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On April 18 2015 14:15 XenOmega wrote: Hey everyone!
Was wondering if someone could give me some quick information on what I should be looking at for a 1000$ build! I've been out of touch of the Computer world for some years so I'm not sure how things progressed!
EDIT : Current computer is I5-760, with Nvidia 460 GPU. Been getting alot of blue screen + slow loadings issues (take a few minutes to boot up, and many minutes to load Diablo 3). Unsure if I can fix it (Diablo 3 isn't very demanding as a game)
What is your budget? 1000$
What is your monitor's native resolution? 1080p
What games do you intend to play on this computer? What settings? Right now, only Diablo 3. Not the biggest gamer.
What do you intend to use the computer for besides gaming? Nothing (game + Office)
Do you intend to overclock? No, unless needed.
Do you intend to do SLI / Crossfire? No, unless needed.
Do you need an operating system? Possibly Windows 8.
Do you need a monitor or any other peripherals and is this part of your budget? Nope. Will probably upgrade later.
If you have any requirements or brand preferences, please specify. None
What country will you be buying your parts in? Canada
If you have any retailer preferences, please specify. NCIX.com (since they offer pricematch)
Unless you're not happy with the performance now, you could diagnose and fix the bluescreens and grab an SSD for like $50 and then i don't see a problem with what you have ATM
On April 18 2015 20:27 Enforsaken wrote: What is your budget? I'd like to stay somewhere around 800-1000 (1000 absolute max) USD. Obviously cheaper is better but it depends on what will be better for the build in the long term
What is your monitor's native resolution? 1920x1080
What games do you intend to play on this computer? What settings? SC2, H1Z1, Battlefield, maybe Heroes of the Storm etc. I've only been playing SC2 for the last few years since that's all my old rig could handle. It's time for an upgrade and with it an upgrade in the number of games I could play.
What do you intend to use the computer for besides gaming? Nothing really, I do school work on a MacBook Pro. This will be for games and that's pretty much it.
Do you intend to overclock? I picked the CPU because it's supposedly the "best bang for the buck" processor that's easily OC'd. I chose a different cooler than the stock one for the purpose of OC'ing.
Do you intend to do SLI / Crossfire? More than likely not. By the time I get to that point I'll get a new rig and just roll with it. BUT, I am always open to new suggestions
Do you need an operating system? No. I have Windows 7 that I'll be sticking with
Do you need a monitor or any other peripherals and is this part of your budget? I will be using my existing monitor. I've got speakers, keyboard mouse etc...
If you have any requirements or brand preferences, please specify. No specific requirements, just more mainstream brands in general because it seems like they have less quality control issues. I just don't want the pain of getting a part and having it either DOA or messing up in a month and having to send it back for a replacement. I chose the mobo because my previous mobo was an ASUS and I loved that freaking thing. Never had any problems with it.
What country will you be buying your parts in? United States
If you have any retailer preferences, please specify. Newegg would be nice. I checked the price on pcpartpicker between cheapest prices vs all from newegg and it was like a 8 dollar difference. I've been all over this forum, along with reddit and pcpartpicker and came up with some sort of build. I'm keeping my current HD and putting games/OS on the SSD then just using the regular old drive for mass storage. My only concern is that my graphics card is a GeForce GTS 450 (pretty old school). With the build I have picked out I was going to order all new parts except for the HD and my GPU. I plan on upgrading the GPU in the near future but just wanted to try and keep things on the low end for now rather than save up for the build + GPU. I've been looking at the Radeon R9 280X as a potential card cause it's around $200. I can't really spend more for one at the moment.
Grab a better CPU cooler if you want to max OC, if you don't mind falling back like 5% then that one is fine. Better air coolers just give you better temperatures with less noise.
Not much else to comment on, aside from samsung SSD: They recently had a huge hardware issue with their 840 and 840 EVO that they screwed over customers a lot with. They issued firmware updates for the 840 evo (but not the 840, which had the exact same issue) to improve the problem, but are unable to fix it and refused to offer refunds or recall the drives. That's a huge black mark on their record IMO so i would never buy from them if there were at all competitive options (and there clearly are, from crucial etc)
I like faster RAM (easy to grab some like 2133c9, 2400c10 for almost the same price as 1600) because it offers real performance improvements in several game engines (sc2/heroes engine, source engine, frostbite engine) - for example in sc2, ~10% FPS difference between 1600c9 and 2200c9 with my RAM (though actual perceived performance difference is smaller; maybe 5% because of complicated reasons) - min FPS rises more than average, as well
On April 18 2015 20:27 Enforsaken wrote: What is your budget? I'd like to stay somewhere around 800-1000 (1000 absolute max) USD. Obviously cheaper is better but it depends on what will be better for the build in the long term
What is your monitor's native resolution? 1920x1080
What games do you intend to play on this computer? What settings? SC2, H1Z1, Battlefield, maybe Heroes of the Storm etc. I've only been playing SC2 for the last few years since that's all my old rig could handle. It's time for an upgrade and with it an upgrade in the number of games I could play.
What do you intend to use the computer for besides gaming? Nothing really, I do school work on a MacBook Pro. This will be for games and that's pretty much it.
Do you intend to overclock? I picked the CPU because it's supposedly the "best bang for the buck" processor that's easily OC'd. I chose a different cooler than the stock one for the purpose of OC'ing.
Do you intend to do SLI / Crossfire? More than likely not. By the time I get to that point I'll get a new rig and just roll with it. BUT, I am always open to new suggestions
Do you need an operating system? No. I have Windows 7 that I'll be sticking with
Do you need a monitor or any other peripherals and is this part of your budget? I will be using my existing monitor. I've got speakers, keyboard mouse etc...
If you have any requirements or brand preferences, please specify. No specific requirements, just more mainstream brands in general because it seems like they have less quality control issues. I just don't want the pain of getting a part and having it either DOA or messing up in a month and having to send it back for a replacement. I chose the mobo because my previous mobo was an ASUS and I loved that freaking thing. Never had any problems with it.
What country will you be buying your parts in? United States
If you have any retailer preferences, please specify. Newegg would be nice. I checked the price on pcpartpicker between cheapest prices vs all from newegg and it was like a 8 dollar difference. I've been all over this forum, along with reddit and pcpartpicker and came up with some sort of build. I'm keeping my current HD and putting games/OS on the SSD then just using the regular old drive for mass storage. My only concern is that my graphics card is a GeForce GTS 450 (pretty old school). With the build I have picked out I was going to order all new parts except for the HD and my GPU. I plan on upgrading the GPU in the near future but just wanted to try and keep things on the low end for now rather than save up for the build + GPU. I've been looking at the Radeon R9 280X as a potential card cause it's around $200. I can't really spend more for one at the moment.
Grab a better CPU cooler if you want to max OC, if you don't mind falling back like 5% then that one is fine. Better air coolers just give you better temperatures with less noise.
Not much else to comment on, aside from samsung SSD: They recently had a huge hardware issue with their 840 and 840 EVO that they screwed over customers a lot with. They issued firmware updates for the 840 evo (but not the 840, which had the exact same issue) to improve the problem, but are unable to fix it and refused to offer refunds or recall the drives. That's a huge black mark on their record IMO so i would never buy from them if there were at all competitive options (and there clearly are, from crucial etc)
I like faster RAM (easy to grab some like 2133c9, 2400c10 for almost the same price as 1600) because it offers real performance improvements in several game engines (sc2/heroes engine, source engine, frostbite engine) - for example in sc2, ~10% FPS difference between 1600c9 and 2200c9 with my RAM (though actual perceived performance difference is smaller; maybe 5% because of complicated reasons) - min FPS rises more than average, as well
Thanks a ton for your response. I updated the build with the suggested changes http://pcpartpicker.com/p/zLjvkL I'm still not completely tech savvy so the RAM issue was something I would have never seen. I also didn't know about the samsung SSD issues either. Did you have any input about the GPU? I like the reviews and the specs for the Radeon R9 280X but I still don't know whether I want to pull the trigger on it, since it's been out for a while.
this RAM has less tall heatspreaders (taller heatspreaders are functionally useless, done for aesthetic/marketing reasons but they can often get in the way of CPU coolers etc)
Did you have any input about the GPU? I like the reviews and the specs for the Radeon R9 280X but I still don't know whether I want to pull the trigger on it, since it's been out for a while.
Yea, the 280/280x are rebranded 7950/7970 and are over 3 years old. It kinda sucks buying old tech, but AMD has been holding back on refreshing their lineup wherever they can help it and Nvidia is just kinda matching their price/performance, with a small premium
280/280x is still good, particularly for the 3GB VRAM at that price point. 280x is only somewhere around 10% faster than 280 though at the same clocks, so watch how much extra you're paying for it. Nvidia's competitor there is the 960, it is more efficient (less heat/noise), has a few extra features (MFAA is nice, NVENC is amazing if you're the kind of person to use it) and arguably has better drivers (more performance with any given CPU, but this is only hugely relevant and a big factor in choosing a GPU when you're playing a few games such as WoW or Wildstar - it doesn't seem to affect most other games that much, and the ones that it does sometimes have Mantle support to even the playing field)
overall i'd rate 960 as better if it didn't cost more and have only 2GB of VRAM. Those are pretty big problems for some people
On April 18 2015 20:27 Enforsaken wrote: What is your budget? I'd like to stay somewhere around 800-1000 (1000 absolute max) USD. Obviously cheaper is better but it depends on what will be better for the build in the long term
What is your monitor's native resolution? 1920x1080
What games do you intend to play on this computer? What settings? SC2, H1Z1, Battlefield, maybe Heroes of the Storm etc. I've only been playing SC2 for the last few years since that's all my old rig could handle. It's time for an upgrade and with it an upgrade in the number of games I could play.
What do you intend to use the computer for besides gaming? Nothing really, I do school work on a MacBook Pro. This will be for games and that's pretty much it.
Do you intend to overclock? I picked the CPU because it's supposedly the "best bang for the buck" processor that's easily OC'd. I chose a different cooler than the stock one for the purpose of OC'ing.
Do you intend to do SLI / Crossfire? More than likely not. By the time I get to that point I'll get a new rig and just roll with it. BUT, I am always open to new suggestions
Do you need an operating system? No. I have Windows 7 that I'll be sticking with
Do you need a monitor or any other peripherals and is this part of your budget? I will be using my existing monitor. I've got speakers, keyboard mouse etc...
If you have any requirements or brand preferences, please specify. No specific requirements, just more mainstream brands in general because it seems like they have less quality control issues. I just don't want the pain of getting a part and having it either DOA or messing up in a month and having to send it back for a replacement. I chose the mobo because my previous mobo was an ASUS and I loved that freaking thing. Never had any problems with it.
What country will you be buying your parts in? United States
If you have any retailer preferences, please specify. Newegg would be nice. I checked the price on pcpartpicker between cheapest prices vs all from newegg and it was like a 8 dollar difference. I've been all over this forum, along with reddit and pcpartpicker and came up with some sort of build. I'm keeping my current HD and putting games/OS on the SSD then just using the regular old drive for mass storage. My only concern is that my graphics card is a GeForce GTS 450 (pretty old school). With the build I have picked out I was going to order all new parts except for the HD and my GPU. I plan on upgrading the GPU in the near future but just wanted to try and keep things on the low end for now rather than save up for the build + GPU. I've been looking at the Radeon R9 280X as a potential card cause it's around $200. I can't really spend more for one at the moment.
Grab a better CPU cooler if you want to max OC, if you don't mind falling back like 5% then that one is fine. Better air coolers just give you better temperatures with less noise.
Not much else to comment on, aside from samsung SSD: They recently had a huge hardware issue with their 840 and 840 EVO that they screwed over customers a lot with. They issued firmware updates for the 840 evo (but not the 840, which had the exact same issue) to improve the problem, but are unable to fix it and refused to offer refunds or recall the drives. That's a huge black mark on their record IMO so i would never buy from them if there were at all competitive options (and there clearly are, from crucial etc)
I like faster RAM (easy to grab some like 2133c9, 2400c10 for almost the same price as 1600) because it offers real performance improvements in several game engines (sc2/heroes engine, source engine, frostbite engine) - for example in sc2, ~10% FPS difference between 1600c9 and 2200c9 with my RAM (though actual perceived performance difference is smaller; maybe 5% because of complicated reasons) - min FPS rises more than average, as well
Thanks a ton for your response. I updated the build with the suggested changes http://pcpartpicker.com/p/zLjvkL I'm still not completely tech savvy so the RAM issue was something I would have never seen. I also didn't know about the samsung SSD issues either. Did you have any input about the GPU? I like the reviews and the specs for the Radeon R9 280X but I still don't know whether I want to pull the trigger on it, since it's been out for a while.
I would just mention what Cyro mentioned to me, which was that if you can live with your GPU for about another year or so, there will be a significant improvement to GPU proc's which if you bought a card now you might wish you had waited (value wise).
It's just very hard to predict the impact far in advance, even rumors are just not accurate at all. AMD's upcoming high end GPU which is likely to hit around month 7-9 of this year was rumored to release in JANUARY, for example. Nobody knows the performance, price or release dates of these GPU's and while a lot of clickbait sites will claim to have these super awesome inside sources, it's really a game of yelling as much bullshit as possible in the hope that they'll only be wrong 99 times out of 100. Stuff is usually predicted or leaked in advance, but there's so much false info that it's very hard to say anything.
I am a fan of buying either expendable, or very high end stuff though. Right now there's not so good options for higher price points*, i would probably get a 280/960 for 1080p and try to flip it for some money back in 12-18 months to buy a next gen GPU. I do have very bad feelings about buying january 2012 tech in april-may of 2015, but that's just how it is right now because AMD's not doing so well
*A Titan GPU even partially disabled at gtx980 price point with 6GB of RAM would be a very solid high end buy. 290 and 970 won't be so great GPU's in a few years, but there's nothing to push nvidia to release such a product yet.
35:00 - 35:15
the effects of Nvidia refreshing their entire lineup while AMD has no real response for 10+ months
On April 18 2015 14:15 XenOmega wrote: Hey everyone!
Was wondering if someone could give me some quick information on what I should be looking at for a 1000$ build! I've been out of touch of the Computer world for some years so I'm not sure how things progressed!
EDIT : Current computer is I5-760, with Nvidia 460 GPU. Been getting alot of blue screen + slow loadings issues (take a few minutes to boot up, and many minutes to load Diablo 3). Unsure if I can fix it (Diablo 3 isn't very demanding as a game)
What is your budget? 1000$
What is your monitor's native resolution? 1080p
What games do you intend to play on this computer? What settings? Right now, only Diablo 3. Not the biggest gamer.
What do you intend to use the computer for besides gaming? Nothing (game + Office)
Do you intend to overclock? No, unless needed.
Do you intend to do SLI / Crossfire? No, unless needed.
Do you need an operating system? Possibly Windows 8.
Do you need a monitor or any other peripherals and is this part of your budget? Nope. Will probably upgrade later.
If you have any requirements or brand preferences, please specify. None
What country will you be buying your parts in? Canada
If you have any retailer preferences, please specify. NCIX.com (since they offer pricematch)
Unless you're not happy with the performance now, you could diagnose and fix the bluescreens and grab an SSD for like $50 and then i don't see a problem with what you have ATM
Thanks Cyro for the answer (and on the other thread too)
How should I should I proceed to identify the error? I cleaned the HD and reinstalled everything, but the error keeps popping from time to time. Also, load time are much slower than when the computer was younger!
SSd are now 50$ :O When I bought my first one, I remember the prices were still quite high...
On April 18 2015 14:15 XenOmega wrote: Hey everyone!
Was wondering if someone could give me some quick information on what I should be looking at for a 1000$ build! I've been out of touch of the Computer world for some years so I'm not sure how things progressed!
EDIT : Current computer is I5-760, with Nvidia 460 GPU. Been getting alot of blue screen + slow loadings issues (take a few minutes to boot up, and many minutes to load Diablo 3). Unsure if I can fix it (Diablo 3 isn't very demanding as a game)
What is your budget? 1000$
What is your monitor's native resolution? 1080p
What games do you intend to play on this computer? What settings? Right now, only Diablo 3. Not the biggest gamer.
What do you intend to use the computer for besides gaming? Nothing (game + Office)
Do you intend to overclock? No, unless needed.
Do you intend to do SLI / Crossfire? No, unless needed.
Do you need an operating system? Possibly Windows 8.
Do you need a monitor or any other peripherals and is this part of your budget? Nope. Will probably upgrade later.
If you have any requirements or brand preferences, please specify. None
What country will you be buying your parts in? Canada
If you have any retailer preferences, please specify. NCIX.com (since they offer pricematch)
Unless you're not happy with the performance now, you could diagnose and fix the bluescreens and grab an SSD for like $50 and then i don't see a problem with what you have ATM
Thanks Cyro for the answer (and on the other thread too)
How should I should I proceed to identify the error? I cleaned the HD and reinstalled everything, but the error keeps popping from time to time. Also, load time are much slower than when the computer was younger!
SSd are now 50$ :O When I bought my first one, I remember the prices were still quite high...
You can check the bluescreen codes from program called bluescreenview or something similar. I restart desktop to desktop in under 20 seconds (full restart on windows 7), but nowadays SSD's cost under 1/3'rd as much as mine did and are ~1.5x faster on sequential read and 4k IOPS (2 important stats)
Over the past months I have been tinkering around here and there, looking for a new gaming PC rig.
Finally narrowed down to this: CPU: i7-4790k 4x4GHZ (with Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO) [320€] GPU: MSI GeForce GTX970 [365€] MBD: MSI Z97 PC Mate [85€] RAM: 8GB HyperX Savage 2400Mhz CL11 [85€] HDD1: Crucial MX100 256GB SSD [90€] HDD2: Western Digital WD20PURX 2TB [85€] PSU: Corsair CX600 Modular 80+ Gold, 600 Watt [70€] CASE: Fractal Design R4 Black Pearl [80€] DISC: LG BH16N40 Blu-ray Disc Writer [60€]
Total budget: ~1250€
The only part I'm not 100% sold on yet is the RAM. I chose to pick 8GB for now, since I can upgrade this later. Performance wise 2400Mhz CL11 looked better than getting 1600Mhz with CL9. Also picked that module since it's not freakishly high, due to fancy coolers.
Any input and critique is very welcome (I already have the CPU at home, so this part is already set in stone). I will order the rest within the next 2 days.
On April 20 2015 16:13 PandaCore wrote: Over the past months I have been tinkering around here and there, looking for a new gaming PC rig.
Finally narrowed down to this: CPU: i7-4790k 4x4GHZ (with Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO) [320€] GPU: MSI GeForce GTX970 [365€] MBD: MSI Z97 PC Mate [85€] RAM: 8GB HyperX Savage 2400Mhz CL11 [85€] HDD1: Crucial MX100 256GB SSD [90€] HDD2: Western Digital WD20PURX 2TB [85€] PSU: Corsair CX600 Modular 80+ Gold, 600 Watt [70€] CASE: Fractal Design R4 Black Pearl [80€] DISC: LG BH16N40 Blu-ray Disc Writer [60€]
Total budget: ~1250€
The only part I'm not 100% sold on yet is the RAM. I chose to pick 8GB for now, since I can upgrade this later. Performance wise 2400Mhz CL11 looked better than getting 1600Mhz with CL9. Also picked that module since it's not freakishly high, due to fancy coolers.
Any input and critique is very welcome (I already have the CPU at home, so this part is already set in stone). I will order the rest within the next 2 days.
On April 20 2015 16:13 PandaCore wrote: Over the past months I have been tinkering around here and there, looking for a new gaming PC rig.
Finally narrowed down to this: CPU: i7-4790k 4x4GHZ (with Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO) [320€] GPU: MSI GeForce GTX970 [365€] MBD: MSI Z97 PC Mate [85€] RAM: 8GB HyperX Savage 2400Mhz CL11 [85€] HDD1: Crucial MX100 256GB SSD [90€] HDD2: Western Digital WD20PURX 2TB [85€] PSU: Corsair CX600 Modular 80+ Gold, 600 Watt [70€] CASE: Fractal Design R4 Black Pearl [80€] DISC: LG BH16N40 Blu-ray Disc Writer [60€]
Total budget: ~1250€
The only part I'm not 100% sold on yet is the RAM. I chose to pick 8GB for now, since I can upgrade this later. Performance wise 2400Mhz CL11 looked better than getting 1600Mhz with CL9. Also picked that module since it's not freakishly high, due to fancy coolers.
Any input and critique is very welcome (I already have the CPU at home, so this part is already set in stone). I will order the rest within the next 2 days.
better cooler if you really want 4790k over 4690k
Any suggestions? I checked a few suggestions from other sites and all the coolers are in the 90€ range. If I have to put in that much extra, I start considering going for water cooling this time (Corsair Hydro Series H100i for example).
Air cooler that is mentioned quite frequently would be Noctua NH-D14 at around 70€
On April 20 2015 16:13 PandaCore wrote: Over the past months I have been tinkering around here and there, looking for a new gaming PC rig.
Finally narrowed down to this: CPU: i7-4790k 4x4GHZ (with Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO) [320€] GPU: MSI GeForce GTX970 [365€] MBD: MSI Z97 PC Mate [85€] RAM: 8GB HyperX Savage 2400Mhz CL11 [85€] HDD1: Crucial MX100 256GB SSD [90€] HDD2: Western Digital WD20PURX 2TB [85€] PSU: Corsair CX600 Modular 80+ Gold, 600 Watt [70€] CASE: Fractal Design R4 Black Pearl [80€] DISC: LG BH16N40 Blu-ray Disc Writer [60€]
Total budget: ~1250€
The only part I'm not 100% sold on yet is the RAM. I chose to pick 8GB for now, since I can upgrade this later. Performance wise 2400Mhz CL11 looked better than getting 1600Mhz with CL9. Also picked that module since it's not freakishly high, due to fancy coolers.
Any input and critique is very welcome (I already have the CPU at home, so this part is already set in stone). I will order the rest within the next 2 days.
better cooler if you really want 4790k over 4690k
Any suggestions? I checked a few suggestions from other sites and all the coolers are in the 90€ range. If I have to put in that much extra, I start considering going for water cooling this time (Corsair Hydro Series H100i for example).
Air cooler that is mentioned quite frequently would be Noctua NH-D14 at around 70€
if you're going to higher price points, then the closed loop liquid coolers are not necessarily better. They cost more, have actual considerable failure rates and they need to make a lot more noise (talking like 4-5x more noise here, comparing those air cooler fans to stock clc fans at 100%) to get a notable performance lead over air cooler w/ stock fans
there's a lot of misconceptions with liquid coolers just because people naturally think "hey, liquid is better" without having the time to look at actual results, performance and noise levels with the correct setups for both coolers. The endgame for a sustainable and safe 24/7 setup is probably a custom water loop, but that's quite different from a closed loop liquid cooler
if you're going to higher price points, then the closed loop liquid coolers are not necessarily better. They cost more, have actual considerable failure rates and they need to make a lot more noise (talking like 4-5x more noise here, comparing those air cooler fans to stock clc fans at 100%) to get a notable performance lead over air cooler w/ stock fans
there's a lot of misconceptions with liquid coolers just because people naturally think "hey, liquid is better" without having the time to look at actual results, performance and noise levels with the correct setups for both coolers. The endgame for a sustainable and safe 24/7 setup is probably a custom water loop, but that's quite different from a closed loop liquid cooler
Thanks for the suggestion, this cooler does look a lot better. I've also looked around some more. In addition to the Noctua NH-D14, the be quiet! Dark Rock 3 Pro looks quite good as well.
I think I can live with a cooler in the 70€ price range.
if you're going to higher price points, then the closed loop liquid coolers are not necessarily better. They cost more, have actual considerable failure rates and they need to make a lot more noise (talking like 4-5x more noise here, comparing those air cooler fans to stock clc fans at 100%) to get a notable performance lead over air cooler w/ stock fans
there's a lot of misconceptions with liquid coolers just because people naturally think "hey, liquid is better" without having the time to look at actual results, performance and noise levels with the correct setups for both coolers. The endgame for a sustainable and safe 24/7 setup is probably a custom water loop, but that's quite different from a closed loop liquid cooler
Thanks for the suggestion, this cooler does look a lot better. I've also looked around some more. In addition to the Noctua NH-D14, the be quiet! Dark Rock 3 Pro looks quite good as well.
I think I can live with a cooler in the 70€ price range.
The thermalright silver arrow and cryorig r1 are good. d14 is a little more quiet optimized i think (better performance with low fan RPM, worse performance with moderate-high RPM)
there are some more, too. If i was getting a CLC it would be the h110i GT probably
if you're going to higher price points, then the closed loop liquid coolers are not necessarily better. They cost more, have actual considerable failure rates and they need to make a lot more noise (talking like 4-5x more noise here, comparing those air cooler fans to stock clc fans at 100%) to get a notable performance lead over air cooler w/ stock fans
there's a lot of misconceptions with liquid coolers just because people naturally think "hey, liquid is better" without having the time to look at actual results, performance and noise levels with the correct setups for both coolers. The endgame for a sustainable and safe 24/7 setup is probably a custom water loop, but that's quite different from a closed loop liquid cooler
Thanks for the suggestion, this cooler does look a lot better. I've also looked around some more. In addition to the Noctua NH-D14, the be quiet! Dark Rock 3 Pro looks quite good as well.
I think I can live with a cooler in the 70€ price range.
The thermalright silver arrow and cryorig r1 are good. d14 is a little more quiet optimized i think (better performance with low fan RPM, worse performance with moderate-high RPM)
there are some more, too. If i was getting a CLC it would be the h110i GT probably
For CLC's would you go with a pull, push, or push-pull configuration on the fans?
if you're going to higher price points, then the closed loop liquid coolers are not necessarily better. They cost more, have actual considerable failure rates and they need to make a lot more noise (talking like 4-5x more noise here, comparing those air cooler fans to stock clc fans at 100%) to get a notable performance lead over air cooler w/ stock fans
there's a lot of misconceptions with liquid coolers just because people naturally think "hey, liquid is better" without having the time to look at actual results, performance and noise levels with the correct setups for both coolers. The endgame for a sustainable and safe 24/7 setup is probably a custom water loop, but that's quite different from a closed loop liquid cooler
Thanks for the suggestion, this cooler does look a lot better. I've also looked around some more. In addition to the Noctua NH-D14, the be quiet! Dark Rock 3 Pro looks quite good as well.
I think I can live with a cooler in the 70€ price range.
The thermalright silver arrow and cryorig r1 are good. d14 is a little more quiet optimized i think (better performance with low fan RPM, worse performance with moderate-high RPM)
there are some more, too. If i was getting a CLC it would be the h110i GT probably
For CLC's would you go with a pull, push, or push-pull configuration on the fans?
pull (or push/pull if you're running a high wattage load and don't really care for price/performance or noise, and you can fit it in your case fine)
also intake through rad (so air goes from outside of your case into the radiator and then into the case, not the other way around)
A little background about me. I am a doctoral candidate and also a fairly serious gamer looking to build a new computer. My research entails CFD analysis on rocket engines, as well as some pretty intensive renderings and 3D models for showing the complex supersonic flows within the engines. I am recently looking to build a new computer to support that, as well as being a pretty cool gaming rig, however my experience with the industry is pretty minimal. I've built several computers for friends but haven't actually done any research on the components. Anyways, here's the data for the build I'd like to do:
What is your budget? $1500-1700
What is your monitor's native resolution? 1080p
What games do you intend to play on this computer? What settings? Starcraft II / League / Whatever is new
What do you intend to use the computer for besides gaming? CFD Analysis (ANSYS, FLUENT, OVERFLOW,MatLab),
Do you intend to overclock? I can if its best, but I have little experience overclocking.
Do you intend to do SLI / Crossfire? I can if its best.
Do you need an operating system? No.
Do you need a monitor or any other peripherals and is this part of your budget? Yes, but not included in budget.
If you have any requirements or brand preferences, please specify. Would like it to be able to stream fairly effectively.
What country will you be buying your parts in? U.S.
If you have any retailer preferences, please specify. Prefer Amazon if the price is comparable.
if you're going to higher price points, then the closed loop liquid coolers are not necessarily better. They cost more, have actual considerable failure rates and they need to make a lot more noise (talking like 4-5x more noise here, comparing those air cooler fans to stock clc fans at 100%) to get a notable performance lead over air cooler w/ stock fans
there's a lot of misconceptions with liquid coolers just because people naturally think "hey, liquid is better" without having the time to look at actual results, performance and noise levels with the correct setups for both coolers. The endgame for a sustainable and safe 24/7 setup is probably a custom water loop, but that's quite different from a closed loop liquid cooler
Thanks for the suggestion, this cooler does look a lot better. I've also looked around some more. In addition to the Noctua NH-D14, the be quiet! Dark Rock 3 Pro looks quite good as well.
I think I can live with a cooler in the 70€ price range.
The thermalright silver arrow and cryorig r1 are good. d14 is a little more quiet optimized i think (better performance with low fan RPM, worse performance with moderate-high RPM)
there are some more, too. If i was getting a CLC it would be the h110i GT probably
For CLC's would you go with a pull, push, or push-pull configuration on the fans?
pull (or push/pull if you're running a high wattage load and don't really care for price/performance or noise, and you can fit it in your case fine)
also intake through rad (so air goes from outside of your case into the radiator and then into the case, not the other way around)
Thanks. I just bought an EVGA 980 Hybrid card. Its default configuration was in push for whatever reason.
My caseis a bit strange in that it's intake is a 200mm fan. So I'll just configure the rad as an exhaust.
if you're going to higher price points, then the closed loop liquid coolers are not necessarily better. They cost more, have actual considerable failure rates and they need to make a lot more noise (talking like 4-5x more noise here, comparing those air cooler fans to stock clc fans at 100%) to get a notable performance lead over air cooler w/ stock fans
there's a lot of misconceptions with liquid coolers just because people naturally think "hey, liquid is better" without having the time to look at actual results, performance and noise levels with the correct setups for both coolers. The endgame for a sustainable and safe 24/7 setup is probably a custom water loop, but that's quite different from a closed loop liquid cooler
Thanks for the suggestion, this cooler does look a lot better. I've also looked around some more. In addition to the Noctua NH-D14, the be quiet! Dark Rock 3 Pro looks quite good as well.
I think I can live with a cooler in the 70€ price range.
The thermalright silver arrow and cryorig r1 are good. d14 is a little more quiet optimized i think (better performance with low fan RPM, worse performance with moderate-high RPM)
there are some more, too. If i was getting a CLC it would be the h110i GT probably
For CLC's would you go with a pull, push, or push-pull configuration on the fans?
pull (or push/pull if you're running a high wattage load and don't really care for price/performance or noise, and you can fit it in your case fine)
also intake through rad (so air goes from outside of your case into the radiator and then into the case, not the other way around)
Thanks. I just bought an EVGA 980 Hybrid card. Its default configuration was in push for whatever reason.
My caseis a bit strange in that it's intake is a 200mm fan. So I'll just configure the rad as an exhaust.
You can still intake elsewhere, but it's less important for a GPU
All of these 970s on sale makes me think they're clearing inventory for a maxwell refresh whenever amd releases 3 series stuff... does anyone have experience with evga step up?
EPT
