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9 months ago, I bought a brand new Jaguar F-Type Convertible. That was a terrible decision. Yes, the car is kind of fun, but for a variety of details I won't get into, it's not actually that fun. This blog will be more about car financials and getting a better deal.
My Jaguar deal was pure shit - about $31,500 prepaid and $340 a month in order to keep in communication with the bank so that they don't feel as though I'm running off with the car. This is actually terrible for a 2 year lease - essentially half my payment is interest with a $52,000 residual. I was dumb enough to take it, but you should never take a deal like this. When you're paying that much up front, they should give you a damn good deal and my lease for 24 months was basically 60% of the value of the car.
Now fast forward to today. I decide I'm getting a 4 door. So I'm checking out various dealerships before deciding Audi has the best options and deals available due to being a repeat customer (they have nice 2nd time customer benefits). At first, they offered me $18k on a $37k Audi A3 2.0L. You might notice the proportion is rather close to that of the F-Type, although it's not as high. Actually, this offer is insulting. Don't ever take a deal like this. Eventually they went all the way down to walking out with the A3 for under $10k upfront. Yes that's right, they went from an $18k prepaid lease to under $10k. This is a proportion of 27% of the car's value, which for a car like the A3 is quite reasonable. They had a lot of them and need to move inventory. If this were where the story ended, that would be that. But nope.
I wanted an S4. Now here we run into a problem - the S4 is in extremely limited supply, and the lease specials on it ran out back in September. After some negotiation, I was offered it at $904 per month for 36 months after tax with 0 down, just the first and last months upfront. Keep in mind dealerships have competition for you - there's other buyers. So we introduced a bit of competitions among dealerships. The dealership we went to was not the one we bought the R8 at, so we go over to THAT dealership, and tell them to beat that offer and we'll walk in today. Of course we said the offer was $800/month instead of $904 We end up with $719/month for 36 months with 0 down, which is about an average deal but not bad given the credit history and how many cars are on the account.
So in short, don't jump on the first deal you get. Always walk out of the tank - let the waters swirl and let competing deals jump in. Give dealers an ultimatum - you've got an offer, and if they beat it you're going to go buy now, and if not, then you're taking your business elsewhere. They can tell when you're serious about buying. Don't feel bad about wasting a dealer's time, only to take the deal elsewhere. It's your money. Make them fight for it.
P.S. Fuck the F-Type, the deal was so bad it's better for me to get rid of it now than to finish the lease. That's how bad Jaguar financing is. Don't go British if you're in the US unless you want buyer's remorse later. They don't even have performance that is worth the money anyways, as I've found out first hand. The most illogical thing is how the front doesn't angle up slightly, so enjoy having the headache of constant maneuvering in order to not scrape the front of your car on the ground.
+ Show Spoiler [Obligatory Pics] +
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Not to rain on your parade too much here, but I was expecting some "buying" experience in this blog. Leasing a new car is completely different than the purchasing as the leasee is basically paying for the new-car smell every two years. If having that new car is important to you personally or professionally then it can be worth it, but your paying for the novelty. Also, lease rates are much more volatile and dependent on credit history when compared to auto loan rates. Being in the market for a new(er) car myself soon, I was hoping to hear some give-and-take experience.
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On January 12 2015 09:18 Kronen wrote: Not to rain on your parade too much here, but I was expecting some "buying" experience in this blog. Leasing a new car is completely different than the purchasing as the leasee is basically paying for the new-car smell every two years. If having that new car is important to you personally or professionally then it can be worth it, but your paying for the novelty. Also, lease rates are much more volatile and dependent on credit history when compared to auto loan rates. Being in the market for a new(er) car myself soon, I was hoping to hear some give-and-take experience.
You can do the same for purchasing cars. Just make the dealerships compete and be extremely aggressive about it. They're going to shoot insulting offers at you until you make them bleed for it. Although granted if you're buying a car, first of all I would never buy a new car because that's just financially sily - if you want new just lease it, get a damn good rate and then buy it out later if you really want to, which you probably won't. Under the assumption that you're going for a 2-3 year old car (in order to avoid the really heavy depreciation without being too old), then it really depends on the exact car. You can check online for deals and such to get a better idea of the price.
As for how to get the most competition between dealerships, again this depends on the car. There tends to be much more competitions intra-brand than inter-brand for dealerships, so for example if I show an Audi dealer a deal on an E350, he won't be as much moved on an A6 as if I came to him with a deal from another Audi dealer on the same type of A6. The thing that dealers will always want to do is to get you to sign and drive off with the car, because once you do that you have no recourse.
There's another little trick you can do to make sure they give you the best damn deal possible. Dealerships tend to be open after banks close. Go there before the banks close, get approved on a car that is 10k+ below the price of the car you want, and then after banks are closed, change the car you want. Tell them you want to walk out with it today, that they HAVE to get you the deal because you want it now - not tomorrow, NOW, and that you are ready to pay - but only if they hit certain price targets. Again, do your research on what that price target probably should be, although they'll probably give you 150% to 200% of the real rate to begin with.
Thing is, after you've made them bleed to the max and give you a "crazy" deal, you're not done. Oh no the banks are now closed and they can't approve your new deal, because your price is now outside of the price range they approved. So the dealership will have to call you in the morning to try to clear it.
Now that you've got a "crazy" deal, go to another dealer first thing in the morning and bring them that offer. Do your research overnight to find a dealer who is likely to beat the deal. Then, once you're there, chances are they will beat that offer because the "crazy" deal you think you got last night is not actually a crazy deal. Then you can tell the original dealership that unfortunately you chose to buy another car once they call .
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United States24501 Posts
I get the gist of your blog, but reading it I'm kind of confused. I'll point out my confusion so you can clarify for me, and possibly for other readers.
On January 12 2015 09:06 EtherealDeath wrote: 9 months ago, I bought a brand new Jaguar F-Type Convertible. That was a terrible decision. Yes, the car is kind of fun, but for a variety of details I won't get into, it's not actually that fun. This blog will be more about car financials and getting a better deal. Were you able to test drive it?
My Jaguar deal was pure shit - about $31,500 prepaid and $340 a month For how many months? Also, I thought you said you bought a brand new F-Type Convertible. You leased it instead?
in order to keep in communication with the bank so that they don't feel as though I'm running off with the car. Huh? What does this even mean? The reason why you make monthly payments on a leased car is so that the bank doesn't think you are running away with it? I've never leased a car so I have no idea what you are getting at here.
This is actually terrible for a 2 year lease - essentially half my payment is interest with a $52,000 residual. What does this mean?
I was dumb enough to take it, but you should never take a deal like this. When you're paying that much up front, they should give you a damn good deal and my lease for 24 months Ah, 24 months / 2 yrs
was basically 60% of the value of the car.
Now fast forward to today. I decide I'm getting a 4 door. Did you get rid of the Jaguar? Do you still have it?
So I'm checking out various dealerships before deciding Audi has the best options and deals available due to being a repeat customer (they have nice 2nd time customer benefits). Were there other cars that you were interested in besides Audi, if you could get a good 'deal'? It seems like you under-emphasized the importance of a good deal on the Jaguar and now you are overcompensating by making the quality of the 'deal' the only major factor in choosing your next car...
At first, they offered me $18k on a $37k Audi A3 2.0L. To buy? Up front to lease? If so, what is the monthly payment? Do you mean total, when adding up the money down and payments over life of lease?
Also, where is the 'nice 2nd time customer benefit'?
You might notice the proportion is rather close to that of the F-Type, although it's not as high. What was the total value of the F Type?
Actually, this offer is insulting. Don't ever take a deal like this. Eventually they went all the way down to walking out with the A3 for under $10k upfront. Yes that's right, they went from an $18k prepaid lease to under $10k. With the same monthly payment?
This is a proportion of 27% of the car's value, which for a car like the A3 is quite reasonable. They had a lot of them and need to move inventory. If this were where the story ended, that would be that. But nope.
I wanted an S4. Why were you getting quotes on an A3 if you wanted an S4 instead? Your last couple of sentences implied you were going to take the A4 if the dealership didn't screw things up... but apparently it's you that screwed things up!?
Now here we run into a problem - the S4 is in extremely limited supply, and the lease specials on it ran out back in September. After some negotiation, I was offered it at $904 per month Jesus you can rent a house for that much in some places :p
for 36 months after tax with 0 down, just the first and last months upfront. Keep in mind dealerships have competition for you - there's other buyers. So we Who is 'we'?
introduced a bit of competitions among dealerships. The dealership we went to was not the one we bought the R8 at, so we go over to THAT dealership, and tell them to beat that offer and we'll walk in today. Of course we said the offer was $800/month instead of $904 Do you recommend lying about offers like this?
We end up with $719/month for 36 months with 0 down, which is about an average deal but not bad given the credit history and how many cars are on the account.
So in short, don't jump on the first deal you get. Always walk out of the tank - let the waters swirl and let competing deals jump in. Give dealers an ultimatum - you've got an offer, and if they beat it you're going to go buy now, and if not, then you're taking your business elsewhere. They can tell when you're serious about buying. Don't feel bad about wasting a dealer's time, only to take the deal elsewhere. It's your money. Make them fight for it. Good advice.
P.S. Fuck the F-Type, the deal was so bad it's better for me to get rid of it now than to finish the lease. Oh, so you do still have it.
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Show nested quote +On January 12 2015 09:06 EtherealDeath wrote: 9 months ago, I bought a brand new Jaguar F-Type Convertible. That was a terrible decision. Yes, the car is kind of fun, but for a variety of details I won't get into, it's not actually that fun. This blog will be more about car financials and getting a better deal. Were you able to test drive it? Nope lol I'm retarded.
For how many months? Also, I thought you said you bought a brand new F-Type Convertible. You leased it instead? Show nested quote +in order to keep in communication with the bank so that they don't feel as though I'm running off with the car. Huh? What does this even mean? The reason why you make monthly payments on a leased car is so that the bank doesn't think you are running away with it? I've never leased a car so I have no idea what you are getting at here. They were concerned I was leasing the car only to ship it to Australia or China, where I could flip the car for a multiplier profit.
Show nested quote +This is actually terrible for a 2 year lease - essentially half my payment is interest with a $52,000 residual. What does this mean? The residual is the buyout after the lease period is over, should you happen to stick with the car for the entire lease period. So basically, either you pay the residual at the end of the lease or that's that and the car is now the bank's.
Show nested quote +I was dumb enough to take it, but you should never take a deal like this. When you're paying that much up front, they should give you a damn good deal and my lease for 24 months Ah, 24 months / 2 yrs Show nested quote +was basically 60% of the value of the car.
Now fast forward to today. I decide I'm getting a 4 door. Did you get rid of the Jaguar? Do you still have it? Yes I still have it.
Show nested quote + So I'm checking out various dealerships before deciding Audi has the best options and deals available due to being a repeat customer (they have nice 2nd time customer benefits). Were there other cars that you were interested in besides Audi, if you could get a good 'deal'? It seems like you under-emphasized the importance of a good deal on the Jaguar and now you are overcompensating by making the quality of the 'deal' the only major factor in choosing your next car... A deal is a combination of performance vs price. The S4 has great performance, as it is has really good control as well as a pretty good interior, and a 4.4 second 0-60 so overall it's great on the pure performance side, and Audi financing made it good on the financial side for me as well compared to my other options.
To buy? Up front to lease? If so, what is the monthly payment? Do you mean total, when adding up the money down and payments over life of lease? In this case what was proposed was a 100% upfront payment to lease, namely where we pay the full $18k upfront and then there are no more payments for the duration of the 24 month lease. Instead, what the dealer brought the offer down to after copious amounts of indignation was just under $10k upfront, and then no more payments for the 24 months of the lease In essence he cut the price by nearly half.
Also, where is the 'nice 2nd time customer benefit'? That's complicated. For the S4 there's a straight up $1,500 reduction on MSRP before calculating the terms of the lease. In addition it becomes easier to be approved by Audi financial, and if you're a really really long time customer you may get a certain percentage discount (I'm not there yet), although I did benefit time-wise from easier approval. Basically I shouldn't be getting the deal I got unless I had over 800 credit and was older, or had some sort of Audi contacts.
Show nested quote +You might notice the proportion is rather close to that of the F-Type, although it's not as high. What was the total value of the F Type? $78k
Show nested quote +Actually, this offer is insulting. Don't ever take a deal like this. Eventually they went all the way down to walking out with the A3 for under $10k upfront. Yes that's right, they went from an $18k prepaid lease to under $10k. With the same monthly payment? Yep, both full upfront payment with $0/month thereafter.
Show nested quote +This is a proportion of 27% of the car's value, which for a car like the A3 is quite reasonable. They had a lot of them and need to move inventory. If this were where the story ended, that would be that. But nope.
I wanted an S4. Why were you getting quotes on an A3 if you wanted an S4 instead? Your last couple of sentences implied you were going to take the A4 if the dealership didn't screw things up... but apparently it's you that screwed things up!? Changed my mind and it happens to be useful for negotiations on more expensive cars given certain timings.
Show nested quote +Now here we run into a problem - the S4 is in extremely limited supply, and the lease specials on it ran out back in September. After some negotiation, I was offered it at $904 per month Jesus you can rent a house for that much in some places :p You would barf at my 2 bedroom apartment's monthly rental price lol.
Show nested quote +for 36 months after tax with 0 down, just the first and last months upfront. Keep in mind dealerships have competition for you - there's other buyers. So we Who is 'we'? My roommate and I.
Show nested quote +introduced a bit of competitions among dealerships. The dealership we went to was not the one we bought the R8 at, so we go over to THAT dealership, and tell them to beat that offer and we'll walk in today. Of course we said the offer was $800/month instead of $904 Do you recommend lying about offers like this? The most ethical car buyers are the most screwed car buyers.
Show nested quote +We end up with $719/month for 36 months with 0 down, which is about an average deal but not bad given the credit history and how many cars are on the account.
So in short, don't jump on the first deal you get. Always walk out of the tank - let the waters swirl and let competing deals jump in. Give dealers an ultimatum - you've got an offer, and if they beat it you're going to go buy now, and if not, then you're taking your business elsewhere. They can tell when you're serious about buying. Don't feel bad about wasting a dealer's time, only to take the deal elsewhere. It's your money. Make them fight for it. Good advice. TY.
Show nested quote +P.S. Fuck the F-Type, the deal was so bad it's better for me to get rid of it now than to finish the lease. Oh, so you do still have it. Yea fml although I might relayrides farm that and make good money.
Edit - leasing is basically infinite buying since you can just trade the car in and upgrade. Depending on how long you intend to keep your car, leasing can be quite logical in certain areas.
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So in short, don't jump on the first deal you get. Always walk out of the tank - let the waters swirl and let competing deals jump in. Give dealers an ultimatum - you've got an offer, and if they beat it you're going to go buy now, and if not, then you're taking your business elsewhere. They can tell when you're serious about buying. Don't feel bad about wasting a dealer's time, only to take the deal elsewhere. It's your money. Make them fight for it.
Eloquently put.
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On January 12 2015 09:30 EtherealDeath wrote:Show nested quote +On January 12 2015 09:18 Kronen wrote: Not to rain on your parade too much here, but I was expecting some "buying" experience in this blog. Leasing a new car is completely different than the purchasing as the leasee is basically paying for the new-car smell every two years. If having that new car is important to you personally or professionally then it can be worth it, but your paying for the novelty. Also, lease rates are much more volatile and dependent on credit history when compared to auto loan rates. Being in the market for a new(er) car myself soon, I was hoping to hear some give-and-take experience. You can do the same for purchasing cars. Just make the dealerships compete and be extremely aggressive about it. They're going to shoot insulting offers at you until you make them bleed for it. Although granted if you're buying a car, first of all I would never buy a new car because that's just financially sily - if you want new just lease it, get a damn good rate and then buy it out later if you really want to, which you probably won't. Under the assumption that you're going for a 2-3 year old car (in order to avoid the really heavy depreciation without being too old), then it really depends on the exact car. You can check online for deals and such to get a better idea of the price. As for how to get the most competition between dealerships, again this depends on the car. There tends to be much more competitions intra-brand than inter-brand for dealerships, so for example if I show an Audi dealer a deal on an E350, he won't be as much moved on an A6 as if I came to him with a deal from another Audi dealer on the same type of A6. The thing that dealers will always want to do is to get you to sign and drive off with the car, because once you do that you have no recourse. There's another little trick you can do to make sure they give you the best damn deal possible. Dealerships tend to be open after banks close. Go there before the banks close, get approved on a car that is 10k+ below the price of the car you want, and then after banks are closed, change the car you want. Tell them you want to walk out with it today, that they HAVE to get you the deal because you want it now - not tomorrow, NOW, and that you are ready to pay - but only if they hit certain price targets. Again, do your research on what that price target probably should be, although they'll probably give you 150% to 200% of the real rate to begin with. Thing is, after you've made them bleed to the max and give you a "crazy" deal, you're not done. Oh no the banks are now closed and they can't approve your new deal, because your price is now outside of the price range they approved. So the dealership will have to call you in the morning to try to clear it. Now that you've got a "crazy" deal, go to another dealer first thing in the morning and bring them that offer. Do your research overnight to find a dealer who is likely to beat the deal. Then, once you're there, chances are they will beat that offer because the "crazy" deal you think you got last night is not actually a crazy deal. Then you can tell the original dealership that unfortunately you chose to buy another car once they call .
Hey man, I sell cars for a living. I just want to say you are most definitely not making the dealer 'bleed'. They are making money on your deal front and back. They are a business and are there to make money, simple. There is nothing wrong with negotiating a price with them but dont think you brought them to their knees.
Also, I dont believe your 'trick' really saved you that much money. How much is your time worth? Was it worth spending the better part of a week to save a few hundred maybe a thousand bucks? Sounds like stepping over dollars to pick up dimes. There really isnt as much of a mark up on dealer cars as you may think there is. And besides you are buying/leasing a new vehicle, it is going to be a loss for you no matter what way you look at it. Not to mention the shot gun to your credit. You want to know what is financially silly? Paying money to spend money you dont have.
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On January 12 2015 16:12 omisa wrote:Show nested quote +On January 12 2015 09:30 EtherealDeath wrote:On January 12 2015 09:18 Kronen wrote: Not to rain on your parade too much here, but I was expecting some "buying" experience in this blog. Leasing a new car is completely different than the purchasing as the leasee is basically paying for the new-car smell every two years. If having that new car is important to you personally or professionally then it can be worth it, but your paying for the novelty. Also, lease rates are much more volatile and dependent on credit history when compared to auto loan rates. Being in the market for a new(er) car myself soon, I was hoping to hear some give-and-take experience. You can do the same for purchasing cars. Just make the dealerships compete and be extremely aggressive about it. They're going to shoot insulting offers at you until you make them bleed for it. Although granted if you're buying a car, first of all I would never buy a new car because that's just financially sily - if you want new just lease it, get a damn good rate and then buy it out later if you really want to, which you probably won't. Under the assumption that you're going for a 2-3 year old car (in order to avoid the really heavy depreciation without being too old), then it really depends on the exact car. You can check online for deals and such to get a better idea of the price. As for how to get the most competition between dealerships, again this depends on the car. There tends to be much more competitions intra-brand than inter-brand for dealerships, so for example if I show an Audi dealer a deal on an E350, he won't be as much moved on an A6 as if I came to him with a deal from another Audi dealer on the same type of A6. The thing that dealers will always want to do is to get you to sign and drive off with the car, because once you do that you have no recourse. There's another little trick you can do to make sure they give you the best damn deal possible. Dealerships tend to be open after banks close. Go there before the banks close, get approved on a car that is 10k+ below the price of the car you want, and then after banks are closed, change the car you want. Tell them you want to walk out with it today, that they HAVE to get you the deal because you want it now - not tomorrow, NOW, and that you are ready to pay - but only if they hit certain price targets. Again, do your research on what that price target probably should be, although they'll probably give you 150% to 200% of the real rate to begin with. Thing is, after you've made them bleed to the max and give you a "crazy" deal, you're not done. Oh no the banks are now closed and they can't approve your new deal, because your price is now outside of the price range they approved. So the dealership will have to call you in the morning to try to clear it. Now that you've got a "crazy" deal, go to another dealer first thing in the morning and bring them that offer. Do your research overnight to find a dealer who is likely to beat the deal. Then, once you're there, chances are they will beat that offer because the "crazy" deal you think you got last night is not actually a crazy deal. Then you can tell the original dealership that unfortunately you chose to buy another car once they call . Hey man, I sell cars for a living. I just want to say you are most definitely not making the dealer 'bleed'. They are making money on your deal front and back. They are a business and are there to make money, simple. There is nothing wrong with negotiating a price with them but dont think you brought them to their knees. Also, I dont believe your 'trick' really saved you that much money. How much is your time worth? Was it worth spending the better part of a week to save a few hundred maybe a thousand bucks? Sounds like stepping over dollars to pick up dimes. There really isnt as much of a mark up on dealer cars as you may think there is. And besides you are buying/leasing a new vehicle, it is going to be a loss for you no matter what way you look at it. Not to mention the shot gun to your credit. You want to know what is financially silly? Paying money to spend money you dont have. Of course the dealer will be making a nice profit, I'm quite aware of that - I ended up getting an average deal, although given the circumstances it was probably as good as I could get. But the point of the statement is that you don't get nearly as ripped off as you would be otherwise. And it's not really a shotgun to my credit. My roommate's gone through 7 cars this year and god knows how many inquiries and his credit is going up quite nicely. Seeing as how I don't use credit for anything else other than paying all credit card bills 100% immediately, it's more fun than anything for me.
As I spent a total of 4 hours at the dealerships so it wasn't really much of a time investment for me. I just hate the idea of getting a ridiculously dumb deal, although admittedly the "trick" probably has no better results than good negotiating to begin with.
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On January 12 2015 12:29 EtherealDeath wrote: Edit - leasing is basically infinite buying since you can just trade the car in and upgrade. Depending on how long you intend to keep your car, leasing can be quite logical in certain areas.
Its not infinite buying. At no point do you gain equity in the car unless you are leasing something and paying for more miles than you are using. Its infinitely renting. You are retarded. Why would you blog this? No one irl wants to hear about your stupid over obsession with getting a few hundred bucks off a new luxury car. lmfao
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On January 12 2015 18:03 red.venom wrote:Show nested quote +On January 12 2015 12:29 EtherealDeath wrote: Edit - leasing is basically infinite buying since you can just trade the car in and upgrade. Depending on how long you intend to keep your car, leasing can be quite logical in certain areas.
Its not infinite buying. At no point do you gain equity in the car unless you are leasing something and paying for more miles than you are using. Its infinitely renting. You are retarded. Why would you blog this? No one irl wants to hear about your stupid over obsession with getting a few hundred bucks off a new luxury car. lmfao What I meant is that it's basically buying a new car every 2 years but with less worries. Also the savings for my specific car was about 5k beyond the first dealer's final offer so it's not exactly a few hundred.
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What I was always curious about is why do people who claim they think about 'saving' money or 'getting a deal' actually buy new cars in the first place. Why didn't you just buy a 2-3 year old car instead?
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The fact that people who are intelligent enough to be able to make that kind of money feel the urge to throw it away for an expensive new car is one of the biggest mysteries of the Universe. These "luxury cars" are possibly the worst bang for a buck you can ever find (second only to "luxury housing"), yet like half the people who make that money feel an unstoppable urge to get one, I really don't get it - there are so many more fun things you can get, or if you really don't know what to do with the money, you can just donate it somewhere and feel good about yourself ...
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On January 12 2015 21:41 Salazarz wrote: What I was always curious about is why do people who claim they think about 'saving' money or 'getting a deal' actually buy new cars in the first place. Why didn't you just buy a 2-3 year old car instead? Or older. I saved £22,000 by buying a used car instead of a new car! Rather than £25k for a new car I paid only £3k for a used one. I have great negotiating skills.
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On January 12 2015 22:16 Lonyo wrote:Show nested quote +On January 12 2015 21:41 Salazarz wrote: What I was always curious about is why do people who claim they think about 'saving' money or 'getting a deal' actually buy new cars in the first place. Why didn't you just buy a 2-3 year old car instead? Or older. I saved £22,000 by buying a used car instead of a new car! Rather than £25k for a new car I paid only £3k for a used one. I have great negotiating skills.
Well I mean once you go past ~5 year mark or so (depending on a lot of things of course, the car model, where you live, how much you drive, how lucky you are), you could possibly start running into random annoying issues so I can understand people who don't want to buy like 10 year old cars or whatever; plus some of the newer models have pretty cool features, like parking assist is awesome etc... but there is pretty much no difference between a brand new car and a car that's 2-3 years old aside from the price tag. Makes even less sense to buy a new car if you plan on changing it every couple years since it's during the first 2 years that a car devalues the most, too.
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On January 12 2015 23:53 Pandemona wrote:push into the italian market with a Masareti or Porsche
:l
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1001 YEARS KESPAJAIL22272 Posts
On January 13 2015 01:14 Pandemona wrote:Sorry Porsche just a miss typing
A LIKELY STORY
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