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@Skyr, is there really a game that the GTX 780 can't run comfortably at max settings? I did some research and apparently that's indeed the case, the card can't play Crysis 3 on max settings. I'm actually pretty surprised. My bad, my bad.
Still, it's not like there's a huge visual difference between truly maxed settings and "just" x4 AA and High Quality or something. thanks for pointing that out! ^^
@ riotjune
If your budget is $800-900 including monitor and OS then that build is too expensive really. If you're really set on playing games like LoL or SC2 on relatively low settings (not sure about borderlands 2) then you probably don't need an i5. Especially not on a budget like that one. I would recommend building around something like an i3-4130 and a 7770. You can always upgrade down the line if you choose your PSU carefully now.
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My laptop has windows 7 for os.
is there a way i can move it (only the os) to a usb and install the os onto a new PC (i guess to a new harddrive)
instead of buying a new dvd copy of windows 7?
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On October 10 2013 13:36 riotjune wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Hello, My laptop is starting to fail after I abused it during a bad game (I feel terrible about it). I was thinking of buying a desktop from Cyperpower but decided to try my hand at building my own pc after remembering TL has this thread. I've never built one before (total computer noob) and after going through the op's post and watching a video and trying to familiarize myself with the process (as well as the component names and brand names), I've settled for the "typical gamer" sample build for the US from skyR's second post (last edit was about a month ago): + Show Spoiler +
Processor (CPU): $215 Intel Core i5 4670
Motherboard: $75 MSI B85M-G43
Memory (RAM): $60 G.Skill Ripjaws X 2x4GB 1600MHz
Video Card (GPU): $185 Sapphire Radeon HD7870 GHz Edition OC 2GB
Primary Storage: $165 Samsung 840 250GB
Secondary Storage: $55 Western Digital Blue 500GB
Power Supply (PSU): $60 Rosewill Capstone 450
Case: $50 Corsair Carbide 200R
What is your budget?
I was thinking $800-$900, but I will also need a monitor, a keyboard, and Windows 8, which puts the above config over my budget. I was thinking maybe I should lower the quality of some parts, but I'm dead set on Intel i5 and a SSD drive.
What is your monitor's native resolution?
Don't have a monitor since I use a laptop. I hope to get one that's not too expensive.
What games do you intend to play on this computer? What settings?
The usual Blizzard games (SC2, D3) on the lowest settings. Also some steam games, fps (Borderlands 2) and hopefully some fighting games (Street Fighter 4, KOF13). I usually play pc games on the lowest settings anyway to increase performance. Going to quit LoL since that's how my laptop got messed up in the first place grrr...(also on lowest settings, though I probably should've turned on shadows for Zed?)
What do you intend to use the computer for besides gaming?
Internet, word processing with Microsoft Word, some Excel (looks like I have to shell out more money for Microsoft Office?), watching HD movies, music. I don't stream and don't plan on doing so.
Do you intend to overclock?
I don't know how to, so probably not right now, though I would like to learn in the future.
Do you intend to do SLI / Crossfire?
I play on lowest settings, so probably not.
Do you need an operating system?
Windows 8, maybe an older one like 7 since I'm more familiar with that one.
Do you need a monitor or any other peripherals and is this part of your budget?
I need a monitor and keyboard, and I hope I can squeeze them into my budget. Though for the keyboard I can make an exception to go over since I'm thinking of getting one of the Razer ones.
If you have any requirements or brand preferences, please specify.
Maybe the Intel Core i5, though it probably is more than I need?
What country will you be buying your parts in?
United States
If you have any retailer preferences, please specify.
None I can think off really. I'll probably be buying most, if not all, of the components through Newegg since that's the one I'm most familiar with. Unless, of course, there are other sites where I can get them for less.
Also, will I need an optical drive to install Windows? Before I go order any parts, any input/critique/advice would be very much appreciated!
$20 over =[ and no keyboard. Twas the best I could do without sacrificing much. You could get a Boost 1GB for $20 cheaper but I kind of regret getting a 1GB version of the 7850, also your getting the best cooler too, which is nice since it's the cheapest 2GB boost. 1x4GB RAM so you can get another 4GB stick later on.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4570 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock H81M-HDS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($58.97 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Tactical 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($37.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($62.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 650 Ti Boost 2GB Video Card ($153.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 430W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($14.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.00 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Asus VS229H-P 21.5" Monitor ($142.61 @ Amazon)
Total: $920.49
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-10-10 03:00 EDT-0400)
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On October 10 2013 15:51 IMKR wrote:
My laptop has windows 7 for os.
is there a way i can move it (only the os) to a usb and install the os onto a new PC (i guess to a new harddrive)
instead of buying a new dvd copy of windows 7?
If you just want the disc, here are legit download links of the disc images: http://www.w7forums.com/threads/official-windows-7-sp1-iso-image-downloads.12325/
From what I've seen, you just need a USB stick that's formatted as FAT32 on a Windows 7 or 8 PC, then open the .iso image and put the contents onto the USB stick. It should just work and be able to boot.
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Oh, there was an SSD in the first build, didn't see. my bad
Anyway: http://fr.pcpartpicker.com/p/1N304
Prices are mostly off so don't look too much into that. Real total is about €410 (might be lower if I can cannibalize some parts from older PCs). Looking for possible criticism. This is an HTPC that will mostly be used for playing music on a sound system, as well as browsing the web and using programs such as the office pack for work. SSD to make everything boot very quickly. Sound card for high quality sound.
CPU - AMD A4-5300 3.4 GHz, €41
Motherboard - MSI FM2-A55M-E33, €48
Should be more than sufficient for playing music and browsing the internet. Integrated graphics should be sufficient. These two don't cost all that much either, seems like a great deal.
RAM - G.Skill 2 Gb, €19
Highly doubt more is needed and if it's the case, then it's easy to just buy another stick and pop it in.
SSD - Samsung EVO 120 Gb, €91
More than enough to have Windows 7, the Office pack and music stored. There's enough room in the case for a hard drive if necessary.
Case - Silverstone ML03B, €72
HTPC case that looks nice and isn't too expensive.
PSU - Antec Earthwatts Green 380W, €50
I feel it's a bit overkill for this rig and I wouldn't mind having something less powerful. Though at 50€ it's not too expensive.
Sound Card - ASUS Xonar DX, €69
I've only heard good things about this card. Reviews are positive and it's going to be well adapted for its role. My audiophile friends have approved.
Optical drive, €20
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On October 10 2013 14:25 Incognoto wrote:
@ riotjune
If your budget is $800-900 including monitor and OS then that build is too expensive really. If you're really set on playing games like LoL or SC2 on relatively low settings (not sure about borderlands 2) then you probably don't need an i5. Especially not on a budget like that one. I would recommend building around something like an i3-4130 and a 7770. You can always upgrade down the line if you choose your PSU carefully now.
Thank you so much for the responses!
I have Windows 7 Home Premium OA on my laptop as well. I was thinking of doing what IMKR suggested and Ropid has already provided the images, so if I use my product key I think I can save another $89. If this doesn't work, I think I can get it through my school.
Should I consider getting the standard ATX motherboard and case to fit it, if I want to add stuff down the line or upgrade in the future? If I up my budget to $1000, will it be possible to get them? Will I need some stuff from the "More" tab in PCpartpicker? For internet, I have Time Warner Cable, so if I just plug in the ethernet cable from the router/modem it should be fine and I don't have to configure any settings? (for wireless laptops it was easy since you just find the name and enter password). I'm guessing a sound card isn't mandatory as well and I will still have sound?
Edit: Hmm, looks like the motherboard will come with internet and sound capabilities, though wireless is not included (probably won't need it).
Going to familiarize myself with PCpartpicker while I'm at it~
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If all you really need is a basic motherboard, then you're fine with the microATX motherboard. Even a microATX board will accomodate high end cards and processors. However you won't be able to overclock and you won't be able to add something else like a sound card or a second GPU.
If you want to be able to overclock in the future however, you'll need a Z87 board (ATX). Generally most people recommend getting a Gigabyte Z87X-D3H motherboard if you're getting a Z87 chipset.
Something important to not forget is that if you're planning on upgrading in the future, you have to make sure that your PSU will be beefy enough to support it. You should be fine generally speaking but don't try to crossfire 7970s with an overclocked i7 on a 450w PSU.
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On October 10 2013 21:36 riotjune wrote:
Should I consider getting the standard ATX motherboard and case to fit it, if I want to add stuff down the line or upgrade in the future?
Not really...Anything you can do with ATX you can do with mATX, barring 3+ GPU setups.
On October 10 2013 22:14 Incognoto wrote:
However you won't be able to overclock and you won't be able to add something else like a sound card or a second GPU.
Yeah you can. 3rd PCIe Slot is an x1.
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On October 10 2013 22:14 Incognoto wrote:
However you won't be able to overclock and you won't be able to add something else like a sound card or a second GPU.
If you want to be able to overclock in the future however, you'll need a Z87 board (ATX). Generally most people recommend getting a Gigabyte Z87X-D3H motherboard if you're getting a Z87 chipset.
Wrong. Chipset not form factor denotes overclocking ability. Z87 is available in mATX and ATX form factors, even some of the more esoteric ones like mITX and E-ATX.
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On October 10 2013 23:02 Rollin wrote:Show nested quote +On October 10 2013 22:14 Incognoto wrote:
However you won't be able to overclock and you won't be able to add something else like a sound card or a second GPU.
If you want to be able to overclock in the future however, you'll need a Z87 board (ATX). Generally most people recommend getting a Gigabyte Z87X-D3H motherboard if you're getting a Z87 chipset. Wrong. Chipset not form factor denotes overclocking ability. Z87 is available in mATX and ATX form factors, even some of the more esoteric ones like mITX and E-ATX.
Is that so? Didn't know that, I always assumed that chipsets were set into a certain size. the more you hang in this thread the more you learn eh
@synpah true but then you have to make sure that your graphics card isn't too fat. i think, though I would have to check when I get home, that my sapphire 7970 blocked the pciex1 port on my motherboard so that i can't add a wireless or sound card
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Thank you~
I think I'll go with itzsnypah's recommended build sans the OS, which comes to about $830 (nice!). I'm guessing I won't be able to overclock until I get a standard ATX Z87 someday, so that lesson will be put on hold (or do it on a friend's machine heh). I will be ordering the parts today.
Thanks again everyone, your help is VERY MUCH appreciated!
I will report back on how my first custom built went (if I stick to the videos I should be fine right?)
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On October 10 2013 23:19 riotjune wrote:
Thank you~
I think I'll go with itzsnypah's recommended build sans the OS, which comes to about $830 (nice!). I'm guessing I won't be able to overclock until I get a standard ATX (edit: Z87) someday, so that lesson will be put on hold (or do it on a friend's machine heh). I will be ordering the parts today.
Thanks again everyone, your help is VERY MUCH appreciated!
I will report back on how my first custom built went (if I stick to the videos I should be fine right?)
You can overclock on a non-atx motherboard, as long as it's z87...
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United Kingdom20323 Posts
@Skyr, is there really a game that the GTX 780 can't run comfortably at max settings? I did some research and apparently that's indeed the case, the card can't play Crysis 3 on max settings. I'm actually pretty surprised.
I don't think anyone will have trouble playing crysis 3 on a 780 for 1920x1080, with a couple settings lowered for a few hours of gameplay my FPS was often in the hundreds with a 770, and oc'd 780 is like 30, 40% stronger. Not exactly worst case fps, but if you don't have hard hitting AA on and you turn a few settings down 1 notch you're mostly fine with a far weaker card i think
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On October 10 2013 21:36 riotjune wrote:Show nested quote +On October 10 2013 14:25 Incognoto wrote:
@ riotjune
If your budget is $800-900 including monitor and OS then that build is too expensive really. If you're really set on playing games like LoL or SC2 on relatively low settings (not sure about borderlands 2) then you probably don't need an i5. Especially not on a budget like that one. I would recommend building around something like an i3-4130 and a 7770. You can always upgrade down the line if you choose your PSU carefully now. Thank you so much for the responses! I have Windows 7 Home Premium OA on my laptop as well. I was thinking of doing what IMKR suggested and Ropid has already provided the images, so if I use my product key I think I can save another $89. If this doesn't work, I think I can get it through my school. Should I consider getting the standard ATX motherboard and case to fit it, if I want to add stuff down the line or upgrade in the future? If I up my budget to $1000, will it be possible to get them? Will I need some stuff from the "More" tab in PCpartpicker? For internet, I have Time Warner Cable, so if I just plug in the ethernet cable from the router/modem it should be fine and I don't have to configure any settings? (for wireless laptops it was easy since you just find the name and enter password). I'm guessing a sound card isn't mandatory as well and I will still have sound? Edit: Hmm, looks like the motherboard will come with internet and sound capabilities, though wireless is not included (probably won't need it). Going to familiarize myself with PCpartpicker while I'm at it~
just fyi, if you check some of the items before you buy - you might be able to find something similar for $2-4 more but free S+H (esp on newegg) and end up saving some money there. (Just something to keep in mind.)
While I'm posting in this thread.... I'm considering a LAN pc build (mITX, low profile gpu...)... anyway, one of my biggest concerns is weight. I'm assuming SSDs weigh a lot less than HDs, is this correct?
e:
On October 11 2013 07:16 skyR wrote:
Yes, SSDs weigh like almost 10x less.
thanks!
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Yes, SSDs weigh like almost 10x less.
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Sorry for posting again. Just want to put my final build up to check that it makes sense n' all that.
edit: see below
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Hyper 212 is generally not suggested for Haswell as it isn't good enough to keep it cool.
Keep in mind you need a $100+ order at NCIX US to qualify for free shipping. The rest is okay I guess.
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He said it was for light overclocking, and also Z87M-G43 isn't going to be the overclocking champ either. At around however far you get with almost no voltage increase, you probably shouldn't need that great cooling.
There's also the Hyper T4 out there as well for $20 before $5 rebate, which seems reasonable enough outside of one questionable review out there.
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EPT
