EPTEdit: Shikyo I just want to protect the investment of a 550$ processor and safely OC to 4.4-4.5 and possibly higher, I don't know how safe using the 30$ Heatsink/fan will actually perform thats why I'm asking for advice, but I will have a few weeks to test out the limitations of the gaia.
Computer Build Resource Thread - Page 752
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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. | ||
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imJukin
United States47 Posts
Edit: Shikyo I just want to protect the investment of a 550$ processor and safely OC to 4.4-4.5 and possibly higher, I don't know how safe using the 30$ Heatsink/fan will actually perform thats why I'm asking for advice, but I will have a few weeks to test out the limitations of the gaia. | ||
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Shikyo
Finland33997 Posts
H100 is approximately 4 times louder than NH-D14 and performs about half a degree better. | ||
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olabaz
United States298 Posts
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imJukin
United States47 Posts
On November 22 2011 09:38 Shikyo wrote: It's safe if it won't overheat and you stay in safe voltage limits. So when you can't do that anymore without it overheating, it's at the limit. The limit shouldn't be 4.5ghz though. H100 is approximately 4 times louder than NH-D14 and performs about half a degree better. Wow thanks for that, I didn't know liquid cooling was so much louder than air cooling. That sealed the deal right there. I currently have a very noisy computer, and am looking forward to the quiet of a new machine. From most reports that I've seen the 3930k usually tops out at 4.8ghz on average, with a pristine chip being able to hit 5.1 or 5.2 ghz, so I'll push its limits. Thanks i'll definitely get the Noctua | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
On November 22 2011 09:46 olabaz wrote: Just a general question about sales. Based on previous years do black friday/cyber monday deals apply to ALL the items or is it a select few? It's only select items. | ||
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Madoga
Netherlands471 Posts
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Shikyo
Finland33997 Posts
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iKill[ShocK]
Vietnam3530 Posts
On November 22 2011 08:02 Madoga wrote: Whats the brand and the model number of your psu? 28a on the 12v rail is more like a 350-400W psu. If its a decent unit (which I highly doubt) It could probably run the card. So either open up your computer case and take a picture or give us the model numbe r+ brand. here's the link to the manufacturer's website with details about the psu (its the same as the back of the psu) http://epowertec.com/power_cheetah.html scroll down to where it says Technical Specification EP-520XP-C1B and thats my power supply | ||
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Shikyo
Finland33997 Posts
If you decide to upgrade, I'd suggest super flower amazon 450-550 or golden green 400-550w | ||
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Wildcat322
United States3 Posts
Sager NP8130 / Clevo P151HM1 - No Discount (My order is not over $1500) - 15.6" FHD 16 "Matte Type" Super Clear Ultra Bright LED Anti-Glare Screen w/ 95% NTSC Color Gamut (1920x1080) (SKU - S1R303) - NO Professional Monitor Color Calibration - Standard Dead Pixel Policy - 2nd Generation Intel® Core™ i7-2670QM, 2.2-3.1GHz, (32nm, 6MB L3 cache) (SKU - S2N224) - -Stock OEM Thermal Compound - nVidia GeForce GTX 560M 1,536MB PCI-Express GDDR5 DX11 (SKU - S3R452) - No Video Adapter - 8GB - DDR3 1600MHz Dual Channel Memory (2 SODIMMS) (SKU - S4R371) - Sager Branding - Standard Finish - 640GB 5400RPM 8MB Cache Buffer (Serial-ATA II 3GB/s) - Default (SKU - X5R252) - Combo Dual Layer SuperMulti DVDRW/CDRW Drive w/ Software (When selecting a Hard Drive in the Optical Bay, No Optical Drive is Included) (SKU - S7R455) - No Extra Optical Bay Hard Drive Caddy - No Back Up Hard Drive - NO External USB Optical Drive - No Floppy Drive - Internal 7-in-1 Card Reader (MS/MS Pro/MS Duo/MS Pro Duo/SD/Mini-SD/MMC/RS) - No Back Up Software - None Standard-- - Built-in 802.11 Wireless B/G/N - Stock Wireless Card + Bluetooth (SKU - S8R110) - No Network Accessory - Built in 2.0 Megapixel Camera - No TV Tuner - Sound Blaster Compatible 3D Audio - Included - Basic Black Business Case - Included - Smart Li-ion Battery (8-Cell) - No Car Adapter - None Standard* - No Dock/Hub/Adapter - Integrated Fingerprint Reader - None - No External Keyboard or Mouse - No Notebook Cooler - No Thanks, Please do not Overclock my system (Overclocking will add 3-6 business days to build time) - No Operating System Redline Boost - ~Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit Installed (64&32-Bit CD Included) w/ Drivers & Utilities CD's + Microsoft Office Starter 2010 - Included with OS Purchase - No Office Software - No Software Bundle - LIFETIME Ltd Labor* 1 Year Parts Warranty Lifetime -24/7 DOMESTIC Based- Toll Free Telephone Tech Support (Labor Warranty through Xotic PC) Includes FREE Shipping Both Ways for Warranty Repairs (SKU - X9R009) - No Outside of US Shipping Coverage - Standard Production Time - No Xotic PC Gear Final Price is $1,264.00 from xoticpc.com. Thanks again! | ||
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Shikyo
Finland33997 Posts
Otherwise that config seems all right although there will probably be better sales. Worth considering: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834230099 | ||
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Madoga
Netherlands471 Posts
On November 22 2011 09:58 iKill[ShocK] wrote: here's the link to the manufacturer's website with details about the psu (its the same as the back of the psu) http://epowertec.com/power_cheetah.html scroll down to where it says Technical Specification EP-520XP-C1B and thats my power supply epower is a brand under topower(which isn't/wasn't that great, but not too bad either) I believe. They say it weights 6 lbs which is like 2.3 kg(???). Which means it probably isn't total crap. I believe topower stopped making their own units, so its probably a pretty old model (or made by someone else(andyson)). It allso has 2 floppy connectors, and old 3 fan design which leads me to conclude its proably an old topower model, which should be able to deliver its rated wattage. This psu is before my time though. Couldnt really find anything about the unit besides this: http://www.cluboverclocker.com/reviews/power/epowertec/cheetah450/page2.htm Which to be fair is a total shit review. But as you can see its from 2004, so its a very old psu. I would trust this unit with a 6850, but without knowing more I wouldnt run a 6950 on it (just to be on the safe side). If you want to know more you might want to ask at the jonnyguru forums where all the oldtimer psu guru's hang out. Yep it's max wattage(so who was correct?). I wouldn't try using anything better than 6850 with that. Good thing is that 6850 should be enough for most people. What? its rated at continuous wattage(atleast it doesn't say anything about peak wattage). It simply has very powerfull minor rails, which was fairly normal back than. | ||
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TuckFexas
United States154 Posts
(http://www.malibal.com/boutique/pc/configurePrd.asp?idproduct=279) | ||
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AnDa1120
Canada472 Posts
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Isaac
United States810 Posts
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Womwomwom
5930 Posts
To know which motherboard is good, you pretty much have to read, read, read. Forums, reviews, everything. You don't know each motherboard's personal quirks unless you read long term user experiences. For instance, the Gigabyte X58A-UD3R has poorly implemented power management features so some boards "whine" while the features are switched on; Asus Sandy Bridge motherboards seem to have problems sleeping properly. Generally speaking though, the gold standard of stock reliability is Intel. Good low end motherboards come from MSI or Asrock. Good mid to high end motherboards come from Asus. Gigabyte for a while now seems to have strange problems with power management/regulation and they're the only people who haven't joined the modern age of uEFI so I wouldn't bother with them. Biostar and ECS are your ultra low end motherboard companies and I really wouldn't choose them unless you absolutely cannot save $10 for an Asrock motherboard. I wouldn't trust any motherboards designed by overworked Taiwanese workers who do their work on 17" LCD Samsung monitors in some of the worst ergonomic conditions ever. Granted the other motherboard companies probably work in similar conditions but I haven't seen a ECS motherboard that wasn't complete shit. | ||
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Rachnar
France1526 Posts
On November 22 2011 14:17 Kilos wrote: AMD Phenom II X4 980 Black Edition for streaming. Upgrading from a AMD Phenom 9500. a 980 is just an OC'd 955, might as will get an x6 1090t if your mobo supports it as they are the same price | ||
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Fruscainte
4596 Posts
I know I know, I am the biggest professor of "Just buy a $600 PC and a $300 laptop" of all time. However, my situation really does not allow it. I may be moving up state, I may be moving across the country -- I simply don't know and I don't want to lug around my shitty desktop PC that I may or may not even have the time to use. So I was thinking just burn a grand or so on a decent gaming laptop to play some SC2 on and shit (of course I'll get a real mouse to play and shit  ), but yeah.So generally my rule of thumb is if you aren't spending $1300 on it, it probably sucks. Then I found this website: http://www.digitalstormonline.com/gaminglaptops.asp For $1,083 I can get: Intel Core i7 2670QM CPU 8GB 1333MHz Memory 500GB Hard Drive Storage DVD-RW/CD-RW Multi-Drive NVIDIA GT 555M 2GB GPU 1920x1080 Resolution LCD Windows 7 Home Premium Oh, and it's 15.6", so it's nothing that huge. Now I know the RAM is major overkill, whatever. However, I know jack shit about Nvidia cards. I mean, abso-fucking-lutely nothing. With some quick google searches, it seemed to be a pretty mid-range card. Which I'm quite used to, running a 4850HD myself since I'm poor and shit. Nonetheless, would I get -roughly- the same performance out of this card? I don't expect to run BF3 maxed or anything of that nature, however, if I could run High SC2 at that resolution I would be one happy sailor. The other prices of laptops are for an i5 for $90 less, and for marginally better CPU's for like $200 more. So I found this to be a good middle ground at just under $1,100. Assuming the Video Card is good though, since that is the Achilles Heel of EVERY gaming laptop. Oh, and I also found: http://computers.toptenreviews.com/gaming-laptops/alienware-corporation/alienware-m14x-details.html Fucking Alienware, I hate it. However, the specs do look pretty decent for just about the same price as the previous laptop. PROCESSOR Intel® Core™ i7 2760QM 2.4GHz (3.5GHz w/Turbo Boost, 6MB Cache) OPERATING SYSTEM Genuine Windows® 7 Home Premium, 64bit, English VIDEO CARD 3.0GB DDR3 NVIDIA® GeForce® GT 555M using NVIDIA Optimus™ technology HARD DRIVE 750GB 7200RPM SATA 3Gb/s LCD PANEL 14.0" High Def+ (900p/1600x900) with WLED backlight INTERNAL OPTICAL DRIVE 8x SuperMulti DVD±R/RW Slot Load Optical Drive SOUND OPTIONS Internal High-Definition 5.1 Surround Sound Audio I play on 1024x768, so anything above that is perfectly fine. I don't care if it's 1600x900, tbh. The video card is TECHNICALLY better, I think? And it's a smaller screen, making it easier to carry around and shit. I mean, this IS a college computer first and foremost, and video games in my off time. With a smaller resolution it would also be easier to run higher end games on higher settings, which is also a plus, no? | ||
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Avarice
United States36 Posts
Current setup: cpu: Intel® Core™2 Duo CPU E6750 @ 2.66GHz ram: 2g of whatever(I don't know/can't find the specifics) mainboard: Gigabyte P35-DS3L gpu: GeForce 8800 GTS 640mb hd: Barracuda 7200.10 SATA 3.0Gb/s 500-GB monitor:DELL E228WFP, 22.0" case: Antec 300 I've had this rig since middlish 2007, and I've been very happy with it. It even runs Skyrim on lowish settings quite well. Nothing about this pc has ever bothered me too much, but it's just getting too dated. A lot of new games have my specs as their minimum, lol. What is your budget? ~$1000 If there's any place I'd splurge a little, it'd be cpu. Video cards are very modular, and upgrading the cpu seems to always necessitate a new mainboard, which drives me to want a new case, which- Hell I'm already replacing most of my stuff now. What is your resolution? 1680 x 1050 is what I use now, though I really don't know what the standard is these days with 1080p monitors and all that. What are you using it for? Pretty much exclusively gaming. I want my pc to run games well for as long as possible. This prioritizes stability, temperature, and uniformity as far as performance limits. (though as I mentioned before if the cpu is a little bit above the rest that's fine) What is your upgrade cycle? Lonnng. Over 4 years for this last one, and only upgrading now because I'll be under minimum specs for new games. Obviously there are no crystal balls to consult regarding future game reqs, but if there's some reason that I should be waiting for a new tier of cpu or something that's coming in the next year, let me know. When do you plan on building it? I plan to take advantage of the coming weekend's deals, assuming it is an otherwise opportune time to overhaul my system. This rig does run current games (witcher 2, skyrim, deus ex) without a ton of difficulty on low settings, so I can -probably- wait a few more months if something big is around the bend. If not, now is probably the best time. Do you plan on overclocking? Probably not. My hardware knowhow is very low, (in absolute terms) and I don't like the idea of compromising long-run stability unless I am very aware of the benefits. Do you need an Operating System? No. Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire? No. I have a shitty little laptop for 'other monitor' purposes so I only need one card. Where are you buying your parts from? I need at least one part from Newegg but otherwise any online reputable source is fine. I'm in the U.S. Other notes: *My case and my monitor are both damaged, and will need to be replaced. I have moved several times in the last 4 years, including 1500 mile car trips, which took their toll. The same case or an iterative step-up from it would probably be fine, but I really don't know much of what's happened in that area since 2007. *I don't need any other peripherals, though my speakers (Logitech X-230) are probably pretty 'old' at this point so maybe they could use an upgrade. *I don't think I will need a SSD. Non-performance-related loading times are not really a giant concern for me, and their downsides of long term instability and cost seem too high atm. I'm open to arguments against that position. Thanks for your time. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
On November 23 2011 05:27 Avarice wrote:+ Show Spoiler + This is a great thread. I've tried to glean as much as I can from the OP and since page 740, though I just feel like I need to ask the questions for myself so here goes. Current setup: cpu: Intel® Core™2 Duo CPU E6750 @ 2.66GHz ram: 2g of whatever(I don't know/can't find the specifics) mainboard: Gigabyte P35-DS3L gpu: GeForce 8800 GTS 640mb hd: Barracuda 7200.10 SATA 3.0Gb/s 500-GB monitor:DELL E228WFP, 22.0" case: Antec 300 I've had this rig since middlish 2007, and I've been very happy with it. It even runs Skyrim on lowish settings quite well. Nothing about this pc has ever bothered me too much, but it's just getting too dated. A lot of new games have my specs as their minimum, lol. What is your budget? ~$1000 If there's any place I'd splurge a little, it'd be cpu. Video cards are very modular, and upgrading the cpu seems to always necessitate a new mainboard, which drives me to want a new case, which- Hell I'm already replacing most of my stuff now. What is your resolution? 1680 x 1050 is what I use now, though I really don't know what the standard is these days with 1080p monitors and all that. What are you using it for? Pretty much exclusively gaming. I want my pc to run games well for as long as possible. This prioritizes stability, temperature, and uniformity as far as performance limits. (though as I mentioned before if the cpu is a little bit above the rest that's fine) What is your upgrade cycle? Lonnng. Over 4 years for this last one, and only upgrading now because I'll be under minimum specs for new games. Obviously there are no crystal balls to consult regarding future game reqs, but if there's some reason that I should be waiting for a new tier of cpu or something that's coming in the next year, let me know. When do you plan on building it? I plan to take advantage of the coming weekend's deals, assuming it is an otherwise opportune time to overhaul my system. This rig does run current games (witcher 2, skyrim, deus ex) without a ton of difficulty on low settings, so I can -probably- wait a few more months if something big is around the bend. If not, now is probably the best time. Do you plan on overclocking? Probably not. My hardware knowhow is very low, (in absolute terms) and I don't like the idea of compromising long-run stability unless I am very aware of the benefits. Do you need an Operating System? No. Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire? No. I have a shitty little laptop for 'other monitor' purposes so I only need one card. Where are you buying your parts from? I need at least one part from Newegg but otherwise any online reputable source is fine. I'm in the U.S. Other notes: *My case and my monitor are both damaged, and will need to be replaced. I have moved several times in the last 4 years, including 1500 mile car trips, which took their toll. The same case or an iterative step-up from it would probably be fine, but I really don't know much of what's happened in that area since 2007. *I don't need any other peripherals, though my speakers (Logitech X-230) are probably pretty 'old' at this point so maybe they could use an upgrade. *I don't think I will need a SSD. Non-performance-related loading times are not really a giant concern for me, and their downsides of long term instability and cost seem too high atm. I'm open to arguments against that position. Thanks for your time. Ivybridge (Intel's 3rd Generation Core processors) are scheduled for March / April of next year. AMD's Radeon HD7000 series and Nvidia's GTX 600 series will also be coming in the first half of next year as well and the expectations for these are very high since we're going from 40nm to 28nm. It's up to you whether you want to wait or not. If you're looking to purchase now, you're looking at something along these lines - core i5 2500 or 2400 or any other non-K suffix core i5 - some h61 or h67 motherboard - GTX 560 Ti or Radeon HD6950 1GB or maybe even a Radeon HD6970 or GTX 570 if you have plans to upgrade monitor - 2x4gb 1333MHz cas9 DDR3 This would be very similar in terms of pricing to what you picked up four years ago. And before you ask. No, an i7 is not worth it for gaming since hardly any games even make use of four threads, yet alone eight and this is unlikely to change anytime soon. So don't even think about splurging for it. You probably remember a similar situation four years ago when you decided on your E6750 instead of a Q6600. Regardless of when you are purchasing your new configuration, you should be on the look out for a good case and maybe a new monitor during the Black Friday and Cyber Monday sales. CrossfireX and SLI isn't there for more monitor support, it's there to improve performance by up to 100%. This is sort of necessary if you are interested in playing every game on max settings or doing Eyefinity / Surround (gaming across multiple monitors). | ||
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