EPT![[image loading]](http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt177/betaben/Library-5867.jpg)
Brugge, a fairy-tail city of hitmen and dwarves. Driving there early in the morning, the I was happy to find car parks offering free parking all day. Not really the best point to start on when visiting a one of the nicest medieval towns in Europe, but if you're driving, finding a good place is a godsend. The second thing I noticed as I consulted the nearby towns folk ("really? free? all day?") was that everyone in Belgium speaks English pretty well, even if they modestly say "only a luttle bit".
I'm on a budget, so I didn't go into most places; I also didn't read the important historical backgrounds of the buildings; I just walked around.
The refreshing thing I found out about Brugge is that there is not an "old quarter", as most of the town is as it was 500 years ago when it enjoyed prosperity as one of the world's best centre for weaving. The walled area is a Unesco World heritage site, and as you walk from the centre to the wall, you'll find normal people living in the age old streets. True, it is entirely supported by the tourist industry and most of the touristy center has a continental cafe on every corner, but that doesn't really detract from the ambience.
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Brugge is infused with a pleasant quantity of waterways, such that they become a endearing addition to the town, rather than a required characteristic. Most have tourist boats zipping down them, some are blessed with lazy swans. It's 'The Venice of the North'! Along with Amsterdam, Stockholm, and some other towns which are the other Venices. (according to wikipedia, even Birmingham!?!)
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I arrived early on a rainy morning, so there were not many tourists. There are quite a few "notable buildings" to go and look at, I planned a route to get to most of them, but I think you could see half of them and not be disappointed; it depends when your boredom level for seeing yet another 600 year old significant building is exceeded.
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There are two prominent town squares, Markt and Burg. The first is dominated by the 12th Century belfry which looks down onto a large central statue of -er- a famous Belgian, and the square itself is lined with grand medieval houses. Pity for me there were some big ugly tents on it. A trip up the belfry is about 8 euros, 300 odd steps up a tight spiral stair, and worth it for a panoramic view of the town. Hidden up the tower is a huge barrel-organ device which rings the bells in order. which I'm going to buy that when I'm rich.
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On Burg, there's a large palace and the "Basilica of the Holy Blood" which contains some of Jesus's blood. We should get the cloning guys onto that. they should make ten jesuses and introduce them to each other on Jerry Springer.
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I took an excursion out to the Northwest wall which was worth it just to get free of the growing tourist swarm, and found a couple of small local bars underneath a large windmill which served good Belgian beer. (although I only had one as I needed to drive later that day.) In retrospect, it would have been good to stop there overnight so as to appreciate the beer more.
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One the way back from the windmills, as my legs aching slightly from the walking and the climbing, I made a small detour to St Waldberg's church.
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I wasn't expecting much after reaching my quaintness limit, but I'm glad I went. Wearily climbing the steps, I was greeted by a benevolent old man; after a few friendly words, he proceeded to amble slowly back into the pearl-white interior of the church, which revealed itself to be tardis-like in proportions compared to the building front, opera music resounding round him as he went. I felt as if he was going to die that day, it was so cinematic; I sat down for a good half an hour in the cool white opera.
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As a cautionary story, as I left Brugge later that day my GPS system went mad, directing me the wrong way down bypasses and being constantly confused. After quite a fraught journey out of the city including driving on the wrong side of the road and the wrong way up one way streets, I eventually remebered that the GPS was still on 'pedestrian mode' - it thought I was walking. Never use pedestrian mode!
