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konadora
Singapore66131 Posts
I've finally gotten my hands on a camera, a second-hand Canon 400D with the standard 50mm f/1.8 lens, plus a few other accessories (additional batteries, remote, vertical grip, etc) at around 500USD. Buying it from my friend from school so I can slowly pay in installments XD
This is my first time actually attempting to take good photos and also my first time using a DSLR hehe. Slowly picking up on the basics of photography and stuff, though I have go to through some sort of audition this Friday (photo shoot of a Rugby event, oh god) so that I can join my school's photography club 
I've got to play around with it today as I visited my secondary school and my Scouts juniors. Some of them didn't really turn out the way I wanted though >_<
Hoping for some tips for a beginner photographer here! :D (P.S: Try to comment on the photo itself, not the people in it lol)
EDIT: I used a 17-40mm f/4 to take these photos.
+ Show Spoiler +Moving object, too blurred  . What settings should I be on in this kind of situation? Was on Av mode. I wanted to place a bit more emphasis on the guy on the left, but I think the light from the left (it was on an open area with the edge just behind the guy, and it was an extremely sunny day) kind of ruined it. Lower ISO? I think this one was pretty okay. A LOT of noise in here.  One problem I seemed to face often is that I can't get good pictures of clouds and the sky... they always appear as a white piece of foggy mist  One example: My shoe, very random.
Also, some random blurb about today. I finally decided to start exercising once again. The last time I had some real exercise was waaaaaaay back in July, so yeah I've gained some weight as of late 
After watching the Will Smith video, I was really motivated to stick to a decision I made. I would always just procrastinate and tell myself, "Oh, I'll just exercise tomorrow."
But today, I told myself this can't continue and that I have to start taking charge of my life once again.
So I went out, ran and did some workout for like an hour.
I felt so tired and out of breath, but oh boy, I have never felt this happy about myself in the past few months.
Now I intend to do this every day ^__^;; Hope everyone here finds some motivation to do something good about your life (no matter how insignificant it may be) slowly but with determination and decisiveness.
   
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I liked the photos. I'm interested in the solutions to your problems since I dig the whole design, photo stuffs as well.
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Yay a long post from kona! Christmas comes early in tl 
the photos look rather fine, though from my untrained eye all that I can say is that you need to work on perspective and composition more
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Well I'm just gonna dump some stuff I know here lol. Practice using manual settings. Learn about apertures and shutter speeds. Learn rules of photo composition. wider lens(zoomed out) = more dramatic images narrower lens(zoomed in) = more flat images Lower ISO = higher quality pictures,bigger file size, less noise, requires more light Higher ISO = lower quality pictures,smaller file size, more noise, requires less light
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kona if you want to get into skateboarding as a sport i can help you get started, i operate a skatepark/skateshop in central singapore. i also know a thing or 2 about photography/videography. also skateboard photography is something you might be interested in. why run when you can skate amirite.
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the problem with av and the xti is you don't have spot metering, and the first image, the camera is prolly in a evaluative meter and is taking the whole scene into consideration.
i would say keep your iso at one place the whole day, learn to shoot changing the aperture and shutter speed. iso changing is a drug youll always want more and cleaner.
also shoot closer, you can never be too close, the 50mm will help you out a lot with framing and composition and it forces you to move as well.
2nd shot, more emphasis on guy on left, get closer be like nevergg on progamers, you want to isolate the person, the other stuff is just fluff and distracting, its something youll learn to develop. for now as a beginner just learn to capture one thing at a time, make each shot count
3rd shot is pretty good, imo maybe a little more on the head and ear
4th get maybe get slower, and you can get a dept of field shot of all the shoes in line
just keep shooting, its lots of fun, youll be wanting new bodies, new lenses and all that jazz soon enough, just don't get into lighting and off camera strobes that a whole other can of worms
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i almost always shoot with either shutter or apeture priority or full manual.
1st pic: if you wanna freeze motion u need high shutter speed, like that guy moving, probably at least 1/250.. 1/500 or 1/1000 would be best, but its probably too dark in that classroom to shoot so high.
taking the dark classroom into consideration, what you would do is this, 1) up your iso to something that is sensitive enough yet not too noisy.. maybe 800.. 2) set to shutter priority and set your desired shutter speed, maybe 1/250 3) take a few pics to adjust for the right exposure. use exposure compensation. if you are metering the whole scene, it will probably underexpose your subject cos the background is full of bright windows so be sure to overexpose, or use spot metering on your subject. 4) that is a hard pic to do cos it is backlit, to properly expose your subject without washing out the windows you will need to fill flash. its much better to have your back to the windows and shoot into the room.
2nd pic: like you said you had too strong a light source from the left, i think its fine to be side lit but if you wanted stuff to look more evenly lit, you will need a reflector or use an external flash to fill from the right.
if you lower the ISO you are just lowering the sensitivity and everything will just look darker. you should always use as low an ISO as possible to ensure the best pics. higher iso = more noise & less dynamic range.
when shooting indoors or at high shutter speeds you will always be limited by light, you can either get a camera that performs well at high ISO or get expensive lenses with big apertures.
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Looks pretty awesome for a first try, not that I will pretend to know anything about photography, but they look nice.
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Very nice start Kona and a good decision to work out and do different things to enjoy life. I truly hope your new hobby will make you relaxed enough to do also well in school :D
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+ Show Spoiler +In low light like that you're going to have to open up the aperture as much as possible, which won't get you far with an f/4 lens. Don't worry about it, it was just a crappy situation to take a photo in. Indoors during the day is never fun. It'll be easier with your 50mm f/1.8. Always try to have the lowest ISO possible. Do everything in your power to use the lowest ISO possible. The tradeoff in color and noise is never worth it unless you absolutely need it, or are going for some specific effect. Keep it at 100 at all times. Most of your photos seem blown out, and having a lower ISO could definitely have helped. For this photo, the composition is off to begin with. It can be seen you wanted the guy on the left to be the subject...the problem is that the angle you took it from doesnt show his face. He draws the eye, but you can't really see/identify with him, making it awkward. Try for different angles in similar situations, like maybe from the side of the people lined up. Not bad, however, the depth of field is too much in this one. The composition is good, too. What was your ISO setting, btw? This one still looks a bit blown out, but that could just be because you haven't processed it through photoshop or something similar yet. Definitely too much, and the photo is overall a bit dark. Not bad, but there's a lot of negative space. In addition, I would try bringing out the colors a bit more. It seems a bit blown out, which can also give photos a slight burnt feeling in terms of colors (it can also make photos seem very cold, however). This is my favorite one from the set so far. Good composition and I like the tilted angle you shot it from. It gives the feeling of excitement and movement. The colors also somehow came out better in this one than most of your previous ones. This one suffers from a lack of DoF. The photo looks somewhat flat because of how clearly the building behind the subject came out, so he lacks emphasis. In addition, the blaring light kind of muted the colors again. Again, this is something you can band-aid in photoshop. This would have been a great photo, but it suffers the same problems as the one before last...the lack of depth in the photo...:\ Neither of the people are in focus, and the eye gets drawn to both. That's kind of disorienting for a viewer. Clouds are harder than you can imagine to take photos of. They always turn out boring, or lack contrast. Mess with the curves and levels of this one and you may be able to bring out the gradations and shapes a bit more. I've given up taking pictures of clouds, but there are a lot of great ones out there. One example: This is the best photo here. This is the one your school would use on the front cover. Actually, it'll probably use the other more action-oriented shot further up I commented on, but this one is great in its own way. The composition in this one just works out really great. The colors just need to be touched up. Another good shot. The colors are muted, however...very cold looking. Not a bad shot. (: It's pleasing to the eye. Another good one...these last set are definitely the best ones in the whole set. What happened? lol. The building is blurred out, making the photo less flat. The subject really looks like he's popping out of the background. The only thing I can complain about is the color, which is also very blue and cool.
Good start. I wrote all of my criticisms constructively, so I hope you don't take them personally.
Good luck!
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My advice is to take hundreds of photos to start. It'll help you learn what settings and range you should use when in a particular setting. Always shoot in .raw format and using programs like Adobe Lightroom and Microsoft Expression Media helps handling (organizing) your photos and quickly adjusting them much easier.
Good luck with your excercise though, it's one of those things that are really hard to stick to developing as a habit. School, work and other things just make you feel like, 'ugh i'm gonna nap.' instead of working out.
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Welcome to the canon club =)
PH already gave a lot of good advice. Although I disagree with him about the "keep ISO100 at all times" part, of course it's optimal to have it at 100 but in my experience that's just not gonna happen, at least indoors and I'd rather have some noise than a blurred picture. But still try to never ever have a higher ISO than needed.
Oh btw, I think PH you made a little mistake, when you say "This one suffers from a lack of DoF" I think you meant to say the opposite, that it has too much depth of field and that it would look better if the building in the bg was less sharp.
Just in case youre not clear about this, kona: small F-value -> small DOF, only your object will be sharp high F-value (=small aperture) -> large DOF, entire pic will be sharp
So if you wanna change that and let the shutter speed be changed by the camera automatically go to av-mode. in pic #1 you should have set it to tv-mode so you could have set your desired shutter speed.
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Wow are those the epic friends of the epic Konadora?
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On January 20 2010 04:52 7mk wrote: Welcome to the canon club =)
PH already gave a lot of good advice. Although I disagree with him about the "keep ISO100 at all times" part, of course it's optimal to have it at 100 but in my experience that's just not gonna happen, at least indoors and I'd rather have some noise than a blurred picture. But still try to never ever have a higher ISO than needed.
Oh btw, I think PH you made a little mistake, when you say "This one suffers from a lack of DoF" I think you meant to say the opposite, that it has too much depth of field and that it would look better if the building in the bg was less sharp.
Just in case youre not clear about this, kona: small F-value -> small DOF, only your object will be sharp high F-value (=small aperture) -> large DOF, entire pic will be sharp
So if you wanna change that and let the shutter speed be changed by the camera automatically go to av-mode. in pic #1 you should have set it to tv-mode so you could have set your desired shutter speed. Yeah, unfortunately, ISO100 isn't always going to happen. I was more trying to get him into the mindset of keeping it as low as possible. Personally, I always at least try at 100, then bump it up only as need be. For most nighttime indoors situations, I can generally pull it off at 1/50 or 1/60 depending on how my hands are that night at f/1.2 on my 50mm lens. Or if I'm using an f/2.8, I may just sacrifice brightness in the capture and try to compensate for it in post processing. That's a bit self-defeating, though, since I end up losing a lot of detail -_-
In any case, I very rarely go above 200. If it's too dark to shoot below 400, I just don't shoot. It's not worth it at that point, with how garbage the photo is guaranteed to turn out (unless, of course, I'm being paid or am volunteering at an event or something lol).
And yeah, I never really caught onto which way means what in terms of DoF. I hope my meaning was at least clear, even if I switched the terms up. I meant to say the image is too flat, and could use more depth. I'm completely self taught as far as photography goes...I never learned anything formally, and was just helped out by old coworkers and whatnot. :X
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On January 20 2010 04:18 Amarxist wrote: My advice is to take hundreds of photos to start. It'll help you learn what settings and range you should use when in a particular setting. Always shoot in .raw format and using programs like Adobe Lightroom and Microsoft Expression Media helps handling (organizing) your photos and quickly adjusting them much easier.
Good luck with your excercise though, it's one of those things that are really hard to stick to developing as a habit. School, work and other things just make you feel like, 'ugh i'm gonna nap.' instead of working out.
I'm going to disagree with you very strongly about raw.
I don't recommend raw. Raw is great, and allows for a lot of control at the start, but it's way too much for someone just starting out. I'm a huge tech dork and even I don't bother with raw anymore.
I'm generally making gargantuan prints where every bit of detail counts, and if you're only posting to the internet, or god forbid, printing to a newspaper, those minute details won't matter to anyone but you. Peoples' monitor settings are too varied and too inconsistent for colors to really matter, and no one compute from a 60" HDTV. Newspapers print like absolute garbage, and 70% of your detail and color integrity is lost and out of your control anyway.
Even despite all that, though, I would still use raw were it not for one...just ONE thing...its ridiculous, overbloated, and just plain stupid file size. They're on average what...like six times larger than a L fine JPEG? My computer's photo folder is large enough as it is with just JPEGs and a few raws, lol.
Sorry...that came off as an angry rant more than anything else, but I hate raw now -_-. I'll shoot with it again when I'm messing around with single capture HDR or something, but short of that, L fine JPEG is just fine, imo.
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konadora
Singapore66131 Posts
@Amarxist: lol I don't have Lightroom so I took all these in JPG format They are all unedited too haha.
@all: I didn't realise this until a bit later on, but I was on a rather high ISO (800 or 1600 most of the time, with some 400s) which I guess is the reason why some of them came out rather badly.
@iceburn: Spot metering?? What's that??
+ Show Spoiler + For a shot like this, how can I make it have more DoF (in this case, the guy?)
Well thanks for the advice (especially PH :D), will keep on trying and take better shots ^__^;;
Currently just experimenting around and learning to get used to my camera before Friday T__T
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To get less DoF (as 7mk would correct ), you would extend your lens to its longest focal length (you said you were using a 17-40mm, so you'd lengthen it to 40mm), and widen your aperture as much as possible, so at f/4.
Depth of Field basically refers to the entire area of the composition that will be in focus. The more "depth" you have in the image, the more of it that will be in focus. The less DoF you have, the less that will be in focus. If you play around with this, you'll see that it shows up as a sort of strip of focus. Try taking photos of objects on a table with as much DoF as you can muster. You'll see the foreground and background blurred and a little zone of focus where you were focused on.
Your shot of your shoe has very little DoF, and you can see why that is often advantageous. Your shoe sort of "pops out" of the image. The background is blurry, drawing the eye more strongly to the shoe, and gives the image an overall sense of depth to it (using depth here in an unrelated and nontechnical way).
In the photo you just asked about, the image lacks depth. There's no real sense of distance beyond what one would apply by common sense in the image. Relatively speaking, everything is in focus all at once, and so you have no real subject, as the photo as a whole draws the eye.
The 50mm lens is actually an 80mm lens on your camera (and actually on most DSLRs), but is still a great focal length for general picture taking. You won't be able to take anything even remotely wide angle (like landscapes or sky shots or anything like that), but it's very good for journalism and head/upper body portraiture. As it's a prime lens, you won't be able to play with DoF with focal lengths, but only with the aperture. This can be frustrating, especially when figuring out lighting and all that, but...we cant really do anything about it :\
And...time for class.
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Holy fuck lol
I read the thread title as "Getting into pornography + some random blurb"
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NeverGG
United Kingdom5399 Posts
'2nd shot, more emphasis on guy on left, get closer be like nevergg on progamers'
Makes me sound like I'm sitting on their laps or something XD Sorry for the quickie. I'm at work.
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Who did you borrow the 17-40 f4L from? That's a really expensive lens.
NeverGG you're always welcome to a quickie.
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technicalities are only means to an end also digital post-processing cannot really be overlooked in the digital age lightroom is much easier to deal with than photoshop -- although photoshop gives you finer control
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Don't be afraid of raising iso. A lot of times you need it to get enough speed to freeze motion, or enough depth of focus to get your composition to work. I don't know how good the 400D is at high iso performance but digital is generally much better than film.
Some things you might consider investing in - a circular polarizing filter, and an ND filter for using when it's really bright and you still want access to higher apertures. Get these on ebay, they're cheap and unless you're comparing to high-end $80 multicoated filters, they're the same as anything in a camera shop. That's about all you need for shooting digital since color filters can be simulated in photoshop for both color and black and white final outputs.
Figure out when and why to use exposure and white balance compensation. Your exposures on most of these shots is pretty good though, despite what a lot of people have to say.
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metering is something that tells you how underexposed or how overexposed your photo is going to come out with your current settings.
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<3 scss
also, don't exercise everyday, muscles need rest after a workout for your whole exercise routine to be effective. change up your routine constantly also. for example go jogging on 1 day and do weight exercises on another. warmups are also very important
i know about muscles. i study them.
and what the fuck were u doing at 11pm when u have to get up at like, what? 6?
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The 2 most important things I've learned from my photography class and experience:
1.Never use flash (not the progamer).
2.Try not to use ISO over 400
Otherwise it looks like you're off to a good start. Someone more experienced like NeverGG will probably be a lot more help if she finds free time for you :p
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konadora
Singapore66131 Posts
Haven't uploaded a photo for example yet, but I've been playing around with my camera in my lit room. Room isn't that bright, and room is small.
I've been trying to take shots from below my desk to my monitor, setting is at 400 ISO, f5 ~ 10 (varied range, been playing around) and I see that my monitor is bright while everything else is very dark. How do I solve this? (Once again, on Av mode with my 17-40mm lens)
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On January 20 2010 14:38 TimmyMac wrote: Don't be afraid of raising iso. A lot of times you need it to get enough speed to freeze motion, or enough depth of focus to get your composition to work. I don't know how good the 400D is at high iso performance but digital is generally much better than film.
Digital may be able to control noise better than film, but film noise doesn't look as bad as digital noise does, lol.
On January 20 2010 15:34 Sadistx wrote: The 2 most important things I've learned from my photography class and experience:
1.Never use flash (not the progamer).
2.Try not to use ISO over 400
Otherwise it looks like you're off to a good start. Someone more experienced like NeverGG will probably be a lot more help if she finds free time for you :p 1. I assume you're talking about the onboard flash. Fill flashes are very useful during the day, and even the onboard flash can help with that. In addition, there are some cases where you can get by with the onboard one.
2. Agreed.
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konadora
Singapore66131 Posts
Still hoping that Negg might post some tips XD
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On January 20 2010 15:34 Sadistx wrote: 1.Never use flash (not the progamer).
2.Try not to use ISO over 400
Never using flash is plain wrong, and some of the outdoor pics in this set could have used a little flash to illuminate the subject better and control the highlights in the background.
As far as ISO settings, that depends entirely on how fast you need your shutter to be and what body you're using. I'd have no problem using a D700 at 800 or 1600 if necessary.
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On January 21 2010 01:37 TimmyMac wrote:Show nested quote +On January 20 2010 15:34 Sadistx wrote: 1.Never use flash (not the progamer).
2.Try not to use ISO over 400
Never using flash is plain wrong, and some of the outdoor pics in this set could have used a little flash to illuminate the subject better and control the highlights in the background. Ever been in a studio? Flashes everywhere. Ever seen a pro wedding photographer? Flash on most shots. As far as ISO settings, that depends entirely on how fast you need your shutter to be and what body you're using. I'd have no problem using a D700 at 800 or 1600 if necessary.
EDIT: HOLY HELL QUOTED MYSELF TRYING TO EDIT WTF
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Hong Kong20321 Posts
what d ou look like kona o O_
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Protip: Take a picture of Mizuki Nana and your photography level increases by over 9000.
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NeverGG
United Kingdom5399 Posts
On January 20 2010 23:07 konadora wrote: Still hoping that Negg might post some tips XD
I am so happy over all the votes of confidence, but I think people have some misconceptions about how technical I get with my cameras. I don't really pay that much attention to settings because I focus far more upon angles, bokeh and generally capturing emotion/that special moment.
I usually have everything set to ISO 800, auto mode when using the Canon inside. I'd use manual, but eSports photography often requires you to be running around quickly capturing images and staying out of the line of cameras/other crew etc. I'm still learning how to use the Canon so I can probably give more techy stuff once I have figured out the best manner in which to employ my external flash etc.
My advice is always going to be less on the technical side and more on the emotive/girly side. I don't know whether that kind of thing would be useful to you, or not.
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konadora
Singapore66131 Posts
Oooh haha, I mean not about the camera technical settings, but more about some tips about how to take better shots (and if you can, criticise on my photos in the OP and tell me how I can improve on them, unless PH already mentioned them or something).
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On January 20 2010 08:32 Foucault wrote: Holy fuck lol
I read the thread title as "Getting into pornography + some random blurb"
lol me too, and then I was wondering what the hell would be in a spoilered picture....
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NeverGG
United Kingdom5399 Posts
On January 21 2010 13:41 konadora wrote: Oooh haha, I mean not about the camera technical settings, but more about some tips about how to take better shots (and if you can, criticise on my photos in the OP and tell me how I can improve on them, unless PH already mentioned them or something).
I think PH has the op shots covered - he's better at this than I am. In terms of personal advice about how take shots it is entirely dependant upon the context within which you're photographing. I'll try and be as detailed as possible and hopefully this will give you some starting points.
I'm not qualified to talk about landscape photography yet so I'll focus on my three regular types of photography;
+ Portraits with a model. + Inanimate objects. + Event photography where you're dealing with candid subjects plus inanimate objects.
Portraits with a model:
+ Show Spoiler ++ Talk to the subject before hand. Get them to relax as much as possible and try and make them laugh even if it means acting like an idiot. (I have done this with too many of the gamers to count and it makes a distinct difference in the photos.) It helps to throw subjects off balance at times by doing something really weird (for example the shoulder cat shoots or hugging Effort.) because then even if it's not positive you'll capture some real emotion. I often talk to my models when shooting them to provoke smiles, laughter or even confusion. That honest emotion can make a world of difference to a posed photo. For example - we were both laughing like twats when this was taken; + Do not allow outside interference with the shoot. If someone attempts to interrupt your work promptly tell them to go away (politely if you can.) + Location is key for these kinds of shoots. Try to choose somewhere as versatile as possible. With a good source of natural light or some form of interesting artificial light to play off of if you're working in low light conditions; For Example: I used a light on the outside of the OGN building to provide contrast (and an actual light source so no flash was used.) here; This is a useful technique for people with strong profiles and facial features because you can use photoshop to highlight the interesting points upon their face in post-production. Also consider the bokeh you will be creating with different backgrounds. Even if an element of the photo is not in focus it can contribute to the over all contrast or warmth/coldness of a photo; For Example: I specifically selected this location for the contrast of greens/pinks in the background to highlight the concept of 'flower boys' and bring out a softer side to a player who has been seen as serious and robotic at times; Same here with this shot of Hwasin - using the lines of the wall to draw focus; I'm not really a composition junkie, but it is something you need to consider when taking portraits. + When using props keep it simple and try to tie in the color/idea of the prop to the concept of your shoot;For Example: The concept for this shoot was both to tie in the red of the CJ Entus uniform highlights and also reflect the song/weather; http://www.teamliquid.net/forum/viewmessage.php?topic_id=94927I've also used props that tie in with other elements such as a gamer's personality, nicknames or uniforms in the past. If you want to use a prop then give it a meaning or purpose so it doesn't seem as if it's been tacked on impulsively (and you can defend it's use if called for.)
Inanimate objects.
+ Show Spoiler ++ Never be satisfied with one angle. Experiment with different arrangements if your object is movable. I've found that creating textures upon which you can focus and reducing most of the rest of the photo to bokeh provides some interesting images. If the object is not movable then change your position as much as possible. Seek out different light sources and if possible get yourself to different heights for a new perspective. I've even done this during portraits using a chair or climbing a ladder to provide a fresh angle. If the object is reflective (mirrors/metal.) then use different items and even yourself to create a smear of colors or a separate image within the photo itself. + Colors and textures are your friend. + Try different artificial lighting sources. I'm yet to experiment with this, but if you're working with a small object such as food or anything else that fits on a table then you can use a standing lamp or even create a simple light tent using white paper, foils and a lamp to make the image more vivid or highlight certain element (playing with light and shadow can dramatically change the mood of a photo.) I've also been wanting to experiment with fluid and possibly flecking or dunking items in water/paint to see how this affects the image and it's mood. However, that's a challenge for another time. + If you want to get super close ups then you'll be needing a macro lens. I don't have one, but I find my little lens (I'll check on the specs for you when I get home.) is perfectly sufficient for shots like this; See what I mean about textures and colors? This is a really busy photo, but I wanted to reflect the candy colored excesses of Japanese style 'cuteness.'
Event Photos:
+ Show Spoiler ++ Be aware of your surroundings at all times. It is easy to get lost or distracted by both the camera itself and events outside of it. If you're photographing an event then commit to it entirely. My basic rules for an event are; ~ No friends. They might distract you by wanting to go for food/somewhere else etc etc. ~ No phone. Calls and texts can ruin your rhythm. ~ No lunch breaks. Food can make you sluggish and unmotivated. Eating before and after is fine though. ~ Don't stop until you're satisfied. (Which I never am.) This might sound crazy, but it's only by leaving all distractions at the door that I'm able to focus on the event and bringing the best photos possible to other people. What you need to do is figure out your own pace for shooting and what works for you. I am very particular about everything during events and pressure myself so hard I've been known to get sick for several days after something very important. However, a more relaxed approach might be your style. So practice, practice, practice and put yourself into as many different situations as possible before finding your own rhythm and how you choose to approach photography in a more candid capacity. + Keep it on the down low - when shooting I've found that the best approach to getting candid shots is to take yourself out of the equation. Hang back, stay quiet and wait whilst being observant for people to be off guard. The best photos of a person can be when they're not posing so don't grab people for photos - let their expressions and emotions do the work for you. For example; Raw emotion like this can't be replicated. + Don't worry if it's a bit blurry. With things like sporting events and gatherings being clinical or producing photos that can be turned into graphics (like most of my photo shoots can be.) shouldn't matter. You are there to capture a moment and preserve it, to celebrate emotion and honesty. (Or at least this is my slightly romantic view of event photography.) Color, texture and feeling are all key components in event photography and you can get away with a larger degree of blurriness or lack of composition because you don't have the added luxury of going back and checking/repeating a pose or moment. If you check Fomos even my mentor Mr.Kang posts blurred photos when they are of especially significant moments.
General Advice:
+ Don't be afraid to go where other people don't dare. I've gotten a lot of my shots through hiding behind speakers, ducking under barriers and generally looking for the angles the other photographers aren't taking. Don't be too afraid to take risks and to put yourself in a little bit of danger as long as it's not going to end in a broken camera or a broken self.
Reckless? Yes. Effective? Often, yes too.
+ Also make sure your equipment is always charged and ready to go. Keep all your supplies together in one drawer or camera bag. Clean them even when not in use upon a regular basis. Do not let other people borrow or handle your camera/supplies even if you trust them. Fellow photographers are alright and people you *really* trust. However, don't take that risk if you can help it.
Always back up important photos and clear out your memory card after each use. Double and triple check all equipment before any important events or holidays etc. I triple check even before Proleague.
+ Make sure you have effective photo imaging tools on your computer for post-processing. Anyone who tells you they haven't edited a professional/semi-pro grade looking photo is lying their ass off. Except under certain rare circumstances where a photo turns out perfectly first time. You will always at least need to resize it.
I use a combination of Ifranview for resizing and batch conversions and PS7 for color/contrast/brightness and other more advanced editing issues.
Having your own water mark is both a good way to protect your photos from being used by someone else and mark them as a part of your body of work.
+ Remember that in this hobby 90% of the time you get what you pay for. Research what you're actually going to spend the majority of your time photographing and the conditions under which you will be working. My own kit all has a specific function;
Nikon D40X - Back up camera. Used for music events and some personal photography when the location/circumstances might be riskier.
Sigma EX 70-200mm lens - Originally bought for zoom capabilities which allow shots of gamers/booths from a distance.
Canon EOS5D - Bought specifically because it is the body of Mr.Kang so I knew it would work in my chosen locations. There was no financial reason to go higher than this model because it's dependability had been proven.
Canon L-class 70-200mm IS USM f/2.8 lens - Again part of Mr.Kang's kit. It is the standard choice for many professional journalists.
My other lens I've forgotten the specs for - Bought for close up/portrait work and also close up inanimate work. Much smaller, lighter and more compact than the 70-200mm it's a good daily use lens.
Privi polaroid from DSLR mini printer - the best other item I own. This mini printer is the size of video tape and prints polaroids directly from my DSLR via a single cable. It was cheap and provides a tangible means of sharing my work with potential 'clients' and also the models. I've used it to distribute photos to many of the gamers and also friends. (Susie got Boxer photos last Xmas ^_~ )
I hope this helps and if I think of anything else I'll edit it in later on. If you've got any other questions please hit me up - via MSN is probably the best option or in here.
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I'm curious - why a different brand of backup body? And why the same focal length on your backup?
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NeverGG
United Kingdom5399 Posts
On January 21 2010 15:25 TimmyMac wrote: I'm curious - why a different brand of backup body? And why the same focal length on your backup?
Because the back up was bought one year before the Canon back when I wasn't doing this work properly and lacked the experience I do now. Obviously I couldn't transfer the Sigma to the Canon because it's a Nikon mount. I also wanted to specifically replicate Mr. Kang's kit because I knew it could produce the kinds of photos I wanted to be taking.
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if you cannot afford so much money on lenses (and the prices are really ridiculous, like 1000 dollars for a decent zoom?), I highly recommend you buy a M42 adaptor (only around 10 dolalrs on ebay) and buy M42 lenses from the 60s and the 70s. The only downside is the lack of autofocus, but manual focus suits me just fine for most things I shoot (action shots are difficult). The optics often match L glass on Canon (which go for typically thousands) because lens technolgoy hasnt advanced very much. You can get a decent telephoto prime (200mm) for like 30 dollars; similar optics in modern technology would cost you literally 35 times that.
fyi i have built a rather capable set for less than 350 dollars 290 dollars (used xti with kit lens and batteries) 13 dollars (m42 adaptor with autofocus confirm) 25 dollars (helios 44m-6 - very very good russian lens, insane portrait and macro lens - focal length 58mm f2) 30 dollars (super takumar 135mm f3.5 - good telephoto lens with good bokeh) hoping to add more
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konadora
Singapore66131 Posts
Whoa, thanks for the HUUUUGE lengthy post, took some time to read them haha.
I'm going for a sports event shoot tomorrow (Rugby, just 5 days in... man) so those tips are really gonna help me out a lot. I'll post some tomorrow :D
@phosphorylation: I don't have that much money T___T I have trouble buying lenses that are like 200USD. (Mainly because I don't have a job, and being a student, I go out a lot )
Still, your set sounds very interesting, I'll check out the prices and their availability here in SG. Thanks!
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NeverGG
United Kingdom5399 Posts
On January 21 2010 16:26 konadora wrote:Whoa, thanks for the HUUUUGE lengthy post, took some time to read them haha. I'm going for a sports event shoot tomorrow (Rugby, just 5 days in... man) so those tips are really gonna help me out a lot. I'll post some tomorrow :D @phosphorylation: I don't have that much money T___T I have trouble buying lenses that are like 200USD. (Mainly because I don't have a job, and being a student, I go out a lot  ) Still, your set sounds very interesting, I'll check out the prices and their availability here in SG. Thanks!
It took me 4 months to save for my 70-200mm and I have a full time job. My advice is cut back a little bit on your spending and save up for better quality lenses. If you make excuses to go for the cheap options you're going to regret it if you have any intention of really committing to this as a hobby upon a more regular basis.
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unless you are doing sport photography all the time (or is just too lazy to focus manually), i don't see a reason not to deal with the older lenses optically, they are superb and match the modern equivalents; the leica ones are best lenses period you will also save so much money, its ridiculous
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konadora
Singapore66131 Posts
lol at that rate, it might take me a year or so.. T__T
I'm already cutting back on food and stuff though :D
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On January 21 2010 20:39 phosphorylation wrote: unless you are doing sport photography all the time (or is just too lazy to focus manually), i don't see a reason not to deal with the older lenses optically, they are superb and match the modern equivalents; the leica ones are best lenses period you will also save so much money, its ridiculous lol, buying leica isn't going to save you any money...
tbh I'd just stick with your 50mm 1.8 for now, until you get a better feel for what you're doing. It's a very capable lens.
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Man, I swore I saw the title saying "getting into pornagraphy" I was like WHAT? Kona is going to be a pornstar? Lol... sorry, I had just finished reading the chinese porno thread ;p <33
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Shooting field sports like rugby are really really really fun. I used to shoot two games of American soccer a week for my university's paper (one for girls and guys each). At first I kinda got mad 'cause they just shoved those games onto me, but after I got used to it, I had a LOT of fun.
You're going to want a telephoto lens, though. I had a 70-200 f/2.8 lent to me from the school which was perfect. That lens is seriously godly. It can be used for SO many situations.
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On January 21 2010 23:34 TimmyMac wrote:Show nested quote +On January 21 2010 20:39 phosphorylation wrote: unless you are doing sport photography all the time (or is just too lazy to focus manually), i don't see a reason not to deal with the older lenses optically, they are superb and match the modern equivalents; the leica ones are best lenses period you will also save so much money, its ridiculous lol, buying leica isn't going to save you any money... tbh I'd just stick with your 50mm 1.8 for now, until you get a better feel for what you're doing. It's a very capable lens.
Comparatively no, since most old manual lenses go for less than 100. But still compared to the alternative, the older manual leica lenses are still much cheaper (less than 500)
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