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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
Wait until tonight or tomorrow to make your purchase since a new sale is coming up. @Stoids Get the V2 variant: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139020 Not sure why people are still considering the original TX650 when the V2 is superior at the same price point -.- | ||
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scarymeerkat
Canada107 Posts
On June 09 2011 05:53 JingleHell wrote: The friend that "knows computers" or "works at a computer store", or worse, the "family member that works in IT" is usually the last person you want to listen to, because they're thinking shit grade PSU's that get slapped in prebuilts, as opposed to good equipment. Okay.  I think you're probably right about that. However, he has built several computers (quite successfully) in his time, but I'm not sure if this gives his opinion that much merit. Maybe he's been overdoing it with PSUs forever. | ||
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FabledIntegral
United States9232 Posts
EDIT: Note SE though. | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/102?vs=289 i3 2100 beats your chosen AMD chip in anything not requiring 4 cores. Unless you plan to stream or do heavy video encoding, it's a better choice, despite less cores, in the same price range. If you want to spend a little more for 4 cores to do those things, an i5 2400 for $50 more will eat the AMD chip alive on those tasks. Granted, the mobo has to be factored in as a slight increase in cost as well, but it's well worth it. Go less overkill on the PSU and you can probably be within ~$50-75 of that price range with much more computer, and be on a much newer socket. Mind you, if you do want to stream/encode, and you really can't raise the price any, the AMD is a better choice than the i3. It's just that there's so much better available for so little more cost. | ||
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Stoids
United States636 Posts
On June 09 2011 06:00 JingleHell wrote: @stoids http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/102?vs=289 i3 2100 beats your chosen AMD chip in anything not requiring 4 cores. Unless you plan to stream or do heavy video encoding, it's a better choice, despite less cores, in the same price range. If you want to spend a little more for 4 cores to do those things, an i5 2400 for $50 more will eat the AMD chip alive on those tasks. Granted, the mobo has to be factored in as a slight increase in cost as well, but it's well worth it. Go less overkill on the PSU and you can probably be within ~$50-75 of that price range with much more computer, and be on a much newer socket. Do you have specific Newegg links I can check out for those? Just want to make sure have correct configuration/compatibility. If I make the switch on the CPU/Mobo are there other suggestions in my build? For the record I don't plan on streaming/encoding. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
Any H61, H67, P67, or Z68 motherboard will do. Example: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157236 | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
i5 2400 and mobo. http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.660352 i3 2100 and mobo under $200. skyR ninja's yet again. And yeah, if you're not doing threading intensive tasks, you're on roughly the same price point for better performance with the Intel CPU, and equal or better upgrade options. | ||
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Stoids
United States636 Posts
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
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objection99
United States4 Posts
CPU: Intel Core i5 760 Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H55-USB3 LGA 1156 RAM: Corsair Dominator 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 Video card: Sparkle GTX 460 Case: Antec 300 Hard Drive: Western Digital 640 GB Power Supply: Antec EA750W However, when i got all the parts together there has been this notable clicking sound coming from my computer and it would make it blue screen and shut off without any warning. I've heard from friends that the motherboard i got is not so good and thus i was wondering what parts i should replace or whether i should just start all over again from scratch. If the answer is the latter then my answers to the questions are: -I'm willing to spend $2000 on the next computer. -My resolution is 1980x1080. -I'm using this computer mainly for gaming and streaming. -My upgrade cycle will be about 2-3 years. -I plan on building it as soon as I can. To answer more directly: Within 2-3 weeks. -I have no plans to overclock, I have Windows 7, so an OS is not necessary and I don't plan to add a 2nd GPU. -Lastly I'm going to be buying my parts from newegg.com. | ||
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Stoids
United States636 Posts
+ Show Spoiler + CPU + Mobo: $285 http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.660659 Memory: $70 http://www.newegg.com/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=ShellShocker-_-20-231-428-_-06082011_3 GPU: $230 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102928&cm_re=6950-_-14-102-928-_-Product PSU: $55 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207012 Case: $120 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129097&cm_sp=Cat_Computer_Cases-_-Product_Spotlight-_-11-129-097 HD/SSD: $60 + $125 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148697 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227550 DVD: $21 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204 Price: $966 How are we looking now? | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
Sapphire 6950 2GB, $230 After rebate. Looks pretty solid though, aside from that. More PC for equal or less cash. That's the TL way. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
What is the stop code on the blue screen? Have you checked the SMART values of your harddrive using the manufacturer's software, HD Tune, or CrystalDisk? Clicking is often indication of harddrive failure. Are you returning all these parts or is it too late? It's a very poorly optimized configuration. | ||
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Stoids
United States636 Posts
On June 09 2011 06:14 JingleHell wrote: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102928&cm_re=6950-_-14-102-928-_-Product Sapphire 6950 2GB, $230 After rebate. Looks pretty solid though, aside from that. More PC for equal or less cash. That's the TL way. Updated it all. Appreciate the help from you and sky. I'm not scared of consulting with people far more knowledgeable. Going to order today, think I'm good to go? | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On June 09 2011 06:16 skyR wrote: @objection99 What is the stop code on the blue screen? Have you checked the SMART values of your harddrive using the manufacturer's software, HD Tune, or CrystalDisk? Clicking is often indication of harddrive failure. Are you returning all these parts or is it too late? It's a very poorly optimized configuration. To be fair, his HDD and Case aren't horrendous. | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On June 09 2011 06:17 Stoids wrote: Updated it all. Appreciate the help from you and sky. I'm not scared of consulting with people far more knowledgeable. Going to order today, think I'm good to go? Well, I'll defer to skyR for the green light, but I would say it's as tight as it's going to get without hurting performance. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
Not sure if you are factoring in mail in rebates or not but the Crucial M4 is faster for a less expensive upfront price (and arguably more reliable): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148441 | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On June 09 2011 06:19 skyR wrote: @Stoids Not sure if you are factoring in mail in rebates or not but the Crucial M4 is faster for a less expensive upfront price (and arguably more reliable): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148441 And that's why I defer... | ||
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Stoids
United States636 Posts
On June 09 2011 06:19 skyR wrote: @Stoids Not sure if you are factoring in mail in rebates or not but the Crucial M4 is faster for a less expensive upfront price (and arguably more reliable): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148441 Definitely will do rebates. SSD was the place I was scratching my head the most, so thanks for suggestion. With that change do you give the green light? :D | ||
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objection99
United States4 Posts
On June 09 2011 06:16 skyR wrote: @objection99 What is the stop code on the blue screen? Have you checked the SMART values of your harddrive using the manufacturer's software, HD Tune, or CrystalDisk? Clicking is often indication of harddrive failure. Are you returning all these parts or is it too late? It's a very poorly optimized configuration. There's no way for me to currently check the stop code on the blue screen, my computer now refuses to turn on I'm typing this post on a laptop, and no i haven't checked on the SMART value nor do I know what it is. Its too late to return the parts, like i said in my above post, if none of these parts are any good I'm willing to start over. | ||
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