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On October 13 2017 22:09 Wrath wrote:
Thanks guys.
The monitor says 1.5A of 100-240V(AC). My power source is 220V AC. Router is 1.5A of 12V.
That is definitively not the case. Normal monitors don't use 150-360W. What it probably means is that you have to attach the monitor PSU thingy to 100-240V, and that it then outputs up to 1.5A at whatever voltage it outputs. Or that that is a max that the PSU can handle, not what the monitor uses.
Also, i read up on it for a bit, and it turns out VA is not the same as W because people making these things are fucking stupid. It should be the same, because W means exactly the same as VA in physics, but they use it differently.
Lets say I get 1200VA UPS. How can I know how long will the UPS last before it powers off?
Figure out how much energy storage the UPS has. Sadly, apparently they don't tell you, at least for those UPS that a quick amazon search showed me, there was no obvious information as to how much energy it stores. I have no idea why, that should be an interesting information if you buy one. Probably also hidden in some other weirdly strange format because people suck at physics and don't just tell you the stuff you need to know, but instead have some weird industry format of telling you stuff that is weirdly cryptic.
Basically, it should have some amount of Wh (Watthours) of energy stored in there. Divide that by the amount of Watt you pull from it, and you figure out the amount of hours that it lasts. For example, if it were a 150 Wh battery and you pull 300W from it, it would last 0.5 hours.
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The easiest way to measure your PC usage is to buy something like a Kill-A-Watt. It will tell you the draw from the wall of any device plugged into it.
Basically your biggest usages are going to be a bit of a spike when turning the PC on and when running the CPU/GPU at full load. You'll just need to figure out your max load and then have enough VA to cover that with some headroom (loads will vary a bit and your PSU will become slowly less efficient as it ages).
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United Kingdom20344 Posts
On October 13 2017 22:09 Wrath wrote:
Thanks guys.
The monitor says 1.5A of 100-240V(AC). My power source is 220V AC. Router is 1.5A of 12V.
Lets say I get 1200VA UPS. How can I know how long will the UPS last before it powers off?
Thanks guys.
The monitor says 1.5A of 100-240V(AC).
It probably has an input of 100-240v, converts that to something like 12v and then uses 1.5a of that
1.5a of 100-240v doesn't make sense because that would imply 150-360w consumption which is extremely high and the monitor can't use both 150 or 360w, it will use a similar amount of power no matter the wall voltage (lol most of this already said, i didn't read the next page  )
I can't speak for the UPS stuff, just the power usage of components; it could quite easily be something like 300w for PC + monitor + router, a bit higher maybe but nowhere near 1000w
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United Kingdom20344 Posts
On October 14 2017 01:41 Archangelsc2l wrote:
Hey guys I want to do an upgrade to my current system:
Intel Core i5-4460, 3300 MHz
Gigabyte GA-B85M-D2V
Nvidia GTX 950 (2GB)
FPS hexa+ 500w
RAM DDR3 8GB @1333mhz
SSD TOSHIBA Q300
my goal is to stream SC2 at least 720p@60fps or using the NVENC encoder at more ?
I am thinking about the i5-7600k but I will need a mobo and a cooler and that's about my budget 350-400€. Also I am not sure if intel is the correct choice right now or to get a ryzen. When I asked in a national(bulgarian) forum offer to get the INTEL CORE i3-8350K + ASROCK Z370 is this a solid choice or is there something better?
8600k would be very good if you could afford it, the 7600k is the last gen version with 1.5x less cores and a little worse overclock capability. They're supposed to be around the same price but in practice it's probably more expensive and difficult to get an 8600k right now
At lower price points it's hard to say. Overclocked i3 is a decent option, so is the ryzen r5 1600 (this one comes with a stock cooler stock cooler) or the 1600/1600x (i forgot which is best there, 1600x had no stock cooler) with a custom cooler and overclock. The i5 8400 is okay as well, similar to the ryzen 6 cores.
You should be able to do the NVENC stuff already. For CPU encoding it's a mixture of running the game well and having enough encoding performance to handle the stream as well - an 8600k would be great for both, i3 would run the game well but struggle with stream and ryzen would run the game worse but stream well. If you don't have the FPS ingame then you can't play as well or stream the frames that you don't have so it's a tricky decision
You would also need new RAM since they all use ddr4; sc2 scales with RAM performance so it's good to get 3000+mhz ddr4 if possible. Buying new RAM at all is quite expensive too at the moment and kinda ruins budget
It's kinda important if you are overclocking or not for the final choice
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Also for some actual numbers:
My last setup with 2x GTX 780, half a dozen HDD/SSD, and an OC'd 3770K drew about 650W from the wall peak.
My custom NAS which has no GPU and some lower-end CPU and 6x HDDs draws 200W on startup and then averages about 100W. I've got this attached to it which has worked without issue for a few years: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842101494
The APC stuff can usually connect to your PC with USB and then there's software that will allow you to shutdown your PC after a period of time with no wall power. In my case w/ FreeNAS I have it configured to trigger a normal shutdown after 30 seconds of no power.
Watts vs VA:
https://www.power-solutions.com/watts-va
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Thanks Cyro I've decided to wait for Q1 2018 for the new motherboards and maybe then I will have a bigger budget as well. I really want to the fps ingame cause I will be buying a 144hz monitor as well. Right now I am looking forward to the 8400 and even the 8700 if have the budget till then : ) I just wonder if the 8400 will give me enough frames in sc2 big fights :thinking:
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United Kingdom20344 Posts
I don't know about that but you should be able to get fan splitters that take one mobo connector and give 2+ to plug fans into. They're fine to use for regular power fans
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I've been putting a parts list together and I can't decide whether I want to get an i5 or an i7 and 1070 vs 1080. What would you say are the pros of getting the higher end parts besides $$$. I'm mostly going to be using it for gaming some triple AAA but mostly counter strike and other misc tasks.
Also would a 450 psu bronze certified be enough?
For a monitor i'm running a single 2k but probably gonna get another one in the next year or so.
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United Kingdom20344 Posts
An 8700k is just equal or better than the 8600k in every way aside from being a bit harder to cool. It's the last CPU that is a straight upgrade as the more expensive CPU's beyond that have new performance deficiencies and tradeoffs.
It's nice to have but often hard to justify giving up other parts of the system for; added multithreaded performance when you already have 6 fast cores is not that important for a lot of workloads and games.
450w PSU would be fine but that kind of unit is cutting a few corners, it's probably 3 year warranty and a single 6+2 pin pci-e connector when higher end graphics cards often need or benefit from two connectors. I like the ~550w, double 6+2 pin, 5yr warranty gold units that can be a bit more $$$
What res do you mean by 2k?
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I wouldn't cut corners on your PSU. Especially if you use your PC a lot.
Even if you are not using the full capacity of a PSU, PSUs are usually most efficient at around 50-75% load. Bronze vs gold is on average a change of about 5% in effiency at all loads. So even ignoring all of the added benefits of having a better PSU, it also makes your PC run cheaper. Of course it depends on how much you use your PC whether it is worth it or not.
A 5% change in efficiency means you save about 1/20th of the power you use. (Not exactly, the calculations are different, but at low percentages they are kinda equal). So depending on your PC usage, a more expensive PSU might pay for itself after a year or two.
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On October 20 2017 17:50 Cyro wrote:
An 8700k is just equal or better than the 8600k in every way aside from being a bit harder to cool. It's the last CPU that is a straight upgrade as the more expensive CPU's beyond that have new performance deficiencies and tradeoffs.
It's nice to have but often hard to justify giving up other parts of the system for; added multithreaded performance when you already have 6 fast cores is not that important for a lot of workloads and games.
450w PSU would be fine but that kind of unit is cutting a few corners, it's probably 3 year warranty and a single 6+2 pin pci-e connector when higher end graphics cards often need or benefit from two connectors. I like the ~550w, double 6+2 pin, 5yr warranty gold units that can be a bit more $$$
What res do you mean by 2k?
The monitor resolution is 2560 x 1600
There is a 550 Platinum unit on sale at Newegg for 50$ that I'll try and pickup
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Hey guys! It's been quite a while since I've put a computer together... I've been using laptops for too long and I'm ready to switch back to a desktop. My hardware related knowledge is vastly outdated, but I've tried to catch up. This is what I've come up with so far: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/99ZGyf
This system is supposed to serve my entertainment as well as work needs. Budget is about 2k CAD (incl. dual monitors). I took the Ryzen 5 1600x as a base and built around it.
All feedback & recommendations to improve the build are welcome!
Biggest concerns are me missing something or buying inefficient parts. I feel I've done quite ok, but if there are any cheaper equivalents to any of the parts (while maintaining similar quality), definitely let me know.
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United Kingdom20344 Posts
why 1600x with OC stuff instead of a stock 1600 build that would be ~$110-150 cheaper? I'd probably push for a 1700 if the 1600 wasn't good enough before considering overclocks
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On October 21 2017 20:47 Cyro wrote:
why 1600x with OC stuff instead of a stock 1600 build that would be ~$110-150 cheaper? I'd probably push for a 1700 if the 1600 wasn't good enough before considering overclocks
Good point. The 1600 is boxed as well, which would save me additional costs needed for the cooler/thermal paste/mounting kit, taking off about $130~
What do you think about the memory? What would I gain from 32GB opposed to 16GB?
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Ignore this if it's too off topic, but I'm suddenly running into continuous BSODs on startup with varying messages (Bad Pool Header, Kernel check, Page Fault in Non Paged Area, etc). Took out the ram sticks one by one, switched the SSD with one from another computer, took out the GPU - no change. Am I correct in assuming that it's either the motherboard or CPU or could it also be a PSU issue? I'm somewhat lost as to what to check next and how to do it. Thanks in advance if anyone can help.
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Doesn't sound like PSU to me. PSU usually means random resets or shutdowns, not BSOD.
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United Kingdom20344 Posts
On October 22 2017 05:40 Smorrie wrote:Show nested quote +On October 21 2017 20:47 Cyro wrote:
why 1600x with OC stuff instead of a stock 1600 build that would be ~$110-150 cheaper? I'd probably push for a 1700 if the 1600 wasn't good enough before considering overclocks Good point. The 1600 is boxed as well, which would save me additional costs needed for the cooler/thermal paste/mounting kit, taking off about $130~ What do you think about the memory? What would I gain from 32GB opposed to 16GB?
More RAM is not usually of any benefit unless you're running out of it. 8GB isn't a lot these days, 16GB a lot more common and harder to fill up while 32-64GB+ is usually for more niche applications
If you have a mobo with 4 RAM slots and buy 2x8GB you can drop in another 2x8GB later
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On October 22 2017 17:00 Simberto wrote:
Doesn't sound like PSU to me. PSU usually means random resets or shutdowns, not BSOD.
It was indeed the CPU. Thanks for the help!
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EPT
