EPTCan someone explain to me though (I'm a noob) why the Gigabyte motherboard is better than the MSI one? They look pretty much the same to me. Am I missing something?
Computer Build Resource Thread - Page 211
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Leeto
United States1320 Posts
Can someone explain to me though (I'm a noob) why the Gigabyte motherboard is better than the MSI one? They look pretty much the same to me. Am I missing something? | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
On April 11 2011 23:23 Leeto wrote: Thanks a lot guys =). Can someone explain to me though (I'm a noob) why the Gigabyte motherboard is better than the MSI one? They look pretty much the same to me. Am I missing something? Primary difference is the MSI G45 provides SLI capabilities, an UEFI interface, and a USB3.0 header while the Gigabyte UD3 provides a standard BIOS, dual BIOS chips, and one additional power phase (not to mention its $5 cheaper). The Asrock is $10 cheaper and provides an UEFI interface (if you're into that sort of thing), on-board debug LED, on-board power/reset buttons, and a USB3.0 header. There really is little point of buying the MSI G45 over the Asrock or Gigabyte. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
On April 11 2011 18:19 ForgottenOne wrote: and I don't like the voltage. I rather have one with 1.5... Should I buy this memory? Should I order other RAM and wait till Wednesday to be delivered? Does this small difference in voltage matters? Is this a good RAM KIT? If you're not comfortable with 1.65v than don't buy it and wait for 1.5v. 1.65v is fine but Intel recommends 1.5v afaik. | ||
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Mr.Loki
Germany136 Posts
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ChOoA
United States8 Posts
On April 11 2011 09:02 ChOoA wrote: Hey guys. Im building my first computer and I had a few builds alrdy in mind. I was just wondering what other builds u guys can come up with. I dont no much about building computers. I dont need an operating system cuz i alrdy have a windows 7 64bit. I plan on buying my parts from newegg or anywhere cheaper thats safe. Budget: $800-850 maybe a little higher. Resolution: i have a hdtv in mind as a monitor with a resolution of 1920 x 1080 but any other monitor suggestions would b great. What am i using it for: I wanna play sc2 at high/medium settings with good fps and able to stream sc2 with ease. Upgrade Cycle: around 3-4 years When do u plan on building it: Asap Overlocking: Probably not. Thanks ahead of time~ I was wondering if this computer would be good enough for what i want. Am i missing anything or if anything is uncompatible can you guys please tell me? If not imma just go with Skyr's build and purchase it. Thanks ahead of time. p.s ~ like i said im not good with comps and this is my first build. case - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147153 hdd - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185 gpu - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130566 ram - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277 mobo - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128476 cpu - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115073 fan - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065 psu - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371021 | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
Yes it is good but my configuration is better optimized for your needs and even includes an SSD. P67 board is not necessary for a core i5 2500 as it has a locked multiplier which means you will be unable to overclock very far. If you want to overclock, you would need to get a core i5 2500k for around $10 more. The premium you're paying for a P67 board over a H67 board is for the ability to overclock and more connections / ports. A GTX 460 for $220 is expensive. The Antec Truepower New 650w is a good power supply at a good price but it is unnecessary for your setup and your motherboard is not capable of SLI. Your configuration will barely exceed 200w during a gaming load. No need for an aftermarket heatsink either if you are not overclocking. If you are concerned about noise, you should probably look into a sound dampening case and a graphics card with an aftermarket heatsink as well. There is literally no difference between 1333MHz and 1600MHz RAM so there is no point in paying a premium for the latter, see here: http://techreport.com/articles.x/20377 You're missing a DVD drive. @SnaxyBeast Better to look into getting a Core i3 2100 and an H61 / H67 board for gaming purposes. You can see the performance difference between Phenom II, Core i3 2100, and various other processors here: http://www.anandtech.com/show/4083/the-sandy-bridge-review-intel-core-i7-2600k-i5-2500k-core-i3-2100-tested/20 The rest of your configuration is good. | ||
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Legatus Lanius
2135 Posts
antec tp-550 would be fine do you need a dvd drive? | ||
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ChOoA
United States8 Posts
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Speece
United States50 Posts
I am also looking to build my first computer and I think I'm going to use the setup you made for ChOoA but what is the advantage of having both a regular hard drive and a SSD together? Also does anyone have a recommendation for a good monitor? (22-24 inches) Thanks. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
On April 12 2011 10:57 Speece wrote: @Skyr You're the man Skyr! keep up the good work I am also looking to build my first computer and I think I'm going to use the setup you made for ChOoA but what is the purpose of having both a regular hard drive and a SSD together? Also does anyone have a recommendation for a good monitor? (22-24 inches) Thanks. The SSD is much faster at accessing and writing data in many circumstances, so you keep the operating system and commonly-used programs on that so they can be accessed faster. The regular hard drive is there just because SSDs are much more expensive and have a limited capacity, like just 60GB for the one quoted earlier. If you need to store large chunks of data that take a lot of space like videos, music, some games maybe, etc., your SSD doesn't have the capacity to hold all that, so you just dump that on the regular hard drive. Usually performance in reading and writing that kind of data is not that important. Regular hard drives are comparable to SSDs at those kinds of large files anyway. I like skyR's build too, so you're well off with that. For full disclosure, as long as you don't plan on very heavy upgrading like changing the GPU to something a couple tiers higher in performance and power consumption, the Earthwatts Green 380D will do great. It's going at a good price of $40 before $15 MIR. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371033 It really depends on what you mean by "good" for monitors, as their usage and qualities vary a lot. Good for what? Good compared to what? Will you be gaming on it? What kind of games? Do you have a particularly low tolerance for ghosting or latency? Doing photo/video editing? Watching movies (maybe with other people also watching)? Any particular preference for aspect ratio (16 : 9 or 16 : 10 pretty much)? How important are things like height adjustment, swivel, ability to rotate, etc.? Most importantly, how much money do you expect to spend? | ||
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Speece
United States50 Posts
On April 12 2011 11:15 Myrmidon wrote: The SSD is much faster at accessing and writing data in many circumstances, so you keep the operating system and commonly-used programs on that so they can be accessed faster. The regular hard drive is there just because SSDs are much more expensive and have a limited capacity, like just 60GB for the one quoted earlier. If you need to store large chunks of data that take a lot of space like videos, music, some games maybe, etc., your SSD doesn't have the capacity to hold all that, so you just dump that on the regular hard drive. Usually performance in reading and writing that kind of data is not that important. Regular hard drives are comparable to SSDs at those kinds of large files anyway. I like skyR's build too, so you're well off with that. For full disclosure, as long as you don't plan on very heavy upgrading like changing the GPU to something a couple tiers higher in performance and power consumption, the Earthwatts Green 380D will do great. It's going at a good price of $40 before $15 MIR. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371033 It really depends on what you mean by "good" for monitors, as their usage and qualities vary a lot. Good for what? Good compared to what? Will you be gaming on it? What kind of games? Do you have a particularly low tolerance for ghosting or latency? Doing photo/video editing? Watching movies (maybe with other people also watching)? Any particular preference for aspect ratio (16 : 9 or 16 : 10 pretty much)? How important are things like height adjustment, swivel, ability to rotate, etc.? Most importantly, how much money do you expect to spend? Yes it'll be for gaming, mostly starcraft. i'd like to be able to watch movies on it too. I don't really care how adjustable it is. I am willing to spend around $200. thanks, I don't really know much about monitors. | ||
Womwomwom
5930 Posts
Something like this isn't bad: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236112&cm_re=Asus_monitor_23"-_-24-236-112-_-Product | ||
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retwakm
United States5 Posts
My current part selection: cooler master storm scout case western digital caviar black 500gb asus ve2478h 24" 2ms 1080p led monitor msi twin frozr2 gtx 580 corsiar 750w modular power supply corsair vengeance 8gb 1600 asus sabertooth p67 revision 3 motherboard intel core i7 2600k quad core at 3.8ghz (Have watched several tutorials and with my cooler overclocking to about 4.3 - 4.6 looks to be a piece of cake even for a noob like me) corsair h50 liquid cpu cooler corsair hs1 headset razer blackwidow keyboard razer mamba mouse As I am a noob at building computers (first time) I would really appreciate any advice. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
Please provide the necessary information that was listed in the OP if you are asking for advice on a build. List specific models and preferably prices as well when you are talking about components. There is two different modular power supplies from Corsair, the AX and HX. I'm going to assume you are doing SLI sometime down the road. If you aren't than a 750w unit and your motherboard selection is totally wasteful. If you're spending so much on the other components, you may as well get a full tower case such as the Silverstone Raven 02 for $170. There is literally no performance difference between 1333MHz and 1600MHz RAM, see here: http://techreport.com/articles.x/20377 It would be stupid not to include a $300 third generation SSD such as the Intel 510, Crucial C400, OCZ Vertex 3, or Corsair Performance 3 when you are buying a core i7 2600k solely for gaming. Most games only utilize 2 cores so there is very little point in spending an extra $100 on a core i7 2600k over a core i5 2500k. | ||
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Miwyfe
England101 Posts
[H] My PC is broken. It cut out whilst simply browsing tl.net. I switched it back on and it cut out again after 10 mins or so. Then 5 mins, then wouldnt turn on. I came back to it after a few days and it did work for 1 session before starting the same symptoms again. After, I took it to a retired local with some (limited) knowledge who tested the power supply and reckoned it was ok after apparently testing it with apparatus of some kind. He then plugged it back in and the pc started working, believing the motherboard connection with the power supply was simply a bit dodgy/dusty or something. So I gave him some gifts and went on my merry way! However, 3 days later it was back to its old tricks. I thought I would ask here for a diagnosis. (I understand that without inspection it could be impossible to help me) System specs [spoiler]mobo: nForce 650i (C55) chip: Core 2 quad Q6600 2.4ghz 8mb mem: 4gb ddr2 667mhz (4x1gb samsung) gfx: 8600gt 256mb psu: 550w unspecified sound: soundblaster x-fi extreme os: xp pro Speakers? 5.1 and pretty big (not sure if this is necessary to work out power as they have their own plug)[/spoiler] From reading advice given to others here I think the corsair cx430 is fine for me if it is likely that a new psu is probably needed. Im in the uk, play.com has this psu for £37. I would buy the xfx core 450 but I cant find a good site to buy from. overclockers is the only one but its out of stock anyway. But if you guys are happy with the cx430 then I am aswell, Im very inexperienced. Also, I originally got hold of this pc thinking (perhaps very naively) I could just chuck a new graphics card in one day and that would keep me going for ages more (literally 8 years total with 1 graphcs card upgrade at some point). I remember the 8800gt, and thinking that I would definately get that one at some point, maybe when it drops in price. However, it seems that with tech, it holds its price and then sells out and gets replaced by something for exactly the same price but better performance. Buying a 8800gt now seems silly but Im not sure why really. If I were to hypothetically chuck a gtx 460 1gb (which seems similar to what the 8800gt was in price to performance at the time) into my setup would that be just a total waste of money. I guess I'd need windows 7 for one thing but wouldn't that be awfully time consuming and a big hassle to switch over. Easier to just start from scratch than change OS? So yeah several questions there. Feel free to chip in, Thanks. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
The 8800GT's launch MSRP was ~$200 and it's currently at ~$100 now. So prices on graphics cards do tend to drop. You would want Windows 7 if you are upgrading to a GTX 460 1GB since I'm assuming you're using the 32bit version of Windows XP which can only utilize a maximum of 4GB of memory. So you would only have 3GB of RAM left if you were to upgrade to a graphics card with 1GB of memory. You don't have to upgrade to a GTX 460 either, you could get a Radeon 6850, GTX 460 768mb, or a even lower tier graphic card depending on what resolution you play at. And no upgrading your graphics card would not be a waste of money, the Q6600 is still a very capable processor. The CX430 is perfectly capable of powering your configuration with a GTX 460 or equivalent graphics card. As for your problem, do you mean cut out as in randomly powers off or the computer freezes (and you have to do a hard boot)? If it randomly power offs than it most likely is a power supply issue or an overheating issue. Your graphics card fan may have died and it is overheating so best to check the temperature with monitoring software such as MSI Afterburner ( http://event.msi.com/vga/afterburner/overview.htm ). It wouldn't hurt to check CPU temps either so download Real Temp ( http://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/ ). If any of these two components is nearing 100C on idle than you have a problem... You would also need a multimeter to get voltage readings from your power supply to ensure that it is not the culprit. | ||
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SnaxyBeast
2 Posts
On April 12 2011 09:12 skyR wrote: @ChOoA Yes it is good but my configuration is better optimized for your needs and even includes an SSD. P67 board is not necessary for a core i5 2500 as it has a locked multiplier which means you will be unable to overclock very far. If you want to overclock, you would need to get a core i5 2500k for around $10 more. The premium you're paying for a P67 board over a H67 board is for the ability to overclock and more connections / ports. A GTX 460 for $220 is expensive. The Antec Truepower New 650w is a good power supply at a good price but it is unnecessary for your setup and your motherboard is not capable of SLI. Your configuration will barely exceed 200w during a gaming load. No need for an aftermarket heatsink either if you are not overclocking. If you are concerned about noise, you should probably look into a sound dampening case and a graphics card with an aftermarket heatsink as well. There is literally no difference between 1333MHz and 1600MHz RAM so there is no point in paying a premium for the latter, see here: http://techreport.com/articles.x/20377 You're missing a DVD drive. @SnaxyBeast Better to look into getting a Core i3 2100 and an H61 / H67 board for gaming purposes. You can see the performance difference between Phenom II, Core i3 2100, and various other processors here: http://www.anandtech.com/show/4083/the-sandy-bridge-review-intel-core-i7-2600k-i5-2500k-core-i3-2100-tested/20 The rest of your configuration is good. Ok Thanks alot  | ||
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Ingenol
United States1328 Posts
This machine will be for moderate gaming and a lot of work. I will be running 3 monitors: 2560x1600 and two 1600x900 (rotated), hence why the 6950 for the extra VRAM. I will be sure to get an active displayport adapter. I know the PSU is total overkill, but can anyone recommend me one that's cheaper and still fully modular? I really like that every cable is modular on this one, and it's only $110 after instant and mail-in rebates. A lot of the modular ones aren't fully modular I've noticed. Also, I think an SSD would be great, but one of my main usages would be for storing my poker database, which means tons of frequent, small writes. I've read this can really compromise the health and longevity of an SSD--are my fears unbased? It's not worth it for me right now to just use it for OS and other apps. Case: Rosewill Blackhawk HD: Spinpoint F3 GPU: HD 6950 PSU: XFX Black Edition RAM: Ripjaws 2x4GB Mobo: AsRock P67 Pro3 CPU: Intel 2500K Optical Drive: Samsung CPU Cooler: Hyper 212+ Thanks! | ||
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Legatus Lanius
2135 Posts
cant think of that many cheap fully modular power supplies, but i remember silverstone having some fully modular ones at decent watts | ||
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Ingenol
United States1328 Posts
On April 12 2011 22:33 Legatus Lanius wrote: the xfx black edition is not fully modular. i have the 850 watt edition and its got some annoying hardwired cables such as both an 8pin and a 4+4pin mobo connector. i think the tp series from antec is the same, you could get the tp-550 for much cheaper and pretty s0lid perf0rmance cant think of that many cheap fully modular power supplies, but i remember silverstone having some fully modular ones at decent watts Oh, wow, looks like you're right. I guess I need some PSU recommendations! I'll look at the Antec TP, any other suggestions anyone? | ||
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