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you probably should post this in the computer resource thread as this one is for budget PC building. also, belial is kinda banned =/
4gig ram
im not 100%sure but why do you want the super overclocked card. is it because of the brand's warranty, or because its overclocked? you can overclock it yourself easily later. the msi twin frozr one is 279 at pc case gear, you might be able to find it cheaper elsewhere too
zalman coolers are okay, but for 70 bucks (also including the money you saved on your gpu) you could get a thermalright silver arrow or a noctua nh-d14 or the like, which are better coolers.
why a blu-ray drive?
antec truepower 750w is cheaper and better than the tx750, id go to with that and yeah 750 is enough
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The warrenty plays a good factor into it as well as being only $10 more than the base one from gigabyte, tho ill admit is $30 more then the msi it was actually between these two brands.
Def going to look into those coolers, wasnt really feeling great with the zalman
Blu ray as it will be the only device i would own for playback if i moved out of the place i am renting we got a ps3 in the house but its roommate, figure for $40-$50(it was actually $75 not $95 recently too) is worth it incase there is ever a time ill need it, but i am still not sure either really, since $50 less could then be spent elsewhere
Antec, will have a quick look into it Thanks
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Generally I've seen Superclocked Editions, or "SE" cards perform worse than non-SE cards. Ie, the gtx 460 SE is worse than the older, normal 460. Not sure why that's the case, just is.
Most of the motherboards in the above links don't seem worth the price. If you are just getting 4+1 with no heatsink on the VRM, 4 pin CPU port, and 3 legged mosfets with no Low RDS on, I wouldn't pay more than $45 for it and I would only recommend it if budget is more important than overclocking. You really get into trouble when you start messing with the 125w processors like hexacores, or just Phenoms in general, so since this is a thread about the much cooler running Athlon, VRM isn't as big an issue, but still, if you were to unlock + overclock, you'd want something a little better. In short, I don't like the motherboards chosen because their VRM didn't justify the price. Either find a better VRM for the same price, or get a cheaper board and live with the risk with some money saved over (or just don't overclock).
And skyR that isn't really a good PSU, the 12v rail is weaker than an Antec 380D and it's less efficient.
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SE does not stand for superclocked, it stands for Slow Edition. Notice how they're cheaper than their non-SE counterparts?
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^ I'm pretty sure it means Superclocked Edition?
edit: quick search, maybe means second edition. Doesn't seem like many know the answer.
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I think my confusion came from seeing them priced higher and never really addressed specifically, as well as seeing many other reviews/people say don't get them. Thanks for clearing that up. On Newegg there are so many 460/460SEs that they never stuck out as cheaper.
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On April 08 2011 00:14 Belial88 wrote: And skyR that isn't really a good PSU, the 12v rail is weaker than an Antec 380D and it's less efficient.
The CX430 has 28a on its 12v rail and is 80+ Certified. The 380D also has 28a on its 12v rail and is 80+ Bronze. 80+ difference is not a big deal since its only going to be a ~1% difference.
You do not add 12v1 and 12v2 together to get the total amperage. You look at the total wattage of the 12v rail(s) and then divide it by 12 to get the amperage.
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+12V1@17A, +12V2@15A
17+16=33x12= 396
+12V@28A
12 x 28 = 336
Correct?
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I just said you don't add multiple rails together.
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My computer is still running great, my gf got me a ducky 1087 tenkeyless cherry brown, and I'm using a steelseries kinzu optical (it doesnt glide, it has the worst mouse feet, but meh, i like it, and it was a good bday present from a friend for $20).
Anyways. Now that time has passed, I wonder if this guide has been used by anyone.
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siiiiick i was thinking of getting a mechanical keyboard but theres too many fucking switch colours :C i dont know which one to get
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Hmmm this guide, I don't get it. Max settings with that CPU? No way. 4850 enough for max settings? Maybe if you don't mind 5 FPS. I have a 4850 and a slightly better CPU and Medium is the highest I can comfortably play
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^ Depends on your resolution, which I addressed in the accessories section. If you are on a simple 1200, you can be okay. I also said arguably. Could've been clearer on that. Benchmark testing has shown that the 4850 is just fine on lower resolutions to play on maxed with SC2 (no AA), so you may be having computer issues if you can only play on medium, as it's a fairly strong (budget) card.
I describe the PC I have and I get maxed settings easily, with about average 120 fps or so (my gpu is also HEAVILY underclocked due to some hardware problems, too lazy to return yet and dont want no gpu for a month during swap process).
edit: actually if you are on medium at most I'm quite sure something else is going on if you are on a resolution around 1200.
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CPU has nothing to do with the resolution though, and I thought 1080p was the standard that's used as a baseline. Of course you only need a 5570 for 1024x768 but either way that CPU still can't play on ultra
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1080p isn't exactly resolution, it deals with the monitor. I'm talking about your resolution settings, although if you are using a 1080p monitor, you are probably using a really high resolution. Try lowering your resolution, it'll help your fps a ton. If you are on a 4850, you should'nt be using 1080p - or rather, you shouldn't be using 1080p at it's limits.
You say CPU over and over, but you don't say what CPU you are talking about. A CPU can be anything, as in any model. Saying 'car' doesn't specify a mustang over a geo, in the same sense.
I'm running an athlon II x3 and 460 that's severely underclocked (so probably more similar to a 4850? not sure) and I do ultra with over 100 average fps.
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On January 02 2012 00:29 Belial88 wrote: 1080p isn't exactly resolution, it deals with the monitor. I'm talking about your resolution settings, although if you are using a 1080p monitor, you are probably using a really high resolution. Try lowering your resolution, it'll help your fps a ton. If you are on a 4850, you should'nt be using 1080p - or rather, you shouldn't be using 1080p at it's limits.
Running a monitor at a resolution lower than its native resolution will either give you a very small viewport with black borders or (more commonly) blurry graphics from upscaling of the low resolution content to the native resolution. Either way, it's not a good idea.
1080p or 1920x1080 is the standard resolution for pretty much every budget / mainstream monitor these days and builds ought to be aimed at outputting graphics at that resolution.
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Running a monitor at a resolution lower than its native resolution will either give you a very small viewport with black borders or (more commonly) blurry graphics from upscaling of the low resolution content to the native resolution. Either way, it's not a good idea.
Native resolution is completely different from display resolution. I think you guys are confused on that. For example, my monitor is 720p, but the native resolution is said to be 1366 x 768, but that is for TV, and so the PC resolution is 1260x768.
1080p or 1920x1080 is the standard resolution for pretty much every budget / mainstream monitor these days and builds ought to be aimed at outputting graphics at that resolution.
That's pretty high resolution, and I discuss in the guide lower than 1600 is what I'm basing it off of. I don't know what you consider budget, and I took the premise that you were using a monitor you had laying around.
There are plenty of budget monitors much lower than 1920 as their native resolution, that are still current and being sold. By budget I really mean "what's the lowest you can get away with". All of the 'benchmarks' with the recommendations are also sort of 'minimum's, meaning you can barely get away with ultra with this card, barely get away with medium with this card, et cetera.
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What about 32 bit vs 64 bit?
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