EPT![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/Viadiayl.jpg)
I'm going to try to make a video to show sc2 microstutter via youtube's 30fps.. or maybe some other site @60. If anyone wants to help out, let me know. Just been thinking about it for a few days~
Computer Build, Upgrade & Buying Resource Thread - Page 251
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Cyro
United Kingdom20343 Posts
I'm going to try to make a video to show sc2 microstutter via youtube's 30fps.. or maybe some other site @60. If anyone wants to help out, let me know. Just been thinking about it for a few days~ | ||
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Incognoto
France10239 Posts
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emucxg
Finland4559 Posts
I need 3 of them, 2 front, 1 back | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
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felisconcolori
United States6168 Posts
(My old computer was a space heater - Phenom x4 at 40C idling and Radeon 5770 about 50C. It has one case exhaust fan and a large hole in the side of the case.) | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20343 Posts
On March 20 2014 20:42 emucxg wrote: which 140mm fan would you guys recommend for H440 case? I need 3 of them, 2 front, 1 back Wouldn't you put run three 120's front, three 120's top? If you use 140mm's at front, you can only fit two - and two 140's are significantly worse than three 120's (all IIRC) If i had that case, i would definitely do that, maybe with some modding to remove the airflow restrictions. As it stands i'm pretty sure on a nice white air540 now because it seems to scale better when you just want lots of cool air and i don't care for the "quiet" focus on h440 - making a case with like 7-8 fan slots and cutting off a lot of the airflow with small intake vents in front of the fans seems counterproductive to me | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
140^2 * 2 = 39,200 120^2 * 3 = 43,200 so about the same. But considering frame and hub sizes, it should be closer than that or even in the favor of 140s, except that maybe 140 mm models might have a little more trouble with the intake restriction. For what it's worth, Corsair's justification for not releasing a 120 x 3 AIO is that (1) few cases fit it but also (2) 140 x 2 performs better and they already offer that. The bigger issue is that unless you're dealing with faulty fans or annoyed by a particular sound characters, the stock fans pretty much can't be that much worse than an alternative, and case fans past a certain point don't make too much difference in cooling anyway. That is, unless you're replacing the fans so you can get more airflow at the expense of more noise. Stock fan config isn't that loud, but it's already not quiet compared to many cases. In other words, without knowing the real setup that is going to be used or the motivation behind getting the fans, it is hard to make a reasonable recommendation. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20343 Posts
Not that it >really< matters, but from a min/maxing point of view | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
There are a whole bunch of fast 120mm and some pretty ridiculous ones from Delta that will not be that expensive and blow your socks off (but you need to find a shop selling obscure stuff like Delta). It's just not realistic to use those really. Even if you run them slow, they can never be silent. Something like the stuff from Noctua or Phanteks isn't using ball bearing and that's theoretically bad, but this is actually exactly what the typical person needs because it can be totally silent at low speeds. The best you can do with a normal price if you want fast 140mm might be buying that orange fan from Thermalright and cutting it into a rectangular shape (its round frame is 150mm wide or so). On that note, if you want slow speed, the normal Thermalright TY-140 is also pretty great and cheap if you cut its sides off. I just remembered that a lot of fans don't run well in a horizontal position at the top or bottom of the case. The bearing will break fast. That's a good plus for ball bearings as those don't have that problem at all. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
Why even stop at FM121 though, anyway? Can't you find those Nidec, Sanyo Denki, Delta, etc. 3000+ rpm fans at 120 x 120 x 25? 5400 rpm, here we come? But if you want to compare with FM121, I'd say likely the Yate Loon D14BH-12 should pass it or at least be close and without all that huge of a price. The fan specs of most large OEMs can be trusted, so that's 2800 rpm, 140 cfm, 48.5 dB. For reference, D12BH-12 is 2300 rpm, 89 cfm, 41 dB. You know, that's looking like (adjusted for total noise) the 3x 120 mm should be slightly better than 2x 140 mm in free air at least. D14BH-12 is what's in a bunch of power supplies, even stuff like Corsair AX1200i. It's in a large percentage of large-capacity power supplies where the brand cares about reliability and cost over noise and noise profile (not that the latter are poor, just average). I'm not exactly interested in leafblowers so I may be missing plenty of stuff. | ||
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iTzSnypah
United States1738 Posts
On March 20 2014 09:23 Cyro wrote: I'm going to try to make a video to show sc2 microstutter via youtube's 30fps.. or maybe some other site @60. If anyone wants to help out, let me know. Just been thinking about it for a few days~ Did YT axe it's play speed thingy? A while back AT (or maybe it was Tom's) uploaded some video of a game (I think of their SLI vs CF articles) on YT at half speed and you just watched it at 2x playback speed to get 60fps. | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
http://db.sanyodenki.co.jp/product_db/cooling/dcfan/group_pdf/1358215684.pdf It's 140mm wide and 51mm thick. The fastest model runs at 4200 RPM. It pulls 32W. The frame is out of aluminium to not explode or something. The price seems to be about $100. I wonder if it can hover.  | ||
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Duvon
Sweden2360 Posts
Budget 450$ Parts origin: Sweden/nordics Current build: OS: Win8 Processor: Intel core 2 quad Q8200 2,33 GHz Memory: Corsair Value S PC5300 4 GB (2x 2GB). Motherboard: MSI P45 NEO-F GFX card: ATI Radeon HD 4800 HDD: 232 GB Seagate (SATA-II) 3,5" 7200 rpm Case: Cooler Master Centurion 534 Supply: 550W Monitor: Syncmaster 1680x1050 60Hz Generic fans. Goal: A working computer for a bit of random gaming. Graphical priority is Shadow quality>FPS drop on particle>Abundant textures>the rest. In the future I will probably also do a bit of music editing. Otherwise only workstation and watching streams. (+ Show Spoiler + btw, won't 30 FPS be max with a 60 Hz screen? Or is it simply because you want the frame "queue" to be as up to date as possible with what goes out to the screen? I'm not looking to upgrade my monitor soon. As you can understand, a requirement is that the replacements could work with this setup as well a newer, hence I'm limited to single PCI-slot GFX cards. ? I've been looking around at GFX cards a little, and the Radeon R9 270 cards seem to fit, however reading back a couple of pages apparently ATI might be overpriced at the moment? They are at about 230$, while the GTX 760 goes for over 300$ and the GTX 660 for approximately 220$. Regarding HDD, I'm in an internal debate whether I should go for a SSD while I'm at it, or go for a bigger disk now and get a SSD later. My biggest pet peevee with the current disk is long loading times, but that might be something else, like choking when loading stuff to memory?. The WD Caviar Blue 500GB is at around 110$, a 128GB SSD at 150$+. Finally, I have no idea about fans. I think my current case is quite bad, idle T for gfx drops about 5 C with the side open and max gfx T during D3 is also lower, but it might be the fans? What I'm looking for Something like a simple yes/no-this-instead on gfx card, advice on HD and fans. | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
I don't know about that overpriced issue with regards to AMD. It might have been only in the US, not in Europe, but I don't really know. If you buy an SSD, you can buy a large and quiet 5400 RPM HDD like WD Green (or WD Red if cheap). The very large models are actually pretty fast. If you install some games on the HDD while having Windows and programs on an SSD, it will also feel faster than you'd expect with regards to loading times because the game is the only thing that accesses the HDD. I also think being diligent about doing backups is a lot more comfortable with an SSD. A full backup with the software from Acronis completes in about 10 minutes for me, an incremental backup in four minutes. You can't really feel it working in the background so you can let it run on a schedule without issue. You would then just take care to have all your important stuff on the SSD, only put games and movies and random stuff on the HDD, and it'll eventually save your butt at some point. [EDIT: I was wrong. A full backup takes about 30 minutes. The part about incremental backups was correct, it really is just one to four minutes.] About the fans, what you could probably try is to put a rather powerful fan in the front. I've seen the new CM Jetflo recommended. It runs at up to 2000 RPM so you will need to be able to control its speed or it will be annoying. You have to find out yourself how you do that with your board. There's a program called SpeedFan that will probably help but it's annoying to learn how to use it. I bet it's possible to remove that one drive cage at the bottom front. That would make the front fan's job easier. Another thing is, there's frames for a 120mm fan that will take up three 5.25" drive slots. You could use that to get another fan in the front. It would change your case into something pretty similar to a modern case. You might also be able to find mesh slot covers for the 5.25" drive slots. You could then tie up a fan inside the drive cage behind the mesh slot covers with cable ties or something. That would be somewhat ugly but cheap. [EDIT: I have problems finding pictures of the case, but in some of them it seems as if the top half in the front has the same sort of mesh as the bottom half? You might be able to tie a fan inside the 5.25" cage without doing anything to the slot covers and it will still get air from the outside?] You might want to look up the exact name of your PSU and look for a review that judges the parts used on the inside. Don't talk about prices in US dollars because in the US they don't have taxes like over here so the numbers feel off. That WD Blue 500GB is for example less than $60 in the US. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
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Cyro
United Kingdom20343 Posts
Why even stop at FM121 though, anyway? Can't you find those Nidec, Sanyo Denki, Delta, etc. 3000+ rpm fans at 120 x 120 x 25? 5400 rpm, here we come? Because i'm talking about realistic fans for a 24/7 setup; fm121 can sit @800rpm and be flicked to 2k when you're gaming with headphones on. It's also a pretty great rad fan, which is worth mentioning when quality fans are often £6-10 a pop (~$10-16) Power draw for stock i5 + 760 ~= like 225w entire system It's easy to double or triple that with a more aggressive setup, especially with overvolting btw, won't 30 FPS be max with a 60 Hz screen? Or is it simply because you want the frame "queue" to be as up to date as possible with what goes out to the screen? A 60hz screen will show 60 complete images per second. If you're not v-synced, at 120fps perfectly even for example, you'd see half of every frame. At 30fps, you'd see every frame twice | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20343 Posts
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
 What was interesting is, they mentioned most PCs today (80%?) have GPUs that can run it (even Intel's integrated stuff, though perhaps only Haswell?), but then they said 50% of gamers are projected to be able to use it when it comes out. Out of this one can deduce that it will be Windows 8 and won't be released for Windows 7, everyone will be forced to move on. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20343 Posts
They explicitly said that nvidia was delivering compatibility to ~40% of the steam userbase (everyone with gpu's fermi onwards) FAQ Q: Should I wait to buy a new PC or GPU? A: No – if you buy a PC with supported graphics hardware (over 80% of gamer PCs currently being sold), you’ll be able to enjoy all the power of DirectX 12 games as soon as they are available. There's no reason for it to be w8 only and it would weaken the API a lot if it was | ||
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