EPTI do it every now and then and its really strange how I always seem to find some new ideas and learn more about my climbing. No matter what grades I'm currently working on.
Maybe you guys could share some of your favorite exercises or (mind) tricks?
TL Climbing - Page 13
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Axieoqu
Finland204 Posts
I do it every now and then and its really strange how I always seem to find some new ideas and learn more about my climbing. No matter what grades I'm currently working on. Maybe you guys could share some of your favorite exercises or (mind) tricks? | ||
Epoxide
Magic Woods9326 Posts
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0x64
Finland4577 Posts
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Epoxide
Magic Woods9326 Posts
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EatThePath
United States3943 Posts
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Saechiis
Netherlands4989 Posts
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Epoxide
Magic Woods9326 Posts
On March 20 2014 05:56 Saechiis wrote: Love climbing, dislike heights, fml. Boulder in caves/traverse  | ||
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0x64
Finland4577 Posts
http://www.kwg.tv/go/?3142a3e | ||
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IAmWithStupid
Russian Federation1016 Posts
Question to the fellow climbers from Netherlands: would you consider buying equipment from russian company if it has all necessary certification + has orange colour rather than buying everything standard from big names like Petzl, Black Diamond, etc.? | ||
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Rimstalker
Germany734 Posts
![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/ttMwYsa.jpg) ![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/Trk1e25.jpg) | ||
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Rimstalker
Germany734 Posts
On March 18 2014 03:42 0x64 wrote: I'm still having troubles on simple slabs. I need to develop the balance. Also I have troubles with the tendons. I can't climb 2 days in a row, I need at least 2 days of rest, is it ever going to get better? I climbed yesterday, today after 3 routes I had to stop because I know my limit and then if I did more I wouldn't be able to use my hands for a week. Maybe there are some tricks, like drink a gallon of water and inject some flaxseed oil in the rectum, or something climbers just don't talk about :D What helped me tons with balance was to do (easy) indoor routes 'stupidly'. We have the children's wall in the gym, which has top ropes attached, and half of it is angled. Where the angled part meets the non-angled, you have a corner (don't know the climbing specific term for it, sorry), that widens as it goes up. At that place, we'd climb up, using handholds of one color only with the feet, and the hands only flat on the wall. Seemed impossible at the start, but after a couple of times, you get the hang of it, and it teaches you how to move and place your weight. Sometimes, placing your feet only one centimeter differently already makes the difference between failure and success. I like corners a lot, so I also make my own routes on the 'outside' (90 degrees of wall, 270 degrees air) or I go up on 'inside' corners, only using the wall and structures for my feet, or only using one side for feet, and the other one for hands. About tendons (and joints): I always had painful elbows after climbing overhangs, probably due to the joints not being used to the stress, and bad technique on top of it. So I specialized in climbing vertical routes, and only do 1 or 2 overhangs, and not at all if my elbows were acting up. After two years of that, I can now do overhangs and roofs until my arms give in. What parts of your hands are hurting? Beginners generally use way too much power with their hands and arms. About rest: Sauna is amazing, and hot baths help as well. When we go on climbing trips, the limiting factor is usually the skin on our fingertips that gets worn off, so we climb for three days, then have a rest day, then three more days. | ||
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LuckoftheIrish
United States4791 Posts
On March 18 2014 23:34 Axieoqu wrote: Maybe you guys could share some of your favorite exercises or (mind) tricks? Eliminates. Take something that's like a grade below your limit and start taking stuff off until it's at or above your limit. And I make up a lot of my own stuff in the gym these days. Find a move that's fun to do and build a problem around it. | ||
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CatNzHat
United States1599 Posts
On March 20 2014 05:56 Saechiis wrote: Love climbing, dislike heights, fml. Climbing will help you overcome the fear of heights. Fall a few (read: thousand) times on top rope and you'll be fine. | ||
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AeroGear
Canada652 Posts
Ultimately its up to you to determine your inherent limits, mental as much as physical. I can run and climb decently but I can't do it everyday. My 2014 goal would be to send a 5.12 >_< | ||
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FragKrag
United States11552 Posts
here's 2 pics of me on my send of smooth criminal http://imgur.com/gd2XOx6,YGCbIEM#0 | ||
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Deleted User 3420
24492 Posts
On March 15 2014 01:37 Epoxide wrote: Try to always keep arms straight. Using outside edge whenever you can makes things muuuuuuch much easier. I could climb a lot more when I started using it more frequently. I had the hardest time going from V4 to V5. V5 to V6 and V6 to V7 was a lot easier for me. It got harder again from V7 to V8, and I've been on V8 for almost a year now. THIS VIDEO IS SO HELPFUL LOL I'd been doing like v4-v5 off of just pure body/grip strength and always wondering why i suck so bad lol | ||
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Epoxide
Magic Woods9326 Posts
You get really addicted to that adrenaline rush though | ||
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0x64
Finland4577 Posts
http://27crags.com/crags/taljala They have already done 20 routes, but there might be 20x more to do, many, huge boulders, some are really big monsters close to 7 meters on the high side, very rare in this part of Finland. Didn't climb much though, did maybe 2 slab around 4, and one baby slab as a 3-4... One hour ago, someone even uploaded a video for one route, check it out. On a side-note, I really hate finnish granite, it's the Lada of bouldering. It works, but anything else would be better. It's sharp, huge chunk breaks after each winter... When you come from Bleau, it's really hard to get exited. | ||
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Epoxide
Magic Woods9326 Posts
On April 19 2014 05:27 0x64 wrote: Went outdoor today also, into a crag discovered a month ago by some local climbers, it is now the closest place for me to climb, 25 min of driving. http://27crags.com/crags/taljala They have already done 20 routes, but there might be 20x more to do, many, huge boulders, some are really big monsters close to 7 meters on the high side, very rare in this part of Finland. Didn't climb much though, did maybe 2 slab around 4, and one baby slab as a 3-4... One hour ago, someone even uploaded a video for one route, check it out. On a side-note, I really hate finnish granite, it's the Lada of bouldering. It works, but anything else would be better. It's sharp, huge chunk breaks after each winter... When you come from Bleau, it's really hard to get exited. same in Sweden, sharp granite is just ugh | ||
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CatfooD
United States203 Posts
On March 15 2014 00:02 intrigue wrote: i'm starting some v2s now but i keep running into the same issue. i can do some, but on most of them i end up 'stuck' in a position where i feel like i have no leverage to get to the next hold, or it looks like it requires some burst of strength i don't have or a 'leap of faith' to advance. is this normal? it feels like i'm approaching/planning how to tackle a problem wrong conceptually and i'm just weak as shit (definitely true). do you guys have any tips for beginners trying to overcome this? i've just been throwing myself at it stubbornly. also how much more difficult is each level from the next, v0 v1 v2 v3 v4 One concept that I must enforce for beginners is the importance of your footwork. Starting out, people that are generally in good shape can climb V0-V1 without much difficulty within their first few weeks. But once you start attempting V2s, you are much more pressured to use your footwork to your advantage much more than before. I would highly suggest observing better climbers when you are resting at the gym and pay special attention to the way they maneuver their feet. I like to think of it as a general 2:1 ratio -- for each move you make with your hands, you ought to be moving your feet twice. This is not always true or accurate of course, but it stresses the importance of positioning your body to generate force in a particular direction much better. Your footwork will also dictate the orientation of the rest of your body to the wall, what direction your hips are facing, and how your body is going to move in reference to the holds you are grabbing if you pressed on your feet at any moment. If you observe better climbers while they are warming up on some of these V2s you are working on, you will notice how they move their feet in reference to the holds they are grabbing. Obviously strength is a huge issue as well, but I would argue that having proper footwork, knowing your center of gravity, understanding how body tension works, consciously breathing, drinking lots of water, being properly rested, warmed up, and fed all have arguably more important roles than focusing on how strong you are currently. Most importantly this is because you cannot change how strong you are in the moment, but you can change all of the rest of these things. Strength will come with time and effort over time, and specifically from training to be stronger. I would suggest taking a completely holistic approach to climbing and not thinking about it in terms of sheer strength at all. You will want to work out your abs regularly in order to maintain a strong core that is essential for controlling your body tension on the wall. You will also want to (eventually) practice hanging on finger boards to develop strength in your tendons. You will want to practice pull-ups and negatives on hangboards to develop muscle strength using different grip positions, such as on jugs, slopers, pinches, crimps, etc. When warming up, practice traversing back and forth across the top-rope walls, and often challenge yourself to make longer moves and grab smaller holds. Make sure and strength each of your fingers carefully but firmly in all directions before climbing hard after warming up, and you should also sit down and stretch your legs out in several ways for 5 minutes before climbing hard. Although all of these things might seem like a burden to remember, I guarantee you that if you pay attention to developing your skills on all of these fronts that you will not only be much better and more well-rounded of a climbing in the long run, but you will develop fast, efficiently, and be happy doing so. There is much more to climbing than simply being strong enough to do a pull up right off each hold to get to the top. | ||
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