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On August 08 2013 10:58 scott31337 wrote:You can still check the drives health, it's still a hard drive  I recommend writing/booting a Hiren CD http://www.hirensbootcd.org/ and using the disks tools on it instead, not mucking around with heatlh checks in Windows. There is also MacDrive among others (Or if you need only read-only, Apple_HFS_Read_Only_Driver_v3.2.0.2.zip works great) you can use to read the drive if you need to back stuff off of it.
Alright I used that. Drive came back at 99% health with two bad sectors. When I tried to repair those two bad sectors it said there were none. I am assuming that the cable is the part that is bad now. Just ordered one on Amazon for $25(Such a ripoff). Am I right in my conclusions????
Thanks
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What kind of jewel encrusted cable did you manage to spend $25?
On August 08 2013 13:21 scott31337 wrote:
Cables rarely fail, it's probably the logic board.
My first build killed two IDE cables somehow.
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Heh I troubleshooted a bad IDE cable during a Windows XP install back in the day. That's how far I go back :p
Initially thought it was the RAM (or a bad ISO burn), but the true culprit was the old/frayed IDE cable on the CD-ROM.
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IDE was a lot worse then SATA, 40/80? wires in theory - I did not say they did not fail, I said it's a rarity from my work - I swap to test, but it's a rarity.
Sorry I should not have deleted my edit. Said the cable was the cheaper option, but removed it. Did not expect to see so much rebuttal on cable, espically IDE based.
BUY THE CABLE AND HOPE IT WORKS - it's the cheaper alternative.
edit: See a lot of complaints on apple forums and replacement cable fixes or get USB/SATA converter
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/2648100?start=15&tstart=0
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On August 08 2013 11:05 scott31337 wrote:
Grobyc when you say you believe it completes POST just fine, do you hear the HDD grinding like it's actually loading Windows with no video? Get the audio tones?
If you are 100% sure of that, you might just be up a creek. If you are not, I usually do the "Remove all the RAM" and make sure I get the no RAM Post beeps, if that does not happen, It usually is toast. (Can always reseat CPU, but that rarely fixes the issue)
Yes that is correct, I was able to hear the HDD grinding like it was booting up normally. I didn't get any audio tones whatsoever though.
I've just done as you suggested and taken out all the RAM to see if I get the standard beeps and I did. I only put the first stick back in however and it booted up normally! I'm just playing around with the other sticks to find out which stick was bad. I guess it was bad RAM o.o
Thanks!
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Awesome Grobyc, we usually call that the "DIMM Swap shuffle" - but I am glad you found your culprit.
GG
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Haha what's weird is I moved the allegedly bad stick of RAM that caused it to not boot and tried it in another DIMM and it worked fine. So I basically just swapped DIMM slots 3 (this one being the "bad stick/slot) and 4 and now it all works lol. Boots up like normal with video and all ^^
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You will probably lose your dual channel in that configuration, what size memory chips are these? It may be worth it only going two anyway.
Edit: Yes, that slot could be bad
Computers are weird, job security for me though.
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On August 03 2013 09:43 scott31337 wrote:
Can you provide more information, Alabasen?
MB/Windows version/etc?
I live in the US, If you want to call me, PM me. I've done this work since 1984.
I'm going to restore my Lenovo T530 to factory settings in November when I can legally reinstall Microsoft University 2010. Thank you for the offer and assistance, and I still might need it later.
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On August 08 2013 15:30 scott31337 wrote:You will probably lose your dual channel in that configuration, what size memory chips are these? It may be worth it only going two anyway. Edit: Yes, that slot could be bad Computers are weird, job security for me though.
The chips in DIMMs 3 & 4 were 512MB DDR2, DIMMs 1 & 2 were 1GB chips, 3GB total. If there's continued problems I might just end up using the first two 1GB sticks, but I'll just wait and see first. Seems to be running fine so far. Thanks
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Okay so...
lately it's hot as shit around here.
And because of that (I am certain it is because of that, I have tested it) my PC keeps stuttering, rubberbanding, and occasionally crashing when I play most games.
The only ones that still work are really old games that are light on the hardware (such as heroes3 for example)
Is there something I can do to help this apart from "wait until winter is coming"?
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On August 09 2013 00:48 Dandel Ion wrote:
Okay so...
lately it's hot as shit around here.
And because of that (I am certain it is because of that, I have tested it) my PC keeps stuttering, rubberbanding, and occasionally crashing when I play most games.
The only ones that still work are really old games that are light on the hardware (such as heroes3 for example)
Is there something I can do to help this apart from "wait until winter is coming"?
Clean the computer by blowing it out with compressed air.
If you get a temp measuring program like CPUID hardware monitor you can work out what is overheating and give it specific attention such as replacing the CPU cooler.
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United Kingdom20343 Posts
Check your CPU/GPU temperatures, I don't know how much ambients change for you, but here we heat the house to around 20c in winter and peak around 30 indoors in summer, and 10c difference is very little on the scale of hardware temperatures, unless you were already too hot in the first place and it's just enough to push you over the edge
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Twitch in 1080p simply doesn't work in EU (anymore?) no matter how good your broadband is? There is always lag and stuttering nowadays.
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They are trying to get more data centers in Europe, it's a work in progress
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United Kingdom20343 Posts
On August 09 2013 04:24 d00p wrote:
Twitch in 1080p simply doesn't work in EU (anymore?) no matter how good your broadband is? There is always lag and stuttering nowadays.
Not sure if this is a statement or a question, but it works as both, and if the latter, you answered yourself 
As said, it'll be fixed soon. Maybe. Hopefully.
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I bought a 2 pack of 8GB sticks of Crucial Ballistix DDR3-1600 RAM for my new rig. Board is an Asrock Z87 Extreme 4. I can use 1 stick in any slot and get it to post and then boot windows just fine everything functional. When I try to use a 2nd stick, Windows freezes on the loading screen and wont boot. I can get into the BIOS and it recognizes the RAM fine. At first I thought it was just a bad stick, but i returned the set to the store and got a new set..and it still is the same exact problem. Is this a case probably of incompatible RAM? I checked the boards memory list and the sticks were not on it. I am going to try a new brand of RAM on the supported list, but if that doesnt work..is this probably a bad board? Nothing else seems to be a problem.
FYI I have played around with trying different slots and combinations and no help.
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Did you enable the XMP profile that comes with the sticks in the BIOS/UEFI? It sets the speed and custom timings and voltage specific to your memory kit. 1600 MHz happens to be the current default speed for things so you might not have noticed that you should do that. There might also be more than one XMP profile, so try the other if that's the case.
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I want to install Cyanogenmod on my Galaxy s4. It is my first android device (love it btw) and I'm not really familiar with rooting and installing custom roms, yet.
When looking at the site of CM I see a lot of different versions for each different carrier version of the GS4. I've got an i9505 version which isn't from any carrier (just a phone without contract so I could use my old SIM card). Which one do I take? Does it even matter? I think I need this one, though I'm not sure enough to do it: Galaxy S4 (International LTE)
I hope someone can help me Thx!
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EPT
