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Hackintoshin' it. Building the computer, tweaking and overclocking the BIOS, installing OS X, drivers, and boot manager
If he can do this, then you can build a freaking Mac clone:
edit: New Content
I am appending an i7 /Snow Leopard guide at the end. It will also include an SL install for this same initial motherboard/hardware setup.
Builing a system is still pretty much identical. Sure, one might change the motherboard or whatnot with the i7s, but it is 99% the same. If, for some reason, my parts list meets with construction difficulties, post in the thread. I am REALLY occupied with my master's work right now, but I still check TL every 3-4 days.
Props:
Everything I know about OSx86 and Hackintoshes I know because of http://insanelymac.com and http://netkas.org. Big thanks to the Chameleon team who makes the bootloader possible.
A short blurb about me. I have run my own computer business for the last 3 years now. I build and repair computers. I have built somewhere in the neighborhood of about 300 computers. I recently started on hackintoshes and have built about 20ish of them.
I just realized that some may not know what this even is. A hackintosh is a computer with PC hardware that runs Apple's OS X Leopard. In this case, Leopard 10.5.7, the most recent version. This guide will allow you to use Apple update and have full functionality within OS X, including dual monitors, and the ability to dual-boot your system with Windows, Linux, or whatever OS you might be dreaming of.
This particular computer, with the overclock, outperforms any stock speed computer on the market. The video card is quite good and you will 100% will be able to play SC2 at max everything.
Tools:
You don't need much, but you probably do not want to build this on a carpet. Be somewhat aware of static and try to touch metal (such as the case) before handling the components.
+ Show Spoiler +Static gives me an excuse to wear my tevas! The red handled screwdriver is magnetic tipped. That can be pretty useful, just don't drag it all over the components. Some people buy the OS.
Materials:
I have included links to each part in the spoiler. You can change any of those parts, except the motherboard and video card, and still use my drive package for OS X. I highly recommend sticking with my motherboard selection. You can use a variety of different video cards with OS X. The HD4870 1GB is simply a great price for amazing performance. It will play any game on max or very close to max settings at 1920x1200.
You can use any Core 2 Duo or Core 2 Quad processor instead of the Q9550 that I recommend. The Q9550 is what I use when building systems for graphic designers, musicians, architects, etc. It is a very beefy quad-core that overclocks phenomenally.
This computer is equivalent to Mac Pro that costs ~$2,000+tax. The only real difference between the two motherboard choices is that the UD3LR supports RAID, hence the "R". RAID allows multiple HDDs to be configured in RAID 0 for faster performance, or in RAID 1/5/10 for differing degrees of data redundancy.
Hardware Costs: ~$985
+ Show Spoiler +
The Setup:
First, just unwrap everything and lay all of the components out on table or wherever you will be building the computer.
Lets spend a few minutes acquainting ourselves with some of the components.
Motherboard:
Note the four DDR2 RAM slots to the upper right. These are color coded so that you know what channels to use for dual-channel mode. Since we will be populating all four slots we do not really need to worry about this, but it helps to know. If you were only going to use 2 channels, say 2x2GB sticks then you would want to use either both yellow channels or both red ones.
Moving down we have the PCI-E x16 slot. That is the blue slot for a video card. The small white ones are PCI-E x1 and the longer white ones are PCI. A fun fact is that you can put any PCI-E device into any sized PCI-E slot, provided that it meets the minimum size. Thus, you could put a PCI-E x1 TV tuner card into the x16 slot if you did not have room for it elsewhere. Obviously, this is not a problem with this motherboard.
Obviously the CPU goes under that cover, and there are two places that the power supply plugs into the motherboard. One is on the top left, the other is to the right of the RAM slots. The computer will not POST without both of those plugged in.
Power supply:
A lot of people are power supply snobs, but there is some merit to buying brand name and expensive power supplies. All 550W PSUs, or any wattage PSU, are not created equal. One of the best signs of a quality PSU is the 12V rail. The more amps you have on that 12V rail the better the video card you will be able to run in your machine. A second easy way to grade a PSU is weight. Higher quality components weight more, so heavier power supplies are normally superior to lighter ones. These are both pretty general methods, but it is perfectly adequate level of understanding for a novice.
Every video card, assuming it is a higher-end card, will have somewhere in its specs what the minimum 12v wattage or 12v amps are that it needs to run correctly. You do not want to skimp on these requirements. Anything over 30 amps will work for our video card. I would recommend getting at least 36 amps though.
The only way to really know if a power supply is of superior quality is to read reviews that test it or to do extensive (and expensive) tests yourself.
Heatsink:
Size does matter. Is anyone surprised that tossing away that crappy Intel heatsink allows me to overclock to 3.7GHz+ without exceeding Intel heat specifications?
Case:
You can use any case (Mid-Tower ATX, or Full-Tower ATX), I just happen to like this one. It is roomy and has an easy to use tool-less design. Meaning that it does not take a bunch of screws to hold all of the parts in. It also has USB, sound, Firewire, and eSATA conveniently located at the top of the case.
Part I: Construction
CPU Installation
Unwrap the motherboard and place it on top of something that will not damage the base of it. I just use the motherboard box. Undo the lever that locks the CPU socket down. You can leave the black plastic cap on.
Now, gently, place the CPU in the socket. It only fits one way because of those twin cutouts. Note the below picture.
It should plop right in, no need to push or force anything at this point. Next you drop the top back down on the CPU and lock it in place with the lever again. This will cause that black plastic shield to pop off. You do need to exert a little bit of pressure to lock the CPU in. As long as you lined up the CPU correctly you will not have a problem.
RAM Installation:
This is pretty straight-forward. The DMMs have off-centered slots in them to prevent incorrect insertion. Just line up the slots and push. Hard. You should hear two snaps for each stick. I usually support the motherboard from underneath when I give the RAM sticks the final hard push. You need to make sure the RAM is in all of the way. The computer will not POST if it is loose.
Heatsink Installation:
Next, we will apply some thermal paste. This comes with the heatsink. You do not want to apply too much, or too little ;p Just follow the pic.
Then we will install the heatsink. The heatsink that I selected needs some assembly. It comes with picture directions that are more than adequate, just bear in mind that the screw is not broken - you need to screw counterclockwise for some parts of the assembly.
Make sure you attach the sticky black rubber washers likes so:
Once you have the basic assembly done then we are ready to mount it onto the CPU. You want the fan oriented closest to the RAM. The fan blows, not sucks, the air, so this positioning allows it to blow hot air towards the back of the case and then the rear case fan sucks it out.
Like so:
After you orient the heatsink, holding and the motherboard together, flip the motherboard upside down and rest it on top of the heatsink. We need to screw in the mounting mechanism that holds the heatsink in place.
Use the nifty tool that comes in the box to screw the nuts down. -.-
Next, install the power supply. This needs 4 screws. I don't see how you could mess it up. The cords go inside the case.
Alright, well that is the heart of the computer. Lets mount the motherboard in the case!
Case Installation:
Install the metal risers that come with the case. Yours will probably be brass, not steel like mine. I'm just that special.
Make sure you install the rear I/O panel at this time. You don't want to have to re-do the screws because you are an impatient moron.
There are only the top four shown in that picture, but you will screw 6 of them in total. Just refer to the motherboard for the proper positioning. Also, when moving the motherboard around you can just grab it by the CPU fan. It is a nifty handle.
Wiring Fun
I usually attach as many wires as I can outside of the case. You definitely want to at least attach the 4-pin power supply cord to the upper left of the motherboard. The CPU fan tends to get in the way with most cases.
A lot of people are intimidated by the wiring for the front panel. All of those thin wires go to this panel on the very bottom right. Above it we see the green IDE port, to the left we see some USB ports. Above the IDE port you see the SATA ports.
If you have decent eyesight you will notice that the pins have a key just below them. The key designates the red pins as PWR (power), the green as RES (reset), the blue as HD (HDD activity signal), and the green as the power LED for the system.
That is all well and good, but it is not quite that easy since there is a positive and negative for each one of these. The key is to make sure that the writing that is on each of the wires faces away from the middle of the front panel connector. So, the PWR wires should have their writing closest to the green IDE port. The power LEDs do not actually matter. Just plug those two in willy nilly.
The HD and RES should have their wire's writing facing the bottom of the motherboard. If this is not clear enough then I can get a pic for you guys.
Screw that Mother@#*$!
Now install the motherboard and screw it down into place. Just use three fingers on the screwdriver to avoid over-tightening and damaging the motherboard.
Plug in th USB in the yellow USB slot. Notice that it only fits one way due to a missing pin. Do the same with the HD Audio cord. Again, it only fits one way due to pins.
I am about to plug in the HD Audio cord:
Video Card:
First plug in the two 6-pin PCI-E power cables.
Then remove the rear clips so the video card can fit out the back.
Firmly seat the video card and either screw or clip it into place. Do the same for any other PCI/PCI-E x1 add-on cards that you have.
Hard Drive:
Pull out a few of the hard drive trays to make some room and run a yellow SATA cable and power cable under the cage. Insert the HDD into the tray, no screws needed, and then attache the cables. The SATA cable and power cord have an L shaped head, so they only can be plugged in one way.
The SATA cord should be plugged into port 0 on the motherboard.
DVD Drive:
You need to remove the front of the case to install this. Just put your hand at the bottom of the case front and pull out. It can take a bit of muscle to get started.
Once the front is off slide in the DVD Drive and secure it in place using the nifty tool-less locks.
Pop out the corresponding false front from the case front and then re-attach the case front to the case. Make sure you get all 6 of the anchor points firmly attached.
Almost Done!
At this point your computer should look something like this:
I did not use a 4870 for this build since the customer did not need quite that much graphical power.
Now just make sure that all of the fans are plugged in, including the CPU fan. The fan headers on this motherboard are white. You will probably need to use a 3-pin fan to 4-pin molex adapter for the front fan. No worries, one is currently on the side panel fan. The side panel fan can instead be plugged directly into the motherboard, on the right, just above the video card.
That is it. See how easy it is to build a computer? With a lot of practice it can be done very very quickly. It takes me less than 30 minutes to assemble a complete computer and shove in an install disc.
*Note* OS X only allows 4GBs of RAM during installation, so do not have 8GBs of sticks plugged in when you start the install.
Recycle!
Sort your recyclables and your garbage. I'm not a slob, all that mess was from today.
Part II: BIOS settings and Overclocking
Assuming the computer turns on when you press the power button, start pressing delete rapidly to enter the BIOS.
The first thing you want to do is update the BIOS to the most advanced version. Get the BIOS from here:
http://www.gigabyte.us/Search/Search_List.aspx?Keyword=ep45-ud3l&SearchType=Driver
Select your model and then click on BIOS on the upper left. I would avoid the beta BIOS for now, so choose F4 for EP45-UD3L and F5 for EP45-UD3LR. Download the file, unrar it and put it on a flash stick.
At the main BIOS window, on your new computer, press F8, when the flashdrive is plugged in, to start the BIOS update. Follow the prompts and DO NOT accidentally turn off the computer during the process. If your house has power problems then do no even try this.
Press F8 at this screen:
Select the HDD (flash drive) and scroll for the file. If you do not change the default name then it will be EP45UD3L.F4
+ Show Spoiler +
After the BIOS update is done, reboot the computer, and re-enter the BIOS with delete. Under the M.I.T menu, in the upper left, you will change the following values:
M.I.T. Menu
1 of 3:
+ Show Spoiler +
1. Change Extreme Memory Profile to "Disabled"
2. Performance Enhance to Standard
3. CPU Host Clock Control to "Enabled"
4. CPU Host Freq to 424
5. PCI E Freq to "100"
6. G Mch Latch to "333"
7. System Memory Multi to "2.40B"
2 of 3:
+ Show Spoiler +
1. Load-Line Calibration to "Enabled"
2. CPU Vcore to 1.3625 (this is the largest variable. We will go over this more during stability testing)
3. CPU Term 1.4
4. CPU PLL 1.65
3 of 3:
+ Show Spoiler +
1. MCH Core 1.2
2. ICH I/O 1.69
3. ICH Core 1.2
4. DRAM 2.1V
Standard CMOS Features:
+ Show Spoiler +
1. disable Drive A
Advanced tab:
+ Show Spoiler +
1. Change the boot order to CDROM/HDD/Disabled
Integrated Peripherals:
+ Show Spoiler +
1. Enable AHCI (You cannot install OS X, or boot into it, without this!)
2. USB Mouse Support to Enabled
Save the BIOS settings:
Press F11 and name the profile so you do not need to do this again.
+ Show Spoiler +
Remember - You CANNOT install OS X with 8GBs of RAM installed in the computer. Reduce it to 4GBs before starting this next step.
Now we need to burn a Boot-132 CD. Basically this CD contains the drivers needed to nurse the OS X installation along until you can install the real drivers. It also allows the booting of the retail DVD.
DL this, unzip it, and burn as an image onto a blank CD:
http://www.filesavr.com/genericiso
Boot 132 loading:
Boot 132 first screen:
You press enter here. That's it. Really.
Boot 132 second screen:
Here you want to eject the Boot-132 CD and insert the retail DVD. Wait about 20 seconds and then press enter. 9F is the default system ID for IDE DVD drives. If you use a SATA Drive it will be a different number, but it will automatically default to it.
Your primary HDD has a system ID of 80, with the secondary being 81, etc. We will be using that later.
Getting ready to start the OS X Install disc:
After this screen you should proceed to the spinning Mac icon, give it a few minutes and then this should pop up:
Select your language and agree to their ToS, etc.
Disk Utility:
Installing!
After it finishes installing you will have to reboot your computer manually. You will want to reset the computer and then eject the retail DVD and replace it with the Boot-132 disc. The boot-132 CD will load and you press enter once, just as before. This time type "80", press enter, and then enter again. OS X will start booting. You will then setup your keyboard, username, etc. Once you boot into your desktop download and unzip these files to your desktop:
http://www.filesavr.com/mobshackintoshstuff
Driver Installation:
1. A: open up Universal OSx86 Installer. Check the following boxes and hit install.
B: hit install again.
2. Now open OSx86 Tools and check all boxes and run the commands. That will take about 6-7 minutes to finish. Reboot. The computer will not fully turn off, so give it a full 10-15 minutes before manually resetting it. These drivers that we just installed will make it so you don't have to do that anymore.
3. Turn back on the computer. Now you should boot into the desktop normally. Go to the Apple sign in the top left and auto-update. Install any and all updates. Reboot.
4 Repeat steps 1 and 2 again. You need to re-install the drivers after updating to the major patches. We did it initially because otherwise you might have issues with the computer working properly.
5. *UPDATE* You no longer need to install either of these files, so long as you update to 10.5.7 or 10.5.8 before you install the video card driver. Just proceed straight to step 6 after rebooting from updates. Then install the radeon_hd_48x0 driver package and install the ATY_motmot.kext. The package is just a regular installer, but the kext needs to be installed with Universal OSx86. Open up Universal OSx86 and check the box for custom kext and then browse to the file. Make sure the proper HDD is selected at the top of the installer.
6. Now reboot, then install the last package, Enabler_for_Nvidia etc. Reboot.
7. That does it for the drivers. The only thing left to do is access the system preferences panel (in the dock) and go to energy settings and turn off sleep mode. The 4870 driver does not support sleep yet. If you are using a different video card test sleep and see if it works.
8. While in the system preferences panel also assign the sound to use "internal speakers" for sound out. You now have a fully functional MacPro Clone.
Dual Booting:
Unhook the Mac drive. Then install the OS just like you normally would. For windows just leave your secondary HDD hooked up and put the disk in. The BIOS is still set to auto-boot of the disk and the windows installer should start. Install drivers using the disc that comes with the motherboard. Just pop it in, wait for it to auto-start, then select the auto-install feature. Download the latest video driver from either ATI's website.
Now, hook up both HDDs again. Press F12 rapidly as soon right after you press the power button. Select Hard Drive, from the boot menu and then select the HDD that you installed OS X on. Run the Chamaleon 2 package installer. Reboot. You can triple boot, or quad boot, or whatever if you so desire. The process is the same as above.
Now you should be greeted with a screen like this at each boot:
Select which OS you want to enter by using the arrows on the keyboard and pressing enter. Now you are truly done! Good job!
Well, you should test for system stability with the overclock ;p
I use this program:
http://www.ocbase.com/perestroika_en/index.php?Download
Install this on your windows HDD. Disable the screen saver before running the program since they do not seem to interact well. You should run the program for at least 8 hours before concluding that your system is stable. Also, keep an eye on the temperature range over those 8 hours (the program provides a chart when you press stop) and make sure that the temperature did not exceed 68C.
I would also recommend using the windows built in RAM tester, again, overnight. type "memory" in the run bar and run in advanced mode.
If you have any questions please post in the guide or PM me.
Thanks!
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Snow Leopard Guide for the above hardware: (Thank BlackOSX for everything)
Download this Boot-132 CD:
http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?mq4y4jmgmyj
Download these support files:
http://www.filefactory.com/file/a07534f/n/Support_Files_for_Blackosx_SL_Install_v2_2_zip
Download a general PDF guide:
http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?tm0zjhoynzt
Update your BIOS: (re-enter old BIOS settings after the update)
http://www.gigabyte.us/Search/Search_List.aspx?Keyword=ep45-ud3l&SearchType=Driver
Suggested method:
Burn the Boot-132 CD to CD and boot off it. After it loads, same as before, eject the Boot-132 CD and insert a Snow Leopard retail DVD in the same drive. Press F5 to rescan the drives and then proceed to do a retail install.
I highly suggest doing a retail install instead of an upgrade install. I also suggest selecting "customize" during the install and deselecting the print drivers and language packages. It speeds up the install and reduces the chance of errors.
After you finish the basic install there are additional instructions within the boot CD and within the PDF guide. Post in the thread for specifics.
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Snow Leopard Guide for i7 processors (work in progress)
Hardware list:
i7 920
ASUS P6T Motherboard
DL SATA DVD/CD Burner
Any SATA HDD
Nvidia video card (6,7,8,9, or 2xxx generation)
9500GT 512MB recommended for light gaming/work:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500072&cm_re=9500gt-_-14-500-072-_-Product
9800GTX+ or 2xxx for serious gaming
or
ATI video card 48xx or 49xx generation for serious gaming
Cooler Master 590 Mid-Tower ATX Case
Cheap/high-quality 700W Power Supply
http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=10009502&prodlist=celebros
Cooler Master Hyper-212 Heatsink
12GB (6x2GB) DDR3-1600MHz
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820161305&cm_re=6gb_ddr3-1600-_-20-161-305-_-Product
BIOS setup:
Install Procedure:
Right now, the best way is to install via a USB stick built from a working Mac. I realize that leaves some of you in the cold and I will attempt to get a solid Boot-132 method operational. It will probably take me a month or two though =/
If you reallllly can't wait I can maybe seed a 6GB image file on bittorrent that can be just restored to an 8GB+ usb drive. I suppose I could also sell and ship install USB drives for whatever it costs to buy them, plus shipping, plus $10 for my time?
How to build a USB ASUS P6T install/boot drive:
PDF will be linked here
Finalizing the install:
PDF will be linked here
Video Card drivers:
EFI Studio:
This simply program allows you to create EFI string drivers for 6,7,8, and 9 series Nvidia cards, as well as some ATI cards.
http://www.mediafire.com/?xl19omzld9j
You simply select what card you have, copy the HEX string to clipboard, and then navigate to /Extra and drag the com.apple.Boot.plist to the desktop. Then open it using text edit and add the following lines: (make sure you do not separate any other key&string lines with your code)
<key>device-properties</key>
<string> insert HEX string here </string>
Then save the Boot.plist and paste it back into the /Extra folder and overwrite the old version.
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wooooooooooooooow, i've been looking for something like this!
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Nice guide  Building these is easier than most people think. People are amazed when i say i built a computer. I tell them its easier than putting together most pieces exercise equipment , but the dont believe me. Anyways do you know of an easy way to build a laptop? I have trouble with the casing part(well ive only tried it once.)
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Unfortunately the only laptops one can really build are the DIY models from OCZ and other manufacturers. All you do is drop in the CPU, RAM, and HDD. It does not really save much money =/
They main problem is the case. You could buy pretty much anymore motherboard you want on ebay, but good luck getting a case that fits it properly =/
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Thanks for this. I'm building a computer right now.
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On June 14 2009 08:26 maleorderbride wrote:
Unfortunately the only laptops one can really build are the DIY models from OCZ and other manufacturers. All you do is drop in the CPU, RAM, and HDD. It does not really save much money =/
They main problem is the case. You could buy pretty much anymore motherboard you want on ebay, but good luck getting a case that fits it properly =/
ha. Ya, I noticed. Well so much for building friends laptops. I just hate how they overprice laptops so much. Thanks for the feedback.
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do you know any laptops/netbooks that are fully compatible with mac os?
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On June 14 2009 08:52 Pakje wrote:
do you know any laptops/netbooks that are fully compatible with mac os?
All the netbooks are (MSI wind, dell mini, eeePC) really. Sometimes you need to change out your wireless card, but you just buy a different one on ebay. It takes about 7 minutes to change one out.
mostly you need to just look at specific components, like north/southbridge chipsets and the video card to determine compatibility.
If you settle on a particular one just google up a guide. They already exist for all the netbooks I have run across.
If you need a more powerful lappy, then the Dell XPS Studio 1340 is almost fully compatible. The wireless sometimes needs to be replaced and the bluetooth always does. I am not sure any complete newbie friendly guides exist for that model though.
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Oh hey nice.
Since glider got assraped by blizzard the only non-detectable bots are for macs now so I need to setup a dual boot asap
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Hehe, why waste all that power on OSX? (although it is dualboot)
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now you're making me want to go buy a new computer 
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Are there any potential incompatibilities or problems with updates on these machines? How stable are these? I'm quite interested in building one.
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Baltimore, USA22251 Posts
Very useful guide!
In desperate need of a new rig, will probably start collecting parts later this year/early next. This'll be the first I've built, so any common 'newbie mistake' warnings are appreciated. 
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On June 14 2009 15:06 EvilTeletubby wrote:Very useful guide! In desperate need of a new rig, will probably start collecting parts later this year/early next. This'll be the first I've built, so any common 'newbie mistake' warnings are appreciated.
Ditto. There's going to be a lot of "first-timers" trying this, so I think putting pretty much every smaller step would be a LOT of help.
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United States12607 Posts
This guide is bomb... <3 OS X
I'm excited for Snow Leopard!
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Thanks SoOOooOOo much for this guide ! I was looking for this !
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will it be possible to install osx on a couple of years old asus laptop (a7j)?
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On June 14 2009 12:47 SoLaR[i.C] wrote:
Are there any potential incompatibilities or problems with updates on these machines? How stable are these? I'm quite interested in building one.
Yes, there are certainly update incompatibilities. However, only with the major updates. Since 10.5.7 just came out a few weeks ago you should have many many months before 10.5.8 and you are not forced to DL it. I generally wait a bit and glance at the insanelymac.com forums to see how it affects my particular hardware.
Generally speaking only the sound and video card drivers get wiped out by major updates. Sound is about 20 seconds to re-install, while the video card is variable. Currently it takes about 3 minutes to install the video card driver, but if 10.5.8 changed core system files then it is likely the install method would change. Luckily the OSx86 community is incredibly devoted and generous with their time. Several programers, like netkas, seem to get new drivers working within a few days.
Also, I noticed that EVGA now lists drivers for the GTX285 on their website for OS X. That is a great precedent. Currently EVGA and Realtek are the only companies I know of that bother to support OS X, but I imagine that number will slowly increase. If major brands start writing installer packages for OS X then Hackintoshes will become very very user friendly.
On June 14 2009 18:51 StimD wrote:
will it be possible to install osx on a couple of years old asus laptop (a7j)?
Probably. Try googling your model with insanelymac.com. Also, you can try distros of OS X, such as kalyway and XxX Final. These have the advantage of including large amounts of drivers in the installer, but the disadvantage of being un-updateable. I only build updatable Macs, which is much more of a driver headache, but worth it in my opinion.
The only real kiss of death on laptop installs right now is the new Intel integrated 4500 video family. None of them work and most likely never will. So, older laptops, 1+ year old, or ones that do not use integrated video, are your best bet. You can still install OS X without having a video driver, but its like in windows were you get weird graphic distortion just from scrolling a webpage. Its pretty lame.
On June 14 2009 16:08 SoLaR[i.C] wrote:Show nested quote +On June 14 2009 15:06 EvilTeletubby wrote:Very useful guide! In desperate need of a new rig, will probably start collecting parts later this year/early next. This'll be the first I've built, so any common 'newbie mistake' warnings are appreciated. Ditto. There's going to be a lot of "first-timers" trying this, so I think putting pretty much every smaller step would be a LOT of help.
Are there any steps in particular that seem like I skimped too much? I realize I have not gotten to the OS X portion yet, but I think you will be pleasantly surprised how easy it is when someone just links you to files to DL and install ;p
I will get the BIOS and OS X install writeup done today. Just recovering from going to bed at 4:45AM very much not alone and then having to get up 4 hours later.
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updated OP. I am lacking another 2 pics thanks to my camera battery dying, but this will be uploaded tomorrow. All the info is there though!
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What do you do if you build it and it doesn't turn on?
The light on the motherboard turns on and is blue but none of the fans turn on and I'm pretty sure that all the wires are in correctly. I tried pulling the motherboard away from the case a bit to see if it isn't working because it is touching metal, but it still doesn't turn on.
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On June 18 2009 22:51 ghostWriter wrote:
What do you do if you build it and it doesn't turn on?
The light on the motherboard turns on and is blue but none of the fans turn on and I'm pretty sure that all the wires are in correctly. I tried pulling the motherboard away from the case a bit to see if it isn't working because it is touching metal, but it still doesn't turn on.
that happened to me while fixing a computer, ihave no experienc but computeres never fail!!
check the wiring!
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On June 18 2009 22:51 ghostWriter wrote:
What do you do if you build it and it doesn't turn on?
The light on the motherboard turns on and is blue but none of the fans turn on and I'm pretty sure that all the wires are in correctly. I tried pulling the motherboard away from the case a bit to see if it isn't working because it is touching metal, but it still doesn't turn on.
That is a pretty general failure to POST. It can be due to RAM, PSU, motherboard, and sometimes even a bad video card. Try testing it completely outside of the case as well. You can turn a computer on without a power button by just touching a screwdrive to the two power pins.
I am afraid systematically swapping out components is really the only logical thing to do to test the hardware=/
If you cannot do that then get a PC tech to do it. It should not take more than an hour to test all of the hardware in a computer.
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Just to add.
Most of the time POST failure will report a beep code even though it doesn't turn on.
google your mobo/bios's beep code; it will give you some idea on what went wrong.
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...and you can even play BroodWar on that machine?
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1. First, open up Universal OSx86 Installer. Check the following boxes:
***edit my camera battery is dead, pics coming tomorrow***
okay, so what boxes do we check??
&
4. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
does this mean we do these steps another time, it just confused me, lol
should be getting my custom build next week, here are the specs:
Motherboard EP45-UD3P (gigabyte)
CPU C2D E7400 2.8GHz (intel)
Memory 4GB 1066MHz
Video Card HD4870 1GB
HDD 2x 500GB HDDs
Case Coolermaster 690 (coolermaster)
PSU 700W (greatwall)
DVD Drive Lite-On 22x (lite-on)
this should be fine, right?
thanks
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hm will go snap a pic right now ;p
Yes, it means you need to repeat 1 and 2 again. I can cut and paste it in again instead.
Your should use the exact same motherboard if you can. It is the EP45-UD3L
It is on sale on a different website today, updating the OP.
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It is not illegal. legality is being decided. apple only has a ToS (which might render it illegal) in the US though. So all other countries you can do whatever.
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Wow, amazing guide. I've been living under boot camp with a legit mac, but honestly, I'd prefer this if I were going to get a desktop. I'm going to try and remember this when I build a comp.
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On June 19 2009 10:10 maleorderbride wrote:Show nested quote +On June 18 2009 22:51 ghostWriter wrote:
What do you do if you build it and it doesn't turn on?
The light on the motherboard turns on and is blue but none of the fans turn on and I'm pretty sure that all the wires are in correctly. I tried pulling the motherboard away from the case a bit to see if it isn't working because it is touching metal, but it still doesn't turn on. That is a pretty general failure to POST. It can be due to RAM, PSU, motherboard, and sometimes even a bad video card. Try testing it completely outside of the case as well. You can turn a computer on without a power button by just touching a screwdrive to the two power pins. I am afraid systematically swapping out components is really the only logical thing to do to test the hardware=/ If you cannot do that then get a PC tech to do it. It should not take more than an hour to test all of the hardware in a computer.
My video card was brand new and it's working fine. It turned out to be the RAM, apparently I put it in slots 0 and 2 instead of 0 and 1. I just put it in the two slots nearest to the processor instead of skipping a space. As soon as I moved the offending card, it started up nicely.
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Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think you can install official updates from Apples on a OSx86. Great guide nonetheless!
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You can Liberty. That is the whole reason why I take the pains to do a retail installation instead of a hacked distro.
The software is 100% unaltered system files with the only custom files being the third party drivers.
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When you overclock, do you have to do all the steps on the bios screen before install an os? Or can you tweak the settings afterwards?
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You can tweak afterward. Generally it is better to do it afterward anyway. Also, I hope this goes without saying, but if you aren't using this CPU, then don't use those voltages and settings.
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On June 28 2009 13:05 maleorderbride wrote:
You can Liberty. That is the whole reason why I take the pains to do a retail installation instead of a hacked distro.
The software is 100% unaltered system files with the only custom files being the third party drivers.
I see it now, that's why you actually recommended a specific list of hardware that is officially supported in the retail OSX version. Awesome !
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With starcraft 2 run on windows 7?
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Of course. Windows 7 is compatible with anything that runs on Vista.
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On June 28 2009 08:01 maleorderbride wrote:
hm will go snap a pic right now ;p
Yes, it means you need to repeat 1 and 2 again. I can cut and paste it in again instead.
Your should use the exact same motherboard if you can. It is the EP45-UD3L
It is on sale on a different website today, updating the OP.
hmm ok thanks.
have you tried it with the EP45-UD3P motherboard, as i know it's much better overall. I'm in Australia, buying everything local, and the price between the two is minor. Do you reckon it should work fine with the UD3P motherboard? If you could try it out in a build, that'd be great, otherwise I'll give it a go on the weekend after i finish ordering my build.
thanks
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I want to thank you for this guide. I recently had a very bad experience with mac technical support and, to be honest, I have no use for their sanctioned product anymore. I think I'll make a hackintosh eventually so I can get my mac fix for cheaper!
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On June 30 2009 13:10 LeperKahn wrote:
I want to thank you for this guide. I recently had a very bad experience with mac technical support and, to be honest, I have no use for their sanctioned product anymore. I think I'll make a hackintosh eventually so I can get my mac fix for cheaper!
you made a good choice, in my opinion. the rig that i'm getting is over $600 cheaper than the low-end iMac, and has 2x the amount of RAM, a faster processor, 680GB more HDD space, a 2" larger screen, a much faster graphics card, and is fully upgradeable in the future
now that's value for money i reckon 
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Wait, is this only for Macintosh? Because I would have just wasted 3 hours 23 minutes of my life for nothing...
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On June 30 2009 13:49 Abstruse wrote:
Wait, is this only for Macintosh? Because I would have just wasted 3 hours 23 minutes of my life for nothing...
What do you mean "only"? And what did you think it is...? 
Great guide btw, just read it
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Was there any particular reason you set FSB and vcore values in the bios instead of letting run at the auto detect values? This could cause a lot of problems for people simply following the directions as every cpu is different, even ones of the same type (different steppings). Ive never tried to install OSX like this before, is that actually a necessary step?
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Hey, thanks for the guide! Very sweet. I have a question along the lines that agarfin is asking...
If I am not overclocking (yet) what settings in bios are actually needed to install macos? Is there anything inparticular that has to get changed?
Anyway, following the guide and hoping in try installing tonight. Thanks a bunch.
-maltice
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i hear these hackintoshes aren't going to be able to boot up snow leopard when it's released, or that the required components would change at least. anyone know anything about that? i'd love to run os x but a high end mac is out of my budget for sure.
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On June 30 2009 13:49 Abstruse wrote:
Wait, is this only for Macintosh? Because I would have just wasted 3 hours 23 minutes of my life for nothing...
No, you use a windows disk. Just skip all of the software steps and use Vista/Windows 7 RC, or whatever.
On June 30 2009 14:11 agarfin wrote:
Was there any particular reason you set FSB and vcore values in the bios instead of letting run at the auto detect values? This could cause a lot of problems for people simply following the directions as every cpu is different, even ones of the same type (different steppings). Ive never tried to install OSX like this before, is that actually a necessary step?
I set the FSB and voltage settings manually because this is also an overclocking guide. It is for that specific CPU, as per the directions, and if you do not have that CPU then you should not follow those overclocking guidelines. Those voltages will work for both steppings of the Q9550 that are available right now. If you have the superior stepping then you could probably lower the voltage, but since you are still within Intel specs it is not a concern.
If you have a different processor then you should probably just google around for other people's settings. Max voltages can easily be ascertained on Intel's website. Just look up your CPU and its max operating voltage and temperature. Each CPU usually has a few batches, so make sure you pick the proper stepping. FSB walls exist for CPUs as well and it is up to you to determine yours via testing.
You can install OS X without those overclocking settings. You do NEED to change the storage/HDD configuration to AHCI, other than that, OS X does not require much in the BIOS. Also, all 1066MHz RAM takes more than the default voltage, so you have to up that in the BIOS anytime one builds a computer.
On July 03 2009 05:47 maltice wrote:
Hey, thanks for the guide! Very sweet. I have a question along the lines that agarfin is asking...
If I am not overclocking (yet) what settings in bios are actually needed to install macos? Is there anything inparticular that has to get changed?
Anyway, following the guide and hoping in try installing tonight. Thanks a bunch.
-maltice
Yes, AHCI and 2.1V/+.3V (at least for my RAM) need to be changed.
On July 03 2009 06:25 irishash wrote:
i hear these hackintoshes aren't going to be able to boot up snow leopard when it's released, or that the required components would change at least. anyone know anything about that? i'd love to run os x but a high end mac is out of my budget for sure.
You can run beta Snow Leopard on this hardware right now. Obviously, since it is a different OS you would need to re-install/change some of the drivers. Just like if you moved from XP to Vista. Since Snow Leopard is not released yet I did not see much point in trying to include directions that would probably be inaccurate when the final product hits the shelves.
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ok so now i am confused
im getting the ep45-ud3L motherboard, so i presume i follow those steps.
getting the e8400 processor, so what you say is that i google something about this, lol?
sorry about all the questions, i just want to make config as smooth as possible
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http://processorfinder.intel.com/details.aspx?sSpec=SLAPL
You can apply up to 1.3625V and a temp of 72C and stay within Intel's specifications. Ideally you want to peak at about 65C or less though.
Your CPU has a multiplier of x9, so you can still set it for 424FSB without any problems. I would say that for that particular CPU you can actually follow the guide exactly. Your CPU should theoretically go a bit higher, perhaps up to 4GHz even, but since you don't know exactly what you are doing I would not bother.
What you should do is test the temperatures on that CPU.
Windows Programs are preferable, but not everyone is dual-booting.
For Windows:
OCCT
http://www.ocbase.com/perestroika_en/index.php?Download
All in one tool that gives temperatures and allows you to test CPU stability by setting the test to "infinite" and clicking run. Let it run for at least 8 hours to test stability.
For OS X:
CPU Test (run one instance for each CPU core)
http://mac.softpedia.com/get/System-Utilities/CPUTest.shtml
Now, if your temperatures are too high, then you want to lower the Vcore 2 notches at a time in the BIOS. You can use the + and - keys to raise/lower voltages. After each time you lower it then stress test and watch the temperatures. You want to pass the stress tests and be within the target temperature.
If the tests fail when you lower the voltage then you should lower your FSB by 10 and try again at the same voltage. Lowering the FSB also lowers the temperature.
I only provided information for the Q9550 because I figure most people are not going to be able to overclock properly on their own. However, I suppose, so long as they look up the temp/voltages before they start they should be OK since all the other settings will remain as is. Only FSB/Vcore need to be changed for this build when using any Core 2 Duo or Core 2 Quad.
*note*
If you forget to do all of the BIOS settings exactly right then you will have problems overclocking. For example, enabling load-line calibration is vital, if you are following my Vcore suggestions.
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any1 here try using SLI on a leopard?
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actually, do you mind telling me exactly what parts of your guides not to do if im not overclocking? sorry, im new to this and keen on learning, thats all
OR
do you think i should be fine following your guide with an e8400 and stock heatsink?
thanks a lot
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Hey again. So far so good. I have sucessfully insalled osX on this setup (I didn't overclock, just adjusted AHCI and my memory voltage and such).
One question. Once I am all booted up and I have run the Universal OSx86 Installer and the OSx86 Tools I rebooted and then installed all the updates.
When I rebooted after that I got a gray screen after the apple logo which was indecipherable. I could tell it was booted up because when i moved the mouse something whacky was happening but there was no possibility of seeing what i was doing.
I tried to figure out how to boot osx into safe mode but everytime I tried the pc just reboots...
Right now I have it all working with the retail disc only but hav not done the updates again. ANy suggestions?
-maltice
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On July 06 2009 15:25 jacktheripper wrote:
actually, do you mind telling me exactly what parts of your guides not to do if im not overclocking? sorry, im new to this and keen on learning, thats all
OR
do you think i should be fine following your guide with an e8400 and stock heatsink?
thanks a lot
Hey Jack, I just did this guide without he overclocking part. Basically you skip all the bios stuff he talks about in the guide except you have to change Sata to AHCI mode instead of IDE mode. Other than that you don't have to switch anything else.
Although I did make sure USB mouse was enabled, and I set the correct timing, speed ands voltage of my memory (but I don't think you actually have to).
Other than that, hook it all up and boot up with the Boot 123 disc and have a retail copy of OSX handy.
Mine was pretty much painless (except updating the OS once I was all installed). Still trying to figure that part out.
-maltice
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best. guide. ever.
me and a friend did this once,its a lot of fun and works great. I wish we had this guide when we did it thou.
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Man I just read this guide again, and it's so orgasmic. T_T;!
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oh okay thanks, but i think i'll give a little overclocking a go. are you able to tell me where in your guide i replace the quad you used with my e8400 values?
thanks so much, you guys have made it so much easier for me
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On July 07 2009 04:14 maltice wrote:
Hey again. So far so good. I have sucessfully insalled osX on this setup (I didn't overclock, just adjusted AHCI and my memory voltage and such).
One question. Once I am all booted up and I have run the Universal OSx86 Installer and the OSx86 Tools I rebooted and then installed all the updates.
When I rebooted after that I got a gray screen after the apple logo which was indecipherable. I could tell it was booted up because when i moved the mouse something whacky was happening but there was no possibility of seeing what i was doing.
I tried to figure out how to boot osx into safe mode but everytime I tried the pc just reboots...
Right now I have it all working with the retail disc only but hav not done the updates again. ANy suggestions?
-maltice
Still having problems? If so, you can use the BOOT-132 CD as a safe mode CD. Just boot off it, then press enter the first time, then type 80 as the boot device (first HDD), press enter, then type -x -f and press enter. boot will take a long time, but it will eventually work.
Run the OSx86 tools again and go to "about this mac" and check the video card. Does it properly display as a 4800 series? does it show the correct amount of RAM? If not, try re-installing the video drivers. You are using the 4870, right?
I did not have any problems building several more of these after 10.5.7, so I am not sure what else you need to do. You can try downloading the 10.5.7 combo updater from apple.com instead of using the auto-update feature.
If you already installed the video card driver (before 10.5.7) you will get that kernel panic screen (apple logo with gibberish), but a safemode boot and re-install of the video driver should solve that.
On July 07 2009 06:27 jacktheripper wrote:
oh okay thanks, but i think i'll give a little overclocking a go. are you able to tell me where in your guide i replace the quad you used with my e8400 values?
thanks so much, you guys have made it so much easier for me
You can actually follow the guide exactly. Just make sure to do some tests, as I posted earlier, after you finish the installation. Your CPU is a very good overclocker and can use the same numbers, assuming the rest of the parts are the same, like motherboard and 1066MHz RAM.
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ok thanks, do you think it's necessary to buy a heatsink, or will the stock be fine for my cpu?
thanks
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On July 09 2009 06:56 jacktheripper wrote:
ok thanks, do you think it's necessary to buy a heatsink, or will the stock be fine for my cpu?
thanks
You need to buy the one that I specified, or one of equal cooling power, even for the E8400. Basically you end up paying $40 more for a CPU, but get 35-40% more processing power. The equivalent, without overclocking, costs $700 more.
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What changes would you make to build a nearly silent PC? I'm willing to give up some power if it's quiet enough that my wife lets me keep it in the living room.
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Bosnia-Herzegovina1437 Posts
I saw hack in the title so I thought I would be learning SC hacks
jk.
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On July 09 2009 09:48 expostfacto wrote:What changes would you make to build a nearly silent PC? I'm willing to give up some power if it's quiet enough that my wife lets me keep it in the living room.
You might want to read a bunch of reviews on a power supply to find a really quiet one. Although, this computer is actually rather quiet. I have had several customers remark that it is the quietest computer they have ever had.
You should use the same CPU fan, but do not overclock. If you use the CM case do not plug in the side fan, the other 2 are very quiet.
The video card, especially when gaming, probably produces the most noise. You can get a much less powerful video card, especially one with passive cooling instead of a fan, in order to eliminate that noise. What do you need to play--SC2? If so, something like this would be adequate:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121260
It is certainly not as good, but it is cheaper and still a decent video card. Install instructions for that card can be found here:
http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=151744
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er sorry what heatsink/cooler is it? i cant seem to find the name or a link; spoiler just reloads the page.
actually, i've been told the Xigmatek S1283 is great; you reckon this'll do it?
thanks
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weird, I have no problems on several different computer seeing the spoiler information. Is anyone else?
The heatsink is the Cooler Master Hyper-212. It is a little better than the Xigmatek cooler, but for the dual-core either should work. The Xigmatek is a bit cheaper.
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Still having problems? If so, you can use the BOOT-132 CD as a safe mode CD. Just boot off it, then press enter the first time, then type 80 as the boot device (first HDD), press enter, then type -x -f and press enter. boot will take a long time, but it will eventually work.
Run the OSx86 tools again and go to "about this mac" and check the video card. Does it properly display as a 4800 series? does it show the correct amount of RAM? If not, try re-installing the video drivers. You are using the 4870, right?
I did not have any problems building several more of these after 10.5.7, so I am not sure what else you need to do. You can try downloading the 10.5.7 combo updater from apple.com instead of using the auto-update feature.
If you already installed the video card driver (before 10.5.7) you will get that kernel panic screen (apple logo with gibberish), but a safemode boot and re-install of the video driver should solve that.
Cool. I will try updating without autoupdate and if I still have the same prob i will try the Boot132 safemode thing. Basically I couldn't figure out how to safemode boot to reinstall the video drivers so hopefully that will work... And yeah, using the 4870...
This one:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150394
And again, thanks for continuing to answer our questions in the forum... My hackintosh is so sweet... Been editing on Final Cut all week with no troubles at all...
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Okay awesome, I'm starting to work out how to follow the guide for not overclocking yet
I think we start here, right?
>>>>>>>>>>Standard CMOS Features:
+ Show Spoiler +
1. disable Drive A
Advanced tab:
+ Show Spoiler +
1. Change the boot order to CDROM/HDD/Disabled
Integrated Peripherals:
+ Show Spoiler +
1. Enable AHCI (You cannot install OS X, or boot into it, without this!)
2. USB Mouse Support to Enabled
Save the BIOS settings:
Press F11 and name the profile so you do not need to do this again.
+ Show Spoiler +
Remember - You CANNOT install OS X with 8GBs of RAM installed in the computer. Reduce it to 4GBs before starting this next step.
Now we need to burn a Boot-132 CD. Basically this CD contains the drivers needed to nurse the OS X installation along until you can install the real drivers. It also allows the booting of the retail DVD.
DL this, unzip it, and burn as an image onto a blank CD:
http://www.filesavr.com/genericiso
Boot 132 loading:
Boot 132 first screen:
You press enter here. That's it. Really.
Boot 132 second screen:
Here you want to eject the Boot-132 CD and insert the retail DVD. Wait about 20 seconds and then press enter. 9F is the default system ID for IDE DVD drives. If you use a SATA Drive it will be a different number, but it will automatically default to it.
Your primary HDD has a system ID of 80, with the secondary being 81, etc. We will be using that later.
Getting ready to start the OS X Install disc:
After this screen you should proceed to the spinning Mac icon, give it a few minutes and then this should pop up:
Select your language and agree to their ToS, etc.
Disk Utility:
Installing!
After it finishes installing you will have to reboot your computer manually. You will want to reset the computer and then eject the retail DVD and replace it with the Boot-132 disc. The boot-132 CD will load and you press enter once, just as before. This time type "80", press enter, and then enter again. OS X will start booting. You will then setup your keyboard, username, etc. Once you boot into your desktop download and unzip these files to your desktop:
http://www.filesavr.com/mobshackintoshstuff
Driver Installation:
1. A: open up Universal OSx86 Installer. Check the following boxes and hit install.
B: hit install again.
2. Now open OSx86 Tools and check all boxes and run the commands. That will take about 6-7 minutes to finish. Reboot. The computer will not fully turn off, so give it a full 10-15 minutes before manually resetting it. These drivers that we just installed will make it so you don't have to do that anymore.
3. Turn back on the computer. Now you should boot into the desktop normally. Go to the Apple sign in the top left and auto-update. Install any and all updates. Reboot.
4 Repeat steps 1 and 2 again. You need to re-install the drivers after updating to the major patches. We did it initially because otherwise you might have issues with the computer working properly.
5. Then install the radeon_hd_48x0 driver package and install the ATY_motmot.kext. The package is just a regular installer, but the kext needs to be installed with Universal OSx86. Open up Universal OSx86 and check the box for custom kext and then browse to the file. Make sure the proper HDD is selected at the top of the installer.
6. Now reboot, then install the last package, Enabler_for_Nvidia etc. Reboot.
7. That does it for the drivers. The only thing left to do is access the system preferences panel (in the dock) and go to energy settings and turn off sleep mode. The 4870 driver does not support sleep yet. If you are using a different video card test sleep and see if it works.
8. While in the system preferences panel also assign the sound to use "internal speakers" for sound out. You now have a fully functional MacPro Clone.
Dual Booting:
Unhook the Mac drive. Then install the OS just like you normally would. For windows just leave your secondary HDD hooked up and put the disk in. The BIOS is still set to auto-boot of the disk and the windows installer should start. Install drivers using the disc that comes with the motherboard. Just pop it in, wait for it to auto-start, then select the auto-install feature. Download the latest video driver from either ATI's website.
Now, hook up both HDDs again. Press F12 rapidly as soon right after you press the power button. Select Hard Drive, from the boot menu and then select the HDD that you installed OS X on. Run the Chamaleon 2 package installer. Reboot. You can triple boot, or quad boot, or whatever if you so desire. The process is the same as above.
Correct me if I'm wrong. Also, we update BIOS to latest version like you said at the start? And lastly, RAM voltage.. I'll be using Kingmax DDR-2-1066 PC8500 4GB yeah, so any tips on what to do to make it work properly?
thanks, and i am so sorry if I'm driving you crazy with my lack of computer intelligence. I'm taking IST at school, so that should help, plus I'm readin about everything.
thank you
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Jack,
I updated the bios before I did anything. Then I followed the guide pretty much how you posted it and it worked fine.
As for the memory, its pretty simple... You don't actually have to change anything and it will work fine. However, if you want to get the most out of it, you go into bios and change the Memory Voltage to the specified Voltage for your memory. I am using Kingston mem that said it ran at 2.2v, so I switched the voltage to 2.2v. (Memory voltage is found in the M.I.T. menu under Motherboard Voltage Control - DRAM Voltage)
There is also timing you can adjust. Mine were 5-5-5-15 so I switched that in Bios too. I thnk be default it had them running at 6-6-6-18 or something... (Timing is found right above the Motherboard voltage control and is labelled: DRAM Timing Selectable) Change that to Manual and change the numbers to match the numbers that your memory is suppose to run at.
Thats all I did and all worked fine.
-maltice
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On July 10 2009 20:27 maltice wrote:
Jack,
I updated the bios before I did anything. Then I followed the guide pretty much how you posted it and it worked fine.
As for the memory, its pretty simple... You don't actually have to change anything and it will work fine. However, if you want to get the most out of it, you go into bios and change the Memory Voltage to the specified Voltage for your memory. I am using Kingston mem that said it ran at 2.2v, so I switched the voltage to 2.2v. (Memory voltage is found in the M.I.T. menu under Motherboard Voltage Control - DRAM Voltage)
There is also timing you can adjust. Mine were 5-5-5-15 so I switched that in Bios too. I thnk be default it had them running at 6-6-6-18 or something... (Timing is found right above the Motherboard voltage control and is labelled: DRAM Timing Selectable) Change that to Manual and change the numbers to match the numbers that your memory is suppose to run at.
Thats all I did and all worked fine.
-maltice
Ah okay, thanks. The Kingmax RAM im getting says on the website CAS Latency: 5-5-5, CL=5, so i presume the timings should be set at 5-5-5-5? this doesnt seem right compared to yours, and looking on the web i cant find much about it. My RAM is Kingmax DDR-2-1066 PC8500 4GB KIT(2X2GB), found at www.ccpu.com.au
any suggestions on what timing it should be? Or will it say everything on the packaging when i buy it lol?
thanks
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I looked around, I even looked it up on the Kingmax site but they don't post the recommended timings... Probably just leave that part on auto.
Unless someone else can figure it out for you, but the last number should be high, like 15 or 18 something like that.
-maltice
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Thanks Maltice, you are correct with all your info. I highly suggest manually inputting the RAM information. In most cases it is printed on the sticks. CAS 5 defaults are 5-5-5-15.
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wow thanks so much you guys. hopefully i'll get my comp built monday now (still got to buy psu, then take all the parts to get it built) and i'll see how i go
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On June 14 2009 15:06 EvilTeletubby wrote:Very useful guide! In desperate need of a new rig, will probably start collecting parts later this year/early next. This'll be the first I've built, so any common 'newbie mistake' warnings are appreciated.
The main things I had problems with when I built my first one was installing the CPU and some of the cables onto the mobo.
The camlocks on the CPU really, REALLY, need to be forced. It made a wretched sound and felt like I was gonna snap the mobo, but as long as the CPU is in the correct spot it's totally normal. (the camlocks also look kind of bent, this is normal as well).
The 2nd thing was some of the power cables to the mobo. My PSU came with like 50 wires to plug into shit and the mobo also had like 10-15 spots of shit to plug in. Just make sure you check and double check that it's all plugged it properly.
PS- Make sure you don't tangle up the wiring too much and leave space around fans for airflow. Check your temps with some free utilities and adjust accordingly.
Oh, and sometimes your heatsinks will be loose on the mobo or whatever, they can be a bitch to put back in sometimes without breaking the plastic plug things (or just because it's so tight/small).
Common sense tip:
Clean out the dust regularly, and even disassemble the graphics card to clean out the dust if needed.
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i stumbled across this thread almost RIGHT after my 2004 powerbook completely died, so i saw tha as a sign haha
i ordered the parts (the only change being a bluray drive) and they should be here monday. i do have a question though
i have a disc image of osx, and i was wondering if its possible to boot and install from an external HDD, as opposed to the actual disc. i would just burn it to a dvd, but it needs to be duel layered, and i only have a single layer burner.
thanks for making this tutorial, btw. it really was exactly what i needed. waiting for my parts makes me feel like a 7 year old who's about to go on a shopping spree at toys r us
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you can install OS X off of a single layer DVD if you remove the language packs, or you can install from a flash drive, or an external drive. Single Layer DVD images can be obtained online. Instructions for external/USB drive installs can be found on insanelymac.com. Any retail guide will work; however, most of the ways that I have read to do it require a working computer running OS X to create the install files.
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i think i can just use my friends retail. he got the family one with 5 installs on it (or something like that), so hes letting me use one...i hope. if not, i might just have a fried burn it onto a DL disc.
ive tried following guides on making the leopard image file smaller, but they never worked for whatever reason. i didnt know they had single layer images, though. i suppose if all else fails, ill do that.
which leads me to my other question.
is it ok to install windows before osx? ill be installing windows 7 RC. i dont want anything to get screwed up with the initial boot screen or anything. ive also heard that chameleon doesnt work with windows 7, so let me know if youve tried it
thanks again.
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read this thread:
http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=165878
And just use the friend's disk, it will be fine. Also, I have read that with Blu-ray burners you need to use a SATA to IDE adapter to get some programs to burn correctly. I dunno, try TOAST and the onboard burning programs, if those work then maybe 10.5.7 fixed it.
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ok.
INSTALL COMPLETE
thank you so much!
maltice did you get it working? i just did what maleorderbride suggested and it eventually worked.
now, my monitor feels like display the screen pretty washed out and quite grainy>>any tips on how to fix this? (i got an lg w2252tq)
oh yeah, and my RAM is recognised as 800MHz
put in values 5-5-5-15 and 2.1v
on the packaging it says..
CAS Latency: 6-6-6 CL=6 (1066MHz) AND 5-5-5 CL=5
Voltage: 1.8v-2.1v
any tips? Not sure what the last value should be
thanks
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apparently i wont be able to get the disc for another few days, so i guess im stuck installing windows first. is that alright?
also, the blueray drive is only a dvd burner, not a bluray burner, if that makes a difference.
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Why OS X? If you hate Windows and NEED Photoshop and stuff then ok, but otherwise it's in all ways inferior to Linux for example... (Just my biased opinion)
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On July 13 2009 17:08 jacktheripper wrote:ok. INSTALL COMPLETE thank you so much! maltice did you get it working? i just did what maleorderbride suggested and it eventually worked. now, my monitor feels like display the screen pretty washed out and quite grainy>>any tips on how to fix this? (i got an lg w2252tq) oh yeah, and my RAM is recognised as 800MHz put in values 5-5-5-15 and 2.1v on the packaging it says.. CAS Latency: 6-6-6 CL=6 (1066MHz) AND 5-5-5 CL=5 Voltage: 1.8v-2.1v any tips? Not sure what the last value should be thanks
You should set your RAM to 2.1v (as you did) and the timings to 6-6-6-18. Change the RAM speed manually to 1066 as well.
Per the video card/display: Can you go to "about this mac", then "more info" and highlight the video card. What does it say about hardware acceleration and QE/CI support? What is the resolution set to?
The DVD Burner should be fine, it is just blu-ray burning which is weird, AFAIK. You can install windows first. Sometimes you end up having to do some monkeying around, such as repairing installations, but windows 7 is so freaking easy and quick to install that it is not like you lose much anyway. Also, as a general rule, it is best to disconnect any HDD that you are not actually installing on when doing multiple OS'es. Not only does it cut down on accidents, but sometimes the OS'es want to write tiny bits of info to the EFI partitions on the front of each HDD. All you need to do is disconnect either one of the two SATA cords from the HDD to make it so the computer will not see it.
The main reason people use OS X, other than looks and stability, is for specific programs that are only supported by OS X. As I have started to become more familiar with the OS there are many features that I enjoy that Windows often has, but buries further in the system. Really, as it becomes easier to have multiple OS'es, I wonder if one should just have 2 operating systems on most computers.
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ah awesome. im only using one HDD for now (partitioning), so disabling HDDs wont be a problem.
as for OSX, it really does stand out more so than windows for many applications. graphic design and music production are big ones. i always use pro tools (recording software) on my powerbook, and it ran much faster/smoother than my friends windows computer with better specs. its really all about what you need
thanks again for the help. only a few more hours to go
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Merkaba @ insanelymac.com wrote:
i have Windows 7 RC and OSX 10.5.7 dual booting on my EliteBook 8530w laptop with no issues. This is what i had to do to get it all working properly...
-Install Windows 7 RC first
-Within Windows 7, create a partition FAT32 or NFTS for your OSx86 install
-Download EasyBCD and install it (don't do anything with it yet)
-Now install OSX, and use that partition you created from windows. Obviously format it using the disk utilities and make sure it's Journaled
-Once OSX is done installing your Windows 7 will not work, boot off the Windows 7 DVD and click on the option at the bottom to repair windows
-Use the Console Option (last choice)
-type the following:
diskpart
list disk
select disk 0
list partition
select partition 0 (this should be the 100 or 200 MB partition that Windows 7 creates)
active
exit
exit
-Now your back at the main repair menu, select the repair automatically option (it's the top choice)
-It will now properly repair your windows 7 install and will allow you to boot into windows, but your OSX install will be broken
-Now right click on My Computer -> Manager -> Disk Management
-Assign a letter to your 100 or 200MB partition
-When that is done it should show up in My Computer and not be hidden
-Now open EasyBCD and make sure to run it as administrator
-Go to Add/Remove Entires -> Add an Entry -> Mac -> Type: Generic X86 PC -> Name: OSx86 (or whatever name you want)
- MAKE SURE YOU SAVE at the top!
Thats it, reboot and you should be all set!
Just follow his steps. It looks like he uses a different boot loader (easy BCD/windows loader), but that is acceptable. Chameleon 2 takes a bit of work to get playing nice with RC7 at this point. If you want to use Cham then just read the entire thread that I linked a few posts up. It has quite a few ways to install OS X /RC7 using MBR, GPT, same HDD, different HDDs, and using Cham.
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I am dual booting with RC7 and had no problems...
I followed the guide and installed chameleon, etc...
When booting though I have to choose the 'System Reserved' drive to actually boot into Windows 7... Which is a bit odd but it seemed to work fine.
Jacktheripper:
I am running everything fine, dual boot with windows 7... everything working flawlessly...
I have not however updated OSX yet... I was editing on Final Cut all weekend (man its so much better than Avid or Premiere) and didn't want to risk having to reinstall... I will try updating this week and see what happens. I'll let you know if I solve it (I figure Maleorder's suggestion of booting up with the 123 disc and then reinstalling the video drivers will work I just haven't tried yet).
Manit0u:
Final Cut Pro and the ability to render with multiple processors over my network (using the macbook pro as a secondary processor) is the reason I built it with OSX
****
Once I have the update solved, I'll give you guys an update in case you run into the same problem I did... Also, big CPU fan on its way... then I'll overclock (can't wait).
Maleorder:
If I overclock after the fact, that shouldn't bother OSX right? in theory that is....?
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Shoulda added this to the BETA key guide contest..
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It will not bother OS X at all. Your system may auto-detect incorrectly, but I am guessing even those will be fine.
After you update to 10.5.7 you will need to re-install your drivers, but it is not any different than what you did the first time. The 4870 driver usually works a bit better under 10.5.7 as well. 10.5.6 uses an out of date OpenGL framework. I highly recommend switching to 10.5.7.
Using Q-Master is pretty awesome. Building one of these, then a network render-box with the same specs except video card is incredibly cost effective. You get 8-cores, which are faster than 12-cores from Apple, at around 30% of the price.
Good to know Cham 2 and RC7 work fine. Don't know why people are bitching over on the insanelymac forums then. The reason you have to select the system reserved drive is because Windows 7 finally moved to GPT partitioning scheme (which Leopard already uses) that allows use of 2TB+ size single volumes.
MBR is old and should have been gotten rid of with Vista. Also, GPT creates a small boot partition at the front of each drive (EFI partition). Some of the drivers for OS X can be installed there, but most of the time is is semi-complicated.
On July 14 2009 03:35 Lovin wrote:
Shoulda added this to the BETA key guide contest..
I did xD
I have a feeling it was a bit too highly specialized to have the kind of appeal the judges were looking for. Anyway, I am glad I wrote it. It is nice to save TLers thousands and thousands of dollars ;p
Plus, should I ever need some graphic design done in the future, I figure I am building a base of processionals that might not begrudge me a few hours of free work ;p
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Hey,
Okay, running 10.5.7, went into the BIOS, changed RAM values to 6-6-6-18, voltage to 2.1v, and it's already saying 1066MHz in the BIOS (dunno how to manually change it), but when im back in osx it still says 800MHz
And for the video card:
ATI Radeon HD 4800:
Chipset Model: ATI Radeon HD 4800
Type: Display
Bus: PCIe
Slot: Slot-1
PCIe Lane Width: x16
VRAM (Total): 1024 MB
Vendor: ATI (0x1002)
Device ID: 0x9440
Revision ID: 0x0000
ROM Revision: 113-B1480A-236
EFI Driver Version: 01.00.236
Displays:
W2252:
Resolution: 1680 x 1050 @ 60 Hz
Depth: 32-Bit Color
Core Image: Hardware Accelerated
Main Display: Yes
Mirror: Off
Online: Yes
Quartz Extreme: Supported
Rotation: Supported
Display Connector:
Status: No Display Connected
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Hey Jack,
You are good to go actually. OS X is frequently wrong about the RAM values, however, you can change it using OSx86 Tools if you feel inclined.
Your video card is fully supported and enabled and is detecting all of the RAM. If you were the one that was getting odd color on the monitor then you might try plugging in a different LCD just to test. From here, it looks like then problem is not from OS X or the desktop.
Grats on the update and build! ;p
edit: I have an old LCD that works fine with PCs, but for some reason does not operate correctly with OS X. All of the new LCDs (made in the last 2 years) that I have tried work just fine.
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oh ok, well here's a screenshot of the desktop:
http://www.filesavr.com/picture1_97
if you look at all the text, i dont know how to say it but its kind of pixellated or something, and i dont know how to fix it.
i just replugged in the dvi cable, no change.
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hm. screen shot looks fine? anyone else want to view it and comment?
you might try posting on insanelymac.com and/or borrowing another LCD for a few minutes.
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hmm, where you all downloading windows 7 from, does it include the xp mode thingy?
edit: sorry, stupid question, found it
and with my monitor, it's like the text isnt getting smoothed, even though smoothing is on
maltice: what do you mean by system reserved drive? i havent got windows7 just yet, but knowing how to choose the drive should help
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I got windows 7 by signing up for the beta at microsoft's site. They give you a serial number and windows 7 will work until they decide to release and sell the release version. Its fun to mess around with but don't get too use to it since it will stop working soon enough.
Basically though, just go to windows.com and i'm sure the link is there somewhere. Or try bittorrent or something.. I'm sure someone has a torrent up to d/l it.
Basically once you get it installed and you follow maleorder's guide... you boot up with chameleon for dual boot and you will see your macosx drive and two drives representing windows 7. One of them is labelled 'system reserved' (for the reasons maleorder pointed out above) and the other contains your system files. To boot, you have to choose the one named 'system reserved'. If you choose the wrong one, it just says you can't boot from that drive.
Doesn't seem like you can really mess it up...
Also... Got 10.5.7 working... had to boot in safe mode with the 123 disc and reinstall the video drivers and all was well afterwards, so thanks again for the help on that
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okay, so i think im screwed. i installed vista on my other hdd, discovered it's actually crap, then removed it using Disk Utility under OSX, by clicking Erase.
This was probably not the smartest idea, and now the Windows XP install cd i have tells loads files, then says it encounters an error.
any ideas??
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its partitioned in GPT (probably NTFS format), which xp can't handle. boot into OS X, open disk utility, go to the partition tab, change it to 1 partition, then select the partition type below.
Change it to MBR partition, format as NTFS. Then pop in XP and install normally. Windows7 is much better than Vista and uses GPT partitions. Why even use Vista right now?
edit: general FYI is that XP and Vista installers both SUCK BALLS. You have no advanced partition/formatting tools available without opening command prompts and halting the install process. So, if you have a disk that is not in MBR for XP/Vista then you have to plug it into another computer that has a working windows/ OS X install in order to change the partition type from GPT unless you are fairly nerd-literate and can use cmd prompts and know what diskpart is. normal users are just screwed though.
I'm glad windows 7 is here because Vista is about 2 years behind Leopard in that respect.
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Damn maleorderbride deserves a fucking medal! ;D
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lmfao
You know how many tech sites never get posts of this quality? And this is a Starcraft forum? Holy Shit man. Much respect.
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On July 16 2009 13:46 maleorderbride wrote:
its partitioned in GPT (probably NTFS format), which xp can't handle. boot into OS X, open disk utility, go to the partition tab, change it to 1 partition, then select the partition type below.
Change it to MBR partition, format as NTFS. Then pop in XP and install normally. Windows7 is much better than Vista and uses GPT partitions. Why even use Vista right now?
edit: general FYI is that XP and Vista installers both SUCK BALLS. You have no advanced partition/formatting tools available without opening command prompts and halting the install process. So, if you have a disk that is not in MBR for XP/Vista then you have to plug it into another computer that has a working windows/ OS X install in order to change the partition type from GPT unless you are fairly nerd-literate and can use cmd prompts and know what diskpart is. normal users are just screwed though.
I'm glad windows 7 is here because Vista is about 2 years behind Leopard in that respect.
ok, so i have installed xp with AHCI off, but now when i turn it back on it get the 0x0000007B error message again. what im saying is, how the hell do i get xp to work with AHCI mode??
OR
i might download windows7 tomorrow; will this install in AHCI straight away for me, or will it be a hassle. should i partition the hdd to GPT, and then what format should i use?
thanks
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Vista and Windows 7 both play nice with AHCI; XP does not (unless you have a motherboard with an ICH xxR controller).
I am on vacation so I do not have my files with me. However, I think I found the file you want. Insanelymac is a convoluted warren of files. I really wish it was possible to organize that site a bit more.
http://www.mediafire.com/?ejxaynenyvh
Use OSx86 Tools to add the kext (click button, browse, add, allow it to restart). When restarting go into the BIOS and change AHCI to disabled. That should do it. If it does not, then you have to wait for me to get to home on the 20th to upload the file I normally use.
If you get kernel panic then just re-enable AHCI and see what happens. If you kernel panic then also, then boot into safemode using the boot-132 CD.
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Yeah props again.... building this hack was the best choice I've ever made... Keep missing the UPS guy so i havent gotten my super cpu cooler to overclock the hell out of this thing.
Jack:
I definitely recommend trying out windows 7.... I run vista on my media center PC and its ridiculously obnoxious compared to Windows 7.
Believe it or not, Win 7 is actually nice looking and seems to work alright. Of course their goofy home network junk is convoluted but i guess thats not too much different than osx. The only thing microsoft had going for it was that it was easy to network stuff, not its a pain in the butt.
Maleorder:
When I updated to 10.5.7 i had to use safe mode as I mentioned and then I re-followed steps 1 and 2 in the driver installation section... Then did the video drivers again. After that I rebooted succesfully etc.
Question is this... Now, everynow and then when I boot up, osx doesn't detect my usb keyboard. I literally unplug and replug into the same usb port and its fine but for some reason it doesn't see it sometimes. Any ideas?
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wtf.
my CPU was OC'd to 3.6ghz, so i ran the cpu:occt for 8 hours overnight and it was fine, but when i did the linpack test this morning for an hour, it said the cpu was too hot. i went back into BIOS and clocked it down to 2.83, and the linpack test said it was still too hot! the test doesnt even last for more than a few minutes before it shuts off and tells me its too hot.
while the test is running, the cores can spike as high as 82 degrees at 2.83ghz, which just doesnt make any sense. the heatsink is working fine and the tower isnt in an enclosed area.
the occt test is fine, though. its 64C max and 2.83, so i dont know which test to follow
is it because i ran the test overnight for 8 hours and didnt shut it down for a while to cool off before the other tests? i cant think of any other reason
any ideas?
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Jack:
I definitely recommend trying out windows 7.... I run vista on my media center PC and its ridiculously obnoxious compared to Windows 7.
Okay, so I have installed Windows 7 and all the drivers from my motherboard, video card and monitor, and now when i boot into OSX my ethernet is not working i.e. i can connect to the net in windows but not osx.
any ideas?
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When you unhook the windows drive and only boot to OSX do you get internet then?
I havent had any troubles in this regard... Seemed to me that installing windows 7 on a separate drive doesn't affect OSX at all.. OSX doesn;t even know its there (as opposed to boot camp).
Someone let me know if I am wrong.
You hooked up to a router? Did you reserve the mac address in your router? I had some network troubles with mine since I had switched out most of parts when I built it and it took me a while to realize I had to reserve the new mac address (not macintosh obviously, just the MAC media ccess control address), otherwise on my d-link router it expired my address after a while because of the way I set it up.
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also i noticed in OCCT that the CPU freq. is underclocked by 10.2%. i feel like thats just a bug or something, though, because every once in a while it goes up to +27.2% for a second then drops back to -10.2.
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Welp, had a nice problem tonight.. my main monitor decided to go nuts and all i could see was something that looked like static on a TV screen.. you know, like back when you were a kid and you had an antenna on your roof but you couldn't actually get any reception?
Anyway... I am re-booting in safe mode now and changing the resolution to something smaller (1440xwhatever instead of 1680x1050)
Seems like that fixed it, but the whole static on the monitor thing was a bit freaky. I was just messing around and decided to go to system preferences and click 'display'. Once I did that, my monitor went all staticky and whacky.
Anyone else encounter anything like this? I have a weird feeling its my crappy ass chinsy monitor (22" proview cheapo screen) because the other one (17" samsung syncmaster) remained normal.
UPDATE:
So, all was well, so i tried hitting system preferences --> display - again (you know... just to see). Same shit. Basically, every time I boot to safe mode I can change he display properties but if I ever want to go back to the display properties I get the static death... (I tried reinstalling the video drivers too)
If anyone gets the chance can they try going to system preferences and going to display and see if anything freaky happens? (not that I wish it upon you but I am curious to know if its my monitor or something else.
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UPDATE:
I can only use my main monitor now as a secondary monitor... as soon as I try to make it the main monitor it goes into static mode.
So now I am using my 17inch monior as my main monitor and my 22 as the secondary which stinks because unlike windows osx likes to keep certain things attributed to the main montior... and apparently you have to have you monitor plugged into the correct dvi port to become the main monitor.
Question: Is there a way to wipe out the monitor profiles? everytime i try to hook up the minitors in the way i like them it automatically tries to set them in the manner i last left them... if i could just force them to orget that last setup maybe everything will go back into place... anyone else seen this kind o thing?
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Great guide, but I beg to differ on some of your hardware choices. 8gb ram is overkill, 4gb will be cheaper and there is no performance difference. You could get BETTER performance if you go with a 4gb OCZ blade or similar performance RAM. Overkill on the storage. Xigmatek Dark Knight performs better than the CM at the same price. Not a fan of OCZ PSUs, would rather go Corsair, but it'll do.
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On July 17 2009 08:16 jacktheripper wrote:Show nested quote +Jack:
I definitely recommend trying out windows 7.... I run vista on my media center PC and its ridiculously obnoxious compared to Windows 7.
Okay, so I have installed Windows 7 and all the drivers from my motherboard, video card and monitor, and now when i boot into OSX my ethernet is not working i.e. i can connect to the net in windows but not osx. any ideas?
It could certainly be a MAC address problem. The ethernet chip built into that motherboard actually is supported in OS X by default. It is also used in real Macintoshes.
On July 17 2009 12:23 tgrokz wrote:
also i noticed in OCCT that the CPU freq. is underclocked by 10.2%. i feel like thats just a bug or something, though, because every once in a while it goes up to +27.2% for a second then drops back to -10.2.
That is the energy saving feature that is built into Intel CPUs. I left that enabled because it does not interfere with the overclock and the CPU goes back up to full speed if you do anything for just a few seconds.
The reason the other test produced such high temperatures for you is because it is an incredibly incredibly intense test. It is completely artificial. No program will ever utilize your CPU that efficiently and make it that hot in real life utilization. Your overclock settings were fine before.
On July 17 2009 12:33 maltice wrote:
Welp, had a nice problem tonight.. my main monitor decided to go nuts and all i could see was something that looked like static on a TV screen.. you know, like back when you were a kid and you had an antenna on your roof but you couldn't actually get any reception?
Anyway... I am re-booting in safe mode now and changing the resolution to something smaller (1440xwhatever instead of 1680x1050)
Seems like that fixed it, but the whole static on the monitor thing was a bit freaky. I was just messing around and decided to go to system preferences and click 'display'. Once I did that, my monitor went all staticky and whacky.
Anyone else encounter anything like this? I have a weird feeling its my crappy ass chinsy monitor (22" proview cheapo screen) because the other one (17" samsung syncmaster) remained normal.
UPDATE:
So, all was well, so i tried hitting system preferences --> display - again (you know... just to see). Same shit. Basically, every time I boot to safe mode I can change he display properties but if I ever want to go back to the display properties I get the static death... (I tried reinstalling the video drivers too)
If anyone gets the chance can they try going to system preferences and going to display and see if anything freaky happens? (not that I wish it upon you but I am curious to know if its my monitor or something else.
I will check that out when I get home. I thought the 10.5.7 drivers for the video card fixed those kind of issues. Try plugging in a single monitor and changing the default resolution. I am positive that I have done that before without issues on this system.
Dual display is a bit iffy at times. You probably do not want to mess with a working (and optimal resolution) setup when you have it going already.
As for making sure the main monitor is the default display, shouldn't you just be able to leave only one plugged in, then reboot the computer? You can always change which DVI it is plugged into as well.
edit: hmm...read your update post. Try with only the 22" plugged in. Then run U Installer. Check the box that says force resolution and manually set the 22" display settings. If that fails to work though then you will need to boot into safe mode. As an absolute last resort you can always hit the button on OSx86 Tools that "restores defaults" after which you will need to re-install the drivers. Remember, if you reset the settings you will lose personal files as well. The computer will be back like it was the first time you booted it up.
On July 17 2009 13:31 sexynugget wrote:
Great guide, but I beg to differ on some of your hardware choices. 8gb ram is overkill, 4gb will be cheaper and there is no performance difference. You could get BETTER performance if you go with a 4gb OCZ blade or similar performance RAM. Overkill on the storage. Xigmatek Dark Knight performs better than the CM at the same price. Not a fan of OCZ PSUs, would rather go Corsair, but it'll do.
I build this system for professionals, so the 8GBs of RAM is not overkill. This is not really a gaming machine, it just happens to excel at that as well. This is for video/sound/multimedia.
The hyper-212 is pretty much identical to the XIgmatek and is $7 bucks cheaper on the 3 sites i checked. Where do you buy it? Also, I happen to buy direct from CM ;p Cheap cases, fans, and PSUs FTW!
You can use more expensive RAM, however, it is fairly hard to get anything that runs at 4-4-4-12 at 1018MHz. Micron ICs are the only thing that spring to mind. Blade is more expensive and you have to overclock it just to attempt those timings, plus it is really not worth the effort or potential warranty return 2 years down the road. I don't like to overclock things unless I improve the cooling on it. Don't normally do that with RAM =/
I am not a brand person for any part, including PSUs. They are not made by the sticker brand anyway, they are all 3rd party. The 3rd party changes from model to model, so only model specific reviews are of any help. The actual manufacturers that I like Huntkey, and SeaSonic. Corsair, incidently, uses Channel Wide and SeaSonic to make the SAME model PSUs. Which makes it a crap shoot if you get a 750W that is really a SS 850W, or a 750W that is really ChannelWide 700W. With their 750W/850W units you get either an AMAZING unit, or an acceptable one. Really you don't lose with either, assuming you did not bank on getting the better of the two.
For PSUs, much like RAM, it is important to read quality reviews (like johnny guru) and realize that you are not buying the sticker, you are buying the PSU from some other company that you probably have never heard of. So, either do research, or blindly follow someone else that has probably done the research. For the record though, Corsair typically makes very high quality and inexpensive PSUs. I just hate Channel Wide =/
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I'm hooked up through a Netcomm NB600W router, and even when i unhook the windows7 drive it still doesnt connect. also, there doesnt seem to be a "reserve" button in the router configuration
UPDATE: i just downloaded the ethernet driver for OSX, and internet is working. going to boot into 7, check, then boot back into OSX.
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As an absolute last resort you can always hit the button on OSx86 Tools that "restores defaults" after which you will need to re-install the drivers. Remember, if you reset the settings you will lose personal files as well. The computer will be back like it was the first time you booted it up.
Hmm... So every program I installed is gone or just personal settings and stuff?
UPDATE:
Scratch this question. Nothing I did would make my monitor work again so i did the set everything to default choice in osx tools. Worked like a charm.. all my programs are still there, just my settings are gone (which is all i wanted to really get rid of anyway)
Anyway, I spent more time fiddling with it then I would have if I had just done a reset in the first place.
I am back up and running, everything working again. Thanks for the tips.
-maltice
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cant delete so i keep this here
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I'm definitely doing this if my laptop proves to fail at SC2. Windows is just terrible compared to os X, but top specced macs cost a fortune.
A tip: You might find the mouse acceleration algorithm in os X different to windows, so you probably want to install a nifty application called "USB Overdrive" or something similar to remove mouse acceleration, just like you can do it with setpoint in XP.
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yeah i looked up that other test and saw that it was just a ridiculous hardcore test. good to hear that the -10% thing is normal. i put the original OC settings you had back on.
i havent installed OSX yet, as i havent gotten the disc, but windows 7 runs amazingly. prototype, fallout 3, and left 4 dead run absolutely perfect with no slowdowns at all. i cant wait to get OSX up and running so i can see how well this rig handles some intense audio processing.
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Apparently I've really bad at this
I can't screw the motherboard onto the casing T_T
There's two screws I can't screw in (with the fan being the top, the topleft and mid-left screws)
I can't fit my hand into the topleft, and I think the mid-left one just hates me
(sorry about the low quality, all I have is my phone's camera)
That's what my screws look like, and yeah they are the same as the metal risers
I couldn't find any other ones, twelve came in the package, and they seem to fit into themselves, so I just used them ;;
Edit: Actually with 4 screws in the motherboard doesn't move at all
Would 4 screws be enough?
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Just as a heads up:
You cannot turn mouse acceleration off on a mac. I have tried countless utilities and drivers. Basically Macs are not compatible with competitive RTS unless you love picking up your mouse over and over.
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On July 25 2009 11:42 Wr3k wrote:
Just as a heads up:
You cannot turn mouse acceleration off on a mac. I have tried countless utilities and drivers. Basically Macs are not compatible with competitive RTS unless you love picking up your mouse over and over.
actually, you can.
2 ways : paying for the software (i forgot the name because i didn't pay) OR dl and install the MICROSOFT mouse driver for mac.
Yup, this driver RAPE the mouse acceleration of mac OS.
But, agreed on every counts that Mac is SHIT for RTS. And gaming in general.
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On July 25 2009 11:36 Dead9 wrote:Apparently I've really bad at this I can't screw the motherboard onto the casing T_T There's two screws I can't screw in (with the fan being the top, the topleft and mid-left screws) I can't fit my hand into the topleft, and I think the mid-left one just hates me (sorry about the low quality, all I have is my phone's camera) That's what my screws look like, and yeah they are the same as the metal risers I couldn't find any other ones, twelve came in the package, and they seem to fit into themselves, so I just used them ;; Edit: Actually with 4 screws in the motherboard doesn't move at all Would 4 screws be enough?
4 screws is fine. the upper left one is a bitch. I only use a long handled metallic tipped screw driver on those ;p
On July 25 2009 11:42 Wr3k wrote:
Just as a heads up:
You cannot turn mouse acceleration off on a mac. I have tried countless utilities and drivers. Basically Macs are not compatible with competitive RTS unless you love picking up your mouse over and over.
As mentioned already, you can turn off mouse acceleration. Feel free to just google it. I just dual boot and use windows to play games though ;p
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On July 25 2009 11:51 MK wrote:Show nested quote +On July 25 2009 11:42 Wr3k wrote:
Just as a heads up:
You cannot turn mouse acceleration off on a mac. I have tried countless utilities and drivers. Basically Macs are not compatible with competitive RTS unless you love picking up your mouse over and over. actually, you can. 2 ways : paying for the software (i forgot the name because i didn't pay) OR dl and install the MICROSOFT mouse driver for mac. Yup, this driver RAPE the mouse acceleration of mac OS. But, agreed on every counts that Mac is SHIT for RTS. And gaming in general.
Mind giving me the specific name of the driver/program? I have tried pretty much everything that comes up under google or mac os help forums. It would be fantastic to play starcraft on my laptop. There are programs that I have tried that people left and right swear to, however I have only found ones that alter the acceleration curve and don't actually disable the acceleration. From what I have heard it is actually impossible to turn it off completely, but you can use drivers that have different acceleration curves to make it barely noticeable (none of them have worked for me).
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On July 25 2009 12:51 Wr3k wrote:Show nested quote +On July 25 2009 11:51 MK wrote:On July 25 2009 11:42 Wr3k wrote:
Just as a heads up:
You cannot turn mouse acceleration off on a mac. I have tried countless utilities and drivers. Basically Macs are not compatible with competitive RTS unless you love picking up your mouse over and over. actually, you can. 2 ways : paying for the software (i forgot the name because i didn't pay) OR dl and install the MICROSOFT mouse driver for mac. Yup, this driver RAPE the mouse acceleration of mac OS. But, agreed on every counts that Mac is SHIT for RTS. And gaming in general. Mind giving me the specific name of the driver/program? I have tried pretty much everything that comes up under google or mac os help forums. It would be fantastic to play starcraft on my laptop. There are programs that I have tried that people left and right swear to, however I have only found ones that alter the acceleration curve and don't actually disable the acceleration. From what I have heard it is actually impossible to turn it off completely, but you can use drivers that have different acceleration curves to make it barely noticeable (none of them have worked for me).
I don't play on OS X, but it looks like this will work:
http://www.apple.com/downloads/macosx/drivers/intellipointandintellitypepro.html
Or you can go spend money and get one of the programs that does it.
edit:
here is an even newer version of the intellipoint driver:
http://www.versiontracker.com/dyn/moreinfo/macosx/14205
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On July 25 2009 12:40 maleorderbride wrote:Show nested quote +On July 25 2009 11:36 Dead9 wrote:Apparently I've really bad at this I can't screw the motherboard onto the casing T_T There's two screws I can't screw in (with the fan being the top, the topleft and mid-left screws) I can't fit my hand into the topleft, and I think the mid-left one just hates me (sorry about the low quality, all I have is my phone's camera) That's what my screws look like, and yeah they are the same as the metal risers I couldn't find any other ones, twelve came in the package, and they seem to fit into themselves, so I just used them ;; Edit: Actually with 4 screws in the motherboard doesn't move at all Would 4 screws be enough? 4 screws is fine. the upper left one is a bitch. I only use a long handled metallic tipped screw driver on those ;p
Now everything is put in, and I'm confused as to where all the plugs go? =S
ATM I have the following power cables plugged in from my power supply:
2 cables to the motherboard (3 plugs)
2 cables to the HDs (I have 2 HDs, 1 plug per HD)
2 cables to the graphics card (4 plugs total, I also used the little splitter thing for the fans)
But I need one more plug for the CD drive? It seems to be the same as the plugs for the graphics card, but I don't have any more
Edit: just kidding, just looked at the instructions booklet >_<
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Mind giving me the specific name of the driver/program? I have tried pretty much everything that comes up under google or mac os help forums. It would be fantastic to play starcraft on my laptop. There are programs that I have tried that people left and right swear to, however I have only found ones that alter the acceleration curve and don't actually disable the acceleration. From what I have heard it is actually impossible to turn it off completely, but you can use drivers that have different acceleration curves to make it barely noticeable (none of them have worked for me).
Free : Microsoft Intelligent Point Driver
Pay : USB Overdrive
Leet : Throw your F*CKING MAC away AND GET A DELL WITH MICROSOFT WINDOWS XP.
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u should sell premade ones!
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On July 25 2009 15:39 piratebay wrote:
u should sell premade ones!
A short blurb about me. I have run my own computer business for the last 3 years now. I build and repair computers. I have built somewhere in the neighborhood of about 300 computers. I recently started on hackintoshes and have built about 20ish of them.
he does that for a living...
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iNcontroL
USA29055 Posts
holy shit amazing guide
This stuff is so incredibly beyond me rofl.. even if I followed this I'd end up lost asap.
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I think I have everything plugged in correctly, but nothing's appearing on my monitor
Graphics card's fan is spinning, motherboard lit up, all the fans are on
I tested the monitor by connecting to my laptop (via vgaand it worked fine
I'm pretty sure the graphics card is plugged in all the way; it clicked when I pushed it in
My monitor only has a VGA port, so I plugged it like this: monitor -- VGA cable -- VGA->DVI converter -- graphics card
:[
Edit: Also, I waited for a few minutes and my motherboard isn't beeping
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On July 26 2009 07:15 Dead9 wrote:
I think I have everything plugged in correctly, but nothing's appearing on my monitor
Graphics card's fan is spinning, motherboard lit up, all the fans are on
I tested the monitor by connecting to my laptop (via vgaand it worked fine
I'm pretty sure the graphics card is plugged in all the way; it clicked when I pushed it in
My monitor only has a VGA port, so I plugged it like this: monitor -- VGA cable -- VGA->DVI converter -- graphics card
:[
Edit: Also, I waited for a few minutes and my motherboard isn't beeping
Sounds like it is not POSTing =/
One of the most annoying things because it can be ANYTHING. The best move is to just relax and disconnect everything. Replug-it all in. Pay special attention to the motherboard plugs, the RAM, and the video card. Leave any non-vital parts out of the comp for now :no DVD, HDD, firewire, wireless,etc needed.
If still no go then plug in just a single RAM stick and try again (try at least 2 of the sticks, one at a time). Then if no go, unplug the power from the PSU, remove the round CMOS battery and then mash the power button for a few seconds. Leave the battery out for an hour or so. Go play some SC. Put the battery back in, power cord connect, and try to boot the system again.
If that does not give any results then you want to swap in a different video card and power supply. =/ Hope you have spares somewhere. If that still yields no results then you need to take the motherboard out of the case, then try it on a non-conducting surface with a box underneath the motherboard to protect the pins. You can turn on a motherboard without a power button connected by shorting the pins that you would normally connect the cord to. Just complete the circuit with a steady hand and any non-magnetic screwdriver with a plastic handle.
If that does not work, then you need to re-seat the CPU and try one last time. Then you have to RMA your motherboard =/
On July 25 2009 16:12 {88}iNcontroL wrote:
holy shit amazing guide
This stuff is so incredibly beyond me rofl.. even if I followed this I'd end up lost asap.
Thanks And i'm sure you could manage. It is really not that difficult, just slightly methodical.
I almost PMed you when I was in seattle last weekend. Instead, I got drunk at some bar/diner that served breakfast at midnight alongside a pitcher of pabst. not sure the beer went well with the omlette, but that's OK.
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hey... this is a really nooby question but where can i buy a copy of mac os x? i don't want to use a pirated copy but i can't find the mac os on the apple website. do you have to go to an apple store to find one?
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On July 26 2009 09:19 maleorderbride wrote:Show nested quote +On July 26 2009 07:15 Dead9 wrote:
I think I have everything plugged in correctly, but nothing's appearing on my monitor
Graphics card's fan is spinning, motherboard lit up, all the fans are on
I tested the monitor by connecting to my laptop (via vgaand it worked fine
I'm pretty sure the graphics card is plugged in all the way; it clicked when I pushed it in
My monitor only has a VGA port, so I plugged it like this: monitor -- VGA cable -- VGA->DVI converter -- graphics card
:[
Edit: Also, I waited for a few minutes and my motherboard isn't beeping Sounds like it is not POSTing =/ One of the most annoying things because it can be ANYTHING. The best move is to just relax and disconnect everything. Replug-it all in. Pay special attention to the motherboard plugs, the RAM, and the video card. Leave any non-vital parts out of the comp for now :no DVD, HDD, firewire, wireless,etc needed. If still no go then plug in just a single RAM stick and try again (try at least 2 of the sticks, one at a time). Then if no go, unplug the power from the PSU, remove the round CMOS battery and then mash the power button for a few seconds. Leave the battery out for an hour or so. Go play some SC. Put the battery back in, power cord connect, and try to boot the system again. If that does not give any results then you want to swap in a different video card and power supply. =/ Hope you have spares somewhere. If that still yields no results then you need to take the motherboard out of the case, then try it on a non-conducting surface with a box underneath the motherboard to protect the pins. You can turn on a motherboard without a power button connected by shorting the pins that you would normally connect the cord to. Just complete the circuit with a steady hand and any non-magnetic screwdriver with a plastic handle. If that does not work, then you need to re-seat the CPU and try one last time. Then you have to RMA your motherboard =/
I've tried switching around the RAM and unplugging almost everything off the motherboard, but it still won't work
Now it turns on for a few seconds, then turns off, then turns on again >_<
Edit: YESSS I think it's okay but gotta try plugging everything back in now
And it was the RAM
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If that was your first boot then it might just be the RAM voltage. Some RAM does not get auto-downclocked by the motherboard to run at 800MHz so the computer will not POST when a bunch of sticks are in at once.
Try manually setting the RAM voltage then plug in all the sticks again before assuming one is bad. You can use memtest86+ (burned onto a CD) to check RAM. DL the .iso and use nero or the like to burn it as an image cd.
glad to hear your comp boots now though ;p
Apple still has not released a DVD copy of 10.5.7. I have no idea why they are so incredibly lame and slow.
You can by 10.5.6 off of pricegrabber.com for ~$100.
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Great guide, I really want to make a Hackintosh now.
I have a quick question though:
I've had a Q6600 + Vista 32-Bit for a 2 years now and I had a couple of questions about it...
If I wanted to build a Hackintosh, would the Q6600 be a viable option to use (I was thinking of overclocking the processor and upgrading from 3 -> 8gb of ram) for the hackintosh? Or would it be better to save up a little more money and purchase to the q9550?
Also the motherboard I'm using right now is a Asus P5BW-LA.
Anyway thanks for the awesome guide!
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The Q9550 overclocks better and runs cooler, but considering you already have a Q600 I would just use that. Also, your motherboard does not officially support 1333FSB processors and probably not overclocking either.
You can try using my install CD for that motherboard. The driver package will not be the same, but just getting OS X installed and updated to 10.5.7 is a considerable start.
After you get it installed you can start googing on insanelymac by motherboard model or by specific part that isn't working. For example, here is a thread about the LAN chip on that motherboard:
http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=100184
Video card should be fairly straightforward since you can just buy one that you can find a driver for. That pretty much just leaves the sound driver and maybe a chipset driver (P965).
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Interesting...
Sorry I'm not that good with computers... would I theoretically be able to replace the motherboard for one that would readily accept overclocking? (Edit: i.e. one of the two you posted in the beginning)
I'm considering gutting my computer for parts since the case is fairly small and I had a hard time even adding an additional HDD.
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Yea, if you used one of my motherboards you would be able to max out the Q6600--probably around 3.4GHz-3.8GHz depending on the stepping. You might only want to re-use the CPU, HDD, and DVD Drive from that old comp. Still, that saves you ~$270.
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if you're not that good with computers you might consider skipping the overclocking as you won't notice that much of a difference anyways.
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On July 26 2009 23:47 maleorderbride wrote:
If that was your first boot then it might just be the RAM voltage. Some RAM does not get auto-downclocked by the motherboard to run at 800MHz so the computer will not POST when a bunch of sticks are in at once.
Try manually setting the RAM voltage then plug in all the sticks again before assuming one is bad. You can use memtest86+ (burned onto a CD) to check RAM. DL the .iso and use nero or the like to burn it as an image cd.
glad to hear your comp boots now though ;p
I've managed to install windows 7, update the bios, and input the settings, but now the computer restarts after the windows splash screen :[
It worked fine before I updated the bios and input the settings too
I don't have a CD burner at home (my laptop one broke >_<), so I can't try memtest til later
Edit: I think one of my sticks of RAM is broken; could that be the problem? =S
Edit: Also, one stick of RAM in each red slot works fine, but the same sticks in the yellow slots doesn't work
Edit: Actually, apparently all my RAM works, after testing them all one by one
Could it be that the motherboard is broken?
Edit: The yellow slot closest to the fan doesn't load anything at all (just stays at a black screen), and the other yellow slot gives me the blue screen of death as soon as win7 loads :[
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Hey maleorder.... I finally got my cpu cooler and my additional 4gb of memory...
I put in the two sticks of memory (identical to the previous ones) and booted up but osX hangs...
It gets past the apple screen and then goes to that bluish screen right before it shows you the desktop and the hard drives stop thinking and nothing ever comes up....
I literally took the two sticks out and rebooted and now I am writing this.....
Any suggestions?
Jacktheripper:
How did you end up with the overclocking and all?
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On July 28 2009 06:10 Dead9 wrote:Show nested quote +On July 26 2009 23:47 maleorderbride wrote:
If that was your first boot then it might just be the RAM voltage. Some RAM does not get auto-downclocked by the motherboard to run at 800MHz so the computer will not POST when a bunch of sticks are in at once.
Try manually setting the RAM voltage then plug in all the sticks again before assuming one is bad. You can use memtest86+ (burned onto a CD) to check RAM. DL the .iso and use nero or the like to burn it as an image cd.
glad to hear your comp boots now though ;p I've managed to install windows 7, update the bios, and input the settings, but now the computer restarts after the windows splash screen :[ It worked fine before I updated the bios and input the settings too I don't have a CD burner at home (my laptop one broke >_<), so I can't try memtest til later Edit: I think one of my sticks of RAM is broken; could that be the problem? =S Edit: Also, one stick of RAM in each red slot works fine, but the same sticks in the yellow slots doesn't work Edit: Actually, apparently all my RAM works, after testing them all one by one Could it be that the motherboard is broken? Edit: The yellow slot closest to the fan doesn't load anything at all (just stays at a black screen), and the other yellow slot gives me the blue screen of death as soon as win7 loads :[
It could be the overclock. Try changing the FSB to 333 and then adjust the RAM ratio to end up at 1066MHz. Double check the BIOS settings also. Did you enable load-line calibration?
On July 31 2009 08:28 maltice wrote:
Hey maleorder.... I finally got my cpu cooler and my additional 4gb of memory...
I put in the two sticks of memory (identical to the previous ones) and booted up but osX hangs...
It gets past the apple screen and then goes to that bluish screen right before it shows you the desktop and the hard drives stop thinking and nothing ever comes up....
I literally took the two sticks out and rebooted and now I am writing this.....
Any suggestions?
Jacktheripper:
How did you end up with the overclocking and all?
I assume the RAM settings are all manually set? Nothing else has changed in your system? You can try doing the same thing and changing the FSB down while maintaining 1066 on the ram.
Otherwise check using memtest86+.
Also, you can try using the BOOT-132 CD to make sure something else weird, like a driver issue, is going on. Press enter at the first boot 132 screen, then type 80 and press enter, then type -x -f and press enter.
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I assume the RAM settings are all manually set? Nothing else has changed in your system? You can try doing the same thing and changing the FSB down while maintaining 1066 on the ram.
Otherwise check using memtest86+.
Also, you can try using the BOOT-132 CD to make sure something else weird, like a driver issue, is going on. Press enter at the first boot 132 screen, then type 80 and press enter, then type -x -f and press enter.
Yep, nothing changed....
doing some cleaning but I will try again later.. I havent even touched the overclocking yet, i literally put the new sticks in (ram is manually set, yes, and the OS hangs.. if I take the same two sticks and swap them with the originals, its fine, its only when I try the 8gb....
I'll mess around a bit more and give an update on sunday (the day i plan to do this all on).
Was hoping maybe I missed a step...
Basically though, I shouldn't have any problem just adding 4 more gigs right?
-malt
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you shouldn't. i would assume it is the RAM.
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On July 31 2009 08:54 maleorderbride wrote:Show nested quote +On July 28 2009 06:10 Dead9 wrote:On July 26 2009 23:47 maleorderbride wrote:
If that was your first boot then it might just be the RAM voltage. Some RAM does not get auto-downclocked by the motherboard to run at 800MHz so the computer will not POST when a bunch of sticks are in at once.
Try manually setting the RAM voltage then plug in all the sticks again before assuming one is bad. You can use memtest86+ (burned onto a CD) to check RAM. DL the .iso and use nero or the like to burn it as an image cd.
glad to hear your comp boots now though ;p I've managed to install windows 7, update the bios, and input the settings, but now the computer restarts after the windows splash screen :[ It worked fine before I updated the bios and input the settings too I don't have a CD burner at home (my laptop one broke >_<), so I can't try memtest til later Edit: I think one of my sticks of RAM is broken; could that be the problem? =S Edit: Also, one stick of RAM in each red slot works fine, but the same sticks in the yellow slots doesn't work Edit: Actually, apparently all my RAM works, after testing them all one by one Could it be that the motherboard is broken? Edit: The yellow slot closest to the fan doesn't load anything at all (just stays at a black screen), and the other yellow slot gives me the blue screen of death as soon as win7 loads :[ It could be the overclock. Try changing the FSB to 333 and then adjust the RAM ratio to end up at 1066MHz. Double check the BIOS settings also. Did you enable load-line calibration?
Doesn't work :[
And yeah, I did enable load-line calibration
Edit: and all my settings (as of right now) are the same as yours minus the AHCI thing and with the FSB = 333 and ratio = 3.something
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This is how it's working out right now
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run the build in ram tester in windows.
type "memory diagnostic" into the run bar. run it, and allow it to restart your computer.
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On July 31 2009 12:03 maleorderbride wrote:
run the build in ram tester in windows.
type "memory diagnostic" into the run bar. run it, and allow it to restart your computer.
Does it matter how my RAM is set up when I run it?
Right now the memory diagnostic is running with one stick in each red slot
Edit: Nothing turned up T_T
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your computer hates you. have you run OCCT?
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Yeah, it ran fine
My CPU temperature stayed at around 62C
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Hmmm..that is odd. You can download seatools to check the HDD as well. Although, it does not sound like a HDD problem we still need to rule it out. Did you run OCCT for at least 4 hours? Preferably 8.
After that you should really get a spare PSU to test with. If the RAM/HDD/PSU/CPU all test OK then that really just leaves the motherboard =/
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What are the best ways to boost performance besides overclocking?
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On August 01 2009 11:30 maleorderbride wrote:
Hmmm..that is odd. You can download seatools to check the HDD as well. Although, it does not sound like a HDD problem we still need to rule it out. Did you run OCCT for at least 4 hours? Preferably 8.
After that you should really get a spare PSU to test with. If the RAM/HDD/PSU/CPU all test OK then that really just leaves the motherboard =/
Blehhh I just closed seagate on accident after it ran for a few hours on long drive self test >_<
Running the short self drive test now
But it passed the SMART test
I ran OCCT for 7 hours and 40-something minutes
I don't really have any spare computer parts; the only ways I could get another PSU would be to buy another or steal one from someone :[
Edit: apparently the short tests run really fast, both of my HDDs passed the SMART check, short drive self test, and short generic
I'm probably just going to give my extra two sticks of RAM to my friend and buy another motherboard in a few years =\
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Welp, got the cooler master fan installed, installed it all correctly, and it seems completely fine, however, when i run OOCT my temps definitely go up to 73-74 degrees and then i have to turn it off... (it even makes my bluetooth mouse stop working).
Everything on my system is set exatcly the same way you have it in the guide...
Maleorder, you did say in the guide that it shouldn't really go over 68 right? Mine goes past 68 within a minute or two.... My temp in bios is about 48 degrees...
Am I running too hot even at idle? I put what seemed like the right about of paste an everything on the cpu... etc etc...
-malt
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i just was able to get OSX. after a day of frustration, most things are working. my wireless card (linksys WMP4g PCI) works only if theres no WPA/WEP set on the router. id like to be able to fix that, but after much internet searching, it doesnt seem likely.
my bigger problem is audio. i patched the appleHDA.kext file, but now it just says "HD Audio Output" under the sound devices. i was using the spidif and line-out on windows (spidif for gaming), but neither work now. i dont know why its just me having this problem, seeing as we have the same hardware.
also, im having some issues with dual booting. i had win7 running great, but when i tried installing OSX on the partition i made for it a while ago, it completely destroyed my windows partition. eventually ill try to reinstall it, but i dont want to damage the OSX boot partition. i dont feel like going through that mess again haha. i want to separate the drive into 3 parts. osx, win7, and shared file storage. i want the boot partitions to be 50gigs and the rest will be dedicated to the shared files (movies, music, etc), but i dont know what file system can be shared for windows and mac. i know FAT can, but thats a 4gig file limit and most HD movie files are larger than that. any other ideas?
either way, its great to have this baby running OSX.
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i want the boot partitions to be 50gigs and the rest will be dedicated to the shared files (movies, music, etc), but i dont know what file system can be shared for windows and mac. i know FAT can, but thats a 4gig file limit and most HD movie files are larger than that. any other ideas?
i actually run a windows pc next to the TV as a windows media center pc and threw a few 1tb drives in it, formatted them as NTFS drives, and made them completely accessible through my network. Once you do that OSX and windows can read/write to them without any troubles.
Not sure if thats an option for you but basically if you can make the drives network drives then you can bypass the file format problem. Other than that you're stuck with FAT.
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On August 03 2009 00:36 maltice wrote:Show nested quote +
i want the boot partitions to be 50gigs and the rest will be dedicated to the shared files (movies, music, etc), but i dont know what file system can be shared for windows and mac. i know FAT can, but thats a 4gig file limit and most HD movie files are larger than that. any other ideas?
i actually run a windows pc next to the TV as a windows media center pc and threw a few 1tb drives in it, formatted them as NTFS drives, and made them completely accessible through my network. Once you do that OSX and windows can read/write to them without any troubles. Not sure if thats an option for you but basically if you can make the drives network drives then you can bypass the file format problem. Other than that you're stuck with FAT.
For Mac, you can use NTFS3G to read/write NTFS drives, and for windows you can use MacDrive to read/write mac drives.
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Ah cool, I didn't know that. Thanks.
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im still working on formatting the large partition to work with osx and windows. it seems macdrive doesnt want to work with the osx journaled, and ntfs3g wont mount the partition when its NTFS. ideally id like to have it mac formatted and have macdrive run it on windows. im sure ill get it to work eventually
my bigger problem is getting the sound to work in OSX. i dont know how you guys did it, but if anyone has a solution, please let me know. as i said, system preferences isnt detecting any output devices at all. ive tried a ton of solutions from the net, but none fully worked.
other than these issues, im dual booting perfectly and my main programs are running amazingly. i feel like win7 is much quicker than OSX, but that might be because ive been favoring win7 since i got the computer.
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On August 02 2009 12:11 tgrokz wrote:
i just was able to get OSX. after a day of frustration, most things are working. my wireless card (linksys WMP4g PCI) works only if theres no WPA/WEP set on the router. id like to be able to fix that, but after much internet searching, it doesnt seem likely.
my bigger problem is audio. i patched the appleHDA.kext file, but now it just says "HD Audio Output" under the sound devices. i was using the spidif and line-out on windows (spidif for gaming), but neither work now. i dont know why its just me having this problem, seeing as we have the same hardware.
also, im having some issues with dual booting. i had win7 running great, but when i tried installing OSX on the partition i made for it a while ago, it completely destroyed my windows partition. eventually ill try to reinstall it, but i dont want to damage the OSX boot partition. i dont feel like going through that mess again haha. i want to separate the drive into 3 parts. osx, win7, and shared file storage. i want the boot partitions to be 50gigs and the rest will be dedicated to the shared files (movies, music, etc), but i dont know what file system can be shared for windows and mac. i know FAT can, but thats a 4gig file limit and most HD movie files are larger than that. any other ideas?
either way, its great to have this baby running OSX.
Try re-installing the Motherboard drivers (EP45 package+essentials). Then check the "About this Mac" to see if you have an audio output device.
That is all there is too it =/
SPIDIF might not work with that driver package. If that is the case, and the normal audio works, then let me know and I will google up an insanelymac page for how to get SPIDIF working.
Did you try googling insanelymac + whatever wireless IC you have? Don't always just go on the model, but actually look at the IC. Chances are its broadcom, realtek, etc. Then look for the 3rd party driver for it. Some realtek ICs have real mac drivers for them on their website as well.
Using one HDD for 2 OSes is more difficult, but still doable. The problem is you can't use Cham 2 without manually installing it (using terminal, which is the OS X version of DOS basically). I suggest getting a tiny HDD for the second OS, but if you don't want to do that then search insanely mac forums. There are at least 10 guides that have windows 7/OS X dual boot on the same HDD. You know how to install both at this point, so all you really need to do is find out how to setup the bootloader, and perhaps change the EFI partition in some way.
On August 02 2009 03:45 maltice wrote:
Welp, got the cooler master fan installed, installed it all correctly, and it seems completely fine, however, when i run OOCT my temps definitely go up to 73-74 degrees and then i have to turn it off... (it even makes my bluetooth mouse stop working).
Everything on my system is set exatcly the same way you have it in the guide...
Maleorder, you did say in the guide that it shouldn't really go over 68 right? Mine goes past 68 within a minute or two.... My temp in bios is about 48 degrees...
Am I running too hot even at idle? I put what seemed like the right about of paste an everything on the cpu... etc etc...
-malt
Did you have an E8400, or the Q9550? I forget...anyway, both idle and load temps are a bit high on your comp. Start off just lowering the voltage until you lose stability. If that does not solve your problem then I would wager you did not mount the HSF correctly and need to take the motherboard back out of the case =/
Make sure the four screws are tightened all the way down. A tiny bit of the screws peek out past the nuts if you do it correctly.
On August 01 2009 13:59 Dead9 wrote:Show nested quote +On August 01 2009 11:30 maleorderbride wrote:
Hmmm..that is odd. You can download seatools to check the HDD as well. Although, it does not sound like a HDD problem we still need to rule it out. Did you run OCCT for at least 4 hours? Preferably 8.
After that you should really get a spare PSU to test with. If the RAM/HDD/PSU/CPU all test OK then that really just leaves the motherboard =/ Blehhh I just closed seagate on accident after it ran for a few hours on long drive self test >_< Running the short self drive test now But it passed the SMART test I ran OCCT for 7 hours and 40-something minutes I don't really have any spare computer parts; the only ways I could get another PSU would be to buy another or steal one from someone :[ Edit: apparently the short tests run really fast, both of my HDDs passed the SMART check, short drive self test, and short generic I'm probably just going to give my extra two sticks of RAM to my friend and buy another motherboard in a few years =\
Might want to steal a PSU to test with =/ (Radioshack 30 day return policy!) as your comp not working with 8GBs of RAM really seems like you have some sort of hardware problem. Chances are it will crop up again later in the form of additional instability. It is best to solve it now.
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i have it dual booting totally fine. its just getting one of the OS's to read the either the NTFS or mac journaled format for the misc. data partition (460 gigs). for some reason, windows with MacDrive installed reads the OSX boot partition, but not the 460g partition while formatted as journaled. same goes for OSX and ntfs3g. it reads the windows part, but not the NTFS formatted large partition. its frustrating only because theres a whole lot of media i need to put on this computer from my old one, and i cant do that until i have that huge partition formatted so both OS's can read it. i tried a bunch of different formatting programs in windows and the OSX disk utility on the boot disk, but nothing seems to work.
no dice with the audio drivers. i reinstalled the essentials and mobo kexts and restarted, but im still seeing no audio outputs. weird stuff. should i be checking anything other than apply kext package?
thanks
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Did you have an E8400, or the Q9550? I forget...anyway, both idle and load temps are a bit high on your comp. Start off just lowering the voltage until you lose stability. If that does not solve your problem then I would wager you did not mount the HSF correctly and need to take the motherboard back out of the case =/
Make sure the four screws are tightened all the way down. A tiny bit of the screws peek out past the nuts if you do it correctly.
I went with the 9550.... and I actually did remove the fan and reinstall it just in case... I screwed everything down (tiny bit of screw peeking out) and screwed it to the point where it actually stops.
What I find interesting is OCCT. I can launch OCCT and turn infinite on.... and the CPU says, 48 degrees or whatever....
Then I click ON. As soon as I hit 'ON', the temp shoots up to 60ish degrees --- instantly. There is no period where you can tell its getting warmer and increasing in temp, it just goes from 48 to 60ish as soon as i hit ON... its weird... Anyway.. will keep messing around with it but figured I'd ask...
Anyone else using OCCT see this happen ? The temp jumping up instantly after hitting 'ON'?
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I assume that the CPU usage % likewise shoots up? Also, are you using the normal test mode (OCCT) or linpack? I would not suggest using linpack.
Definitely try lowering the voltages a bit if you are having those major temp problems.
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Yeah, percentage jumps straight to 98%-99% etc... SO maybe its accurate... never overclocked my cpu before so not sure..
I will follow your directions in a previous post to adjust the voltages and jazz.. but based on your guide, this motherboard, this cpu and this cpu fan you dont go above 68 degrees?
I mean it is hot as hell in NYC right now so maybe thats it... heh.
Thanks again, will update everyone soon.
-maltice
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On August 05 2009 06:41 tgrokz wrote:
i have it dual booting totally fine. its just getting one of the OS's to read the either the NTFS or mac journaled format for the misc. data partition (460 gigs). for some reason, windows with MacDrive installed reads the OSX boot partition, but not the 460g partition while formatted as journaled. same goes for OSX and ntfs3g. it reads the windows part, but not the NTFS formatted large partition. its frustrating only because theres a whole lot of media i need to put on this computer from my old one, and i cant do that until i have that huge partition formatted so both OS's can read it. i tried a bunch of different formatting programs in windows and the OSX disk utility on the boot disk, but nothing seems to work.
no dice with the audio drivers. i reinstalled the essentials and mobo kexts and restarted, but im still seeing no audio outputs. weird stuff. should i be checking anything other than apply kext package?
thanks
Nope, just check the apply kext package. When you say no audio ouputs, do you mean the speakers are not working, or that "About this Mac" still does not show any audio devices?
When you go to "System Preferences" and go to sound--do you have the option to select the sound device type? If so, select onboard speakers.
And what motherboard do you have? EP45-UD3L?
Regarding the partitioning, OS X can read NTFS by default. Is that not the case with you? Also, what partition style are your drives? Are these MBR or GPT? Can you give me a quick outline of the # of HDDs, partitions on them, and then the MBR/GPT and HFS+/NTFS or however you have them done.
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i have the UD3R, if that makes a difference. it says something along the lines of "no output devices" in the system preferences. about this mac is detecting 2 "Intel high definition audio" listings, but after it gives the device id and the audio id, theres nothing under "available devices". i tried running through the osxtools thing again (checked all the boxes) and applying the kexts, but still no luck.
as for the partitioning, i think theres something wrong with the drive sector itself. windows can read the partition when its formatted to NTFS via the disk management tool in the administrator section of the control panel, but OSX cant find it at all. it can, however see the windows boot partition, so its not like OSX cant read any NTFS partitions. in fact, OSX sees the drive as a 120gig disk, which is just my osx and win7 partitions (60 gigs each). even when i run disk utility off of the boot cd, it only recognizes those 2 partitions. i can format it to ntfs, fat, fat32, and even have it as unallocated space and OSX refuses to read it as anything higher than 120 gigs. i dont want to run a killdisk like program to fix it unless its the final option.
im using one HD. the partitions are as follows:
200MB GPT protective partition
62 gig HFSJ osx boot partition (primary)
128MB of unallocated space (i have no idea why thats there or how to get rid of it)
60 gig NTFS windows boot (primary)
472 GB NTFS (logical)
i tried making the large partition primary, but that didnt fix anything
EDIT: found a fix for the audio
http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=124794&pid=883418&mode=threaded&start=#entry883418
i have the back line out working, but nothing else. its the only real audio output id use in osx (spidif for gaming/movies), so im pretty happy about that. now if i can get the HDD working, ill be golden
i find it really strange that even about this mac it says my hard drive is only 128GB
im using partition wizard to wipe the partition and zero it out. maybe that will work.
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I use a program called Gnome (partition editor) to mess around with partitions and do multiple OS installs on a single HDD. Maybe it can help you. I am afraid I am not certain what is wrong with your HDD either. It might be best to start over?
Are you using windows 7?
http://gparted.sourceforge.net/
Also, Cham 2 RC2 is out: (fixes some bugs, just use it ;p)
http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=159885&st=300&p=1137584&#entry1137584
Additionally, 10.5.8 came out yesterday. Go ahead and download it anyone who wants it, just boot off the boot-132 CD afterward and type in "80" to choose the primary HDD and boot with flags " -x -f " then install all drivers again. 10.5.8 fucks the ATI 4870 driver over, so if you don't boot off the CD and re-install then you get a garbled white mess of a screen and no boot at all. But, once you install the drivers again everything is pretty and perfect.
edit: oh, and 10.5.8 fails to load the first time, then restarts the comp. that even happens on real macs. just ignore it ;p
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Well, now I have a much bigger problem. I used gparted and deleted the large ntfs part and formatted it to hfs+
when I rebooted, it wouldn't boot from the hard drive. The windows 7 boot disc said I didn't have windows installed or had a different version. The partitions are still there, but after it tries to boot from the disc drive it just hangs. I tried switching the boot flag From the 200mb efi part to the win7 and osx partitions, but nothing worked. Pleeeassee help me fix this so I don't have to redo everything haha.
Deleting the big partition didn't help. Should I try installing another win7 partition and use easybcd to replace the maybe curropted boot sector?
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you can't boot off OS X either??
Try sticking in the Boot-132 CD and boot off that, then do the whole type"80" thing, press enter, and then try installing Chameleon 2 again.
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gparted changed partition style to gpt on all drives, apparently. Windows said it couldn't install win7 because everything was in the gpt partition style. Is there a way to change it back?
Booting into osx through boot 123 worked. I installed chameleon and now it boots to the chameleon screen. When I try to boot osx, I get a bunch of terminal like text and it kernal panics. Win 7 says that the boot sector is damaged and needs repai, which can't be done because the win boot disc says I'm using the wrong version. I just have to change the gpt thing I think. I was apparently using the windows bootloader before. I guess that's why it wouldn't boot anything
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win7 can install on GPT. You should probably install OS X and Win7 on GPT for simplicity. Then they could probably read each other also...
This is why I suggest two separate HDDs in the guide though ;p It makes it WAY easier.
Anything you did with Gpart you can un-do with Gpart as well. You could maybe take a picture of your disks when at the Gpart window and post it? I could perhaps get a better idea of what needs to change.
Windows 7 repair would probably fix any W7 boot issues as well.
on a side note I finally built an i7 hackintosh benchmarks soon I suppose.
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hm it was very insistent that i couldnt install win7 on any gpt partition haha. i wish i had the money to get that other HD
as i said, the win boot disc cant repair anything. it says that im using a different version of windows than whats on the disc.
as for gpart, i know nothing noticeably changed after i partitioned and formatted the volume to hsf+. i know the entire disc's information panel said it was in the gpt style format, or something. i dont know if it said anything different before, though. i think i saw a screenshot icon in there, so ill see if that will work. if not, i guess ill have to settle for crappy iphone pics haha
the ntfs partition had msftres after it, but when i changed the flag to boot, it wouldnt let me just turn it off. unchecking boot auto checked that
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maybe just install win 7 then? Does the installer disk let you do that?
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no. every partition says windows cant be installed due to the gpt thing. formatting within the windows disc doesnt help at all.
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eh not worth all the trouble. chameleon works, but boots only into osx, so ill just reinstall windows. i used the install pc_efi chameleon option in uinstaller and now it boots nicely into OSX so ill just start over winth win7. i didnt have anything too important on it, anyway
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Question:
Does OSX shut down on anyone randomly and give a message that says, "You need to shut down your computer" ?
It doesn't happen often but it happened to my wife again last night when she was doing some stuff and its happened to me a few times when I first built it.
Basically a seethrough grayish background descends from the top of the screen and covers the main screen and gives the message. I believe there is a big power symbol on the message too.
Anyone?
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Yep, its the kernel panic screen... heh.
No driver issues, no overclocking (yet)....
When I first installed I had a few kernel panics but now its pretty stable (except for the one my wife had the other day when I posted this)...
I havent tested anything with handbrake or CPU test yet so I'll give that a whirl... Other than the one the other day I havent had one in weeks and I've been editing with final cut and doing tons of stuff so it may have just been a fluke but I'll do some stress tests and see what happens. Thanks again.
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Well, CPUTest really should not turn up anything if you never overclocked. CPUs never ever are bad unless you physically damage them.
You can try DLing and burning to a CD memtest86+. It should complete 3 full passes (3 hours maybe?) without any errors. Then at least you can sign off on the RAM as well.
You might be best served to just update to 10.5.8 and reinstall the drivers. Do all of the motherboard drivers (EP45-DS3L+essentials) as well as the Enabler_for_nvidia driver package.
You no longer need to install the motmot kext or the initial HD48xx series package. I also modified the OP to reflect this change.
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On August 05 2009 03:38 maleorderbride wrote:Show nested quote +On August 01 2009 13:59 Dead9 wrote:On August 01 2009 11:30 maleorderbride wrote:
Hmmm..that is odd. You can download seatools to check the HDD as well. Although, it does not sound like a HDD problem we still need to rule it out. Did you run OCCT for at least 4 hours? Preferably 8.
After that you should really get a spare PSU to test with. If the RAM/HDD/PSU/CPU all test OK then that really just leaves the motherboard =/ Blehhh I just closed seagate on accident after it ran for a few hours on long drive self test >_< Running the short self drive test now But it passed the SMART test I ran OCCT for 7 hours and 40-something minutes I don't really have any spare computer parts; the only ways I could get another PSU would be to buy another or steal one from someone :[ Edit: apparently the short tests run really fast, both of my HDDs passed the SMART check, short drive self test, and short generic I'm probably just going to give my extra two sticks of RAM to my friend and buy another motherboard in a few years =\ Might want to steal a PSU to test with =/ (Radioshack 30 day return policy!) as your comp not working with 8GBs of RAM really seems like you have some sort of hardware problem. Chances are it will crop up again later in the form of additional instability. It is best to solve it now.
Managed to get a new PSU (only took a month right haha) and it still doesn't work :[
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Thanks for the thorough guide. I have a very similar set up with a couple differences. I have a EP45-DS4P rather than your board. And, the big one, a Gigabyte 4870. In short, the gigabyte 4870 DOES NOT WORK in OSX. It's a lost cause. I went as far as flashing it yesterday to try. No go. Oh well. I'll try a 4890 and see if I have better luck. If not, as least I get a better graphics card.
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The 4870 should really work, unless you have a TOXIC 4870 or one of the HDMI/S-video/DVI version cards. Is that what you have?
Even if you do, there *might* be a thread somewhere on insanelymac that can help.
<b>Dead9</b>: Have you tried just one stick in each of the RAM channels? Is it possible that just one channel on the motherboard is bad?
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On August 22 2009 08:48 maleorderbride wrote:
The 4870 should really work, unless you have a TOXIC 4870 or one of the HDMI/S-video/DVI version cards. Is that what you have?
Even if you do, there *might* be a thread somewhere on insanelymac that can help.
<b>Dead9</b>: Have you tried just one stick in each of the RAM channels? Is it possible that just one channel on the motherboard is bad?
Nope. I swear, I've read every last pixel on getting the 4870 to work and a Gigabyte card will not work. It was a DVI/HDMI/Displayport version. I'm running a Diamond Radeon HD 4890 (for google spiders to get this post in case someone is looking) and it booted straight into my previously broken OS X without modification.
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Ah, yea the DVI/HDMI/Displayport versions are the only ones that do not work ;p
If anyone ever gets reliably working EFI strings then it will be fine.
Also, that 4890 is not quite done yet, you want Core Image to say "hardware" and Quartz Extreme to be "supported".
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On August 23 2009 00:32 maleorderbride wrote:
Ah, yea the DVI/HDMI/Displayport versions are the only ones that do not work ;p
That's just my luck.
Also, that 4890 is not quite done yet, you want Core Image to say "hardware" and Quartz Extreme to be "supported".
Yeah, I noticed that QE/CI weren't enabled. I'm working on that next. I did a restore from my TM backup last night and my LAN ports quit working. I'm not sure what happened but I'm just starting over and I'll get it all working by tonight, I hope.
One thing I haven't been able to do is get audio working. It says "no output source connected" or something like that. I checked my BIOS settings and it's set to what the OP suggests. Any ideas?
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Ok. Got QE/CI working. Sound is up next.
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Sound should just be running the installer that I have in my OP. Use UInstaller and apply the Gigabyte EP45-DS3L kext package. Then, open OS X 86 Tools and hit "touch extensions folder", reboot.
Then go to System Preferences and set the sound outputs to whatever you are using (probably internal speakers)
Also, can you do me a favor and DL this:
http://www.maxon.net/downloads/downloads/cinebench.html
run the video (OpenGL) test and let me know what numbers you get. thanks!
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On August 22 2009 08:48 maleorderbride wrote:
The 4870 should really work, unless you have a TOXIC 4870 or one of the HDMI/S-video/DVI version cards. Is that what you have?
Even if you do, there *might* be a thread somewhere on insanelymac that can help.
<b>Dead9</b>: Have you tried just one stick in each of the RAM channels? Is it possible that just one channel on the motherboard is bad?
Oh well though; already gave my extra ram sticks to a friend
Hopefully I won't have any problems for a few years
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On August 23 2009 05:34 maleorderbride wrote:Sound should just be running the installer that I have in my OP. Use UInstaller and apply the Gigabyte EP45-DS3L kext package. Then, open OS X 86 Tools and hit "touch extensions folder", reboot. Then go to System Preferences and set the sound outputs to whatever you are using (probably internal speakers) Also, can you do me a favor and DL this: http://www.maxon.net/downloads/downloads/cinebench.htmlrun the video (OpenGL) test and let me know what numbers you get. thanks!
Well, I've got a slightly different MB. It's a EP45-DS4P. I was able to get the audio working through eventually by copying the AppleHDA.kext from my iMac and an HDAenable.kext file. Works great now.
Cinebench:
CINEBENCH R10
****************************************************
Tester :
Processor :
MHz :
Number of CPUs : 4
Operating System : OS X 32 BIT 10.5.8
Graphics Card : ATI Radeon RV770 Prototype OpenGL Engine
Resolution : <fill this out>
Color Depth : <fill this out>
****************************************************
Rendering (Single CPU): 3483 CB-CPU
Rendering (Multiple CPU): 11986 CB-CPU
Multiprocessor Speedup: 3.44
Shading (OpenGL Standard) : 7088 CB-GFX
****************************************************
I was not able to overclock at all. I tried the settings you recommended but the computer would just restart a couple of times and the revert to previous settings. Gotta work on that... The key difference for me was the DDR2 ram running at 800 mhz rather than the 1066 that you have. Can you recommend settings for OCing based on that? I understand that the mem needs to run at at least 2 times the CPU setting, right? I'm also still running the stock Q9550 cooler.
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Heh, yea I can not recommend overclocking if you are not going to upgrade the CPU heatsink.
You are also correct that you need to have at least 2:1 of the FSB, but that means you can just do a lower overclock, such as 400FSB. You will also want to change the FSB ratio to 400FSB, instead of the 333FSB that my guide uses. Then manually select 800MHz for the RAM speed (2:1).
400FSB will still yield a very reasonable speed of 3.4GHz. Voltage can probably be ~1.30 or less depending on the starting VID of your chip, so long as you have load-line calibration enabled.
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So.....
Any news on snow Leopard Maleorder?
Havent been around much to do any research on it but firgured I'd post in here to see if anyone has upgraded successfuly yet
-malt
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Anyone know how to get rid of the chameleon bootloader screen? I don't actually want to do dual boot anymore and insteadm just want it to go to osX but I cant get rid of the bootloader screen, heh
Thanks
-maltice
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Has anyone tried the new release snow leopard on this build?? Im getting my parts in today : ) first time building too looks great.
Thanks for the Guide.
frankenstein
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I haven't tried yet. Got the upgrade sitting there on my desk but been too busy at work to mess with it. Let us know if it works for ya!
_maltice
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I will do SL soon (probably this week) and then post the driver files.
Maltice:
Instead of removing Chameleon just edit it to autostart.
Navigate to the /Extra
copy the apple.com.Boot.plist to the desktop
open it and add the following lines below any line that ends in </string>
Preserve the tabbed over formatting of the keys/string
<key>Timeout</key>
<string>2</string>
Save the plist and add it back to the /Extra folder.
Open terminal
type sudo -s
enter your password (you must have an account with a password for this)
cd /
chmod -R 755 extra
chown -R root:wheel extra
exit
Reboot and Chameleon should autostart the default volume in 2 seconds.
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I cant seem to get the boot 132 disc made? I unrar it with winrar and the INITRD shows as a winzip file not an image file Im new to these programs any help would be great
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got it now i cant get the the right format into GUID to complete the install of osx....
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nevermind just clicked on it and it worked
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glad to hear its working! (although seemingly frustrating)
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Almost working sort of im trying to search for stuff first but i cant find something similiar
I get a blue screen on boot(even in safe mode -x) and cant eject the boot 132 disc (I was going to try a fresh install to fix it) so cant go anywhere that i see.
This happened after doing auto update
at first i was having the same problem as maltice with a grey (with specs dots like water splashed on the screen) screen on boot but could move the mouse and stuff would sort of move. So i tried the safe boot and opened up the 4870 driver and did the install .... I dont think i was suposed to do that
my memory showed up but my video card doesnt show up all the way like one of the other posts has a picture with a 4890 card my didnt show all the info .
is there a comand i can use to just start over and do a fresh install?
heres what i get on diagnostic messages. anything else i should look for?
I cant get in to osx I just get the blue screen.
boot 132 is stuck in dvd drive
The only difference on my build is i have a Pioneer218 dvd burner SATA
dumppanic (53)error getting reference to iodevice tree
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Thanks for your time and this guide any help would be great
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one last thing in safe mode i get a grey screen with an apple and a timer circle below the apple then..... after a while.... screen goes black then turns blue
Thanks again
frankenstein
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So, any updates on Snow Leopard? I'm keen to install it, but checking here for any details i should know
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On September 12 2009 10:48 frankenstein wrote:
Almost working sort of im trying to search for stuff first but i cant find something similiar
I get a blue screen on boot(even in safe mode -x) and cant eject the boot 132 disc (I was going to try a fresh install to fix it) so cant go anywhere that i see.
This happened after doing auto update
at first i was having the same problem as maltice with a grey (with specs dots like water splashed on the screen) screen on boot but could move the mouse and stuff would sort of move. So i tried the safe boot and opened up the 4870 driver and did the install .... I dont think i was suposed to do that
my memory showed up but my video card doesnt show up all the way like one of the other posts has a picture with a 4890 card my didnt show all the info .
is there a comand i can use to just start over and do a fresh install?
heres what i get on diagnostic messages. anything else i should look for?
I cant get in to osx I just get the blue screen.
boot 132 is stuck in dvd drive
The only difference on my build is i have a Pioneer218 dvd burner SATA
dumppanic (53)error getting reference to iodevice tree
Do you have a 4870 or a 4890? Did you auto-update to 10.5.8? You can try using a DVI->VGA converter on the card and see if that changes anything.
You can use a paperclip to open the DVD burner (the small hole in the front panel).
Try booting with -x -f -v.
You can always do that fresh install can't you? Just boot off the Boot-132 CD like you did the very first time.
On September 12 2009 11:59 jacktheripper wrote:So, any updates on Snow Leopard? I'm keen to install it, but checking here for any details i should know
I will be using this guide to install SL:
http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=181903
I figured I can make it more approachable, but have not had time yet. School started up for me again =/
I can promise that it will happen eventually since I need to do it for my business, but I do not know when.
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for some reason i thought i couldnt install sorry about that. its installing nicely now.
Thanks again.
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i realized that my mobo was the ud3r and not the ud3lr hahaha. that was so stupid of me, but as soon as i put the ud3r kexts into OSX, everything works perfectly.
the ONLY little problem i have now is the CMOS. for some reason, booting into OSX resets the time in my BIOS to 4 hours too late. i can boot into win 7 a hundred times without the time changing, but as soon as i go into osx, it resets the time. the weird thing is that the time in OSX is always right, no matter what the bios says
sleep/hibernate/standby doesnt work in windows 7, but that doesnt bother me too much
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technology seriously hates me haha
neither things worked. the time issue doesnt work because servicemanager.exe doesnt show the appletime.exe file. infact, it only shows about half of the exe's in the system32 folder. it shows up when i put it into the windows folder, but not system32. ive tried running it as the administrator, changing all of my privileges to the highest settings, and changing the compatibility to vista/xp. nothing.
also, i installed the chipset drivers, but the sleep still doesnt work. the monitor shuts off and the computer stays on, but for whatever reason the monitor wont turn back on, even if its manually turned off and on again.
i always seem to have problems haha
thanks for the links though
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I had to copy the appletime.exe file into system32 twice for some reason. No idea why, but then it worked.
Try updating the video card drive by going to the manufacturer's website. also try setting the power settings back to default.
No idea why else sleep would not work =/
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10.6.1 installing as we speak. I have long since moved on to a significantly more sophisticated method of installing OS X and of maintaining drivers.
I will edit my original post to include Snow Leopard install information when I have all the bugs worked out. It will be slightly more difficult than the leopard install, if just because it has more steps.
The great news is that my current method of installing drivers makes them pretty much immune to updates. Also, this will be a native 64-bit install of SL.
Feel free to post what video card you have (if you deviated from the 4870 in the guide) and I will include the files that you need in my writeup.
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lol I don't even have snow leopard and I have an imac right now >.<
Is it worthy of an upgrade?
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its smaller and faster. if the price is not a concern then there is really no reason not to use it. Granted, ive only had it for about 2 hours ;p
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Suhweet! Very excited to see your new guide...
Can't wait to make the switch.
Thanks again
-malt
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Well...its almost done. Bonjour does not auto-start so file sharing and such is not working correctly. I think every other thing is working though. Probably get the guide up tomorrow or this weekend.
I recommend having an 8GB (or larger) external/flash drive. You can still use the boot-132 method though.
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Looking forward to seeing the SL method. I've got a nicely working Leopard install now so I'm hesitant to screw it up but I'd like to move to SL eventually.
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i want to update from the windows 7 RC to the retail version, but i dont want to mess up anything with the dual booting. it took way too much time and effort to set it up and it would suck really really hard if i have to redo it. i know i cant just upgrade and ill have to wipe the partition, so thats why im afraid.
what would be the best method to do this? i know this isnt a windows thread, but its really the only forum im on that could answer it.
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Sanya12364 Posts
Any news on 10.6.1? I want to know what I need to do.
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So this sounds Like an extremely stupid question but I looked at the Apple website to look for myself but I am either stupid or just not good at searching. Say I would want to buy mac OS X Leopard (I was looking on the site for a price but couldn't find it). About how much would the full version run me? (i could only find Snow Leopard Upgrades which were like 29.99) sorry for the noob question t.t;
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Hey Guys, sorry for the HUGE delay.
I have added some SL content to the original post.
I have also started to work on an SL install on a completely different set of hardware.
Sad Panda-
Just buy the upgrade DVD. It works as full retail for our purposes. It can do a full, clean install. thanks Apple!
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On November 05 2009 13:07 maleorderbride wrote:
Hey Guys, sorry for the HUGE delay.
I have added some SL content to the original post.
I have also started to work on an SL install on a completely different set of hardware.
Sad Panda-
Just buy the upgrade DVD. It works as full retail for our purposes. It can do a full, clean install. thanks Apple!
This probably makes me the happiest man on earth for the pure fact that I won't have to spend hundreds on an OS hahahaha thank you for the response aswell ill reread the op for the new content when I'm not on my mobile later  I intend on building this in month or so (atleast that's what I'm shooting for) so ill probably have some more questions somewhere down the line xD and if this thread is too old ill most probably just PM you maleorder just to not receive the banhammer for being a irresponsible white guy :D
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BTW, if people have specific SL driver questions you can ask them here. I have not written the guide yet, but that doesn't mean I haven't installed SL on dozens of systems already ;p
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Thanks man! Will give it whirl this weekend.
Question though:
If i am doing an upgrade, but you suggest a retail install, can I install SL full retail and maintain all my current settings and jazz or will it wipe all that stuff out?
-Malt
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It will wipe it out. You can certainly do an upgrade, but I think there might be ALOT of kext confusion.
You can do an archive and install of the old Leopard installation, but I am uncertain (and skeptical) of that working.
edit:
If you want to be a guinea pig for everyone else you can try to do an upgrade install. If you need the complete /system/library/extensions folder to be virgin, then I can probably upload a zip of it. You can install of them (it might take a bit), but then you should be kext-trouble free. Want to try that?
Just let me know what drives you have installed. I assume you did the entire essentials/gigabyte packages included in my OP. Any other drivers or optional installs?
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so if i wipe my current win7 partition and install the retail 7, then set my mac partition to active, will i be ok with chameleon and everything? i feel like osx and win 7 is a delicate balance on my machine and ill be so pissed if i have to redo it all haha
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Sanya12364 Posts
Awesome, I'll look into it!!!
Thanks maleorder!!
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well that didnt work. i formatted the win 7 partition and reinstalled. then, i went into the osx part with boot 132 and reinstalled chameleon. i set the osx partition to active from the win7 install disc command prompt, but now it wont boot. nothing happens when it goes to boot from the partition, which is where it would usually go to the loader gui. like i said, i can get into osx from the boot 132 disc, but i cant seem to get chameleon to work. any ideas?
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Hey! I would suggest disconnecting the OS X drive, THEN wiping/re-install Win 7. Win 7 is a bit more problematic than other versions of windows because it likes to put header information on the active drive (which is the OS X drive sometimes) which can be problematic.
After you finish the install plug it all back in, set the OS X/Cham drive to the primary booting drive and you should be all set! Remember, you need to boot Win 7 with the system reserved partition.
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is there a way to do it that doesnt involve me wiping everything out, because thats something i 100% cant do, seeing as my windows and osx partitions are on the same drive. i had it set up perfectly before using the one drive, so i dont see why it wouldnt work now. bummer
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Oh, well you can still do it. But it might need some repair work done after.
Just boot off the Win 7 DVD, install as normal, you just need to boot into win 7 after you finish and go to the diskmanagement utility and remove the active flag from the partition. That *should* be it! ;p
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fixed it. i manually reinstalled chameleon using the binary files and terminal and repaired the windows boot sector from the win7 dvd.
that saved me a hell of a lot of grief haha. if i can just figure out this annoying problem with my partitions trying to auto-play every time i boot into windows, then ill FINALLY be set. im so glad this thread exists
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Do you have macdrive installed? Is that what is doing it? If so, there is an option to turn that off (within Macdrive) I am pretty sure..
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theres no option to turn off auto-play or anything like that, but i looked up how to selectivly turn off auto-play and i edited the registry to not auto-play fixed drives. the problem started well after i first installed macdrive, so i figured it was something else. as long as i dont have to see the stupid autoplay box every time i boot up, im good. thanks
also, just a quick question for anyone that has windows 7 x64 installed. what's your ram usage? with 4 gigs, im idling at 1.33gb, which seems too high. i have it installed on another computer with 2gb of ram and it idles at around 700-800mb. i turned off all unnecessary services, including superfetch (everyone with the same problem said it was their problem) but the ram usage stays at a little above a gig and a quarter. i know this is an OSX/hackintosh thread, but im just curious
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That is not actually a "problem", but a feature. Win 7 and Vista will use more and more RAM, thus running slightly faster. I have had a 3+GB idle with 16GBs of total system RAM before.
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I'm thinking of making a Win7 + Mac OS "hackintosh.
Current desktop is getting in need of fresh install, and might aswell clean out the hardware and build it up again.
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As of a few days ago the new i5/i7 socket 1136 CPUs are supported by OS X. This means you can go DDR3 and current gen-architecture with a $90 motherboard and a $200 CPU instead of $240 for a good motherboard and $270 for the CPU. All the P55 boards support SLI/Crossfire, RAID 0/1/5/10, and similar high-level features that used to cost $200+.
As always, Gigabyte boards are superior for OS X builds. Something like this:
http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=10011100&prodlist=celebros
Then grab 8GBs of DDR3-1600Mhz (~$260ish right now, but should be ~$200 on black friday)
or their other p55 boards. That board can go on sale/rebate to as low as $90. So long as you do not need 12GBs of RAM p55 is a more realistic solution than the X58 boards.
If anyone wants to do a build with that board you can post in here and I will upload the files. The i5/i7 socket 1136 CPUs clock up to 3.8Ghz pretty easily as they are more mature than the socket 1336 920s and such. Basically, they use less power to do the same amount of work, so they overclock better.
edit:
my seminar papers are all due Dec. 17th, so the i5/i7 guide will come out after that date. 5 more months til I get my MA degree!
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For hackintosh builds do I have to buy the leopard CD or can I just buy the snow leopard upgrade? (I know that Windows 7 upgrade can be used for a fresh install).
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I finished building a hackintosh last night using your guide runs beautifully, thanks!
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You can just use the SL upgrade DVD.
Thanks shreppy! Glad to hear it!
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Hey guys,
Thank you very much for the post! i was so happy when i found it !
I have a little problem, i managed to boot with Leopard 10.5 but it says that it can not install it because i dont have 10.4 !?
When i try it with my Sl 10.6, screen stays black, cant even boot it ...
I even tried to boot with 10.4.10 that i got with my macbook, it restarts only!?
I have an Wolfdale E8400, same mobo with Ati 4830, memory 1066 ...
Thanks in advance for your comments
update: i have bios upgraded to latest F7 !
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Sounds like you do not have a retail 10.5 DVD?
Try booting the 10.6 installer with -x -f -v flags. If the install hangs somewhere for 10 minutes or so then take a pic of the screen (so I can read it) and post it here.
Normally, a black screen indicates a video kext issue. Since I am using the 4870 I would have thought the 4830 would have worked, but I guess not.
Do you have any GeForce cards you can use during the install? 6xxx-9xxx?
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Hey maleorderbride,
Thanks for your reply. I already thought that this post is dead.
I got my 10.5 dvd sent from Apple when i bought my macbook so it might not be the right one, i did not buy it in store. I will try to boot it with SL but i dont understand what u mean with -x -f -v flags ( newbie i guess, sorry).
I wish i had geforce somewhere around
Thanks a lot for all your help !
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I've tried several bootloaders (incl. the SL one in this thread and the Chameleon one) to install 10.6 on the Gigabyte EP45-UD3R motherboard. I have the ATI 4870 video card as well as three independent hard drives (one of them has windows, the other 2 are empty).
But every time I get the bootloaders to start up the 10.6 retail dvd, it shows the Apple splash screen and the little circular loading thing at the bottom. But after a minute or so, there's a "no symbol" that appears on top of the apple. And then the dvd stops spinning and it just hangs. Is there something I'm doing wrong?
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I'm having the same issue as well with the EP45-UD3R and 4870. Seems to hang on the AppleIntelCPUPowerManagement when booting off the 10.6 retail DVD. Any tips?
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Hey,
Fantastic guide been looking for something just like this for quite some time. About to buy my own hackintosh just one glitch, your video card is no longer available, just wondering for some good replacement cards and the steps i should change from yours.
was thinking something like this(gigabyte nvidia geforce 9800 gt 1gb): http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125286
Thanks so MUCH!!
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hi bean3669. i'm actually looking to sell my 4870 if you are interested.
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Well i just need one that will work with the newest games such as dragon age origins and modern warfare 2 and the like. Is it compatible with those? And is it used or?
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On November 30 2009 13:39 lylejensen wrote:I've tried several bootloaders (incl. the SL one in this thread and the Chameleon one) to install 10.6 on the Gigabyte EP45-UD3R motherboard. I have the ATI 4870 video card as well as three independent hard drives (one of them has windows, the other 2 are empty). But every time I get the bootloaders to start up the 10.6 retail dvd, it shows the Apple splash screen and the little circular loading thing at the bottom. But after a minute or so, there's a "no symbol" that appears on top of the apple. And then the dvd stops spinning and it just hangs. Is there something I'm doing wrong?
Do you have AHCI enabled in the BIOS? It sounds like you do not.
Bacteria-
You do need to have a retail DVD. The one from Apple that came with a computer will not work.
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On December 02 2009 10:35 ssleung wrote:I'm having the same issue as well with the EP45-UD3R and 4870. Seems to hang on the AppleIntelCPUPowerManagement when booting off the 10.6 retail DVD. Any tips?
Hmmm..that is not actually an error. How long have you waited at that line? One of the kexts cancels the AppleIntelCPUManagement.kext, so it is supposed to time out with 10.6.
Do you have access to a working Mac? You can build a new installer package using netkas' PC EFI 10.5 boot file (with native ATI support). The directions should be in the original PDF I posted. That is the actual method I use as I install on multiple boards and to make it work with different models all you do is copy and paste in a few files...
You need an 8GB flash drive (or hdd)
image of 10.6
basic kexts
DSDT.aml for your motherboard with CMOS reset fix
Chameleon 2 RC2
PC EFI 10.5
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just installed another 4gb or ram and a 1.5TB HDD. i love this machine
however, i noticed my cpu core temps have been going up. im pretty sure they would idle around 35 or so, but now they idle at around 45-47. i dont know when that jump happened, seeing as i dont consistently run the OCCT program, but the instruction book says it should be at 38, and i know thats where it used to be. theres a little bit of dust, but nothing bad at all, and the only thing i can think of is that id need to reapply thermal paste. only problem with that is i just built this computer not even 5 months ago. i didnt change anyting in the bios other than the specified OCing configuration on the front page. when i run the OCCT test, the temps get to about 64 and top out at 67-68. im almost positive that that they never got that high. i havent moved my computer to a new location or anything, and none of my fans are blocked. is this normal?
im thinking of just going back to my default BIOS settings for the time being
EDIT: well im a complete idiot and read an old post of mine here to see if i mentioned my previous temperatures. turns out my original OCCT test topped at 64deg, so 68 isnt too bad for my current test, id imagine. im leaving this post up just to make sure, though. i get really paranoid about these things haha
with my system back to the defaults (2.83ghz), my idle temps are 39-41
EDIT2: i opened it up and found that one of the pins on the molex connector going to the left case pannel fan was out of the socket. i got it working again and cleaned out the little bit of dust that was trapped in the heat sink. the cores went down around 2 degrees. however, when i ran the OCCT test, the temperatures topped out at 48 degrees (compared to the average of 60 i was getting with the 2.8 before i did this), which is a significant improvement and right back to where it used to be. time to OC back to 3.6 and run the test again...
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Glad it all worked out
You can also overclock to below 3.6 if need be. Say, FSB of 414 instead of 424 or the like. You can leave all the other settings the way they were.
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Per Haduken's request:
Here is everything needed for a installation using the EP31-DS3L or EP35-DS3L. It should support all Nvidia 7xxx, 8xxx, and 9xxx series video cards provided they do not have HDMI built-in or display ports built-in.
Boot CD image:
http://www.mediafire.com/?nzjhml0imhi
Then eject it and put in the SL DVD, wait 30 seconds, press F5.
Run the installer. Open Disk Utility and create two paritions at minimum. One, 1GB Partition called "Boot", 2nd partition called whatever.
Deselect languages and printer drivers. Install.
When the install finishes boot into with the CD. Then use the below files to complete the install:
http://www.mediafire.com/?4gmwuwjjmyy
You want to install Chameleon (and all drivers) to the Boot Partition.
You should have video, sound (set in preferences), sleep (enable Automatically wake after power failure in Energy settings), as well as a variety of other fixes.
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just out of curiosity, what kind of temps are you guys getting? assuming you all have the same HS, CPU, etc., post your average temperature readings if you want. also, make sure you specify whether you OC'd or not
OC at 3.2 ghz using OCCT for my readings, my average temp is around 40C idle and 68C with a full load.
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That is a bit warm. You could try lowering your voltages to see if you need them as high as they are.
You could also try cleaning. Those are the temps I normally get at 3.6Ghz with the Q9550.
68 is not dangerous though and is still within Intel specs.
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about a month ago, i cleaned it as much as i could without taking the heatsink off and definitely noticed a 5 degree decrease. i suspect the thermal paste, but its a huge pain in the ass to take the mobo off and disassemble everything. ill reapply some if it starts getting bad, but ill try lowering the voltages for now. i thought it was a little hot.thanks
edit: i havent checked my temps since this morning,, but after lowering the voltage to 1.30, i get an average of 43C idling. i have good airflow and everything is surprisingly clean. as long as i keep it under 50 or so ill be fine, right?
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Under 71.4 is fine. I just thought that seemed high given that your overclock was not ridiculously high.
Ideally, if you have time to run a program like OCCT under windows, then you should lower voltages until you can not boot into windows. Then, raise the voltage until it boots into windows, but crashes as soon as OCCT starts. Then you only need about 3-4 more bumps, typically, to have stability. Stability is defined as running OCCT for 8 hours without error.
This often results in a lower voltage than 1.3V, but unless you are going for the maximum overclock, enjoy tinkering to "optimize" your system, or just have a ton of time on your hands you are probably better served by doing a high and safe guesstimation of 1.3 or so. It could be more efficient, but its stable and within Intel specs, so good 'nough.
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Just out of curiosity. You want to tell me that OS X can't be installed on a normal computer without the need of 3rd party software? Seems pretty strange in this day and age...
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I'm not sure I understand the question.
You can not install OS X on non Apple hardware without 3rd party software and drivers. Apple is not exactly a beneficent organization.
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All I wanted to know.
Seems strange that they even sell their OS on a CD/DVD.
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The only bother to sell it for upgrade purposes I would imagine. It is weird though.
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now the idle temp of my GPU shot up 4 degrees out of nowhere. it always idled at 62C, and now i wont go below 66C. when gaming, it now runs at 71C, and it never would go above 65C before that. my computer has been off for hours and i reset the bios to the defaults just to be sure. it was totally fine yesterday. theres no dust or wires obstructing the vent for the card at all. wtf is going on with my computer?
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Don't worry about the GPU. That is rated up to 90C. It might even be higher than 90C.
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i know its not going to fry the card, but thats a pretty big jump in temperature, seeing as 62C was always solid while idling since the day i put it together. i wouldnt even really care, but its almost a 10 degree increase while gaming, and i dont want to it keep going up
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Well, since it is such a sudden jump, maybe one of the side or front case fans got unplugged or stopped working? You could always take the card out and clean it/examine it.
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figured it out. the case fans are all fine, as is everything else, aside from the video card. my computer has been gradually getting louder and louder recently. at first i thought i was over reacting, but then a friend came into my room and commented about how he never noticed the sound of my computer until yesterday. i guess hearing it every day made unaware of just how loud its been getting.
the fan in the video card is the culprit (ati 4870). with all the case fans unplugged, theres a loud buzzy hum thats coming from the card. i thought it was the HS, but the noise is apparent in the second or so before the fan starts spinning on startup. i took out the card, which was almost totally dust free, and couldnt visually find anything wrong with it. i was tempted to open it up, but with my luck id end up destroying it somehow.
also, i always wondered why the video card faces down. usually the flashy graphics and the fan face up on video cards, so i find it really strange that this one doesnt.
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This thread ...Is ... gold
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On February 09 2010 05:13 DorF wrote:
This thread ...Is ... gold
And gold is power ;p
If you are doing a new build my method for doing SL drivers is a bit different from most of the OP, as you probably noticed.
Basically, buy any Gigabyte motherboard and tell me what standard (2xDVI or 1xDVI 1xVGA) video card you have and I will just upload every file that you need.
I guess I could start editing OP with each new motherboard as well.
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On December 04 2009 04:01 maleorderbride wrote:Show nested quote +On November 30 2009 13:39 lylejensen wrote:I've tried several bootloaders (incl. the SL one in this thread and the Chameleon one) to install 10.6 on the Gigabyte EP45-UD3R motherboard. I have the ATI 4870 video card as well as three independent hard drives (one of them has windows, the other 2 are empty). But every time I get the bootloaders to start up the 10.6 retail dvd, it shows the Apple splash screen and the little circular loading thing at the bottom. But after a minute or so, there's a "no symbol" that appears on top of the apple. And then the dvd stops spinning and it just hangs. Is there something I'm doing wrong? Do you have AHCI enabled in the BIOS? It sounds like you do not. Bacteria- You do need to have a retail DVD. The one from Apple that came with a computer will not work.
I have all the BIOS tweaks fixed up (according to them:
http://lifehacker.com/5360150/install-snow-leopard-on-your-hackintosh-pc-no-hacking-required) and tried loading it off a USB drive, still won't work. It just freezes at the apple loading page.
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What hardware do you have: motherboard, video card?
AHCI is enabled, right? And do you actually mean freeze or do you mean it just spins infinitely.
You can boot with the -v flag so you can see what it hangs on. Then post a screenshot.
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These are my specs:
Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3R (Intel)
CPU: Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550
Graphics: XFX HD-487A-ZWFC Radeon HD 4870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card
Memory: G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-8500CL5D-4GBPK
I also have three hard drives at the moment:
- 300GB - Windows XP 64 bit installed on it (NTFS)
- 1000GB - Just storing files (NTFS)
- 320GB - unformatted (was gonna try to get Snow Leopard on here)
It is AHCI enabled:
I also set it to boot from the USB drive/hard drive (following Lifehacker's tutorial):
This is the place where the spinning thing below the Apple keeps going for a few minutes, but then freezes.
It will load this screen first:
Then goes here, and that's when it happens and halts. I never get beyond this screen:
How would I boot in -v flag mode? what's that?
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Ok, so first. You should use my instruction, not lifehackers. If I remember correctly he uses a different motherboard, the UD4P or some such. His files are a bit old anyway.
Lets just scratch the USB install since I am not sure if you have a working Mac to use.
Snow Leopard Guide for the above hardware: (Thank BlackOSX for everything)
Download this Boot-132 CD:
http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?mq4y4jmgmyj
Download these support files:
http://www.filefactory.com/file/a07534f/n/Support_Files_for_Blackosx_SL_Install_v2_2_zip
Download a general PDF guide:
http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?tm0zjhoynzt
Suggested method:
Burn the Boot-132 CD to CD and boot off it. After it loads, same as before, eject the Boot-132 CD and insert a Snow Leopard retail DVD in the same drive. Press F5 to rescan the drives and then proceed to do a retail install.
I suggest selecting "customize" during the install and deselecting the print drivers and language packages. It speeds up the install and reduces the chance of errors.
I also partition the disk into 2 partitions. the first 1 GB "boot" partition and the 2nd the Snow Leopard partition. I install Chameleon and all drivers on the boot partition. This allows me to completely re-install SL without having to re-do the drivers.
After you finish the basic install there are additional instructions within the boot CD and within the PDF guide.
Post-Install:
I suggest installing the Chameleon 2.pkg per the instructions, but you should replace the boot file with Netkas' PCI EFI 10.6 instead:
http://netkas.org/?p=372
Then just follow the PDF. You need the following in Extra:
Extensions (with kexts in it)
DSDT.aml
com.Apple.Boot.plist
SMBIOS.plist
If you do not have a retail SL dvd (or a working burned image) then we have to do a USB install, but to do so you need to have access to a mac in order to install chameleon on your USB drive and add my /Extra files.
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Okay, I booted off the CD like you said. Took out the CD. Inserted the Snow Leopard disc. Pressed F5, then selected the Snow Leopard Install DVD.
It'll go to the loading screen again, with the apple and the spinning thing. But after a few minutes, this "no sign" will pop up:
And it will hang after that.
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I know you said that you have AHCI enabled, but that screen almost always means that AHCI is not enabled.
Unplug all HDDs except the SL drive. Plug it into the first SATA port (use the orange ports, not the purple).
Plug the SATA DVD drive into the 2nd orange port. (Gigabyte calls the first port 0, the 2nd is 1)
Then boot off the CD and do the swap as you did before.
I am uncertain what else can be going wrong, since there is not really any room for variance here.
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I am using an IDE dvd drive. Could that be the problem?
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I booted with -v flag and here's the result:
If I let it hang, it will just repeatedly say "Still waiting for root"
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Hmmm...the root device problem is from either:
a) not having AHCI enabled
b) not having a SATA HDD plugged into one of the first two slots
You have no actual error, just the install disc is not finding your HDD. =/
Lets try this:
Restore the default BIOS settings, then enable AHCI and nothing else (unless your RAM needs additional voltage). Then try the CD.
If that does not work then I suggest just re-checking your SATA cables and what ports they are plugged into. Again, you need to have the HDD in one of the first two orange SATA ports.
Then try to boot off the CD again.
edit;
Also, the IDE DVD drive will cause problems, but you should still be able to install. I have used an IDE install drive plenty of times.
I stopped using IDE DVD drives because they can cause kernel panics occasionally when using the drive.
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I restored to BIOS defaults and rechecked the cables and everything. Tried it all again. No go.
I noticed that when AHCI mode is enabled, the hard drive is not detected when I go into the BIOS -> Standard CMOS Features
It just says:
IDE Channel 0 Master [None]
IDE Channel 0 Slave [None]
IDE Channel 1 Master [None]
IDE Channel 1 Slave [None]
IDE Channel 2 Master [None]
IDE Channel 3 Master [None]
It'll only show up when it's in regular IDE mode.
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Okay, so i have the following components:
Operating system: Windows 7
CPU type: AMD Athlon(tm) II X4 620 Processor
CPU Speed (GHz):2.614
System memory (GB):3.999
Graphics card model: ASUS EAH5770 Series
Desktop resolution:1024x768
Hard disk size (GB):232.876
along with these other things, (not listed on blizzard site):
Mobo: ASRock M3A770DE AM3 AMD 770 ATX AMD Motherboard
Case: Antec Nine Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
PSU: Antec NEO ECO 520C 520W Continuous Power ATX12V v2.3(don't worry i'm not trying to dual boot with this PSU)
CPU Fan: COOLER MASTER RR-H101-22FK-RA 80mm Long life sleeve bearing CPU Cooler
Don't worry, im getting another monitor in may.
Anyway, i just recently finished building my first ever custom rig, and i am planning on getting into more gaming and hopefully photoshop music and a lot of other cool nerdy things.
Which is why i bought that case so i can expand (add another video card, hard drive, blue ray or some shit) if i want to. Also its badass and i had a few extra bucks.
So the real point is Should i overclock, to what extent, and how do i do it, and can that heatsink handle it.
Thanks in advance
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On March 19 2010 12:30 lylejensen wrote:
I restored to BIOS defaults and rechecked the cables and everything. Tried it all again. No go.
I noticed that when AHCI mode is enabled, the hard drive is not detected when I go into the BIOS -> Standard CMOS Features
It just says:
IDE Channel 0 Master [None]
IDE Channel 0 Slave [None]
IDE Channel 1 Master [None]
IDE Channel 1 Slave [None]
IDE Channel 2 Master [None]
IDE Channel 3 Master [None]
It'll only show up when it's in regular IDE mode.
Not showing up in AHCI mode is normal, so no worries there.
It must be the DVD burner being IDE. I used IDE with my leopard installs, but it has been quite sometime since I used one with SL. Anyway you can borrow a SATA burner for the install?
Or buy this: (If in the US)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827151192&nm_mc=AFC-SlickDeals&cm_mmc=AFC-SlickDeals-_-NA-_-NA-_-NA
Promo Code for free shipping:
EMCYPZX36
I can not imagine what else to try. This is definitely linked to AHCI mode, but you clearly have it enabled.
The only other option I can think of is using an 8GB USB stick to do the install, but you need access to a real Mac or another hackintosh to do that.
On March 19 2010 12:42 Jlab wrote:
Okay, so i have the following components:
Operating system: Windows 7
CPU type: AMD Athlon(tm) II X4 620 Processor
CPU Speed (GHz):2.614
System memory (GB):3.999
Graphics card model: ASUS EAH5770 Series
Desktop resolution:1024x768
Hard disk size (GB):232.876
along with these other things, (not listed on blizzard site):
Mobo: ASRock M3A770DE AM3 AMD 770 ATX AMD Motherboard
Case: Antec Nine Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
PSU: Antec NEO ECO 520C 520W Continuous Power ATX12V v2.3(don't worry i'm not trying to dual boot with this PSU)
CPU Fan: COOLER MASTER RR-H101-22FK-RA 80mm Long life sleeve bearing CPU Cooler
Don't worry, im getting another monitor in may.
Anyway, i just recently finished building my first ever custom rig, and i am planning on getting into more gaming and hopefully photoshop music and a lot of other cool nerdy things.
Which is why i bought that case so i can expand (add another video card, hard drive, blue ray or some shit) if i want to. Also its badass and i had a few extra bucks.
So the real point is Should i overclock, to what extent, and how do i do it, and can that heatsink handle it.
Thanks in advance
Yea, that monitor does kind of blow ;p
You also have a $20 CPU cooler. That will limit your overclocking, but you will be able to do some.
It has been quite sometime since I over clocked an AMD processor, so I am afraid I can give you no specifics at all. You should just start raising the multipler by one and then booting into the OS and running OCCT for 20 minutes. If temps look good (below 70C) and you don't have instability then raise it again.
Once you get instability, but are still below temp threshold, go into the BIOS and raise the CPU vCore voltage slightly. Continue to do this until you are close to 70C after 20 minutes. Then test OCCT for 8 hours. You should be able to get a 300-400MHz overclock.
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Awesome. thanks ill do that.
in the future when i have the money and time to research ill probably get a new CPU fan. But for now ill bump it up a little bit,
Thank you.
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Hey Maleorder... I know this thread has died signifigantly but I am looking for the original 'mobshackintoshstuff' link from the original guide. For some reason I didn't save it like I though I did... You still have it handy?
Also, looking for a link to the boot loader for the Snow Leopard guide since the one here seems to have gone private... Any help would be appreciated.
-Maltice
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