Men's Fashion Thread - Page 78

- I hate belts. they're not good-looking, they are not comfortable, and they're unnecessary. I have been insisting on pants that hit me just below the belly button, and when pants come up this high I think they stay up fine on me with a properly taken-in waist. so I'm going to start having the belt loops removed from some of my pants, and being sure to have the waist fit just right (alterations to 1/4'' if necessary). if this does not work and my pants are falling down, I will have to think more seriously about bracers. I have heard that bracers are the absolute best way to keep pants up (it makes sense—ensure that your pant waist is always at precisely the same height) and I am willing to take the plunge for suit pants. but I wear an odd jacket and trousers almost every day, and in this more casual dress often leave the jacket open...the bracers would show, and I'm not sure I'm ready to pull off the fuddy-duddiness of bracers with regular everyday clothes (to work, out afterwards, etc.)
- I got some custom shirts at Ascot Chang. white and blue only. I think the tailor I've since found (more on that below) can make equal quality shirts for much cheaper, so I may go to him for future orders. but I'm happy with the Ascot Chang shirts. one thing I learned is that it is a huge mistake to try to cheap out on fabrics. I enjoy the shirts that I paid for in a finer quality fabric immensely more. they have more interesting texture (look nicer) and are much more comfortable. if you're laying out for measurements, made-to-order, etc...it doesn't make any sense at all to avoid dropping an extra $20-$50 for nicer fabric.
- I have wanted a pair of whole cuts for a long time and pulled trigger on these http://www.ctshirts.co.uk/men's-shoes/calf-leather-shoes/Brown-Ashland-limited-edition-calf-whole-cut-shoes?q=gbpdefault||MC077BRN||||||||||||| after seeing them on eBay for cheap (they're on sale at Charles T right now, so check em out). whole cuts are extremely simple but good-looking and that is how I am trying to dress for now.
- a lot of people whose business is clothes actually have no idea what they're doing (or don't care enough to put their knowledge to work). I cheaped out on a for-now suit at SuitSupply (mistake—I should have taken the time to go eBay+alterations, if I wanted to keep cost low) and the alterations tailors there tried to give me a jacket that had been taken in about an inch too much at the waist (there was pull, and it was disproportionally fitted, and too aggressive for me) and I had to really insist that it was not right and needed to be redone. shitty tailors will try to convince you that their bad work looks good to avoid having to redo it. I am trying to stick to my guns so that, if I decide I don't like something, it's through wear and I have therefore learned something new.
- $500 suit with $6,000 watch: moron; $6,000 suit with $500 watch: guy who can't yet afford a nice watch
- blue shirts are infinitely easier to match than white. white shirts are too formal to wear with a chunky winter fabric and IMO will not look as good as blue with every color but navy (with which blue pairs fine). I am only buying blue shirts for a while.
- thoughts on monograms: right now I like monograms enough to say "yes" if they're included and pay extra for them on something important. I think the function of a monogram should be to help me identify my things easily and to signal to a select crowd. monograms that are ever visible when clothes are worn in the usual course are obnoxious and attention-seeking and I wouldn't dare, especially while I'm still a noob at clothes and life.
- my Strong Eye Leather briefcase arrived. I posted pics here: http://www.teamliquid.net/blogs/viewblog.php?topic_id=371682&currentpage=3#52 I can't recommend this guy enough—everything's customizable, his customer service is fantastic, and his bags are very inexpensive for their quality
- a shoe horn really improved my life
- solids are never boring if they're in nice fabrics, because of texture
- I have found what seems to be a really good (relatively cheap, skilled, personable, and with good taste) tailor in NYC and the first thing I ordered is a couple jackets. I have a gray flannel jacket that I like ok, so I went with navy and brown (navy, grey, and brown are the first 3 colors I am buying in pretty much everything). first fitting for the navy was last week. pic and more thoughts here: http://thereisnogrey.com/post/37357888422/first-fitting-first-bespoke-jacket-the-tailor-is . as usual, I feel stupid for ever spending money on anything off-the-rack. at the right tailor, for a price hike of ~50% you can get a quality increase (fit, fabric) of 500%. that pic shows some pull in the right arm but I think (hope—needs to be addressed if not) that's only because I'd just thrown on the jacket and there was an unusual catch against my shirt or something. I went with some marbled/tortoise-like brown buttons and I hope they're not at all loud. when this tailor gets his summer fabrics I will go for 1 linen and 1 other summer-weight fabric (tropical wool?). I have only been fucking with wool and wool blends.
- I haven't touched casual clothes at all, aside from new denim (http://shop.freemanssportingclub.com/—waist is high enough for me, which is rare in pants these days and even rarer in denim). I am just trying to get the fairly formal odd jacket and trousers down right now. I feel kind of silly wearing jeans and an old t-shirt whenever I'm not coming from or going to the office, but I can't afford to remedy that right now. I need to figure out how I can make a jacket look casual enough to wear out to the average bar (no structure, surely; patch pockets; no lining? do you know a non-linen fabric that will never look stiff? and is not too warm for crowded rooms?)
- a nice long coat can go a looooooong way to making a guy look taller and more put together. Yoox has some very nice LBM ones at surprisingly low prices. there is also a guy on eBay selling a bunch of Isaia (just search Isaia) topcoats at nice prices.
- no umbrella yet, but when I do it will be a Fox TEL2 http://www.foxumbrellas.net/acatalog/Books.html (not as elegant or proper as a regular-length umbrella, but I would rather have the option to put it in a bag)
- silk knit ties still get weirdly many comments. no idea why everyone is fascinated with this simple clothing item
- it seems like most people think that if a man is in a jacket and tie he is wearing "a suit". odd jacket + trousers is not a suit
- this http://www.sierratradingpost.com/johnstons-of-elgin-cashmere-scarf-for-men-and-women~p~86213/?filterString=s~cashmere-scarf/&colorFamily=02 is a passable and cheap cashmere scarf. good gift.
- IMO trying to dress well is a fun hobby because something that's possible to do and enjoy even when insanely busy (hey, everyone needs to get dressed).
- it's a good thing that this city is rife with dry cleaners, because most are amazingly incompetent. rejected dry cleaners here have installed iron-on stickers on my clothes, used 4 safety pins to attach 1 thing to a hanger, ironed collars such that a half inch of the inside of the collar was above the fold (facing out), and (this one really gets me) pressed pants FLAT so that the crease runs down the side of the pant. the dry cleaner I am going to now is pretty good. shirts emerge with the usual 2 diagonal creases on the collar that are associated with being flattened on a hanger (and should always be ironed out IMO), but the creases aren't very severe