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Active: 1152 users

Getting into photography + some random blurb - Page 2

Blogs > konadora
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NeverGG *
Profile Blog Joined January 2008
United Kingdom5399 Posts
January 20 2010 04:06 GMT
#21
'2nd shot, more emphasis on guy on left, get closer be like nevergg on progamers'

Makes me sound like I'm sitting on their laps or something XD Sorry for the quickie. I'm at work.
우리 행운의 모양은 여러개지만 행복의 모양은 하나
TimmyMac
Profile Joined December 2008
Canada499 Posts
January 20 2010 04:55 GMT
#22
Who did you borrow the 17-40 f4L from? That's a really expensive lens.

NeverGG you're always welcome to a quickie.
phosphorylation
Profile Blog Joined July 2009
United States2935 Posts
Last Edited: 2010-01-20 05:10:10
January 20 2010 05:06 GMT
#23
technicalities are only means to an end
also digital post-processing cannot really be overlooked in the digital age
lightroom is much easier to deal with than photoshop -- although photoshop gives you finer control
Buy prints of my photographs at Redbubble -> http://www.redbubble.com/people/shoenberg3
TimmyMac
Profile Joined December 2008
Canada499 Posts
January 20 2010 05:38 GMT
#24
Don't be afraid of raising iso. A lot of times you need it to get enough speed to freeze motion, or enough depth of focus to get your composition to work. I don't know how good the 400D is at high iso performance but digital is generally much better than film.

Some things you might consider investing in - a circular polarizing filter, and an ND filter for using when it's really bright and you still want access to higher apertures. Get these on ebay, they're cheap and unless you're comparing to high-end $80 multicoated filters, they're the same as anything in a camera shop. That's about all you need for shooting digital since color filters can be simulated in photoshop for both color and black and white final outputs.

Figure out when and why to use exposure and white balance compensation. Your exposures on most of these shots is pretty good though, despite what a lot of people have to say.
Terranlisk
Profile Blog Joined February 2007
Singapore1404 Posts
Last Edited: 2010-01-20 06:20:51
January 20 2010 06:12 GMT
#25
metering is something that tells you how underexposed or how overexposed your photo is going to come out with your current settings.
aka myheronoob
kyzers0ze
Profile Blog Joined March 2009
Singapore1073 Posts
Last Edited: 2010-01-20 06:30:58
January 20 2010 06:24 GMT
#26
<3 scss

also,
don't exercise everyday, muscles need rest after a workout for your whole exercise routine to be effective. change up your routine constantly also. for example go jogging on 1 day and do weight exercises on another. warmups are also very important

i know about muscles. i study them.

and what the fuck were u doing at 11pm when u have to get up at like, what? 6?
8==========))
Sadistx
Profile Blog Joined February 2009
Zimbabwe5568 Posts
January 20 2010 06:34 GMT
#27
The 2 most important things I've learned from my photography class and experience:

1.Never use flash (not the progamer).

2.Try not to use ISO over 400

Otherwise it looks like you're off to a good start. Someone more experienced like NeverGG will probably be a lot more help if she finds free time for you :p
konadora *
Profile Blog Joined February 2009
Singapore66355 Posts
January 20 2010 11:11 GMT
#28
Haven't uploaded a photo for example yet, but I've been playing around with my camera in my lit room. Room isn't that bright, and room is small.

I've been trying to take shots from below my desk to my monitor, setting is at 400 ISO, f5 ~ 10 (varied range, been playing around) and I see that my monitor is bright while everything else is very dark. How do I solve this? (Once again, on Av mode with my 17-40mm lens)
POGGERS
PH
Profile Blog Joined June 2008
United States6173 Posts
January 20 2010 11:34 GMT
#29
On January 20 2010 14:38 TimmyMac wrote:
Don't be afraid of raising iso. A lot of times you need it to get enough speed to freeze motion, or enough depth of focus to get your composition to work. I don't know how good the 400D is at high iso performance but digital is generally much better than film.

Digital may be able to control noise better than film, but film noise doesn't look as bad as digital noise does, lol.

On January 20 2010 15:34 Sadistx wrote:
The 2 most important things I've learned from my photography class and experience:

1.Never use flash (not the progamer).

2.Try not to use ISO over 400

Otherwise it looks like you're off to a good start. Someone more experienced like NeverGG will probably be a lot more help if she finds free time for you :p

1. I assume you're talking about the onboard flash. Fill flashes are very useful during the day, and even the onboard flash can help with that. In addition, there are some cases where you can get by with the onboard one.

2. Agreed.
Hello
konadora *
Profile Blog Joined February 2009
Singapore66355 Posts
January 20 2010 14:07 GMT
#30
Still hoping that Negg might post some tips XD
POGGERS
TimmyMac
Profile Joined December 2008
Canada499 Posts
January 20 2010 16:37 GMT
#31
On January 20 2010 15:34 Sadistx wrote:
1.Never use flash (not the progamer).

2.Try not to use ISO over 400

Never using flash is plain wrong, and some of the outdoor pics in this set could have used a little flash to illuminate the subject better and control the highlights in the background.

As far as ISO settings, that depends entirely on how fast you need your shutter to be and what body you're using. I'd have no problem using a D700 at 800 or 1600 if necessary.
TimmyMac
Profile Joined December 2008
Canada499 Posts
Last Edited: 2010-01-20 16:39:37
January 20 2010 16:38 GMT
#32
On January 21 2010 01:37 TimmyMac wrote:
Show nested quote +
On January 20 2010 15:34 Sadistx wrote:
1.Never use flash (not the progamer).

2.Try not to use ISO over 400

Never using flash is plain wrong, and some of the outdoor pics in this set could have used a little flash to illuminate the subject better and control the highlights in the background. Ever been in a studio? Flashes everywhere. Ever seen a pro wedding photographer? Flash on most shots.

As far as ISO settings, that depends entirely on how fast you need your shutter to be and what body you're using. I'd have no problem using a D700 at 800 or 1600 if necessary.


EDIT: HOLY HELL QUOTED MYSELF TRYING TO EDIT WTF
alffla
Profile Blog Joined November 2005
Hong Kong20321 Posts
January 20 2010 17:46 GMT
#33
what d ou look like kona o O_
Graphicssavior[gm] : What is a “yawn” rape ;; Masumune - It was the year of the pig for those fucking defilers. Chill - A clinic you say? okum: SC without Korean yelling is like porn without sex. konamix: HAPPY BIRTHDAY MOMMY!
KawaiiRice
Profile Blog Joined May 2007
United States2914 Posts
January 20 2010 17:47 GMT
#34
Protip: Take a picture of Mizuki Nana and your photography level increases by over 9000.
@KawaiiRiceLighT
NeverGG *
Profile Blog Joined January 2008
United Kingdom5399 Posts
January 21 2010 04:06 GMT
#35
On January 20 2010 23:07 konadora wrote:
Still hoping that Negg might post some tips XD


I am so happy over all the votes of confidence, but I think people have some misconceptions about how technical I get with my cameras. I don't really pay that much attention to settings because I focus far more upon angles, bokeh and generally capturing emotion/that special moment.

I usually have everything set to ISO 800, auto mode when using the Canon inside. I'd use manual, but eSports photography often requires you to be running around quickly capturing images and staying out of the line of cameras/other crew etc. I'm still learning how to use the Canon so I can probably give more techy stuff once I have figured out the best manner in which to employ my external flash etc.

My advice is always going to be less on the technical side and more on the emotive/girly side. I don't know whether that kind of thing would be useful to you, or not.
우리 행운의 모양은 여러개지만 행복의 모양은 하나
konadora *
Profile Blog Joined February 2009
Singapore66355 Posts
January 21 2010 04:41 GMT
#36
Oooh haha, I mean not about the camera technical settings, but more about some tips about how to take better shots (and if you can, criticise on my photos in the OP and tell me how I can improve on them, unless PH already mentioned them or something).
POGGERS
Jonoman92
Profile Blog Joined September 2006
United States9104 Posts
January 21 2010 04:48 GMT
#37
On January 20 2010 08:32 Foucault wrote:
Holy fuck lol

I read the thread title as "Getting into pornography + some random blurb"


lol me too, and then I was wondering what the hell would be in a spoilered picture....
NeverGG *
Profile Blog Joined January 2008
United Kingdom5399 Posts
Last Edited: 2010-01-21 06:15:41
January 21 2010 06:10 GMT
#38
On January 21 2010 13:41 konadora wrote:
Oooh haha, I mean not about the camera technical settings, but more about some tips about how to take better shots (and if you can, criticise on my photos in the OP and tell me how I can improve on them, unless PH already mentioned them or something).


I think PH has the op shots covered - he's better at this than I am. In terms of personal advice about how take shots it is entirely dependant upon the context within which you're photographing. I'll try and be as detailed as possible and hopefully this will give you some starting points.

I'm not qualified to talk about landscape photography yet so I'll focus on my three regular types of photography;

+ Portraits with a model.
+ Inanimate objects.
+ Event photography where you're dealing with candid subjects plus inanimate objects.

Portraits with a model:

+ Show Spoiler +
+ Talk to the subject before hand. Get them to relax as much as possible and try and make them laugh even if it means acting like an idiot. (I have done this with too many of the gamers to count and it makes a distinct difference in the photos.) It helps to throw subjects off balance at times by doing something really weird (for example the shoulder cat shoots or hugging Effort.) because then even if it's not positive you'll capture some real emotion.

I often talk to my models when shooting them to provoke smiles, laughter or even confusion. That honest emotion can make a world of difference to a posed photo.

For example - we were both laughing like twats when this was taken;

[image loading]


+ Do not allow outside interference with the shoot. If someone attempts to interrupt your work promptly tell them to go away (politely if you can.)

+ Location is key for these kinds of shoots. Try to choose somewhere as versatile as possible. With a good source of natural light or some form of interesting artificial light to play off of if you're working in low light conditions;

For Example:

I used a light on the outside of the OGN building to provide contrast (and an actual light source so no flash was used.) here;

[image loading]


This is a useful technique for people with strong profiles and facial features because you can use photoshop to highlight the interesting points upon their face in post-production.

Also consider the bokeh you will be creating with different backgrounds. Even if an element of the photo is not in focus it can contribute to the over all contrast or warmth/coldness of a photo;

For Example: I specifically selected this location for the contrast of greens/pinks in the background to highlight the concept of 'flower boys' and bring out a softer side to a player who has been seen as serious and robotic at times;

[image loading]


Same here with this shot of Hwasin - using the lines of the wall to draw focus;

[image loading]


I'm not really a composition junkie, but it is something you need to consider when taking portraits.

+ When using props keep it simple and try to tie in the color/idea of the prop to the concept of your shoot;

For Example:

The concept for this shoot was both to tie in the red of the CJ Entus uniform highlights and also reflect the song/weather;

http://www.teamliquid.net/forum/viewmessage.php?topic_id=94927

[image loading]


I've also used props that tie in with other elements such as a gamer's personality, nicknames or uniforms in the past. If you want to use a prop then give it a meaning or purpose so it doesn't seem as if it's been tacked on impulsively (and you can defend it's use if called for.)


Inanimate objects.

+ Show Spoiler +
+ Never be satisfied with one angle. Experiment with different arrangements if your object is movable. I've found that creating textures upon which you can focus and reducing most of the rest of the photo to bokeh provides some interesting images.

If the object is not movable then change your position as much as possible. Seek out different light sources and if possible get yourself to different heights for a new perspective. I've even done this during portraits using a chair or climbing a ladder to provide a fresh angle.

If the object is reflective (mirrors/metal.) then use different items and even yourself to create a smear of colors or a separate image within the photo itself.

+ Colors and textures are your friend.

+ Try different artificial lighting sources. I'm yet to experiment with this, but if you're working with a small object such as food or anything else that fits on a table then you can use a standing lamp or even create a simple light tent using white paper, foils and a lamp to make the image more vivid or highlight certain element (playing with light and shadow can dramatically change the mood of a photo.)

I've also been wanting to experiment with fluid and possibly flecking or dunking items in water/paint to see how this affects the image and it's mood. However, that's a challenge for another time.

+ If you want to get super close ups then you'll be needing a macro lens. I don't have one, but I find my little lens (I'll check on the specs for you when I get home.) is perfectly sufficient for shots like this;

[image loading]


See what I mean about textures and colors? This is a really busy photo, but I wanted to reflect the candy colored excesses of Japanese style 'cuteness.'


Event Photos:

+ Show Spoiler +
+ Be aware of your surroundings at all times. It is easy to get lost or distracted by both the camera itself and events outside of it. If you're photographing an event then commit to it entirely.

My basic rules for an event are;

~ No friends. They might distract you by wanting to go for food/somewhere else etc etc.
~ No phone. Calls and texts can ruin your rhythm.
~ No lunch breaks. Food can make you sluggish and unmotivated. Eating before and after is fine though.
~ Don't stop until you're satisfied. (Which I never am.)

This might sound crazy, but it's only by leaving all distractions at the door that I'm able to focus on the event and bringing the best photos possible to other people.

What you need to do is figure out your own pace for shooting and what works for you. I am very particular about everything during events and pressure myself so hard I've been known to get sick for several days after something very important.

However, a more relaxed approach might be your style. So practice, practice, practice and put yourself into as many different situations as possible before finding your own rhythm and how you choose to approach photography in a more candid capacity.

+ Keep it on the down low - when shooting I've found that the best approach to getting candid shots is to take yourself out of the equation. Hang back, stay quiet and wait whilst being observant for people to be off guard. The best photos of a person can be when they're not posing so don't grab people for photos - let their expressions and emotions do the work for you.

For example;

[image loading]


Raw emotion like this can't be replicated.

+ Don't worry if it's a bit blurry. With things like sporting events and gatherings being clinical or producing photos that can be turned into graphics (like most of my photo shoots can be.) shouldn't matter. You are there to capture a moment and preserve it, to celebrate emotion and honesty. (Or at least this is my slightly romantic view of event photography.)

[image loading]


[image loading]


Color, texture and feeling are all key components in event photography and you can get away with a larger degree of blurriness or lack of composition because you don't have the added luxury of going back and checking/repeating a pose or moment.

If you check Fomos even my mentor Mr.Kang posts blurred photos when they are of especially significant moments.


General Advice:

+ Don't be afraid to go where other people don't dare. I've gotten a lot of my shots through hiding behind speakers, ducking under barriers and generally looking for the angles the other photographers aren't taking. Don't be too afraid to take risks and to put yourself in a little bit of danger as long as it's not going to end in a broken camera or a broken self.

Reckless? Yes. Effective? Often, yes too.

+ Also make sure your equipment is always charged and ready to go. Keep all your supplies together in one drawer or camera bag. Clean them even when not in use upon a regular basis. Do not let other people borrow or handle your camera/supplies even if you trust them. Fellow photographers are alright and people you *really* trust. However, don't take that risk if you can help it.

Always back up important photos and clear out your memory card after each use. Double and triple check all equipment before any important events or holidays etc. I triple check even before Proleague.

+ Make sure you have effective photo imaging tools on your computer for post-processing. Anyone who tells you they haven't edited a professional/semi-pro grade looking photo is lying their ass off. Except under certain rare circumstances where a photo turns out perfectly first time. You will always at least need to resize it.

I use a combination of Ifranview for resizing and batch conversions and PS7 for color/contrast/brightness and other more advanced editing issues.

Having your own water mark is both a good way to protect your photos from being used by someone else and mark them as a part of your body of work.

+ Remember that in this hobby 90% of the time you get what you pay for. Research what you're actually going to spend the majority of your time photographing and the conditions under which you will be working. My own kit all has a specific function;

Nikon D40X - Back up camera. Used for music events and some personal photography when the location/circumstances might be riskier.

Sigma EX 70-200mm lens - Originally bought for zoom capabilities which allow shots of gamers/booths from a distance.

Canon EOS5D - Bought specifically because it is the body of Mr.Kang so I knew it would work in my chosen locations. There was no financial reason to go higher than this model because it's dependability had been proven.

Canon L-class 70-200mm IS USM f/2.8 lens - Again part of Mr.Kang's kit. It is the standard choice for many professional journalists.

My other lens I've forgotten the specs for - Bought for close up/portrait work and also close up inanimate work. Much smaller, lighter and more compact than the 70-200mm it's a good daily use lens.

Privi polaroid from DSLR mini printer - the best other item I own. This mini printer is the size of video tape and prints polaroids directly from my DSLR via a single cable. It was cheap and provides a tangible means of sharing my work with potential 'clients' and also the models. I've used it to distribute photos to many of the gamers and also friends. (Susie got Boxer photos last Xmas ^_~ )

I hope this helps and if I think of anything else I'll edit it in later on. If you've got any other questions please hit me up - via MSN is probably the best option or in here.
우리 행운의 모양은 여러개지만 행복의 모양은 하나
TimmyMac
Profile Joined December 2008
Canada499 Posts
January 21 2010 06:25 GMT
#39
I'm curious - why a different brand of backup body? And why the same focal length on your backup?
NeverGG *
Profile Blog Joined January 2008
United Kingdom5399 Posts
January 21 2010 06:27 GMT
#40
On January 21 2010 15:25 TimmyMac wrote:
I'm curious - why a different brand of backup body? And why the same focal length on your backup?


Because the back up was bought one year before the Canon back when I wasn't doing this work properly and lacked the experience I do now. Obviously I couldn't transfer the Sigma to the Canon because it's a Nikon mount. I also wanted to specifically replicate Mr. Kang's kit because I knew it could produce the kinds of photos I wanted to be taking.
우리 행운의 모양은 여러개지만 행복의 모양은 하나
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