EPTComputer Build Resource Thread - Page 359
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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. | ||
Womwomwom
5930 Posts
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EtherealDeath
United States8366 Posts
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Womwomwom
5930 Posts
Hardocp did some tests with GTX480 SLI with Metro 2033. It'll basically look and perform the same. | ||
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EtherealDeath
United States8366 Posts
MB: MSI P67A-G45 Price w/ CPU CPU: i5-2500k $332.98 with motherboard GPU: GTX 560 Ti OC $184.99 RAM: GSkill 8gb $64.99 HDD: Samsung f3 1tb $64.99 Case: Rosewill Destroyer $49.99 PSU: XFX 650W $59.99 CD/DVD: Some random LiteOn $18.99 Wireless: Some Rosewill $24.99 Total: $801.91 | ||
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Womwomwom
5930 Posts
Is there a reason why you want SLI - I thought you already had the cards? Why don't you just buy a GTX560 Ti like this or overclock it to hell yourself? This card will basically get dangerously close to the performance of your dual GTX460 SLI while having none of the problems you get from a dual GPU system - its performance is basically a GTX570/GTX480 with more power draw, noise, driver issues, heat, etc. Also those are GTX460 SE cards. They suck. | ||
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EtherealDeath
United States8366 Posts
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On June 21 2011 23:17 Womwomwom wrote: Don't use a Green drive for your operating system. They're only there for cheap data storage. Western Digital Caviar Blue WD10EALX or Samsung F3 1TB Spinpoint are your best options if you want to put your OS on a mechanical drive. Is there a reason why you want SLI - I thought you already had the cards? Why don't you just buy a GTX560 Ti like this or overclock it to hell yourself? This card will basically get dangerously close to the performance of your dual GTX460 SLI while having none of the problems you get from a dual GPU system - its performance is basically a GTX570/GTX480 with more power draw, noise, driver issues, heat, etc. Worse, he's looking at SE SLI, which is terrible. 1GB 460 normal is just above the 570/480 performance point. SE will be worse. http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Gainward/GeForce_GTX_460_SE/12.html | ||
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Womwomwom
5930 Posts
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EtherealDeath
United States8366 Posts
Oh, didnt realize the 460 SE sli was that much worse than the normal 460 1gb. | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
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Disregard
China10252 Posts
2500K + Biostar TZ68A : $310 http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.658273 2500K + MSI P67A-G45 : $323 http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.660241 edit: Labels | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
SLI is also a headache if you play games with bad scaling. I'm using regular 460 1GBs in SLI, OCed to 763, and I only tolerate the heat and noise because I love fiddling with stuff for no good reason. If nothing else, get the 768mb 460's and SLI those, at least they're faster, and with 2 of them for extra video RAM, you'll get pretty hot performance if you aren't doing something crazy with resolution. Certainly compared to the SE. Bear in mind, the 768mb is still a bit slower than the 1GB due to some bandwidth stuff. | ||
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Disregard
China10252 Posts
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Disregard
China10252 Posts
And of course I dont have a floppy drive... Who does nowadays? :/ | ||
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FabledIntegral
United States9232 Posts
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XenOmega
Canada2822 Posts
There's a black screen with weird characters (i doubt its a windows code or anything. I'll copy it if you feel its needed). When i press 'enter' the computer loads normally. What could cause this? Since I've 'loaded optimized' in the bios, it started showing off. The reason why i loaded optimized was that i wanted to remove the OC from my I5. Felt it was unnecessary right now for SC2 and will only OC when BF3 comes out  | ||
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Habel
United States123 Posts
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Habel
United States123 Posts
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djcube
United States985 Posts
Also, does anyone have experience with OS re-installation (Windows 7) on notebooks? I have a W7 install image burned on a DVD that I used for my desktop. Can I just use that to do a new, clean install on the SSD with the cd-key from my notebook? | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
On June 22 2011 03:19 FabledIntegral wrote: So I just moved into my new place, and unfortunately, I can't get a direct connection to my desktop, so I'm going to have to go wireless. Is it better to get one of those USB adapter connections, or buy an actual wireless card to go inside your desktop? I feel like the latter is overall more useful and less of a hassle. I just want to make sure I have a STRONG connection, even if it means shelling out a little bit more money. But at the same time, cheaper is better... All possible interfaces: USB2.0, PCI, and PCIe 1x should be fast enough unless you're looking to max out an 802.11n connection with 4x4 antennas. That part should be mostly irrelevant. You're just looking with something with hopefully non-buggy drivers and firmware (though good luck with that, on consumer networking gear lol). I'd just go on amazon or newegg or whatever and search for a newer device with very high ratings and with comments that it works on your operating system (Win7 64-bit?). Unless you need the signal to go through floors, through thick walls, or over long distances, it generally won't matter what device you get in terms of the signal strength as the signal will be good enough. I mean, plenty of laptops work fine with those internal wireless adapters buried inside the chassis. However, in the circumstance where this will make a difference, it would be better to have a device with antennas that can be moved around. Ideally you don't want antennas stiffly attached to the back of your computer case where potentially the signal is being blocked by the case and maybe in an area with bad multipath fading. If you have external antennas that can be moved around, moving them around to a better spot can possibly make a significant difference in the connection. | ||
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