week for 2 months now (this is a huge commitment for physical activity from me if you know me! i'll step it up when i can) and i like it a lot. i really suck but even at once a week i feel like i'm improving and getting less out of shape. i used to get really tired from doing a few v0s and couldn't really do any v1s. i can do a bunch of v1s in a row now without getting the shakes and my general efficiency/strength/endurance all seem a lot better.

i'm starting some v2s now but i keep running into the same issue. i can do some, but on most of them i end up 'stuck' in a position where i feel like i have no leverage to get to the next hold, or it looks like it requires some burst of strength i don't have or a 'leap of faith' to advance. is this normal? it feels like i'm approaching/planning how to tackle a problem wrong conceptually and i'm just weak as shit (definitely true). do you guys have any tips for beginners trying to overcome this? i've just been throwing myself at it stubbornly. also how much more difficult is each level from the next, v0 v1 v2 v3 v4
Moderatorsloppy little slug
Epoxide
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
Magic Woods9326 Posts
Last Edited: 2014-03-14 16:44:04
March 14 2014 16:37 GMT
#233
On March 15 2014 00:02 intrigue wrote:
i recently got into bouldering. i've gone once a week for 2 months now (this is a huge commitment for physical activity from me if you know me! i'll step it up when i can) and i like it a lot. i really suck but even at once a week i feel like i'm improving and getting less out of shape. i used to get really tired from doing a few v0s and couldn't really do any v1s. i can do a bunch of v1s in a row now without getting the shakes and my general efficiency/strength/endurance all seem a lot better.

i'm starting some v2s now but i keep running into the same issue. i can do some, but on most of them i end up 'stuck' in a position where i feel like i have no leverage to get to the next hold, or it looks like it requires some burst of strength i don't have or a 'leap of faith' to advance. is this normal? it feels like i'm approaching/planning how to tackle a problem wrong conceptually and i'm just weak as shit (definitely true). do you guys have any tips for beginners trying to overcome this? i've just been throwing myself at it stubbornly. also how much more difficult is each level from the next, v0 v1 v2 v3 v4



Try to always keep arms straight. Using outside edge whenever you can makes things muuuuuuch much easier. I could climb a lot more when I started using it more frequently.

I had the hardest time going from V4 to V5. V5 to V6 and V6 to V7 was a lot easier for me. It got harder again from V7 to V8, and I've been on V8 for almost a year now.
LiquipediaSouma: EU MM is just Russian Roulette. Literally.
intrigue
Profile Blog Joined November 2005
Washington, D.C9935 Posts
March 14 2014 17:11 GMT
#234
nice video, thanks. need a few rewatches to nail down what i'll try next time. his wrong demonstrations are really helpful because those look like me. was hoping to get a response like yours =]
Moderatorsloppy little slug
EatThePath
Profile Blog Joined September 2009
United States3943 Posts
March 17 2014 16:33 GMT
#235
On March 15 2014 00:02 intrigue wrote:
i recently got into bouldering. i've gone once a week for 2 months now (this is a huge commitment for physical activity from me if you know me! i'll step it up when i can) and i like it a lot. i really suck but even at once a week i feel like i'm improving and getting less out of shape. i used to get really tired from doing a few v0s and couldn't really do any v1s. i can do a bunch of v1s in a row now without getting the shakes and my general efficiency/strength/endurance all seem a lot better.

i'm starting some v2s now but i keep running into the same issue. i can do some, but on most of them i end up 'stuck' in a position where i feel like i have no leverage to get to the next hold, or it looks like it requires some burst of strength i don't have or a 'leap of faith' to advance. is this normal? it feels like i'm approaching/planning how to tackle a problem wrong conceptually and i'm just weak as shit (definitely true). do you guys have any tips for beginners trying to overcome this? i've just been throwing myself at it stubbornly. also how much more difficult is each level from the next, v0 v1 v2 v3 v4

When I started climbing two years ago I was in much the same situation where it seemed like I improved on the beginning stuff at a nice gentle rate and then hit the wall for a while at V2s. I think the way most places rate their problems, this is typical for beginners because there are certain skills and strengths you just don't have yet until you've built them up with steady (but not excessive!) practice. As someone who only ever did running and soccer with minimal upper body, it required asking my body to do things it had never done and until then wasn't even capable of. But everyone can get there by working on it!

Two things you should notice are that your ability to pull up with one arm and "lock off" with a bent elbow while you reach to the next hold is probably not what you'd like it to be, and this is a strength thing you'll just have to develop. It will become very natural once you start to get it, keep trying. The other is that your grip strength is just not that great for anything beyond ledges and jugs, and some holds will feel useless or impossible. You'll be surprised when after a few visits suddenly shit holds feel doable or even positive. This is just a process of increasing your forearm strength and your tendons/ligaments getting stronger, which takes time. I found it very helpful to attempt types of holds that were "out of reach" for my skill level, just to try and push what I was capable of. Try traversing (sideways) around without worrying about the tape on holds that challenge you, especially crimps and slopers.

While you're working on leveling up your strength, use that time on "easy" V1s to refine your technique. Pay attention to your arm extension, when and how you use your energy, how close you are to the wall, which way your hips are, and where your feet are when they aren't on a toehold. You can achieve a lot by adjusting your balance and weight distribution.

glhf
Comprehensive strategic intention: DNE
0x64
Profile Blog Joined September 2002
Finland4644 Posts
March 17 2014 18:42 GMT
#236
I'm still having troubles on simple slabs.
I need to develop the balance.
Also I have troubles with the tendons.
I can't climb 2 days in a row, I need at least 2 days of rest, is it ever going to get better?
I climbed yesterday, today after 3 routes I had to stop because I know my limit and then if I did more I wouldn't be able to use my hands for a week.
Maybe there are some tricks, like drink a gallon of water and inject some flaxseed oil in the rectum, or something climbers just don't talk about :D
Dump of assembler code from 0xffffffec to 0x64: End of assembler dump.
Epoxide
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
Magic Woods9326 Posts
March 17 2014 19:46 GMT
#237
On March 18 2014 03:42 0x64 wrote:
I'm still having troubles on simple slabs.
I need to develop the balance.
Also I have troubles with the tendons.
I can't climb 2 days in a row, I need at least 2 days of rest, is it ever going to get better?
I climbed yesterday, today after 3 routes I had to stop because I know my limit and then if I did more I wouldn't be able to use my hands for a week.
Maybe there are some tricks, like drink a gallon of water and inject some flaxseed oil in the rectum, or something climbers just don't talk about :D

I only need one rest day no matter how long my session is ;;
LiquipediaSouma: EU MM is just Russian Roulette. Literally.
Kau *
Profile Joined March 2007
Canada3502 Posts
March 17 2014 20:12 GMT
#238
I once climbed two days in a row. Never again...
Moderator
FragKrag
Profile Blog Joined September 2007
United States11567 Posts
March 18 2014 00:22 GMT
#239
climbed 4 days in a row at jtree over winter

no regrets.
*TL CJ Entusman #40* "like scissors does anything to paper except MAKE IT MORE NUMEROUS" -paper
icystorage
Profile Blog Joined November 2008
Jollibee19350 Posts
March 18 2014 00:28 GMT
#240
On March 18 2014 03:42 0x64 wrote:
Maybe there are some tricks, like drink a gallon of water and inject some flaxseed oil in the rectum, or something climbers just don't talk about :D

what? O.o
LiquidDota StaffAre you ready for a Miracle-? We are! The International 2017 Champions!
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