WCSSpanish (Argentina) es-ar
Spanish (Bolivia) es-bo
Spanish (Chile) es-cl
Spanish (Colombia) es-co
Spanish (Costa Rica) es-cr
Spanish (Dominican Republic) es-do
Spanish (Ecuador) es-ec
Spanish (El Salvador) es-sv
Spanish (Guatemala) es-gt
Spanish (Honduras) es-hn
Spanish (Mexico) es-mx
Spanish (Nicaragua) es-ni
Spanish (Panama) es-pa
Spanish (Paraguay) es-py
Spanish (Peru) es-pe
Spanish (Puerto Rico) es-pr
Spanish (Spain) es
Spanish (Uruguay) es-uy
Spanish (Venezuela) es-ve
Simple Questions Simple Answers - Page 638
| Forum Index > Tech Support |
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Craton
United States12004 Posts
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Dingodile
3955 Posts
edit: you have a i9 9900k cpu. which amount of fps you can expect on 1v1 ladder? I am watching a stream, it shows ~120 in the first minute and then ~70fps constantly. Rotti uses a 4690k and he gets 150++fps 90% of the time. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom19375 Posts
FPS in sc2 also has to be a lot higher than in other games because the frame delivery is extremely unsmooth - a given FPS will look a lot less smooth and be more painful to interact with than for most other games. RAM performance makes a huge difference with top end DDR4 giving some 25% more FPS than lower end. Streaming also has a non-negligable performance hit in the most popular configurations (x264 veryfast-fast) ![[image loading]](https://www.overclock3d.net/gfx/articles/2019/01/08102601552s.jpg) | ||
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Sieget
4 Posts
Could you show a screenshot? The language codes for Spanish don't have any with AS. Typically they have variants for each country where they're used since there are often slight differences with spelling and lexicon. In-Game https://imgur.com/IyjxLzw Battle.net Launcher https://imgur.com/SvIN8fe I actually as well made a typo in the original post, but it gets even more unusual in that the in game options differ in nomenclature from the battle.net launcher. I have screen shot above showing the two sets of options for Spanish. | ||
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Craton
United States12004 Posts
https://us.battle.net/forums/es/d3/topic/4662316406 | ||
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Xophy
Germany72 Posts
I would appreciate any help. Thanks in advance! | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom19375 Posts
The kinds of laptop CPU's that you'd want to use integrated graphics to game on have 45-65w power budgets (like the i7-8750H) so that they can run those workloads without immediately throttling to a third of normal performance. | ||
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Xophy
Germany72 Posts
Option 1: Acer Nitro 5 i5-8300H, 8GB DDR4-2666, GTX 1050, 599€ Option 2: Asus TUF Ryzen 5 3550H, 8GB DDR4-2400, RX 560x, 699€ So, without having more than the most basic idea, I guess the first option dominates the second one in every aspect (except for weight)? And I probably should be able to run SC2 at least on low settings? I am not yet prepared to adjust my budget since at home I use my desktop-pc to play ... | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom19375 Posts
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KOFgokuon
United States13864 Posts
I’d post the specs from his comp but he can’t start it up to run cpu-s. When he starts it up his motherboards debug light flashes before the whole thing restarts again, which points to cpu or motherboard error? Any suggestions would be great We built it around 2015 iirc I’ll try to dig out more information Components I5-6500 skylake G.skill f4-2400 2x8GB ddr4 ram Msi h170a Kha 1151 motherboard Seasonic ssr-650rm 650w gold psu Gigabyte windforce gtx 1060 Cooler master elite 431 mid tower Samsung 840 evo ssd | ||
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Simberto
Germany7410 Posts
Is there any beepcode? You might need to attach a piezo speaker to hear those if your motherboard doesn't have an inbuilt one, but it is very well worth it for diagnosis (And you can get a piezo speaker for a dollar or so). Take a look at your mainboard manual regarding where to apply it. Try removing components and see if that changes the behaviour. What happens if you remove ram, graphics card etc...? If the barebones PC (PSU, Motherboard, processor) still behaves exactly the same, one of those is clearly the problem. If you get a "No RAM" beepcode or something like that | ||
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FiWiFaKi
Canada5123 Posts
I need to take a lot of pictures on the job site and send them to people, so it's unacceptable for me. I talked to Freedom Mobile (where I got my phone), and Samsung, and they both pointed me to an authorized service center, I went to one of the two certified ones in Calgary and got quoted $350 for it, which is pretty steep, and I'm thinking I can do it myself. I did cell phone repair for a few months when I was 18, so I have some previous experience, though I was doing pretty basic stuff at the shop and would appreciate some tips. If anyone has any experience, if someone could point me to the right direction for which parts to buy to ensure good quality, maybe a good kit to buy that would allow me to do the repair, and if there is, a recommended walkthrough for the repair. On ifixit, the back camera is $30, the glass is $5, shipping is $12.50, so $48... Changing to CAD, let's say $65... The Canadian store doesn't have the Samsung parts. What tools would I need to complete the repair? Would you say this is a reasonable option? How would I go about water proofing it? The video here is vague but makes it seem pretty easy: I didn't go through the tool prices, but say $55 for all the tools, so $120 as the total cost, Do you guys think this is reasonable risk reward, buying what they listed there and doing it. Any other options? | ||
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voltize
2 Posts
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R1CH
Netherlands10007 Posts
On May 06 2019 19:15 voltize wrote: Hi, I just signed into TL.net using my Reddit account. Can I somehow use this account for signing into Liquipedia or do I have to create a new account with email and password? As long as you're logged in on tl.net, you should see a "Login with tl.net account" button appear on the Liquipedia login page. If not, check any ad blocker / privacy addons etc aren't blocking the connection to tl.net from liquipedia.net. | ||
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voltize
2 Posts
On May 06 2019 20:12 R1CH wrote: As long as you're logged in on tl.net, you should see a "Login with tl.net account" button appear on the Liquipedia login page. If not, check any ad blocker / privacy addons etc aren't blocking the connection to tl.net from liquipedia.net. Thank you, it worked after disabling my addons. | ||
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Crozo64
54 Posts
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Wombat_NI
Northern Ireland10786 Posts
Only issue I'm having is that I can't actually get it to work as intended, I don't want to mirror or extend from a laptop screen because all that does is give me lower resolutions with less screen real estate on the touchscreen. I know what the issue is, I've just not been able to actually do it, which is I want the touchscreen monitor to be considered the main display, and the laptop screen the extension. It's purely a UI/OS issue as I know what I want to do (if I'm wrong by the way let me know!), but I just cannot find the bloody options anywhere. Both with Mac OSX and Windows 10, as I tried it with two different items. I have done some cursory Googling, I'm reasonably computer and tech literate but I just have never ever used a dual monitor setup at home, nor do I have anything to check solutions work outside of when I went in to the place I'm volunteering at, which this week will be a very short period indeed. If I had longer to muck around with I'd be more happy to go in and trial and error a bit more. Any advice much appreciated. | ||
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Acrofales
Spain14233 Posts
Just be aware that if there's a very big discrepancy between the resolutions, your mouse can "get stuck" when moving from the larger one to the smaller one. You can select the relative position of the two screens to make it as smooth as possible, but there will always be a portion of the screen where it won't move over to the other display (because those pixels simply don't exist on the lower resolution display). I know this is how you do it in Windows 10 and in Ubuntu (where it's called "join display" rather than "extend desktop"). | ||
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Wombat_NI
Northern Ireland10786 Posts
On May 31 2019 00:29 Acrofales wrote: You want to extend the desktop. That allows you to select the resolution independently for each screen, and you can set your larger display to its native resolution. You can also select the "second" display as your main one. Just be aware that if there's a very big discrepancy between the resolutions, your mouse can "get stuck" when moving from the larger one to the smaller one. You can select the relative position of the two screens to make it as smooth as possible, but there will always be a portion of the screen where it won't move over to the other display (because those pixels simply don't exist on the lower resolution display). I know this is how you do it in Windows 10 and in Ubuntu (where it's called "join display" rather than "extend desktop"). Yeah that makes sense, they primarily use this as a teaching aid for various things, so I assume they’ll be basically using it as if it’s the sole monitor, so mouse behaviour being inconsistent shouldn’t be too big a deal. Pretty nifty bit of kit actually, has a touch interface on it too Thanks a lot, hopefully will have some luck with it tomorrow. | ||
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Doodsmack
United States6976 Posts
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