EPTI was also thinking about the brand fetishism thing today. I think, or would like to think it's the reason some people don't post brand lists with a fit. Cuz often people are so attached to accepted labels that they they fail to judge the fit itself. Again I think SF handles this well, they'll call out a bad all EG, all CCP or w/e fit if it sucks, no matter the label behind it. But on SZ, you at least have to be wearing the labels on their list to even be up for consideration. And that's incredibly hypocritical and destructive when they fixate on labels at least as much as the fit in themselves, faust again being an example.
Men's Fashion Thread - Page 317
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zulu_nation8
China26351 Posts
I was also thinking about the brand fetishism thing today. I think, or would like to think it's the reason some people don't post brand lists with a fit. Cuz often people are so attached to accepted labels that they they fail to judge the fit itself. Again I think SF handles this well, they'll call out a bad all EG, all CCP or w/e fit if it sucks, no matter the label behind it. But on SZ, you at least have to be wearing the labels on their list to even be up for consideration. And that's incredibly hypocritical and destructive when they fixate on labels at least as much as the fit in themselves, faust again being an example. | ||
lichter
1001 YEARS KESPAJAIL22272 Posts
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zulu_nation8
China26351 Posts
Also andy you don't have to respond but you seem to have been doing this for a long time and are probably one of the older posters on one of the fashion forums. I appreciate that you didn't turn me away from color when I wanted to kop a pair of visvim skagways, otherwise I would've been permanently scarred. | ||
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phosej
173 Posts
http://www.styleforum.net/t/449869/for-sale-mmm-margiela-side-zip-ankle--sz-42 Price seems kinda high, not sure about sizing, I'm 42 in MMM gats, 41 cp Achilles low, 9 Nike... | ||
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Juliette
United States6003 Posts
Let me know how Seamless is for you. I totally want to discuss it. The in-class discussion I had was very oriented to the AA-work-migration aspect rather than the menswear I was interested in. the feel I got overall was the way fashion gives itself an aura - you see it in the brand preferences of people who are "into fashion". But in reality those designers need those auras to put together negative or barely even profit margins. Unless they're at the top. I had a cool discussion with the prof about the need for those designers to join big companies, aka Wang + Balenciaga, Plokhov+HL to supplement their mainline because of those margins. In addition to the exposure it nets them of course. Not to mention the nameless people behind them - one thing that came out of Seamless was the need for skilled workers/patternmakers, factories for mass production, etc. I can give thoughts on how those relate to Asian-Americans too, if you're interrsted. | ||
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Juliette
United States6003 Posts
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zulu_nation8
China26351 Posts
- Asians run the sweat shops yes, even Doo Ri pays other asians to make her stuff. - Why the f is Plokhov making generic goth ninja stuff now when he was doing something much better and unique before? - The documentary seemed to have been commissioned by Vogue, so they couldn't poke too hard, but it still seemed obvious that the decision in picking the winners was almost completely a business one, which is unfortunate but I guess the reality of the industry. - The documentary didn't really get into the designs themselves except for Cloak's tailoring, jealous that Sarah Jessica Parker has a bespoke Cloak tux. - In a perfect world, artists can let their work speak for themselves, but in fashion where the business side is as if not more important than the aesthetic, designers don't have that luxury. It's again an unfortunately reality but I can live with it. Even though the Proenza Schouler guys were my least favorite, I'd have no trouble buying their clothes if it was good and affordable. - Surprised to find the couple were the ones who took over HL after HL left. Also that there were no mentions of Geller at all. - Joining big companies even for purely business reasons is fine, but they should really still do their own thing in their own lines, again I can't understand why Plokhov is designing the stuff he is now. - There are too many labels and too much clothes. - Parker Posey sighting was cool. What did you want to discuss? | ||
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phosej
173 Posts
zulu, this quote might shed some light on margiela: "No, you're wrong, the motif of white paint over everything is a much deeper part of MMM's DNA and is a way to put everythng on the same neutral level; found objects, old furniture, new luxurious jackets, chandeliers etc.. In other words the label erases historical references or social references and starts with a fresh base, making items it's own by making them empty canvases. No content and even the destruction of content as an instantly recognizable design touch. Quite clever really." | ||
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lichter
1001 YEARS KESPAJAIL22272 Posts
On January 12 2015 10:03 Juliette wrote: lich how's the ol shirt? shirts arrived faster than i expected. lovely shirts. great texture and feel. i know OL usually have this slightly boxy anti fit but i thought it fit perfectly. my shoulders are wide for my size so i usually end up getting shirts that are slightly large with long sleeves, but the OL shirts fit spot on. so i'd highly recommend them to anyone with wide shoulders or big arms. lovely buttons. i like them more than my ymc or gitman shirts. | ||
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zulu_nation8
China26351 Posts
![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/PYeXagv.jpg) ![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/1N8IA1V.jpg) | ||
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Pulselol
Canada1628 Posts
my pair is pretty fucking beat now lol | ||
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CorsairHero
Canada9491 Posts
for those that want to take advantage of our crap loonie | ||
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CorsairHero
Canada9491 Posts
cool stuff there | ||
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andyrau
13015 Posts
On January 19 2015 11:32 zulu_nation8 wrote: wait what rick+? To clarify, peasant, as I use the word, having come from LoL, basically just refers to anything bad and I don't like, there's no discrimination based on class or anything sensitive, just a slang. SF is the most accepting out of all the major forums in my experience. I was also thinking about the brand fetishism thing today. I think, or would like to think it's the reason some people don't post brand lists with a fit. Cuz often people are so attached to accepted labels that they they fail to judge the fit itself. Again I think SF handles this well, they'll call out a bad all EG, all CCP or w/e fit if it sucks, no matter the label behind it. But on SZ, you at least have to be wearing the labels on their list to even be up for consideration. And that's incredibly hypocritical and destructive when they fixate on labels at least as much as the fit in themselves, faust again being an example. some brands just don't mesh well and the styles clearly clash. for an extreme example, if you're going to pair lands end chinos with an undercover perfecto or whatever, that shit simply doesn't fly. it's not so simple as saying, yea the chinos are cheap garbage that's why it doesn't go with an expensive (+ Show Spoiler + overrated wearing particular clothing makes an outfit fall into one of many preset molds that are often defined by specific garments. while a lot of ubiquitous clothes can span the divide, others are so firmly entrenched that wearing two differently poised articles with vastly different connotations simply make the overall aesthetic so incongruous that the first emotion that people have is negative. obviously this only speaks to people that understand what's going on - the average joe will see recognize and associate wearing a suit with tennis shoes is 'wrong', but they won't instantly perceive the 'error' in wearing shit like a polo with biker denim of course the clashing could be intentional and manipulated to achieve a certain vibe, but more often than not, the person simply doesn't understand. On January 19 2015 11:55 zulu_nation8 wrote: Also andy you don't have to respond but you seem to have been doing this for a long time and are probably one of the older posters on one of the fashion forums. I appreciate that you didn't turn me away from color when I wanted to kop a pair of visvim skagways, otherwise I would've been permanently scarred. if I saw your post back in 2011 i would've definitely said no and I feel like I'm a lot less knowledgeable than you think I am On January 19 2015 16:09 Juliette wrote: I had a cool discussion with the prof about the need for those designers to join big companies, aka Wang + Balenciaga, Plokhov+HL to supplement their mainline because of those margins. In addition to the exposure it nets them of course. Not to mention the nameless people behind them - one thing that came out of Seamless was the need for skilled workers/patternmakers, factories for mass production, etc. I can give thoughts on how those relate to Asian-Americans too, if you're interrsted. the fashion industry is one of the hardest markets to break into honestly designers under different labels will create some of their best work; ghesquiere under balenciaga was amazing, lagerfield under chanel, ford under gucci, as was raf under jil sander. for some reason forcing them outside their familiar boxes and making them design in accordance with a guideline based on an existing brand aesthetic produces unparalleled results. I'm not anywhere near artsy & informed enough to comment on the creative process that happens when artists are forced into this role, so I can only comment on the cause and effect. ofc this isn't to say all designers forced into these positions will find similar success, but the ones who do, will find that their careers are often defined by their tenure at these labels. On January 20 2015 13:26 phosej wrote: zulu, this quote might shed some light on margiela: "No, you're wrong, the motif of white paint over everything is a much deeper part of MMM's DNA and is a way to put everythng on the same neutral level; found objects, old furniture, new luxurious jackets, chandeliers etc.. In other words the label erases historical references or social references and starts with a fresh base, making items it's own by making them empty canvases. No content and even the destruction of content as an instantly recognizable design touch. Quite clever really." this sounds like something fuuma would say lol | ||
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greggy
United Kingdom1483 Posts
spending too much time on fashion forums, andy | ||
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ZeroChrome
Canada1001 Posts
It's too bad CAD isn't worth anything right now. Wanted to cop some stuff but that exchange rate at the final checkout is too disheartening. EDIT: grrr week after I buy some chelseas the ones I was drooling over pop up... http://www.grailed.com/listings/54453-saint-laurent-saint-laurent-chelsea-boots | ||
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CorsairHero
Canada9491 Posts
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lichter
1001 YEARS KESPAJAIL22272 Posts
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greggy
United Kingdom1483 Posts
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zulu_nation8
China26351 Posts
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