EPTSimple Questions Simple Answers - Page 419
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CHiPZ
Liechtenstein38 Posts
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Cyro
United Kingdom20276 Posts
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
On December 09 2013 07:47 Manifesto7 wrote: I'm in the market for a new laptop for work. I'm using a tablet for just about all browsing / video / media work these days, so the laptop would be just for documents (wp / spreadsheets / powerpoint), light photo editing, and the odd email or flash enabled website requirement. Any suggestions? I was thinking a chromebook, but finding trustworthy reviews online are few and far between. A point in the right direction would be most welcome. Thanks. On December 09 2013 07:58 iTzSnypah wrote: ASUS Transformer book T100 Transformer Book T100 is a Windows (real desktop/laptop Windows) tablet that includes a keyboard dock. It's a pretty good product, especially for the price, but it's small with a 10.1" screen and seems like way too much of an overlap with your current tablet unless you want to do everything with this device. Not like you need much CPU power for most things, but I wouldn't want to do too much on an Atom processor, even if they've gotten much better with this new generation. With a Chromebook, the issue would be whether Google Docs versions of office software are sufficient for your purposes. I'd guess perhaps not for many people. Some reviews (note that there exist several different Chromebook models): http://www.anandtech.com/show/7418/hp-chromebook-11-review http://www.notebookcheck.net/Review-Acer-C720-2800-Chromebook.105937.0.html Unfortunately, for traditional laptops, the overall quality usually sucks when you're around and above the price range of a Chromebook. About how much were you expecting to spend? (in yen, I'm assuming) On December 09 2013 08:55 Cyro wrote: Hey guys, big budget build for 780ti/4770k. Any crazy overkill airflow cases out there? We're looking for a 240/280mm CLC or even a H320 (3*120mm) on the CPU (maybe in push/pull with something like sp120's) and for the GPU airflow to levitate the case. Xigmatek Elysium which was a random case i could name would allow for 360mm rad top with 3x fans (6 supported?? unsure) and then something could be sorted out for GPU - between two front 120mm's, two bottom 140mm's (with psu at bottom), 200mm side and 140mm rear. Any other suggestions? He is more concerned for awesomeness than cost effectiveness Corsair 750D and Air 540, NZXT Phantom 630 (also older and more expensive 820), maybe the old Cooler Master HAF X or Stacker 935 for ridiculousness (or Cosmos, really), or... I'm sure I'm forgetting some from Lian Li and others. 360mm rads really don't get you much of anything over 280mm. Forgo 360mm support and there are more options. But maybe one of the above already works. | ||
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iTzSnypah
United States1738 Posts
http://www.anandtech.com/show/7428/asus-transformer-book-t100-review/4 Also with the Transformer book you get free windows office. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
Though even in those browser benchmarks, HP Chromebook 11 (ARM Cortex A15 dual core Exynos 5250) gets similar results as the T100 (Bay Trail Atom Z3740 quad core). Doesn't seem much weaker to me. Then something like Acer C720 has a Haswell Celeron dual core in it, which is way faster than Atom. I don't think the Chromebook fits the usage patterns and needs of most people though. The question is mostly whether or not to get a larger, non-tablety notebook or just go for the T100. | ||
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Ncutable
Romania99 Posts
I ask your advice for a friend who wants to buy a used PC. Please refer me to a different thread if there is a better one for stuff like this. He wants to use it for games and stuff like Photoshop. The main question I have is if the price is ok. For the German speaking guys here is the link: http://kleinanzeigen.ebay.de/anzeigen/s-anzeige/gaming-pc-fuer-aktuelle-spiele-mit-win-7-8-1/163215768-228-4246?ref=wl. The components are as follows: 3R Systems R480 Midi Tower MB: GA-P67A-UD3-B3 CPU: Intel i5-2500 RAM: GEIL DDR3 Hardcore Gaming Memory 2x4GB DDR3 a1333MHz GPU: Asus GTX 560 TI 448 Core 1.280 GB DDR5 HD: Samsung SSD 830 250 GB and WD Blue [500GB] Power: be quiet 530Watt including Win 7 or 8 Pro There´s no word on how old it is but I think it´s not older than 2 years. Do you think this PC is worth the 500 Euro the seller is asking? Thank you in advance! | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
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Ncutable
Romania99 Posts
On December 10 2013 03:53 Myrmidon wrote: Yeah, if it's legit and working it's definitely worth (more than) 500 euros. Go ahead. Yeah, my friend said the seller sounded honest when talking on the phone. But who doesn´t when he wants to sell something?  Thank you for the super quick answer. | ||
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IdiotSavant
United States88 Posts
what do these stats mean and which is better>? 200 cd/m2 ACM 100,000,000:1 (600:1) vs 250 cd/m2 ACM 100,000,000:1 (1000:1) | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
The other is some kind of made-up dynamic contrast ratio BS. And the last is the supposed non-gimmick (real world, no dynamic shenanigans) contrast ratio. I wouldn't imagine that 600:1 or 1000:1 is actually accurate though. And probably not for the brightness, though these should be in the ballpark. The only thing is that if something is advertising 600:1 contrast ratio, it's probably some low-grade product that knows it blows. Higher actual value for contrast ratio is better. Anyhow, moral of the story is not to trust manufacturer specs on these. Don't compare monitors by them except unless you already know what's up and can decipher some of the codespeak. Like if it says 170 / 160 viewing angles, it's a TN. See the monitor thread. edit: If you're serious about finding something now, what are you going to be using the monitor for? Which games? Budget? In fact... On December 03 2013 06:32 Myrmidon wrote: For what? What kind of usage? Which games? How sensitive are you to ghosting / motion blur / reverse ghosting issues? Latency? Preferences or needs on antiglare coating? Do you mind heavy coating with some sparkle effects? (so glossy or matte preferred?) If you can't control the lighting in the room and have light sources behind the monitor, glossy is probably a bad idea. How much is having a height-adjustable stand worth to you? Is portrait mode a plus? How much do you notice TN color shifting? (for example, web pages that are a solid color looking a different color at the top than the bottom) How dark is the room you're going to be using? Some monitors have a relatively high minimum brightness that might be too bright in dark rooms without killing contrast by turning that down too to compensate. | ||
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IdiotSavant
United States88 Posts
On December 10 2013 04:24 Myrmidon wrote: The cd/m^2 is brightness (Candelas per square meter). If you're using the monitor in a very bright, lit-up room, 200 cd/m^2 is on the low side. Though really, 250 cd/m^2 wouldn't be much different... if these are accurate at all, which they probably aren't. Most sane people in normal conditions wouldn't use the max brightness anyway though. The other is some kind of made-up dynamic contrast ratio BS. And the last is the supposed non-gimmick (real world, no dynamic shenanigans) contrast ratio. I wouldn't imagine that 600:1 or 1000:1 is actually accurate though. And probably not for the brightness, though these should be in the ballpark. The only thing is that if something is advertising 600:1 contrast ratio, it's probably some low-grade product that knows it blows. Higher actual value for contrast ratio is better. Anyhow, moral of the story is not to trust manufacturer specs on these. Don't compare monitors by them except unless you already know what's up and can decipher some of the codespeak. Like if it says 170 / 160 viewing angles, it's a TN. See the monitor thread. edit: If you're serious about finding something now, what are you going to be using the monitor for? Which games? Budget? In fact... oh I didn't think to check for a monitor thread..show have known. ill post there and answer your questions too. thanks! | ||
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Headlines
United States482 Posts
First, is doing an external build advisable before I put the parts inside the case? My only concern is that I'll finish the cable management and the motherboard may not work. Second, I'm new to SSDs and would like some insight on installing an OS. I plan on transferring over my hard drive from my current build, which already has Windows installed. Do I just install the SSD as another storage drive on my new build, reformat the hard drive, and during reformat install the OS onto the SSD? I've already saved any necessary files onto flash drives. Third, Do I need to go into my BIOS and change any settings to increase the performance of the SSD? My motherboard is an ASRock Fatality Z87 Killer and the SSD is the Samsung EVO. Thanks! [edit] Thanks Myrmidon! | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
Easiest is probably just to only have the SSD plugged in. Then install the OS on that. Then turn the computer off and plug in the old hard drive. You don't need to wipe that drive if you don't want to. All the default settings should be correct these days (actually, since a while) on a new install. If you want, make sure you're using AHCI mode in the UEFI interface (BIOS) before you install the OS. | ||
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carmon
United States220 Posts
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
On December 10 2013 17:46 carmon wrote: Are there any risks involved with setting mouse polling rates to 1000 hz? From what I read its a bunch of mixed opinions. I have a Deathadder. There should be zero risks involved. Nothing will break. If it seems to work fine, you can use it. Some mice don't work right on 1000Hz compared to 500Hz, but yours should not be one of those. I don't know how to check for this if it's something very subtle. I had a PC years ago that did not like 1000Hz. The mouse itself was fine with it. What could be seen was the mouse pointer often slowing down massively, still moving for half a second after my hand stopped. From what I've seen people post in forums, more people seem to say that you should use 1000Hz if it works correctly. The 500Hz guys seem to be the minority. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20276 Posts
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Craton
United States17234 Posts
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Bleak
Turkey3059 Posts
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Cyro
United Kingdom20276 Posts
On December 11 2013 01:28 Craton wrote: Deathadder was the worst mouse I've ever owned for what it's worth. Why? 3.5g is one of the best sensors out there - i'm still looking for a solid replacement | ||
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mihajovics
179 Posts
On December 10 2013 04:15 IdiotSavant wrote: Looking to buy a new monitor. newegg greenday sales so could be nice what do these stats mean and which is better>? 200 cd/m2 ACM 100,000,000:1 (600:1) vs 250 cd/m2 ACM 100,000,000:1 (1000:1) do yourself a favor and check them out in real life before ordering online you just have to see it for yourself! | ||
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